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Old 04-22-2025, 11:46 AM   #2181
NuclearFart
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Originally Posted by bizaro86 View Post
I'm looking for some watch advice, and this seems like a good place to start. For pre-amble, I'm a (very) late 30s professional. I work from home, and haven't worn anything other than a Fitbit on my wrist since I got my first Blackberry 17-18 years ago. I'm turning 40 early next year, and am thinking it might be nice to buy a milestone watch as a memento. I have a mechanical engineering degree, and have always like machines etc, and while I've never owned anything nicer than a Timex Expedition as a watch, I'm thinking now might be the time. So I have a few different requests.
1) Is there somewhere that has a good "mechanical watches for dummies" type intro/FAQ?

Check out Teddy Baldasarre. He has a good mix vidoes going over beginner stuff and watch reviews in your price group.

2) Any thoughts on what order/items to buy? I realize I need to provide some more detail here.

In addition to whats already been mentioned, at this price point take a look at Tudor, Baltic and Christopher Ward.

3) What do people tend to like for sizing?

This is a hard one because alot of it comes down to what you like, but you probably cant go wrong with a 40mm. That said, the stated diameter can be misleading because there are many other factors that will also alter how the watch actually sits on your wrist beyond case diameter.

-Lug width, increased length and shallow curvature sit bigger.
-Lug absence/integrated bracelet sit smaller.
-Case shape. Squares & rectanges sit bigger, curved & circle sit smaller.
-Bracelet style. Slim & tapered sit smaller, fat & wide sit bigger.
-Bezel presence, width, edging, and overhang.

Best thing to do is physically go into a store and try it on.


4) Are there features/specifications that anyone thinks are must-have?

BIG NO! Just get what you like because everything has trade offs.

More complications are fun and intriguing, but drains your power reserve, clutters up the dial, has high servicing costs, and often leads to too many pushers & complicated settings methods.

Quartz is most accurate and convenient but boring and quite noisy tick. Hand wind mechanicals are alot thinner but are annoying to always have to wind. Automatic mechanicals are more convenient (just make sure the power reserve is at least >24 hours) and have that visual intrigue of a moving rotor but are generally alot thicker case and require more service intervals.

Gold is shiny, but dents/scratches very easily, is noticably more expensive & heavier, plus the bracelet links will stretch over time. Stainless steel is cheapest but nothing special. Titanium is light but dusky and more expensive. Ceramic is lightest & has that cool factor, but can fail catastrophically without repair options, and are neccessarily bigger. Bronze looks cool and unique, but will patina into something different than what you originaly bought.

Crystals made of hesalite & plastic have a nostalgic vintage look which is desirable to some, but will scratch very easily and visually distorts the dial. Sapphire is most expensive but most scratch resistant. Mineral glass is cheaper but less scratch resistant than sapphire.

If you asked me what traits I would value most in your situation: Sapphire crystal, stainless steel, mechnical automatic with >48 hours power reserve, and if you "like machines" - get an open case back!

Last edited by NuclearFart; 04-22-2025 at 12:00 PM.
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Old 04-22-2025, 11:55 AM   #2182
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I would definitely recommend. I've bought 2 - Bel Canto and a Twelve X - and I think they are outstanding for the price point. The brand has really matured quite fast over the last twenty years, doing all the little things things right with a remarkable balance between innovation and quality all while keeping their prices reasonable.

They are the darling of British watch making, and now straddle the entry and mid tier levels of horology. They get respect among enthusiasts and have even won a GPHG award (horology equivalent of an Oscar).
Thanks, my old unit is doing a bulk purchase, by order, of watches.

C60 Trident Pro 300.

The watch will be customized to celebrate specific items that are important to the unit and the owner of the watch, each one has space for customization
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Old 04-22-2025, 02:51 PM   #2183
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I'd second Tudor, they have a lot of really nice watches - IF you don't mind the snowflake hand. I have a titanium Pelagos that I quite like, it's a nice watch but not overly flashy and it's really comfortable. I usually wear one of my Rolex watches, but if I want understated then the Tudor or even Zenith work quite well.

I'm similar size as you and I find anything in the 39-42mm range is a nice size. Hamilton has some nice stuff if you're looking around that $1k price point, otherwise maybe some of the Seiko pieces might also work? Both brands have a ton of options so it's a matter of sorting through to find something appealing.
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Old 04-22-2025, 07:10 PM   #2184
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IMO, for bizaro86, I'd recommend the following ideas:

1. Automatic as everyone has mentioned. You want a milestone piece/mechanical creation, not an appliance.

2. Skeleton or open heart? You don't have other watches, so may want to have a chance to see the internal complications working in real time.

3. Size? You might be looking in the 36-38mm range if you've only had activity trackers. Bigger/bulkier than that and it might feel too heavy to be enjoyable. I love 40mm+ myself, but if you won't be comfortable wearing the piece, then the watch will not do as much to celebrate your milestone when it's in the closet vs your wrist.

4. Engineering inspired features? Some cool feature/or item that engineers might excite about?

5. Why not more than 1 watch? (ie: Few hundred dollars plus a few thousand dollars watch)

-------------

Automatic watch guide for dummies:
- Keep it moving. Or it'll stop moving.
- Service rates about same as a battery watch. Every 3-5 years, you may need a little maintenance.

-------------
Ideas:

1. Look into the Orient/Seiko brand. Find a decent watch. Then see if you can find a slightly elevated watch that is similar. (ie: Orient Mako & Tudor Black bay)? See if you're used to a Mako (for instance) before upgrading to something slightly nicer?

2. Go out and wear/hold watches. See how it feels. See what size you start gravitating to.

3. Go out and ask friends about watches. See if something specific starts catching your eye.

4. Don't worry about what others think. It's going to be your watch.
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Old 04-22-2025, 11:44 PM   #2185
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Regarding the "not flashy" concept, that's also why I suggested two watches, but slightly different than your idea of getting several "entry level" watches before making a splash.

In the past I've mentioned this watch of mine that I call "dad bling":

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071W6HXV6?...d_asin_title_2

I literally paid less than $200 for it a few years ago. People think it's ridiculously expensive. That's when I pull it off my wrist and put it in their hands, tell them to try it on (male or female) and watch them squirm. Watching their body relax when I tell them I paid less than $200 for it and then suddenly looking at it closer with more interest is always great. I had a lady wear it and comment that it looked great as a bangle. She ran off to her boyfriend and asked him to buy something similar.

I also have this one that I've mentioned before:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01HGWCPQQ?...d_asin_title_2

Similar concept, although for "dad bling" under $200, it doesn't gather the funny stories that the above Seiko does. It gets all the drug dealer stories.

There's two ways about it.

You get used to wearing an auto and decide whether you actually want to go up a tier and spend 10x to the one on your wrist. If you just don't like the weight and how "weird it is" then you've learned for less. (I literally met a guy who owns an Omega planet Ocean who never wears it because it gives him wrist pain from the weight. He said his limit is 45 minutes. He said he is sad about it because it was a gift from his late father and he wishes he could actually wear it more often.)

Second, people also get used to seeing you with a $300-500 automatic and realize it's not something intended to be intimidating. Then one day you're wandering around with a similar one that's 10x the price, no one really looks at you uncomfortably. For my friend group, those two above "dad bling" watches at <$200 garnered the most "discomfort" and thus, subsequent hilarity of all watches I've ever owned. They are also the least expensive of almost all of the watches I own, besting juggernaut brands like Braun, Daniel Wellington, Skagen etc. in price point. I have 1 watch over $1K. I have a dozen watches between $100-500.

I understand and it's commendable that you don't want friends to be uncomfortable. But part of that is also how you behave with the watch in front of your financially conscious friends. If you're always talking about how expensive it was, blah, blah blah, it'll be weird for them. If you treat it like an every day item, occasionally let them hold it (carefully) and never bring attention to it, they shouldn't be as easily be weirded out by it/may become comfortable around it. Kinda like Sliver's story about the badass watch he saw, only to realize it was a $100K watch. Same thing can be done with a $3-5K watch.

Regarding the idea of going Citizen Brycen, Hamilton Field then Omega (Deville)... I think it seems like you're kinda going for a dress watch path. A path parallel to that could be:

Orient Bambino ($200-450) Dress auto with variety of faces, I love the domed glass on many of them.
https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=orient+bam...f=nb_sb_noss_1

Seiko Alpinist/Bulova Lunar Pilot ($500-850)

https://www.amazon.ca/Bulova-Archive...s%2C138&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.ca/Bulova-96B251-...s%2C138&sr=8-5

Around $1K... I wonder if some Raymond Weil that will catch your eye. Movado is another that I wonder if you'd take an extended look at.

https://www.amazon.ca/Raymond-Weil-2...s%2C166&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.ca/Movado-Swiss-Q...%2C139&sr=8-55


I'm also inexplicably curious about what you'd think about the Citizen Axiom, and I wonder if you'd enjoy playing around with custom straps (ie: Nato straps, ceramic straps, bracelet etc.). Some of those dress watch faces look pretty dang good with a steel or ceramic bracelet.

You may also want to investigate steel bracelet types.

https://www.watchobsession.co.uk/blo...LvYtNKdkKaQDEz

I have a feeling you'd like the rice or jubilee style bracelet over something like the oyster.
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Old 04-23-2025, 11:29 AM   #2186
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Based on what you've stated, I'd start with getting an automatic and something in the size range of 42 is probably perfect; but definitely try stuff on and see how sizing feels for you.

If you don't want a busy looking watch, you don't need more complications (features).
Skip the chronographs, day date functions, moon-phases etc.
Those generally add cost as well, because the watch is doing these from mechanical function which makes for a more complicated watch.

Some watches of the same size will feel larger/smaller too based on the lug length, how the bracelet fits etc.

It sounds like something with less complications to keep the dial simple and perhaps stick dial hour marker instead of numbers.

Perhaps the Omega Aqua Terra line?
It's a subset of the Seamasters and has a very clean design.
https://www.omegawatches.com/en-ca/w...22010412101002

These are also very readily available on the used market and negotiable if buying new.

I'm not sure about the buying a $1000 watch to test things out and then buying another watch. IMO, that could end up a waste of money.
If you're going to do that, maybe buy something used that you can at least re sell for about the same price or close to if you get bored of it.
Used for an "tester" watch seems like a good idea. I like the clean line on the Aqua Terra for sure, and Omega's definitely a brand I'm leaning toward, although I really don't like the arrowhead on the end of the minute hand on that one. Too many bad memories of vector math...

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Originally Posted by TorqueDog View Post
First and foremost, automatic. Even though I have a manual-wind Omega Speedy Pro and have owned manual-wind PAMs, I would say most people are best suited to automatic watches if they’re going mechanical.

Second, get your watch on a bracelet, and buy a strap for it afterwards. If you ever resell it, it’s easier to sell with a bracelet, and to get a bracelet after the fact is much more expensive.

You mentioned you’re an engineer, so my first two recommendations here are very much engineer‘s watches.

Since the Rolex Milgauss is out of your price range, you should take a look at the Omega Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss. Timeless Seamaster case design, Aqua Terra ‘teak’ dial, and kind of a cool sweep seconds hand that is unique to the >15,000 Gauss model. Also has a display back which someone who enjoys and appreciates the mechanical aspect of a watch will appreciate.

Alternatively, check out Ball Watch Co. Search “Ball” on Chrono24. They’re unique amongst Swiss watchmakers (nearly all watchmakers, in fact) in that they still incorporate tritium markers (in sealed tubes, denoted T or T25 on the dial near the ‘Swiss Made’ marking) in their watches for lume, instead of the SuperLuminova that the rest of the industry switched to. They glow like a torch. Across their entire lineup, they’re more aligned with your cheaper price range you mentioned too.
Automatic definitely seems to be the way to go here, thanks!

Are the magnetic resistance ratings similar to the water depth ones (where they're vastly overstated for regular use and 30m depth is borderline splash-proof)? Because 15,000 gauss is the amount you'd need if you wore it inside an average MRI machine. I definitely want something that wearing it near my computer speakers won't wreck. I'll have to look into how they shield them from magnetic fields of that strength anyway, that's neat.

I love the Ball designs, thanks for suggesting them! The Tritium is neat (and should be longer lasting imo). I quite like this one: https://www.chrono24.ca/ball/trainma...5_kz2L8D&pos=1
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Old 04-23-2025, 12:22 PM   #2187
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Originally Posted by bizaro86 View Post
Used for an "tester" watch seems like a good idea. I like the clean line on the Aqua Terra for sure, and Omega's definitely a brand I'm leaning toward, although I really don't like the arrowhead on the end of the minute hand on that one. Too many bad memories of vector math...



Automatic definitely seems to be the way to go here, thanks!

Are the magnetic resistance ratings similar to the water depth ones (where they're vastly overstated for regular use and 30m depth is borderline splash-proof)? Because 15,000 gauss is the amount you'd need if you wore it inside an average MRI machine. I definitely want something that wearing it near my computer speakers won't wreck. I'll have to look into how they shield them from magnetic fields of that strength anyway, that's neat.

I love the Ball designs, thanks for suggesting them! The Tritium is neat (and should be longer lasting imo). I quite like this one: https://www.chrono24.ca/ball/trainma...5_kz2L8D&pos=1

I use to wear a watch when I was younger it got stolen and ended up buying the same watch but never wore it.. having it stolen just kind of soured it for me.

I had the first apple watch and didn't like it. After my dad passed and Im a new dad myself I was thinking of getting a watch always liked his dive watch so probably spent a year researching and looking into things. I have smaller wrists 6.5-6.75 inch and didn't want a super large looking watch. Wanted something quality but not crazy expensive, thinner and not huge if I bought something I didn't like I just wouldn't wear it..

You saying your an engineer makes you think about rolex milgauss just popped into my head.

I ended up getting a omega midsize peter blake quartz watch and love it super comfortable and THIN 11 mm thick versus seiko diver is like 14mm..

Maybe next time I will get an auto but they make this watch in quartz and auto looks the same and quartz is more accurate which at this point I prefer. Maybe could of went with the 41mm version but smaller seemed safer for me personally. If it was a watch you could buy new would of been nice to compare both but I bought it online without trying it on so bit risky haha. But it has a more classic smaller size which I am happy with even though divers are meant to usually be larger. Now that I am comfortable wearing a watch again maybe my next one will be bigger.

I am glad I took my time waiting to find a watch cause it was not cheap but not crazy expensive but feels well built and I feel it has a timeless design. my dream watch would be a 5 digit rolex submariner, prefer older as the new ones b chonky
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Old 04-23-2025, 01:09 PM   #2188
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Originally Posted by NuclearFart View Post
1) Is there somewhere that has a good "mechanical watches for dummies" type intro/FAQ?

Check out Teddy Baldasarre. He has a good mix vidoes going over beginner stuff and watch reviews in your price group.

2) Any thoughts on what order/items to buy? I realize I need to provide some more detail here.

In addition to whats already been mentioned, at this price point take a look at Tudor, Baltic and Christopher Ward.

3) What do people tend to like for sizing?

This is a hard one because alot of it comes down to what you like, but you probably cant go wrong with a 40mm. That said, the stated diameter can be misleading because there are many other factors that will also alter how the watch actually sits on your wrist beyond case diameter.

-Lug width, increased length and shallow curvature sit bigger.
-Lug absence/integrated bracelet sit smaller.
-Case shape. Squares & rectanges sit bigger, curved & circle sit smaller.
-Bracelet style. Slim & tapered sit smaller, fat & wide sit bigger.
-Bezel presence, width, edging, and overhang.

Best thing to do is physically go into a store and try it on.


4) Are there features/specifications that anyone thinks are must-have?

BIG NO! Just get what you like because everything has trade offs.

More complications are fun and intriguing, but drains your power reserve, clutters up the dial, has high servicing costs, and often leads to too many pushers & complicated settings methods.

Quartz is most accurate and convenient but boring and quite noisy tick. Hand wind mechanicals are alot thinner but are annoying to always have to wind. Automatic mechanicals are more convenient (just make sure the power reserve is at least >24 hours) and have that visual intrigue of a moving rotor but are generally alot thicker case and require more service intervals.

Gold is shiny, but dents/scratches very easily, is noticably more expensive & heavier, plus the bracelet links will stretch over time. Stainless steel is cheapest but nothing special. Titanium is light but dusky and more expensive. Ceramic is lightest & has that cool factor, but can fail catastrophically without repair options, and are neccessarily bigger. Bronze looks cool and unique, but will patina into something different than what you originaly bought.

Crystals made of hesalite & plastic have a nostalgic vintage look which is desirable to some, but will scratch very easily and visually distorts the dial. Sapphire is most expensive but most scratch resistant. Mineral glass is cheaper but less scratch resistant than sapphire.

If you asked me what traits I would value most in your situation: Sapphire crystal, stainless steel, mechnical automatic with >48 hours power reserve, and if you "like machines" - get an open case back!
Thank you for the links to the videos - that's very helpful and exactly what I was looking for.

I also really appreciate the bolded and the logic leading up to it - those all seem like excellent things to search for!
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Old 04-23-2025, 01:19 PM   #2189
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Originally Posted by undercoverbrother View Post
Does anyone know or have experience with Christopher Ward watches?

I have two. The C63 Sealander GMT and the C60 Trident. I like them. I do want to get a bracelet for my Sealander though. I got it with a leather strap. I see prices have gone up a bit from when I purchased mine.


My next watch is going to be the Tudor Pelagos LHD. I wear my watch on my right wrist. My youngest is a lefty and also wears his watch on his right side so my thoughts are to give it to him eventually.
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Old 04-23-2025, 01:24 PM   #2190
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Originally Posted by SilverKast View Post
I'd second Tudor, they have a lot of really nice watches - IF you don't mind the snowflake hand. I have a titanium Pelagos that I quite like, it's a nice watch but not overly flashy and it's really comfortable. I usually wear one of my Rolex watches, but if I want understated then the Tudor or even Zenith work quite well.

I'm similar size as you and I find anything in the 39-42mm range is a nice size. Hamilton has some nice stuff if you're looking around that $1k price point, otherwise maybe some of the Seiko pieces might also work? Both brands have a ton of options so it's a matter of sorting through to find something appealing.

Thanks! Hamilton and Seiko are definitely both things that I'm looking at - although it seems like I could spend weeks sorting through them and never see them all!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleF View Post
IMO, for bizaro86, I'd recommend the following ideas:

1. Automatic as everyone has mentioned. You want a milestone piece/mechanical creation, not an appliance.

2. Skeleton or open heart? You don't have other watches, so may want to have a chance to see the internal complications working in real time.

3. Size? You might be looking in the 36-38mm range if you've only had activity trackers. Bigger/bulkier than that and it might feel too heavy to be enjoyable. I love 40mm+ myself, but if you won't be comfortable wearing the piece, then the watch will not do as much to celebrate your milestone when it's in the closet vs your wrist.

4. Engineering inspired features? Some cool feature/or item that engineers might excite about?

5. Why not more than 1 watch? (ie: Few hundred dollars plus a few thousand dollars watch)

-------------

Automatic watch guide for dummies:
- Keep it moving. Or it'll stop moving.
- Service rates about same as a battery watch. Every 3-5 years, you may need a little maintenance.

-------------
Ideas:

1. Look into the Orient/Seiko brand. Find a decent watch. Then see if you can find a slightly elevated watch that is similar. (ie: Orient Mako & Tudor Black bay)? See if you're used to a Mako (for instance) before upgrading to something slightly nicer?

2. Go out and wear/hold watches. See how it feels. See what size you start gravitating to.

3. Go out and ask friends about watches. See if something specific starts catching your eye.

4. Don't worry about what others think. It's going to be your watch.
I'm definitely leaning toward getting a couple of watches, just even for variety. I don't want to get carried away though either...
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Old 04-23-2025, 01:31 PM   #2191
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Others have covered it well, but a few thoughts:

If this is your first watch, I would recommend getting a classic stainless-steel sports watch, on a bracelet, with a neutral coloured dial (black, white, silver....maybe blue if you're feeling frisky). Assuming it's from a quality brand, that watch will serve you well for 90% of professional and social settings. They can be dressed up or down, go with everything from t-shirts and most suits, and will usually mean you can wear it for decades if you want.

Dress watches are cool, but their use-case is much narrower, and a good quality one isn't cheap because they are all about material quality and craftsmanship. So unless your day involves walking around being a real fancy boy, leave this for later.*

Avoid the trap of skeletons, exotic materials, funky/coloured dials etc. The novelty wears off fast (as well as value). Leave that for down the line.

It might be heresy for enthusiasts, but for most people, a quartz watch is going to a better use of funds than an equivalent mechanical movement. A lot of the appeal of a "nice" watch comes from the better materials, the case, the finishing quality etc. Having a mechanical movement is cool, but for most, it's not worth the cost premium...especially when you consider servicing costs. The last time I asked about sending in my Speedy for a servicing, it was going to be about a $1000 (having said that, I've had mine for almost 15 years without a service and it's still running fine).

*If you do need a more affordable dress watch, I think something like the Seiko Cocktail Time is a great one.
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Old 04-23-2025, 01:33 PM   #2192
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Just know that some of the cheaper options -- while they look aesthetically pleasing -- can sometimes feel a bit... thin. By that, I mean so lightweight so as to feel cheap and a little tinny. Usually it's the result of hollow endlinks or mid-links on the bracelets, thinner steel, etc. It can be a bit underwhelming in the hand. IMHO, a little heft to a watch isn't entirely a bad thing. Even a 36mm watch can have an appropriately substantial feel to it. At least for bracelets, you can somewhat reduce the tinny feel by using some bike chain lube (stay with me here).

When cleaning my watches, I would pop off the bracelets and run them in an ultrasonic using some Dawn dish liquid mixed into the water, then using an infant-soft toothbrush to carefully clean the cases. After I thoroughly dried the bracelets, I would pop them into a ziplock bag with some Rock-N-Roll Extreme bike chain lube (the blue stuff) and work it into the bracelet for a couple minutes, then rinse under warm water and use some paper towel to dry and articulate the bracelet until it was dry and clean on the outside. Works like a treat.
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Old 04-23-2025, 01:35 PM   #2193
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@ Table 5 Agreed with most of that, but to me half the beauty of the watch is the mechanical movement. If you are getting quartz, then just get a Timex or Casio.

You can get some really nice mechanical watches that won't break the bank, especially of Japanese make - Orient or Seiko for a few hundo.
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Old 04-23-2025, 01:51 PM   #2194
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@ Table 5 Agreed with most of that, but to me half the beauty of the watch is the mechanical movement. If you are getting quartz, then just get a Timex or Casio.
As an enthusiast... I will always prefer a mechanic movement. But for the layman or someone on a tighter budget, I don't think it's a total deal breaker. If all things are equal, I'd rather have a quartz watch with a higher quality case and solid materials, than a mechanical watch with jankier materials (especially when it at this price point you're typically getting an off the shelf movement anyway).

I bought my wife a Cartier Tank Quartz when we got married 10+ years ago. She loves the watch, it's been her daily driver the entire time, but she has absolutely no idea what's inside, nor does she care. Getting her the mechanical version would have been a total waste.
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Old 04-23-2025, 01:52 PM   #2195
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Originally Posted by DoubleF View Post
Regarding the "not flashy" concept, that's also why I suggested two watches, but slightly different than your idea of getting several "entry level" watches before making a splash.

In the past I've mentioned this watch of mine that I call "dad bling":

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B071W6HXV6?...d_asin_title_2

I literally paid less than $200 for it a few years ago. People think it's ridiculously expensive. That's when I pull it off my wrist and put it in their hands, tell them to try it on (male or female) and watch them squirm. Watching their body relax when I tell them I paid less than $200 for it and then suddenly looking at it closer with more interest is always great. I had a lady wear it and comment that it looked great as a bangle. She ran off to her boyfriend and asked him to buy something similar.

I also have this one that I've mentioned before:

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01HGWCPQQ?...d_asin_title_2

Similar concept, although for "dad bling" under $200, it doesn't gather the funny stories that the above Seiko does. It gets all the drug dealer stories.

There's two ways about it.

You get used to wearing an auto and decide whether you actually want to go up a tier and spend 10x to the one on your wrist. If you just don't like the weight and how "weird it is" then you've learned for less. (I literally met a guy who owns an Omega planet Ocean who never wears it because it gives him wrist pain from the weight. He said his limit is 45 minutes. He said he is sad about it because it was a gift from his late father and he wishes he could actually wear it more often.)

Second, people also get used to seeing you with a $300-500 automatic and realize it's not something intended to be intimidating. Then one day you're wandering around with a similar one that's 10x the price, no one really looks at you uncomfortably. For my friend group, those two above "dad bling" watches at <$200 garnered the most "discomfort" and thus, subsequent hilarity of all watches I've ever owned. They are also the least expensive of almost all of the watches I own, besting juggernaut brands like Braun, Daniel Wellington, Skagen etc. in price point. I have 1 watch over $1K. I have a dozen watches between $100-500.

I understand and it's commendable that you don't want friends to be uncomfortable. But part of that is also how you behave with the watch in front of your financially conscious friends. If you're always talking about how expensive it was, blah, blah blah, it'll be weird for them. If you treat it like an every day item, occasionally let them hold it (carefully) and never bring attention to it, they shouldn't be as easily be weirded out by it/may become comfortable around it. Kinda like Sliver's story about the badass watch he saw, only to realize it was a $100K watch. Same thing can be done with a $3-5K watch.

Regarding the idea of going Citizen Brycen, Hamilton Field then Omega (Deville)... I think it seems like you're kinda going for a dress watch path. A path parallel to that could be:

Orient Bambino ($200-450) Dress auto with variety of faces, I love the domed glass on many of them.
https://www.amazon.ca/s?k=orient+bam...f=nb_sb_noss_1

Seiko Alpinist/Bulova Lunar Pilot ($500-850)

https://www.amazon.ca/Bulova-Archive...s%2C138&sr=8-6
https://www.amazon.ca/Bulova-96B251-...s%2C138&sr=8-5

Around $1K... I wonder if some Raymond Weil that will catch your eye. Movado is another that I wonder if you'd take an extended look at.

https://www.amazon.ca/Raymond-Weil-2...s%2C166&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.ca/Movado-Swiss-Q...%2C139&sr=8-55


I'm also inexplicably curious about what you'd think about the Citizen Axiom, and I wonder if you'd enjoy playing around with custom straps (ie: Nato straps, ceramic straps, bracelet etc.). Some of those dress watch faces look pretty dang good with a steel or ceramic bracelet.

You may also want to investigate steel bracelet types.

https://www.watchobsession.co.uk/blo...LvYtNKdkKaQDEz

I have a feeling you'd like the rice or jubilee style bracelet over something like the oyster.
Thanks! Those "Dad-bling" ones are quite something. Not for me but I can understand how they'd catch someone's eye. As for the bolded, I'm quite understated and that's something I would never do.

You're definitely correct that I'm more on a dress watch path. I like the Orient Bambino and will look further into that for sure. I like the design language on the Bulova but that's probably more than I'd want going on - a simpler version with the same font/colors would be appealing. I think the Movado is interesting but I do like having the Arabic numerals on the dial.

I like the understated nature of the Axiom - something like this (But in steel not gold) would be nice: https://www.chrono24.ca/citizen/axio...0_4gPtPY&pos=1

Thanks for the article on the different bracelets! That's very helpful and exactly the sort of thing I'm trying to figure out. You're 100% that I like the grains of rice better than the oyster, it's not even close actually.
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Old 04-23-2025, 02:13 PM   #2196
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Others have covered it well, but a few thoughts:

If this is your first watch, I would recommend getting a classic stainless-steel sports watch, on a bracelet, with a neutral coloured dial (black, white, silver....maybe blue if you're feeling frisky). Assuming it's from a quality brand, that watch will serve you well for 90% of professional and social settings. They can be dressed up or down, go with everything from t-shirts and most suits, and will usually mean you can wear it for decades if you want.

Dress watches are cool, but their use-case is much narrower, and a good quality one isn't cheap because they are all about material quality and craftsmanship. So unless your day involves walking around being a real fancy boy, leave this for later.*

Avoid the trap of skeletons, exotic materials, funky/coloured dials etc. The novelty wears off fast (as well as value). Leave that for down the line.

It might be heresy for enthusiasts, but for most people, a quartz watch is going to a better use of funds than an equivalent mechanical movement. A lot of the appeal of a "nice" watch comes from the better materials, the case, the finishing quality etc. Having a mechanical movement is cool, but for most, it's not worth the cost premium...especially when you consider servicing costs. The last time I asked about sending in my Speedy for a servicing, it was going to be about a $1000 (having said that, I've had mine for almost 15 years without a service and it's still running fine).

*If you do need a more affordable dress watch, I think something like the Seiko Cocktail Time is a great one.
I'm definitely not a fancy person (I wear a suit ~1x/year). That said, I'm leaning more the dress watch direction more for simplicity than for "fancy". EG I really like something like the Nomos Ahoi - not really a "fancy" watch but simple and good design.

https://www.chrono24.ca/nomos/ahoi-a...id39309382.htm
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Old 04-23-2025, 02:50 PM   #2197
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Nomos is a good choice, they are an elegant option that always presents well in person. And they are not classically dressy either, so can easily fit in an office/work environment. I've considered a Nomos many times, especially since I'm a fan of the Bauhaus aesthetic... just can't seem to pull the trigger.

If you like that look, but want a more affordable option, you may also want to look at a Junghans (ie. the Max Bill). The German watches in general are an interesting alternative to the typical Swiss/Japanese brands, I've always wanted a Sinn and Stowa too.

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Old 04-23-2025, 04:18 PM   #2198
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Nomos are really cool.
I've heard some of them wear larger due to the lug design, so make sure you try them on.

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Old 04-23-2025, 05:15 PM   #2199
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I'm looking for some watch advice, and this seems like a good place to start. For pre-amble, I'm a (very) late 30s professional. I work from home, and haven't worn anything other than a Fitbit on my wrist since I got my first Blackberry 17-18 years ago. I'm turning 40 early next year, and am thinking it might be nice to buy a milestone watch as a memento....
Be careful... About 6 years ago I was a working professional in my very late 30's looking for a memento/milestone watch for my 40th birthday, and I have spent more money then I care to admit on this hobby hahahah

Lots of great advise already. I started my journey by just looking up stuff online and I thought I knew what I wanted and boy was I wrong. My budget was around the same and I did end up going to the 10k'ish mark on my first luxury watch. I recommend just trying everything on. When I did that, I got completely overwhelmed and realized I really did not know what I wanted. So I just started buying Citizen and Seiko's. Every few months I would splurge and buy a watch, making sure that it was different from previous purchases. Different style bracelets/straps, different cases sizes (thick, thin, big and small), different dials (Arabic and/or roman numerals, inclusion of sub dials) etc. I didn't buy my milestone watch until I was 42 but I am very happy with my choice.

I spent approximately $1,500ish on the various watches. To me, it was totally worth it because when I upped the budget I knew I was getting something that I would really enjoy. It has also helped with subsequent purchases. I learned that i do not like like butterfly clasps, or leather straps, I know I need micro adjustments, I wont buy anything over 40mm etc.

You may want to check out is Sinn. I believe they start at around $2,000ish. I own a Sinn 556A RS. The new bracelet is supposed to be awesome. Longines is another brand i would look at. They are coming out with some watches that are really good bang for the buck. Tudor or Omega are classics and you can not go wrong with either.
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Old 04-24-2025, 12:04 AM   #2200
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Thanks! Those "Dad-bling" ones are quite something. Not for me but I can understand how they'd catch someone's eye. As for the bolded, I'm quite understated and that's something I would never do.

You're definitely correct that I'm more on a dress watch path. I like the Orient Bambino and will look further into that for sure. I like the design language on the Bulova but that's probably more than I'd want going on - a simpler version with the same font/colors would be appealing. I think the Movado is interesting but I do like having the Arabic numerals on the dial.

I like the understated nature of the Axiom - something like this (But in steel not gold) would be nice: https://www.chrono24.ca/citizen/axio...0_4gPtPY&pos=1

Thanks for the article on the different bracelets! That's very helpful and exactly the sort of thing I'm trying to figure out. You're 100% that I like the grains of rice better than the oyster, it's not even close actually.
I meant as long as you don't do that, you probably don't have to worry about your financially conscious friends. How comfortable they are is a reflection of your behaviour, not the item itself.

In a similar vein (not watches), people requesting a glass for water in my home often would be handed a Mikasa crystal glass. They'd bug eye and ask why I gave them a fancy glass for water. I'd laugh and tell them they were $10 for 4 at Winners and I got them because they're far more durable than $1 Walmart/IKEA glasses for incrementally more. After a while, everyone is just relaxed around it all. I started adding $15-25 Waterford glasses when they popped up at Winners (I just liked the look and feel of them for Scotch/Whisky/Cocktails). I didn't really treat them differently. Friends would grab one, pause and then ask me if it was nicer than the Mikasa. "Is this more expensive? It just feels nicer. That's why I'm asking." "A little more, but don't worry about." Relaxed vibes at my place. IDGAF at my place. I think mugs are more likely to shatter in kids hands than the crystal glasses. A collector mug is like $15-30. Not much more than the Waterford crystal and far more expensive than the Mikasa Crystal. But both look better than basic mugs.

I make most of my things accessible in my home. It amplifies my enjoyment. If there's something I ask others to be careful around, they're all vigilant on my behalf. I was kinda surprised by that. Friends that self proclaim to barely know alcohol? They're the ones to give that nip of nice scotch for a laugh. The same is true for watches. I put those things in the hands of friends when they're over for a chuckle.

There's a steel and a black Axiom.

https://www.amazon.ca/Citizen-Eco-Dr...%2C109&sr=8-17

https://www.amazon.ca/Citizen-Eco-Dr...%2C109&sr=8-10


There's a few Bambinos with light mesh and oyster bracelets by default. I'm not a fan of the mesh bracelet, but grains of rice might certainly look really good on a few of those Bambinos. You'd also have a unique piece with that custom combination. TBH, I think your journey might influence me to nab a jubilee strap or two to breathe new cycle into my leather strap bambinos.
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