First-time New Car Buyer...what do I negotiate?

[simmer2]

As the title says, I am leasing a new 2012 Mazda 3 Sport and at this point have not negotiated anything with them yet. I was wondering for folks with experience negotiating with a new vehicle, what areas should I focus on asking for?

EXAMPLES:

• Do I focus on getting add-ons included?
• Reduction in price? If so, what will they typically do?
• How much room do Car Dealerships typically have to work with?
• Anyone have experience with Mazda North Hill?

I have told them I am looking at one other vehicle and deciding between this one and the other one (Subaru WRX). Keep in mind, these vehicles are also new and don't have many in stock and I don't want to wait too long.

Appreciate any feedback.

[burn_this_city]

To negotiate effectively you need to forget the last line you wrote. If you aren't prepared to walk away and play the waiting game, you won't get very many concessions. These aren't extremely rare vehicles, so if you can afford to wait a bit you'll get a better deal.

[MillerTime GFG]

I told them that this car was at the very edge of my budget and I still needed to buy winter tires and asked if they would throw those in....they did. Try for that.

[Bill Bumface]

Get a Car Cost Canada report and find out how much room they have.

[Wormius]

We bought a slightly used demo model of a Subaru and they added in pretty much every extra goody that they had available for that model. Nothing too spectacular though. I mean, it would have cost us maybe $1000 - $1500 or so to buy and install anyway.

Just be prepared to go to a lot of dealers and see what others will offer you, even makes and models that you're not necessarily interested in. Play them against each other until you can tell that they aren't able to concede anymore.

[Walks44]

A couple of things I learned taking some negotiating training, is try to make the salesperson feel like he won, do this by having a set price in mind that you want to pay, i.e: If the price is $25k and you dont want to pay more than $23k then start your offer at $21k, so he feels that he got you up to the price you're comfurtable paying.

Never be satisfied with the deal, even when you go to pick up the keys, seem hesitent and almost willing to back out, you would be surprised what they'll include if you might back out at the last minute.

If your not 100% sure in making a decision, use a delay tactic, I might have to check with so-and-so first,or I really shouldnt makes this decision without consulting my wife,dad or mom, or bank. They might just concede or offer a further reduction to make that sale.

Try and get the best deal for yourself, whatever they offer they can do better!

[CaptainCrunch]

If your negotiating with Pylon, prepare for him to hulk up and drop a leg on you.

[afc wimbledon]

My ex wife phoned up a second car dealer from the office of the first one on his desk phone and asked if they could beat his price, never seen a salesman so freaked out, women was a bitch but boy could she make a deal.

So I guess basically be a complete arsehole, treat them like dirt.

[Byrns]

Get a carcostcanada report, then offer the dealer 2.5-3 over invoice. I did everything over email when I bought my RAV4, and made sure it was the final on the road price before driving to the dealership.

[Flashpoint]

You are the one in charge. Remember that. It's a piece of cake for you to stand up and walk out at any point. The automotive market is soft right now (at least where I live), so the buyer holds all the cards.

I recently leased a new Subaru for my wife. We went to a couple dealerships, did a couple of test drives. When we found a car we both liked, I let the salesman give me his pitch (obviously after letting him know I had been to other dealerships that day). I then told him the following.

• I want this car (with the premium package heated seats, sunroof, you know...wifey stuff).
• I want this much for my trade in (basically the same as the blue book on a 10 year old car).
• I want this many miles per year.
• I want a lease of this length.
• I will pay you this much per month.
• I won't pay you a dollar more - closing costs, transfer fees or this that or the other.

The bottom line was - you'll trade me your brand new car for my old car, and I'll pay you this much for it. You can take it, or leave it. He took it.

Wife loves the new car. I love the monthly payment. In a year and a half I'll probably do it again, and I'll likely go back to the same guy.

All you have to do is remember you are the one holding all the cards, and the salesman wants your business.

[lazy_programmer]

Just to clarify, is that 2.5-3% of invoice or $250-$300 or something else?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by Byrns

Get a carcostcanada report, then offer the dealer 2.5-3 over invoice. I did everything over email when I bought my RAV4, and made sure it was the final on the road price before driving to the dealership.

[Byrns]

Originally Posted by lazy_programmer

Just to clarify, is that 2.5-3% of invoice or $250-$300 or something else?

Thanks.

2.5-3% over the invoice price listed on the carcost report. Don't forget to subtract any rebates off of the invoice price first.

[MacDaddy77]

Originally Posted by lazy_programmer

just to clarify, is that 2.5-3% of invoice or $250-$300 or something else?

Thanks.

2.5%

[Table 5]

In terms of used cars, anyone know how much markup or value a dealership places on things like CPO certification, scheduled maintenance etc?

I'm currently looking at getting the wife a car, and if we go the CPO direction, I'm trying to see if getting them to cover some of these things (ie, get them to include scheduled maintenance for 2 years, or upping the level of warranty), instead of a price decrease, would be a better strategy to go in with.

[ericschand]

Go outside of Calgary, and see what they offer. When I say outside, I mean Lethbridge, Red Deer, Edmonton. I got an good no-haggle experience and saved $3k over Calgary "lowest we can possibly offer" on a brand new car by leaving the city 2 weeks ago. They even waived the "admin fee" which I was told in Calgary was not possible, everyone has to pay it.

I didn't think I would ever buy another new car until that happened.

I did the same way back when, in the 90's. Lived in Regina, phoned Moose Jaw, the guy beat the price by $1,500 and gave me more options, plus the new year model (instead of the clearout previous year model). Alas, that's the car that's being replaced after 15.5 years. (Anyone want an original owner 1996 Camry? )

Both times the general conversation was, "Look, I know I have to get you here. What's it going to take? If I do this price, with these options, will you come out here?" In Sask, he drove out to pick me up on his coin.

Also, check out sales in Ontario or Vancouver. See how close to those you can get.

If you don't want to phone, use email.

ers

[mrgreen]

I've never paid an admin fee in Calgary.

[Table 5]

Is the admin fee the same as the documentation fee? Or the AMVIC fee?

[ken0042]

When shopping for my car I told 3 dealers to give me their best price; and let them know that they were in competition with 2 other dealers. One place gave me some vague numbers and suggested that I spend an hour with the sales manager; so I told him that was his job.

I bought my vehicle in Okotoks for more than $1000 less than anybody else; and the price I paid ended up being just over the 3% over the invoice as Hulkrogan suggested. (A friend got me the invoice after the fact.)

I also made sure I knew exactly what options I wanted; what credits I qualified for, and I asked for a bottom line price. There ended being some fees listed; but I paid exactly what I quoted.

Another thing- DO NOT complete the satisfaction survey right away. A glowing survey is worth more to the dealer than a few dollars on your sale; so they will do all sorts of things after the sale just to get your positive feedback.

[troutman]

I love when they have to leave the room to "talk to the manager".

[SeeBass]

Undercoating don't forget undercoating.

Oh hell I dont know what I'm talking about