The Home Improvement Thread

[Fuzz]

Ya, I did the same as Opendoor.

[sa226]

It really depends on your backerboard.

I've worked with Wedi and it's instructions were to cut a notch at the bottom of the board so that it would fit over the flange while remaining flush with the studs.

I've only used Kerdi board in showers, but you could probably notch it as well, im not sure what it's instructions are though, for tubs.

I've never used kerdi membrane.

I really wish in Canada we had access to more options for tile backerboard. It's basically schluter roll on membrane in the big box stores, or very expensive Wedi if sourced from a tile store.

I like the weight of Kerdi, but the thinset application is annoying. Wedi is heavier, with a foam core, but it's membrane is a heavy, really tough resin that is more difficult to work with, but it's caulking style application is great.

Wedi is kind of geared towards the pros because you can tile same day.

[Fuzz]

I used this for backer board. Easy to cut, light weight, price was good.


https://www.rona.ca/en/product/certa...55307-09935111

[Bagor]

Originally Posted by opendoor

Though thinking about it, I'm not even sure how you'd do #2 or #3 in my installs. The flange sat flush against the studs and was about 1/4-3/8 thick. So if the backerboard overlapped the flange, it'd be bent out at the bottom unless I cut away at the back of the board or something. Unless you fur the studs out to be flush with the flange.

Yeah, basically if the existing studs aren't already flush with the flange I'll screw in some old 2x4s to the existing studs to bring it flush. The tub's flange would say is 1/4" out max which is pretty negligible.

Using Denshield from HD.

One of these things I can't find a consistent answer for. One before this was bath to shower conversions with the Costco pan and glass doors kit (which I would totally recommend) and "nearly" sure instructions were to overlap flange.

[Maritime Q-Scout]

Thoughts on putting soundproof insulation behind an interior wall that will have a tv on it?

Same as the ceiling.

Does it really make a difference?

[Ozy_Flame]

Sonopan makes a big difference. I put it behind my laundry room walls. However, I also used 5/8" drywall and safe and sound insulation. I can't hear a peep.

[You Need a Thneed]

After about 7 or so years of having a downstairs bathroom with no ceiling (exposed joists and plumbing), I finally got my acoustic ceiling in last week. In some places, I had about an inch total clearance between the top of the cabinet doors that need to open, and the underside of the ductwork - so was limited to using wafer lights in the tiles.

Of course, I forgot about the very rarely used ensuite tub upstairs, for which I need to reseal the drain, and now I already need to replace a tile.

[iggy_oi]

Anybody recently purchase a garage building kit? I have a 20x21 pad poured that I’m considering finally building a garage on but it’s hard to find kit prices online so I’m just trying to get an idea of how much the materials themselves cost. Not looking to do anything too fancy just your standard garage. TIA

[Fuzz]

You really have to go in and tell them what you want, but you can get a quick estimate without too many details. You just need basic dimensions, door size, windows. It's worth the upgrade for 2x6 walls, I think it cost me an extra $700 for much bigger than yours. It makes building it easier because the wood tends to be straighter, and if you ever do insulate you can get more insulation in 2x6's. And pay for the better insulated door if that is ever a consideration.

[PaperBagger'14]

Originally Posted by iggy_oi

Anybody recently purchase a garage building kit? I have a 20x21 pad poured that I’m considering finally building a garage on but it’s hard to find kit prices online so I’m just trying to get an idea of how much the materials themselves cost. Not looking to do anything too fancy just your standard garage. TIA

This is gonna be old info for sure but I bought my last garage kit about 10 years ago through Rona. The kit itself was about $5500 for a 22x22 so that cost has gone up significantly.

The kit included all of the wood framing and pre fabbed roof trusses (2x4 for mine), 1 man door, 2 windows, insulation, and I think the garage door but not the opener. My memory is a bit fuzzy on that part.

Other things I purchased aside from that is all the electrical components (sub panel, conduit, wire, breakers), I also had a gas line ran to the garage and a heater installed, as well as a data conduit for a TV and speaker system in the back yard. I also had to buy my own siding, soffit and fascia and gutters.

I did all the work myself except for the concrete pad, the overhead door and the gas heater and all in it was probably $16000 but about 10 years ago. I also worked my bag off over a summer to do it.

I also put a nail through my foot because my buddy chucked a 2x4 on the ground and it landed nail side up. That hurt lol.

[iggy_oi]

Thanks for the responses. I’m assuming that nowadays it’s probably gonna be around $10K for just the kit.

[Fuzz]

One suggestion thinking back is that when you order the "kit" it all shows up on pallets. This is fine, except when it comes to shingling you need to schlep them up yourself. The default I think is also the cheepest shingles you can buy, and it's always worth going to the architectural ones(which you can do at the time, too). So I'd ask them to leave them off, then buy them when you are ready and have them delivered to your roof, which is totally worth the fee unless you have a firefighter buddy who loves to haul stuff up ladders(I lucked out!). Those shingle bundles are heavy.

[BlackArcher101]

Originally Posted by Fuzz

One suggestion thinking back is that when you order the "kit" it all shows up on pallets. This is fine, except when it comes to shingling you need to schlep them up yourself. The default I think is also the cheepest shingles you can buy, and it's always worth going to the architectural ones(which you can do at the time, too). So I'd ask them to leave them off, then buy them when you are ready and have them delivered to your roof, which is totally worth the fee unless you have a firefighter buddy who loves to haul stuff up ladders(I lucked out!). Those shingle bundles are heavy.

Which company will deliver to the roof for you? I've been looking and all seem to need me to be a roofing business now.

[Fuzz]

Originally Posted by BlackArcher101

Which company will deliver to the roof for you? I've been looking and all seem to need me to be a roofing business now.

I did my house roof last summer and Roofmart(north) delivered. I don't remember the extra fee but I can say whatever it was, it was worth it.

[Titan2]

No clay jokes. I guess we are done with that now? Shame.

[Sr. Mints]

Thanks for the toilet help, folks! I picked up two brands of gaskets then went and broke my foot and tore my knee last Tuesday, so hiring a plumber it is.

[Shazam]

A likely excuse.

[Fuzz]

Originally Posted by Sr. Mints

Thanks for the toilet help, folks! I picked up two brands of gaskets then went and broke my foot and tore my knee last Tuesday, so hiring a plumber it is.

Unclear if your attempted toilet work resulted in the injuries, or just prevent you from doing it.

[Sr. Mints]

Oh, I've played this game before. You'll have to paint the picture yourself, Sun Life informant.

[Bagor]

Opinions please.

Installing new 60" vanity in main bathroom.

Single or double sink purely from a selling pov?

Leaning strongly towards single as double doesn't look worth it for the countertop space lost.

Is double just a gimmicky thing or something that carries weight or people actually look for when buying?