08-05-2007, 09:06 PM
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#1
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Franchise Player
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What tools are in your workshop?
I've recently moved into my first home and would like to start developing the unfinished basement. It shouldn't be too difficult of a task, as 3 of the 4 walls are already framed, insulated with vapor barrier. Aside from the electrical part, I figure it shouldn't be too hard to do the drywall, ceiling, and flooring. The problem is that I have virtually no experience when it comes to home reno's, etc. -- I've built a few things and have put together furniture, but otherwise am starting from scratch
Anyways, I figure I can't get started unless I have some tools to work with, so I'm wondering what are the essential tools I need for someone just starting out. I have the basics (hammer, screwdrivers, wrenches) as well as a few small tools (cordless drill, jigsaw, dremel/rotary tool)... what else would you recommend? Table saw? Circular saw? Sander? workbench?
Also, any tips on developing basements (I think my first step will be to get one of those books from Home Depot that basically guides you from start to finish -- although any online resources or other recommendations are appreciated  )
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08-05-2007, 09:15 PM
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#2
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Stern Nation
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you need a level and a square, you'll be thankful that you had them when all is done and those door jams slide in like a dream. square and true from the get-go saves time in the end. i highly recommend you make friends with someone with know-how.
Last edited by ricoFlame; 08-05-2007 at 09:26 PM.
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08-05-2007, 09:15 PM
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#3
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Supporting Urban Sprawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvp2003
Also, any tips on developing basements (I think my first step will be to get one of those books from Home Depot that basically guides you from start to finish -- although any online resources or other recommendations are appreciated  )
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Lots of random tips from finishing 2 basements and helping on another set
Make sure you get the appropriate permits and inspections OR at the very least build it to code. People might say permits are not worth the time, but it really is no hassle at all compared to ripping the walls out to prove you did it properly the first time. You can buy a copy of the building/electrical code at home depot/rona. Buy a 50lb box of nails, the cost makes it more than worth it over buying little plastic boxes with 100 nails in it and you will have a huge number left over . For finishing, buy (or rent/borrow) a miter saw and a brad nailer (mini nail gun w/ compressor for finishing nails). I would get a set of sawhorses, just buy the brakets and make yourself. Dont get too fancy. As for a saw, a circular will do the trick, but if you are going to invest in a miter saw it will also do most of the cutting of 2x4's etc.
A drill is needed for Drywall, cordless is nice but fiddling and waiting for batteries to charge can be a pain. When you get your drywall mud, make sure it had a high glue ratio, alot of the stuff they sellat Rona will say multipurpose, but if there isnt enough glue in it, it will be near useless for papering your joints. Use the 'professional' paper tape, dont use the mesh stuff since you will pay far more and have to deal with more problems if your joints are not aligned. Make sure your draywall joins are all on the stud ie each edge of the drywall is screwed into a 2x4, or else you will not have flat walls.
__________________
"Wake up, Luigi! The only time plumbers sleep on the job is when we're working by the hour."
Last edited by Rathji; 08-05-2007 at 09:34 PM.
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08-05-2007, 09:22 PM
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#4
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Appealing my suspension
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Just outside Enemy Lines
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I have a compound mitre saw and a skill saw, a jig saw, and a scroll saw but still find that I need a table saw as it is better for finishing stuff. A good drill is invaluable too don't cheap out on that, get a powerfull cordless or if you want to save a few bucks get a more powerful corded drill over a smaller cordless one. Also an air compressor kit and the nailers that go with it are damn handy too, especially if you want to do finishing stuff like casing and baseboard. You might be able to get a compressor with a finish nailer and than just rent a framing nailer for a day or two. For the electrical get yourself a set of rubber handled screw drivers.
I was a bit intimidated by the electrical myself, but it's actually not that hard to do it. Just be extra careful and you should be fine. I also got that $30 book from home depot and hey it's not bad, I've spent $30 on a lot worse and useless things than it.
__________________
"Some guys like old balls"
Patriots QB Tom Brady
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08-05-2007, 09:25 PM
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#5
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Playboy Mansion Poolboy
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Close enough to make a beer run during a TV timeout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvp2003
what else would you recommend? Table saw? Circular saw? Sander? workbench?
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- Mitre saw with roller ends to support the wood.
- Cheap variable speed electric drill (corded as opposed to cordless) In a spall space like a basement the cord is less of a hassle, and always having the full power available is worth it.
- Powder action hammer. Basically a hammer that uses a .22 shell to drive a nail into concrete. The cheap one is $25 at Home Depot. Use to nail your bottom plates to the cement. And use pressure treated lumber for the bottom plates.
- Compresser and framing nailer. You can get a decent set for $300, and it will save you buckets of time and frustration.
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08-06-2007, 11:07 AM
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#6
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Lifetime Suspension
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What is meant by getting a permit?
How is that different than getting say an electrical inspection?
If you get permits won't the city know your basement is developed and charge you more property tax?
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08-06-2007, 11:17 AM
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#7
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Appealing my suspension
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Just outside Enemy Lines
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarkey
What is meant by getting a permit?
How is that different than getting say an electrical inspection?
If you get permits won't the city know your basement is developed and charge you more property tax?
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Yes they will....but every so often cities do inspections of properties and if you don't let them in to see the place they'll intentionally over charge you so that you demand an appeal and than let them on the premesis. If the city does a random inspection and finds out that your basement has been developed....you face a fine that will make you wish you had just got the permit.
I had an inspection done on my property this year and the guy said that they try to check every property that they have records of not having basement development about every 4 years.
__________________
"Some guys like old balls"
Patriots QB Tom Brady
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08-06-2007, 11:27 AM
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#8
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Playboy Mansion Poolboy
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Close enough to make a beer run during a TV timeout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarkey
What is meant by getting a permit?
How is that different than getting say an electrical inspection?
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You go to city hall to get a permit. Once you have completed the work, you call in to get an inspection. They won't inspect it without a permit, because by law- you are supposed to get one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarkey
If you get permits won't the city know your basement is developed and charge you more property tax?
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Yes. You will pay a small amount more for tax. But as opposed to the negatives of not getting a permit; I'd rather have those extra $2 per month be charged to my tax bill.
A classic example- you go to sell your house, and when you did the basement years earlier no permit was pulled. If a condition of sale is a housing inspection; you just gave the buyers a free pass to void the deal. And to say you'll pull the permits in case you want to sell the house; also be prepared to also pull off some of the drywall to allow the inspector to look at your work.
Or another example, a buddy of mine is now kicking himself. He didn't pull permits on his basement development, and its a walk out basement. When he went to have his house appraised prior to an equity loan, he wasn't able to show the walkout level in the square footage.
I've pulled about 5 or 6 permits, and the city isn't trying to bust your chops. They are trying to make sure you aren't building something that is unsafe.
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08-06-2007, 12:09 PM
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#9
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#1 Goaltender
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: An all-inclusive.
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From someone who is doing this kind of thing right now I would recommend you have:
Building/Wood-working - Building permit, Mitre saw, hand saw, measuring tape (with stud markings for convenience), bucket o' nails, hilti gun, level, a pad of paper for planning and writing. The biggest advice I have for this stage is that you must always build with the drywall in mind. Make sure that there is always a place to screw the drywall into. If there is a problem, fix it now and save yourself a headache later.
Electrical - electrical permit, spool of wire, hand drill with appropriate drill bits, recepticle and switch boxes, another pad of paper for planning, wire cutters/strippers, screw drivers, plier set. For the electrical you're supposed to get it inspected after running all the wires and tacking them in place but without connecting the switches and outlets. The final inspection is after you connect everything to the fuse box.
Drywall - level, square, sharp utility knife, small hand saw, lots of dry wall screws, hand drill with the dry wall screw bit. Make sure all the screws have a small indentation into the drywall. I only just finished installing the drywall so I haven't got any finishing advice yet.
Good luck.
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08-06-2007, 02:01 PM
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#10
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#1 Goaltender
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As a married man, two tools I find invaluable for my garage shop are a well-stocked fridge and a tv.
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08-06-2007, 09:04 PM
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#11
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hell
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make sure the crown on your 2x4's all face the same way, or the walls will be wavy.
__________________
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08-07-2007, 02:48 AM
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#12
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First Line Centre
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rathji
A drill is needed for Drywall, cordless is nice but fiddling and waiting for batteries to charge can be a pain. When you get your drywall mud, make sure it had a high glue ratio, alot of the stuff they sellat Rona will say multipurpose, but if there isnt enough glue in it, it will be near useless for papering your joints. Use the 'professional' paper tape, dont use the mesh stuff since you will pay far more and have to deal with more problems if your joints are not aligned.
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Doh! No wonder I had such a tough time getting those joints to stick! Something that I wish I had known YESTERDAY!
To make matters worse, I didnt have great corners to start with because I was joining drywall to a ceiling made of plaster. I needed the corner joints to average out the ceiling ... after hours of pain, it looks great now. But, it would have been much faster if I didnt have to redo so much of the corner joint because it didnt stick.... sigh.
As for the drill, I love the Dewalt 18V cordless. It comes with two batteries too, so you never have to wait for them to charge.
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08-07-2007, 05:51 AM
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#13
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Supporting Urban Sprawl
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarkey
What is meant by getting a permit?
How is that different than getting say an electrical inspection?
If you get permits won't the city know your basement is developed and charge you more property tax?
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If you get permits then you can list the your home with the basement developed, also if you have any problems that require insurance claims, the basement will also be included. Also, if you get your electrical inspection, it helps in preventing an insurance company from claiming your wiring was to blame.
You have 3(?) inspections in total for finishing. Your framing, electical and final. And I think you can do framing and elecrical at the same time. If they find any problems then they will probably tell you to fix it and not even bother wanting to come back to reinspect.
__________________
"Wake up, Luigi! The only time plumbers sleep on the job is when we're working by the hour."
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08-07-2007, 07:19 AM
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#14
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Playboy Mansion Poolboy
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Close enough to make a beer run during a TV timeout
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rathji
If they find any problems then they will probably tell you to fix it and not even bother wanting to come back to reinspect.
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Well, I would say that all depends. Yes, any time I've had an inspection; if they found one or two little things they will put it on your inspection that you have to fix them. But you have to have it pretty good to start with to get that kind of consideration.
For example in my garage there were a couple of little issues that the framing inspector let slide. But with my neighbour he had one wall right beside the property line, and the inspector will be coming back out to make sure that wall is properly fire rated.
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