Random Questions Mega Thread v1.1

[Titan2]

@surferguy but figured I would post vs. DM to share his wisdom. I am looking to treat my cutting boards. Pretty much cheap Ikea ones but I do have a Boos board. It appears food grade mineral oil is the way to go. Some also recomend a beeswax eithe mixed in or applied after. Also, another poster on Reddit suggeste using vacuum bags with mineral oil and soakiiung for 24 hours. Claims to have caused twice the amount of oil to be absorbed.

Some have also recomended Walrus Oil but that is a US product so no go. ]

So:
1. Mineral Oil only?
2. Mineral oil sous vide?
3. Wax, yes or no?
4. A concoction of mineral oil and wax mixture?
5. Some other process not mentioned here?

Appreciate any feedback from anyone but holding out for the pro...


There are million posts on creating a mineral oil/wax concoction but here is one: https://www.reddit.com/r/Cuttingboar...l_oil_beeswax/

Link to the reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/Cuttingboar...d_ive_already/

I also saw this product and was considering it: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074PYZL25/...9kZXRhaWw&th=1

[Geraldsh]

Originally Posted by Titan2

@surferguy but figured I would post vs. DM to share his wisdom. I am looking to treat my cutting boards. Pretty much cheap Ikea ones but I do have a Boos board. It appears food grade mineral oil is the way to go. Some also recomend a beeswax eithe mixed in or applied after. Also, another poster on Reddit suggeste using vacuum bags with mineral oil and soakiiung for 24 hours. Claims to have caused twice the amount of oil to be absorbed.

Some have also recomended Walrus Oil but that is a US product so no go. ]

So:
1. Mineral Oil only?
2. Mineral oil sous vide?
3. Wax, yes or no?
4. A concoction of mineral oil and wax mixture?
5. Some other process not mentioned here?

Appreciate any feedback from anyone but holding out for the pro...


There are million posts on creating a mineral oil/wax concoction but here is one: https://www.reddit.com/r/Cuttingboar...l_oil_beeswax/

Link to the reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/Cuttingboar...d_ive_already/

I also saw this product and was considering it: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074PYZL25/...9kZXRhaWw&th=1

I have made a few boards, mostly maple, and use only mineral oil. Apply liberally whenever they look dry.
Recommended frequency for a new board:
Once a day for the first week
Once a week for the first month
Once a month for the first year

[surferguy]

Originally Posted by Titan2

@surferguy but figured I would post vs. DM to share his wisdom. I am looking to treat my cutting boards. Pretty much cheap Ikea ones but I do have a Boos board. It appears food grade mineral oil is the way to go. Some also recomend a beeswax eithe mixed in or applied after. Also, another poster on Reddit suggeste using vacuum bags with mineral oil and soakiiung for 24 hours. Claims to have caused twice the amount of oil to be absorbed.

Some have also recomended Walrus Oil but that is a US product so no go. ]

So:
1. Mineral Oil only?
2. Mineral oil sous vide?
3. Wax, yes or no?
4. A concoction of mineral oil and wax mixture?
5. Some other process not mentioned here?

Appreciate any feedback from anyone but holding out for the pro...


There are million posts on creating a mineral oil/wax concoction but here is one: https://www.reddit.com/r/Cuttingboar...l_oil_beeswax/

Link to the reddit thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/Cuttingboar...d_ive_already/

I also saw this product and was considering it: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B074PYZL25/...9kZXRhaWw&th=1

**cracks knuckles**

My process is simple, its mineral oil. Personally I have a big Rubbermaid of the stuff and all new boards I have take a 24hr bath in it. Its likely overkill but its just how my timing works as I build. Different species will soak up more oil depending on the porosity of their grains. Your Ikea board is likely birch which would be similar to a maple but not dense.

Your board is likely in need of a refresh. Soaking it is your best path forward for anything that is beyond a "topical refresh"

Topical refresh: This is where your wood wax comes in (mineral oil and beeswax combo). After I soak my boards, I let them dry out/drain for a day before I coat them in the wood wax conditioner. This is a topical treatment, as in it creates an envelope film on the outside of the board. Basically a cream the consistency of butter.

The idea is that it will mush that wax down into any open pore creating a barrier for water/stuff to penetrate. This will break down over time as you wash your board/use it. This is where it is imperative to reapply to keep your board looking fresh and protected. Apply liberally, let it stand for 10/15 mins, buff it off with a paper towel. You are ready to go.

Washing your board: Use soap and water. Never let in soak, never put it in the dishwasher. After washing towel dry it immediately and put it on edge to let it finish drying. Leaving it flat can lead to warping or humping (snicker).

My recommendations. Grab a bottle of mineral oil from shoppers or superstore and find a pan or container that you can best soak your board in. Keep it slathered in oil as best as possible for 24 hrs if you can. Use a sponge to slop on the oil and turn it over every time, just try and keep the surface wet as best as possible.

Once that is done, let the board dry out. Then get some wood wax and apply as described above. When that process is complete you are ready to go!

Reach out to me and I can give you one of my tins of wood wax.

I hadn't heard the recommendation that Geraldish has above about a conditioning schedule but I like it and it certainly wouldn't be bad for your board. I will probably start recommending that to my client going forward.

Regarding Walrus and other topicals that you can buy, they will for sure work but they are more expensive and are basically the same thing. Keep it simple and your boards should last a long time.

Hopefully that covers everything. Feel free to respond if you have more questions or if I overlooked anything in my process.

Happy conditioning!

[Fuzz]

Have you tried warming the board slightly? I do the mineral oil soak and wax as well. I did try putting it in the oven(just warmed slightly and turned off, I don't think it was over 40C) to see if the wax penetrated more. I think it's lasted longer, but no scientific testing done!

[DoubleF]

It sounds like the sous vide technique for mineral oil is intended to speed up surferguy's concept of a 24 hour soak. Sous vide for 24 hours though, I don't know if that would end up being a weird "issue" where there's so much oil in the wood that oil would just constantly keep seeping out of the wood later on like a damp sponge (if it indeed soaks up twice as much). The technique could work for scenarios where the wood is thick and harder for the oil to penetrate.


My piggyback question. The mineral oil/beeswax combo can be recommended regardless of situation for basically any wood board situation, right?

Originally Posted by Fuzz

Have you tried warming the board slightly? I do the mineral oil soak and wax as well. I did try putting it in the oven(just warmed slightly and turned off, I don't think it was over 40C) to see if the wax penetrated more. I think it's lasted longer, but no scientific testing done!

I was wondering the same thing about heat. I don't know if it helps the mineral oil, but I could see a scenario where heat perhaps improves the wax coating.

[surferguy]

I suppose you could heat the board but I haven't tried it personally so I cant really speak to it.

I've seen guys online that dip their entire boards in wax and that to me is overkill and wasteful.

@DoubleF - wax condition is great anytime for a refresh, it will bring back colour and add the protective layer but if the board gets beyond "just a refresh" its time to do a full re-oil.

[Geraldsh]

Heating is a common practice for drying wood. I if was going to experiment I would try heating the wax before applying.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by surferguy

I suppose you could heat the board but I haven't tried it personally so I cant really speak to it.

I've seen guys online that dip their entire boards in wax and that to me is overkill and wasteful.

@DoubleF - wax condition is great anytime for a refresh, it will bring back colour and add the protective layer but if the board gets beyond "just a refresh" its time to do a full re-oil.

IMO I probably wouldn't heat any wood (even if it's only slightly higher than body temp) that isn't fresh from a mineral soak. I assume it'd increase the risk of separation, cracking or warping. Fuzz's method kinda reminds me of seasoning a pan and it makes sense to me if it's fresh from a soak.

I have a short cutting board with a handle that was a gift. I've done nothing with for perhaps a decade. Honestly I feel like it's a little too nice to use and I've only used it a few dozen times. But having seen your board, if I can get that level of oil/wax finish on it, I won't worry as much using it regularly for charcuterie. I have always been weirded out by the idea of a mineral soak, but after realizing what your wares look like/can look like with it done correctly, I'm cool with doing it that way going forward.

I'll take a look at it later, but I think it will definitely need the mineral oil soak before beeswax. The wood on it has always seemed like it was a wee bit dry even from the first day I got it (was made in Manitoba). I just gotta go find some oil and wax.

This convo made me curious again and I looked at your wares. I couldn't help but become fascinated with the one that looked like it had a Monchhichi flanked by Grogu. You had a few that looked like Russian dolls side by side too that were already sold.

I'm still sad about the angry tiki/space invader board that I'll be gifting.

[indes]

I have an invention in mind that I would like to prototype. It's pretty simple and the prototype would be made of plastic and it would need some springs. Has anyone done anything like this? It seems like it would be super easy but getting my napkin idea into a full fledged 3d model and getting one made has been a hurdle. I emailed a couple of places that make "prototypes" but haven't heard back. Am I putting the cart ahead of the horse?

[Geraldsh]

Originally Posted by indes

I have an invention in mind that I would like to prototype. It's pretty simple and the prototype would be made of plastic and it would need some springs. Has anyone done anything like this? It seems like it would be super easy but getting my napkin idea into a full fledged 3d model and getting one made has been a hurdle. I emailed a couple of places that make "prototypes" but haven't heard back. Am I putting the cart ahead of the horse?

I would try a mock up made in cardboard or wood or modelling clay first. If it looks like it will actually work then find a 3D printer for a more precise prototype. When that works, complete with springs, look for a manufacturer to make a small run. When they sell contract a larger run(in China?!?) and think about a patent.

Document ever step.

[photon]

Depending on your experience with drafting or drawing or computer programs Fusion 360 can be a pretty accessible application (or at least I found it accessible but I have some experience in drafting and CAD) that you could design your prototype in in the computer and then printing it becomes a lot easier.

[fotze2]

Weird question and I don't even know who to ask. I work for a private company head office in the US. I believe looking to possibly go public or sell at some point in the future. I got some shares granted that I assume they are worthless at this point. Am I on the hook for any liability or anything. I just have zero expertise in the finance world. No one just gives you something without a downside. I don't even know what I'm asking.

[Titan2]

Originally Posted by fotze2

Weird question and I don't even know who to ask. I work for a private company head office in the US. I believe looking to possibly go public or sell at some point in the future. I got some shares granted that I assume they are worthless at this point. Am I on the hook for any liability or anything. I just have zero expertise in the finance world. No one just gives you something without a downside. I don't even know what I'm asking.

Why were they granted? As part of your compensation or a bonus? Does your employment contract contemplate participation in share issues of any type?

Did you get a letter regarding them? Are they actual certificates or a transfer to your investment account?

You have no risk in owning these. If you think they may get sold or go public they could be worth something. (Insert obligatory Locke level joke: Transfer them to me and I will hold onto them for you...)

Do they indicate if they have voting rights or are they non-voting? Depending on the class of shares they will have different rights which will impact their value.

They are likely not worthless but very illiquid, meaning difficult to sell until something happens like a sale or ipo. In a sale, it will contemplate all outstanding shares and they will be bought from you and you will get cash or cash and shares of the buyer or just shares of the buyer. If an IPO then these may be converted to shares that are then tradeable on the market.

Definitely hold onto them.

[Titan2]

Originally Posted by surferguy

**cracks knuckles**

My process is simple, its mineral oil. Personally I have a big Rubbermaid of the stuff and all new boards I have take a 24hr bath in it. Its likely overkill but its just how my timing works as I build. Different species will soak up more oil depending on the porosity of their grains. Your Ikea board is likely birch which would be similar to a maple but not dense.

Your board is likely in need of a refresh. Soaking it is your best path forward for anything that is beyond a "topical refresh"

Topical refresh: This is where your wood wax comes in (mineral oil and beeswax combo). After I soak my boards, I let them dry out/drain for a day before I coat them in the wood wax conditioner. This is a topical treatment, as in it creates an envelope film on the outside of the board. Basically a cream the consistency of butter.

The idea is that it will mush that wax down into any open pore creating a barrier for water/stuff to penetrate. This will break down over time as you wash your board/use it. This is where it is imperative to reapply to keep your board looking fresh and protected. Apply liberally, let it stand for 10/15 mins, buff it off with a paper towel. You are ready to go.

Washing your board: Use soap and water. Never let in soak, never put it in the dishwasher. After washing towel dry it immediately and put it on edge to let it finish drying. Leaving it flat can lead to warping or humping (snicker).

My recommendations. Grab a bottle of mineral oil from shoppers or superstore and find a pan or container that you can best soak your board in. Keep it slathered in oil as best as possible for 24 hrs if you can. Use a sponge to slop on the oil and turn it over every time, just try and keep the surface wet as best as possible.

Once that is done, let the board dry out. Then get some wood wax and apply as described above. When that process is complete you are ready to go!

Reach out to me and I can give you one of my tins of wood wax.

I hadn't heard the recommendation that Geraldish has above about a conditioning schedule but I like it and it certainly wouldn't be bad for your board. I will probably start recommending that to my client going forward.

Regarding Walrus and other topicals that you can buy, they will for sure work but they are more expensive and are basically the same thing. Keep it simple and your boards should last a long time.

Hopefully that covers everything. Feel free to respond if you have more questions or if I overlooked anything in my process.

Happy conditioning!

Delivered in spades as anticipated. Thanks Surferguy!

[Titan2]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

It sounds like the sous vide technique for mineral oil is intended to speed up surferguy's concept of a 24 hour soak. Sous vide for 24 hours though, I don't know if that would end up being a weird "issue" where there's so much oil in the wood that oil would just constantly keep seeping out of the wood later on like a damp sponge (if it indeed soaks up twice as much). The technique could work for scenarios where the wood is thick and harder for the oil to penetrate.


My piggyback question. The mineral oil/beeswax combo can be recommended regardless of situation for basically any wood board situation, right?



I was wondering the same thing about heat. I don't know if it helps the mineral oil, but I could see a scenario where heat perhaps improves the wax coating.

A poster had a similar question but dude said once it was 'dry' it did not ooze oil,

[fotze2]

Originally Posted by Titan2

Why were they granted? As part of your compensation or a bonus? Does your employment contract contemplate participation in share issues of any type?

Did you get a letter regarding them? Are they actual certificates or a transfer to your investment account?

You have no risk in owning these. If you think they may get sold or go public they could be worth something. (Insert obligatory Locke level joke: Transfer them to me and I will hold onto them for you...)

Do they indicate if they have voting rights or are they non-voting? Depending on the class of shares they will have different rights which will impact their value.

They are likely not worthless but very illiquid, meaning difficult to sell until something happens like a sale or ipo. In a sale, it will contemplate all outstanding shares and they will be bought from you and you will get cash or cash and shares of the buyer or just shares of the buyer. If an IPO then these may be converted to shares that are then tradeable on the market.

Definitely hold onto them.

I assume it’s part of compensation after x months at work.

No accounts or certificates or anything just an email from the vp with a 20
Page legal document that I can’t slog through. Said B class shares? Dafuq what that means? I’ll obviously keep them as I don’t even see them. Probably just a lottery ticket worth $50 some day.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by Titan2

A poster had a similar question but dude said once it was 'dry' it did not ooze oil,

I guess I'll be giving it a try when I get a chance to go and buy mineral oil.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by fotze2

Weird question and I don't even know who to ask. I work for a private company head office in the US. I believe looking to possibly go public or sell at some point in the future. I got some shares granted that I assume they are worthless at this point. Am I on the hook for any liability or anything. I just have zero expertise in the finance world. No one just gives you something without a downside. I don't even know what I'm asking.

Well, you will likely have a little bit of homework to do and information to compile and keep on hand to make sure you have the appropriate ACB on these shares when you ultimately dispose of them. You shouldn't get screwed by owning these, it's the opposite.

Foreign (to Canada) private company shares aiming for an IPO, it's going to get a bit weird, so make it easier on your tax preparer for a future tax filing. The situation I ran into, there was 3/4 of an inch of paperwork for an employment situation that lasted less than 10 months, to get the appropriate information for the ACB of the swapped shares.

- Any contractual shred of paper that mentions who, what, when, where, why and how you'll end up with these private company shares. (ie: Your employment contract and other docs)
- Details, dates, investment statements, potentially employment slips (if the US company issues you a T4) for the value you received as compensation for these shares (depends if straight shares, ESO or RSU etc.)
- If share swap when company goes public/gets acquired, every shred of paper that discusses what is going on with your shares. (Sometimes Compushare swaps with no investment statement in between)
- Perhaps information that facilitates keeping track of the value of shares based on the weighted average method if there might be a plan to sell shares, but not the entirety of your holdings (hard to randomly sell private company shares anyways). You also might not want to just rely on date you received shares at FX rate, because in some situations, the value showing up on the T4 slip for the ESO/RSU was higher than that calculation and/or the investment statements (ACB calculated too low, thus double pay taxes on that portion of error).

[fotze2]

Thanks. No I know what I’m talking about but way less than before your info.

[Titan2]

Originally Posted by fotze2

I assume it’s part of compensation after x months at work.

No accounts or certificates or anything just an email from the vp with a 20
Page legal document that I can’t slog through. Said B class shares? Dafuq what that means? I’ll obviously keep them as I don’t even see them. Probably just a lottery ticket worth $50 some day.

Class B is likely non-voting. It is a way to dividend out to employees if the Board chooses to do so. Pay attention if the company announces earnings (unlikely for a private) or announces a dividend. I would assume DF would say any dividend income has to be brought to the attention of your accountant annually. Realistically, you are hoping for a buyout or IPO. Like DF said be sure to keep any info you receive about them. You should probably show the document to your financial advisor so they are aware as well. I could look at it and tell you what it means but that may be crossing the big invisible line in the internet. Obviously, Locke would be able to let you know as well as you have an existing relationship with him. I think he prefers if it is written in crayon but he can probably power through.