[HELP] Hose bibb threads stripped on outdoor faucet.
So, never thought much about this faucet before - it always sprayed water all over the place when the faucet got turned off. I attributed that to the little anti-siphon attachment that was on it. My wife finally got at me to fix it, and I noticed that the threads on the hose bibb were almost completely stripped. I am now wondering what my options are for replacing this. I have done a cursary look, but I am hoping that there is a way of fixing it so that I don't have to mess around with the stucco. I noticed the hose bibb appears to be threaded to the piece that joins with the tubing (PolyB, unfortunately). While I didn't go crazy trying to loosen the hose bibb from that, it was quite securely attached.
Below are some photos. The second photo is with the faucet pulled out as far as it would go without yanking really hard at it.
From the picture it looks like you could cut that whole thing off and crimp a new one on. Rent a crimper for an hour or two, turn off the water. Cut that fixture off, put a copper ring on the pex pipe, add new hose bib and crimp it. Voila! Shouldn't take more than a 1/2 hour.
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I might try using teflon tape on the stripped threads and attacth a coupling. If you can get a good seal between the coupling and the stripped threads you could just leave it on indefinately.
Rent a PEX cutter and crimper (or borrow one if you know someone who might have ever dealt with plumbing), cut the old line, get a new tap and a new ring and crimp it on.
Take these pics to the plumbing department at Rona or Home Depot and one of the experts can talk you through it showing you the tools and parts you need. It's not much more than a 5 minute job.
Teflon tape IS NOT going to work if you are trying to attach a hose swivel to the Hose threads. The swivel is designed to pull tight against an o-ring and as soon as you put teflon tape on it you won't get that tight seal against the O-ring.
Looks like it's just an ordinary boiler drain (faucet) that screws into a 3/4" FPT. If you can unscrew it off the flange and 3/4" thread then just replace the faucet but if you cant you may have to do what Slava suggested
Should mention there are different sizes of pipe too so may want to take the whole unit in to match the correct size up
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Thanks everybody. I was hoping to avoid having to patch up or chip away at the stucco if I went and crimped on a new flange (by the way, that's polyb and not pex -yay for me, and no I didn't know about the class action until long after I even discovered my house was plumbed with polyb).
I will see if I can remove the faucet from the flange, if I can locate a pipe wrench or something to grip onto the flange part and take the hose bibb to HD or Rona. Unless there is a better plumbing supply place that might haver a wider selection for these kinds of things.
You should be able to easily remove that faucet from the flange, and they should have replacements at any home centre. Canadian tire even stocks these. The line is crimped onto the flange, not the faucet. Pex is easy to work with but why bother if you can thread on a new faucet.
Just some closure, because it's annoying when somebody posts a problem and then doesn't update whether they've solved it.
Located a pex-style hose bibb at HD, some crimp rings, a pex->polyb adapter, rented a 1/2" crimper and eventually got the flange off. Here is the finished, not so pretty result. It may be the Frankenstein of plumbing, but it works and doesn't leak.
The Following User Says Thank You to Wormius For This Useful Post:
Yeah. I had thought the flange itself was part of the fitting, but after after I took a pipe wrench and loosened it, the flange just came off by itself, so I had to cut the old hose bibb off entirely from the pipe.
... also the crimper's jaws just barely open a hair wide enough, if you really pry them apart, to clear the pipe. I was almost despondant after I made the last crimp and couldn't get the crimper off. It was like I had just painted myself into a corner.
The length of PolyB sticking out was a pain too, literally, the back of my hand is badly scratched up from the stucco. I don't remembe the crimper being this hard to use before. Maybe the one I rented from Rona has longer handles or something, but every crimp was a workout, and it wasn't just two hands, it was two hands a knee, pressing as hard as possible. Anyway, the moral might be to rent from Rona next time.
Good point. I tried to leave it as I found it originally. Now, my understanding about the back flow preventer was in case you were connecting the hose to one of those fertilizer or weed killer spraying attachments and to prevent contaminating your water supply.
There was an anti-siphon attachment on the faucet previously (which probably had something to do with the stripped threads). Looked almost exactly like this.
Otherwise we always winterize the outdoor water supplies by shutting of the water to them and letting them drain out.
Yeah. I had thought the flange itself was part of the fitting, but after after I took a pipe wrench and loosened it, the flange just came off by itself, so I had to cut the old hose bibb off entirely from the pipe.
... also the crimper's jaws just barely open a hair wide enough, if you really pry them apart, to clear the pipe. I was almost despondant after I made the last crimp and couldn't get the crimper off. It was like I had just painted myself into a corner.
The length of PolyB sticking out was a pain too, literally, the back of my hand is badly scratched up from the stucco. I don't remembe the crimper being this hard to use before. Maybe the one I rented from Rona has longer handles or something, but every crimp was a workout, and it wasn't just two hands, it was two hands a knee, pressing as hard as possible. Anyway, the moral might be to rent from Rona next time.
I bought the tool from Can Tire, it is considerably shorter than the pro version, and is harder to crimp with, but it works fine for the amount I use it. It's possible whoever had it before you adjusted it too tight, next time make sure you have the crimp gauge and try it on a scrap piece first.
I bought the tool from Can Tire, it is considerably shorter than the pro version, and is harder to crimp with, but it works fine for the amount I use it. It's possible whoever had it before you adjusted it too tight, next time make sure you have the crimp gauge and try it on a scrap piece first.
Thanks. I did do a few test crimps to make sure I still remembered how to operate it. I wasn't aware there was an adjustment for it though. There wasn't anything really obvious on this model, and I just assumed it was normal.
[HELP] Hose bibb threads stripped on outdoor faucet.
