Winter Weather Begins This Week

[sclitheroe]

Originally Posted by Pinner

While were at it, electronic cars should not be running when you give someone a boost, jumps in voltage or a dead short could fry YOUR computer or lots of other stuff.

No. The voltage of the two cars becomes the same when you connect them. There are no jumps in voltage.

If you short out two vehicles while boosting, you do run the risk of alternator damage, but short term you should be much more concerned about burns, fire, or exploding batteries.

If boosting a vehicle was dangerous for your electronics, turning the engine on and off daily would be positively deadly.

[amorak]

Originally Posted by 4X4

You're an ex bus driver that doesn't know how to navigate a stop sign, and you're telling other people how to drive. Thanks, clown.

Dear god this was funny.

[Pinner]

Originally Posted by sclitheroe

No. The voltage of the two cars becomes the same when you connect them. There are no jumps in voltage.

When the dead car starts that extra alternator suddenly adding an extra 13-15 volts is what fries stuff out.

Make sense ?

[burn_this_city]

Originally Posted by Pinner

When the dead car starts that extra alternator suddenly adding an extra 13-15 volts is what fries stuff out.

Make sense ?

No. You can buy vehicles with a second alternator as an option. I doubt they'd sell it as a $400 option if it required a completely different electrical system.

[Barnes]

Originally Posted by Pinner

When the dead car starts that extra alternator suddenly adding an extra 13-15 volts is what fries stuff out.

Make sense ?

Voltage is not added in a parallel circuit so no, it doesn't make sense.

In a parallel circuit voltage stays the same, resistance of the dead car stays the same so current stays the same.

I=V/R

[photon]

Adding a second voltage supply of equal voltage in parallel in a circuit does not increase the voltage.

[Jimmy Stang]

nm

[Pinner]

Originally Posted by Pinner

I understand that, but some electronics want 12 volts, not 11 or 13, 12.

And bad batteries won't hold any charge, nothing. Like a frozen one.


While were at it, electronic cars should not be running when you give someone a boost, jumps in voltage or a dead short could fry YOUR computer or lots of other stuff. Tow trucks have separate isolated batteries for boosting because of this.

The first part I'm saying that an electronic engine may not run without a battery because the voltage is not right. Power coming from the alternator normally is ? stabilized by the battery or made a constant 12.5 volts or whatever. With the frozen dead battery the voltage could be all over the place 15-13.5 12.3 10 ?? I said the cars electronics might not work proper because of it.


Then I'm talking about voltage spikes, dead shorting and load dumping on a cars alternator and electronics while boosting. I'm clearly saying it's a bad idea to have your good engine running while connecting, disconnecting and starting the dead car.

What it costs these days to fix cars, I thought some CP'ers might appreciate my opinion, especially the poster who's situation I was directly talking about.

Comparing a sudden voltage spike when boosting, to running multiple alternators in parallel (who does that) just for the purpose of disagreeing with me to get under my skin is pretty lame. You too Jimmy Lame.

[Jimmy Stang]

Originally Posted by Pinner

Comparing a sudden voltage spike when boosting, to running multiple alternators in parallel (who does that) just for the purpose of disagreeing with me to get under my skin is pretty lame. You too Jimmy Lame.

But... but... I haven't said anything in ages. And I didn't even bring up the 4-way stop thing this time.

[Barnes]

I will agree with you about the hill driving but you're seriously arguing some pretty basic laws of physics. They're not up for debate. They're taught to kids.

[Pinner]

Originally Posted by Barnes

I will agree with you about the hill driving but you're seriously arguing some pretty basic laws of physics. They're not up for debate. They're taught to kids.

Prove it smart mouth, instead of focusing your energy on poking your finger in my eye, help the guy asking for help smart ass.

I posted my best advice to a guy who admittedly claimed no knowledge about cars. You and others came into this thread to be pricks, plain and simple, your posts sole purpose's was to be pricks, not help anyone, just to be pricks!

Prove I'm wrong, what basic laws of physics am I arguing ?

[3 Justin 3]

Originally Posted by Pinner

Prove it smart mouth, instead of focusing your energy on poking your finger in my eye, help the guy asking for help smart ass.

I posted my best advice to a guy who admittedly claimed no knowledge about cars. You and others came into this thread to be pricks, plain and simple, your posts sole purpose's was to be pricks, not help anyone, just to be pricks!

Prove I'm wrong, what basic laws of physics am I arguing ?

Go to a highschool and sit in on a physics class. I don't mean to be an ass, but it is basic physics.

Like he mentioned, I=V/R which is a law.

[zamler]

Just to clear up a few things. Running a car with no battery, or a faulty battery is a bad idea. The battery acts as a giant capacitor, without it you are feeding half wave AC into the system. The various electronics are protected and filtered as well, but that does not mean they can't be damaged. As for what voltages a car will function under, it's surprising how low the voltage has to go before the car won't run at all. I've seen cars run (although poorly) with about 8 volts. 18 volts is the upper end the car can tolerate without possible damage. Proper regulation is 13.8-14.2 Volts.

As for boosting a car with the engine running, it has risks. It can put maximum load on the alternator, and initially connecting the jumper cables can put voltage spikes into the system, which is very hard on electronics. The best way to boost a car is to connect with both cars not running, wait a few minutes, pull the cables, start the car, then reconnect the cables. This will put some charge into the dead battery, so when you connect things with the engine running, the load will not be so severe.

Another thing to remember is, a block heater will make a huge difference in getting a car started. Even with a 100% charged battery, in very cold weather the engine oil is getting close to a solid state, which means turning the engine over will put a huge strain on the battery. 100% synthetic oil is worth every cent in bitter cold weather, it flows better in extreme conditions.

[zamler]

Originally Posted by Pinner

The first part I'm saying that an electronic engine may not run without a battery because the voltage is not right.

I've never seen a car that won't run without a battery. Even in the days of voltage regulators that were mechanical devices using a large relay and resistors, the engine would still run fine with no battery. Running it long term like that would burn out the regulator due to severe arching in the relay. But with modern regulators, the car will run all day and night with no battery, although as I stated it's not recommended, there is potential for damages to sensitive electronics.

[Cheerio]

I think my right signal light is burnt out, on about Monday when I flicked the signal to turn right it flicked really fast, so today I got out and looked at it and sure enough it wasn't blinking. How do I go about replacing it? (just the front one, the rear one works just fine). Also my tires feel really low on air, is it just because of the cold causing the air to compress? should i fill them up more?

[zamler]

You replace it by putting a new bulb where the old one is. Seriously, how can we answer your question without knowing what car you drive?

And get a tire pressure gauge, ideally you should check the air pressure every time you fill up with fuel. And air obviously does shrink when cold so tires can become under inflated during cold weather.

[Barnes]

Originally Posted by Pinner

Prove it smart mouth, instead of focusing your energy on poking your finger in my eye, help the guy asking for help smart ass.

I posted my best advice to a guy who admittedly claimed no knowledge about cars. You and others came into this thread to be pricks, plain and simple, your posts sole purpose's was to be pricks, not help anyone, just to be pricks!

Prove I'm wrong, what basic laws of physics am I arguing ?

When hooking up booster cables between two cars, you are adding the second battery to a PARALLEL circuit. Positive to positive, negative to chassis (which is the same as negative to negative because cars use a negative ground to the chassis from the battery completing the circuit)

When two or more battery's of the same voltage in a parallel circuit the same voltage is present in each branch.

I suppose there could exist the opportunity for load dumping if a battery somehow gets disconnected from the alternator. The massive increase in current would spike the voltage but probably not that big because the resistivity of the dead battery would be low.

V=I*R

I would be much more afraid of a dead short while driving normally but thankfully, most modern alternators can deal with it and semi-conductors are protected.

I have no idea how anyone would create a dead short in the system except if they laid a wrench across the battery touching both posts.

Can't really for see either situations where this would happen if you follow basic boosting instructions.

[Cheerio]

Originally Posted by zamler

You replace it by putting a new bulb where the old one is. Seriously, how can we answer your question without knowing what car you drive?

And get a tire pressure gauge, ideally you should check the air pressure every time you fill up with fuel. And air obviously does shrink when cold so tires can become under inflated during cold weather.

It's a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder if that helps at all?

[Barnes]

Originally Posted by Cheerio

I think my right signal light is burnt out, on about Monday when I flicked the signal to turn right it flicked really fast, so today I got out and looked at it and sure enough it wasn't blinking. How do I go about replacing it? (just the front one, the rear one works just fine). Also my tires feel really low on air, is it just because of the cold causing the air to compress? should i fill them up more?

Yes, air shrinks when it's cold. If you inflate to the proper pressure when it's cold, when it warms up, your tires become over inflated.

I have nitrogen in my tires which does not expand and contract like gas station air.

[zamler]

Originally Posted by Cheerio

It's a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder if that helps at all?

I think on your vehicle, you remove one phillips screw and the cover will lever out (towards the center?). Sorry not 100% sure, maybe someone with a similar car can chime in.

Originally Posted by Barnes

I have nitrogen in my tires which does not expand and contract like gas station air.

LOL. Sorry, but can't help but laugh. The atmosphere is 80% nitrogen, so at best because your tires have 100% nitrogen, you will have a 20% improvement. Plus all gasses change their volume with temperature, just to varying amounts. Nitrogen in tires is a waste of money. If you can get it for free, okay then you might see a small improvements. But it's fairly close to snake oil.