The Home Improvement Thread

[Titan2]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

I had this. My electrician laughed at me for thinking it was a useless switch and then demonstrated how it works to me by submitting his guess as to what it did. It controlled an outlet outside above the door. He plugged in a testing light and it turned off an on with a flick of the switch.

What's the point of a switch you can control outside that's 10 ft up? Christmas lights.

I had a ton of other switches I had no clue what they did. Then I realized they were for outlets. So for instance, they could plug in a lamp at a specific outlet and then turn it off at the switch without going all the way to the lamp. I pulled up some pics of the house before my refresh and I realized some switches went to outlets on the wall because there used to be display lights that plugged into those outlets and illuminated a painting below it.


I don't think you can randomly have dead switches or switches that aren't connected to anything (ie: It's not safe, might be against code etc.). I think one of the first things for you to do is to figure out what the switches do is figuring out the logic of the people of the era of the build. After that, it's figuring out if the switches are live and then wandering around to figure out where it possibly could end up. Look for "dead outlets" in your house and then see if the "useless switches" cause the outlets to suddenly have power. An electrician would basically be doing the same thing, but perhaps might have a better idea for a guess, but you'd have to pay them for that. Another thing to do is figure out if there's a really thin slider which is a dimmer slider on the switch. I had some of those as well and some of the sliders were reversed (slide up for dim and down for bright and vice versa). Move them to the middle instead of assuming top or bottom. The switches look almost identical to a normal switch, but has a 1mm line to the side where the slider sits.

I will re-investigate the Christmas lights switch. Although, then there is not a switch for the doorway light at the door, which I thought was code. There are a number of "display" things in the house so that could be a possibility. The lamp thing is also a good idea. The rooms that do have dimmers are quite obvious and the mystery ones don't have dimmers. Thanks for the thoughts though.

[Lubicon]

Originally Posted by Titan2

My new house has two switches by the front door. There are small hallways leading away from the door and each has a switch that controls the light above the door. The light at the door turns on the outdoor light and ... nothing. I assume there is a wiring issue and that it should turn on the light at the door as well. Is it common to have a 3-way (hehe) switch? How can I figure out what the problem is with the switch past taking off the plate and checking the wires?

Also, we have a nunber of mystery swithches throughout the house. How can we find out what these control? Am I into hiring an electrician territory?

If one of them is in the kitchen near the sink it might be a switch for a garburator.

[MoneyGuy]

When do you run your home air purifiers? I like to run ours when the air-quality index is 3/4, but my wife thinks it should run constantly regardless of the air quality.

[topfiverecords]

Originally Posted by MoneyGuy

When do you run your home air purifiers? I like to run ours when the air-quality index is 3/4, but my wife thinks it should run constantly regardless of the air quality.

Mine runs 24/7. Keeps the dust down and creates a bit of white noise to block out the sounds of annoying children.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by MoneyGuy

When do you run your home air purifiers? I like to run ours when the air-quality index is 3/4, but my wife thinks it should run constantly regardless of the air quality.

What type is it? If it's as stand alone pure filtration unit, I don't see the point to run it constantly, especially if you keep it in the same spot. But if it's one that can sanitize (ie: blue light), then sure, 24/7.

When the air quality index is bad, I'll temporarily swap to some higher merv filters for a few days instead of using the cheapest filters for my furnace. I'll do the same if renos. Basically whenever I want to temporarily prevent dust and stuff getting into my furnace.

[Torture]

Originally Posted by MoneyGuy

When do you run your home air purifiers? I like to run ours when the air-quality index is 3/4, but my wife thinks it should run constantly regardless of the air quality.

Mine (BlueAir) all have three levels and I run on the lowest setting all the time, which is essentially silent. If air quality is trash I turn it up as needed.

The main floor purifier also has a sensor and automatically turns itself up when it senses more particulate matter. Most of the time it runs on the lowest setting but will occasionally see it turn itself up to the max, usually when I'm burning something on the stove.

[Shazam]

I find MERV 6 filters are sufficient to stop forest fire smells and particulate.

I have portable filters (Winix) that are always on due to the rabbit.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by Shazam

I find MERV 6 filters are sufficient to stop forest fire smells and particulate.

I have portable filters (Winix) that are always on due to the rabbit.

Yeah, I get 6 for particulates, smoke and pollen. I'll occasionally get a Merv 11 to run for a day or two in an attempt to clear the air if everyone was sick.

[CorsiHockeyLeague]

Does anyone have any suggestions as to a home inspector who can come in and check if I have a moisture issue, etc? I am basically having everything inspected before winter as my house is getting close to 10 years old now, and I want to make sure there isn't anything I need to be dealing with.

[photon]

What would the ballpark be on replacing a corner tub with a shower? Take out the tub and related framing, tile the whole thing and put in some shower heads, maybe a built in bench, etc.

EDIT: Also there's a window which we'd probably want to replace.. glass blocks I guess but I'd still want an option to reduce the light since it's a pretty big window.. I've seen some kind of glass that darkens with a switch, or maybe a window with the blind in between the panes of glass? Anyone done anything like that?

[Bagor]

Corner bathtub? You talking a 60 x 30 tub or a tub that runs along 2 walls?

[photon]

Yeah a corner bathtub, probably 55 or 60" each side I'd have to measure. Something like this:



The corner it's in are exterior walls, on the right is a wall and on the left there's the counter.

[Bagor]

So you're ripping out tub and support structure.

Then you're framing the area off in a square/rectangle shape (to the ceiling I presume?) and plumbing in a couple of shower heads then tile. Extractor fan?

Entrance by glass doors I presume?

[Locke]

Originally Posted by Titan2

My new house has two switches by the front door. There are small hallways leading away from the door and each has a switch that controls the light above the door. The light at the door turns on the outdoor light and ... nothing. I assume there is a wiring issue and that it should turn on the light at the door as well. Is it common to have a 3-way (hehe) switch? How can I figure out what the problem is with the switch past taking off the plate and checking the wires?

Also, we have a nunber of mystery swithches throughout the house. How can we find out what these control? Am I into hiring an electrician territory?

I wouldn't worry about it.

When I worked in construction I installed switch panels all over the place that weren't connected to anything.

1. Because I knew it'd drive people crazy.
2. Because I'm not now nor ever have been an electrician.
3. I can be occasionally malicious.

[Wormius]

Mystery switches might be for interior or exterior outlets.

[photon]

Originally Posted by Bagor

So you're ripping out tub and support structure.

Then you're framing the area off in a square/rectangle shape (to the ceiling I presume?) and plumbing in a couple of shower heads then tile. Extractor fan?

Entrance by glass doors I presume?

Pretty much, though I don't think we'd actually frame any more and would use glass and retain the triangle (pentagonal?) shape. Though I guess considering it we could do some framing too and could go rectangular, or rectangle with a diagonal for the door. I guess I should take some pictures and/or do a floor plan before I get too far.

We already have a smaller standup shower so there's an extractor fan nearby already. I plan to repurpose that shower area for a space for an infrared sauna.

Yeah as much glass as possible.

I've also seen pictures of glass and metal shower surrounds put on an existing jetted tub which I guess would be cheaper but definitely not as convenient.

If I replace the window and have to retile the whole bathroom this feels like it's getting close to $10k really fast.

[Shazam]

Originally Posted by photon

What would the ballpark be on replacing a corner tub with a shower? Take out the tub and related framing, tile the whole thing and put in some shower heads, maybe a built in bench, etc.

EDIT: Also there's a window which we'd probably want to replace.. glass blocks I guess but I'd still want an option to reduce the light since it's a pretty big window.. I've seen some kind of glass that darkens with a switch, or maybe a window with the blind in between the panes of glass? Anyone done anything like that?

I redid my ensuite a few years, made the giant tub into a regular tub, made the existing shower much bigger, tiled everything, new vanity, lighting. Cost around $27K back in 2018 IIRC.

For the window you can get a regular window and apply window film for privacy. I would never get a blind inbetween the panes - they're guaranteed to break.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by photon

Pretty much, though I don't think we'd actually frame any more and would use glass and retain the triangle (pentagonal?) shape. Though I guess considering it we could do some framing too and could go rectangular, or rectangle with a diagonal for the door. I guess I should take some pictures and/or do a floor plan before I get too far.

We already have a smaller standup shower so there's an extractor fan nearby already. I plan to repurpose that shower area for a space for an infrared sauna.

Yeah as much glass as possible.

I've also seen pictures of glass and metal shower surrounds put on an existing jetted tub which I guess would be cheaper but definitely not as convenient.

If I replace the window and have to retile the whole bathroom this feels like it's getting close to $10k really fast.

Opaque film or cafe styled blinds are probably the best options for what you're aiming for.

If you have the ability to look under the tub, I'd recommend you consider the possibility of redoing the whole drywall and replace it all with moisture resistant drywall sheets. I have a similar situation and the drywall doesn't go all the way to the floor. It's exposed insulation with clear plastic over top inside the tub area for my situation. I don't understand why the walls weren't fully finished before the tub went in. The cabinets in the vanity are not like this. If you might have to do some drywall stuff anyways, I'd just recommend redoing it all properly. But if your drywall does go to the floor, I'd still recommend checking if it's moisture resistant stuff if the shower is in that area. Doing that extra drywall step might save you extra headaches later on.

But yeah, you might want to do some floor plan work to see if it makes sense to increase/restrict the scope of the project. I'd assume a shower/tub combo on the other side of the bathroom makes more sense than a shower by the window. I'd consider other things with that corner space by the windows once the tub is out. I think you're looking at $30K+ depending on scope creep. It also depends whether you finish the bathroom space first then add/assemble a infrared sauna in the bathroom in a reasonable sized open space left in the bathroom for it vs assembling one early and doing renos around it (not what I'd recommend). Kinda like renoing a kitchen to accommodate a weird sized fridge which will handcuff your options later on vs building a slot for a standard/oversized fridge and it retains flexibility for later on.

[Fuzz]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

Opaque film or cafe styled blinds are probably the best options for what you're aiming for.

If you have the ability to look under the tub, I'd recommend you consider the possibility of redoing the whole drywall and replace it all with moisture resistant drywall sheets. I have a similar situation and the drywall doesn't go all the way to the floor. It's exposed insulation with clear plastic over top inside the tub area for my situation. I don't understand why the walls weren't fully finished before the tub went in. The cabinets in the vanity are not like this. If you might have to do some drywall stuff anyways, I'd just recommend redoing it all properly. But if your drywall does go to the floor, I'd still recommend checking if it's moisture resistant stuff if the shower is in that area. Doing that extra drywall step might save you extra headaches later on.

But yeah, you might want to do some floor plan work to see if it makes sense to increase/restrict the scope of the project. I'd assume a shower/tub combo on the other side of the bathroom makes more sense than a shower by the window. I'd consider other things with that corner space by the windows once the tub is out. I think you're looking at $30K+ depending on scope creep. It also depends whether you finish the bathroom space first then add/assemble a infrared sauna in the bathroom in a reasonable sized open space left in the bathroom for it vs assembling one early and doing renos around it (not what I'd recommend). Kinda like renoing a kitchen to accommodate a weird sized fridge which will handcuff your options later on vs building a slot for a standard/oversized fridge and it retains flexibility for later on.

This is how they are done. The tub lip screws directly into the stud, you wouldn't want drywall there. If you had drywall below, well, no one would see it, and it could be a board collecting mold and moisture.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by Fuzz

This is how they are done. The tub lip screws directly into the stud, you wouldn't want drywall there. If you had drywall below, well, no one would see it, and it could be a board collecting mold and moisture.

Unless the contractor work was shoddy, I've seen moisture resistant drywall to the floor behind a tub before. But that was inner wall.

Your logic does make sense though. I did wonder if the drywall situation was because the tub was screwed to a wall that is outside on the other side (higher chance of condensation) vs an inner wall.