Ongoing General Automotive Thread 2.0

[Locke]

I'm still in the middle of some time off after the Holidays, largely because some people did some dumb things in the building and now they have to fix them.

So I've been watching some old/bad movies.

I never realized that the Timecop car had the faux-wood paneling! Thats fantastic!

[zamler]

Atari 2600 had the best faux wood ever nothing else ever came to that level.

[Sliver]

Originally Posted by zamler

Atari 2600 had the best faux wood ever nothing else ever came to that level.

Man, my best friend in elementary had that thing in his bedroom from the time we were in grade two. Dude was living in the future with his own tv and console at such a young age in the early 80s.

[Bill Bumface]

Late to the party, but regarding rotors, I change pads without rotors all the time. You can feel the lip at the edge of the rotor to see how much it has worn. Depending on how aggressive the pads are, a rotor can easily last a couple sets of pads - especially on cars that come with rotors that aren't #### (I'm looking at you GM).

This has held up on performance cars and family haulers, never seen issues on a 2nd set of pads on the same rotor.

[Locke]

Originally Posted by Bill Bumface

Late to the party, but regarding rotors, I change pads without rotors all the time. You can feel the lip at the edge of the rotor to see how much it has worn. Depending on how aggressive the pads are, a rotor can easily last a couple sets of pads - especially on cars that come with rotors that aren't #### (I'm looking at you GM).

This has held up on performance cars and family haulers, never seen issues on a 2nd set of pads on the same rotor.

I dont know, the pads wear out the rotors and the rotors wear out the pads, it seems to make sense to replace them at the same time.

But mileage may vary, different people have different experiences. And you could have organic pads and carbon slotted rotors, I dont know.

For the very basic stuff I was always told they should be replaced simultanously.

[Fuzz]

All you need is a set of cheapo calipers, and the disc will have minimum thickness engraved on it. Measure it and see. There is no rule of thumb because all vehicles are different.

[cam_wmh]

Dollar to traction, is there anything worse for your wallet than a light duty truck?

[Locke]

Originally Posted by Bill Bumface

Late to the party, but regarding rotors, I change pads without rotors all the time. You can feel the lip at the edge of the rotor to see how much it has worn. Depending on how aggressive the pads are, a rotor can easily last a couple sets of pads - especially on cars that come with rotors that aren't #### (I'm looking at you GM).

This has held up on performance cars and family haulers, never seen issues on a 2nd set of pads on the same rotor.

At the end of the day though, we're talking about 'pads and rotors' which are essentially the most inexpensive part of the braking system.

If they'd said 'calipers' then sure, I'd agree, that wouldnt make much sense.

But pads and rotors? They literally grind themselves together to stop your vehicle and are largely inexpensive...unless you've got something huge, exotic or performance.

[zamler]

I replace rotors with pads mainly due to rust. Some cars have (or had, usually older cars) excellent rotors that lasted for decades. Now I'm pretty sure most are all churned out of the same factory using same poorly refined steel.

R1 Concepts rotors are surprisingly good.

[Bill Bumface]

Originally Posted by Locke

At the end of the day though, we're talking about 'pads and rotors' which are essentially the most inexpensive part of the braking system.

If they'd said 'calipers' then sure, I'd agree, that wouldnt make much sense.

But pads and rotors? They literally grind themselves together to stop your vehicle and are largely inexpensive...unless you've got something huge, exotic or performance.

On one of my cars it's ~$700 for new rotors - just the front. There is no way I'm doing that because "maybe" when there is less than 1mm of rotor wear after a set of pads.

If you use the same pad material as what you are replacing, the face of the rotor should be just as even as it always was. Even if you change materials, bedding them in hard means you're very very unlikely to have any squeals or issues.

I've done this probably 10 times on multiple manufacturers and never once had an issue.

The reason the dealers spec it is because if the new brakes squeal, you're coming back and now you need new rotors and new pads again to make sure you won't have an issue. This approach makes sure they have a happy, non-returning customer, and also puts some more $ in their pocket.

[cam_wmh]

Originally Posted by cam_wmh

Dollar to traction, is there anything worse for your wallet than a light duty truck?

Quoting myself, with a caveat to the new F150 Lightning, with a near 50/50 axle weight distribution.

The rest tho, suburban dad widowmakers. Without the 930 fun.

[zamler]

I've never purchased a full sized truck why are they money pits? Or you mean they are unstable and crash easily?

[81MC]

Few things from my experience.

Pads and Rotors? Pads are supposed to be the sacrificial component there. ####ty quality easily warping rotors aside, the life of a regular pad should be less than a rotor. Replacing a good OEM rotor that’s within spec for no reason is wasting money and good parts.

Zamlers right on inside/outside thing. I’ve worked with literally hundreds of the same model, same vin sequence, same general operating circumstance units; only difference was indoor heated vs outside and there was a clear, identifiable difference in body rust at end of life.

Light duty truck? ####ing awesome. My junker was $800 and you know, a bit of elbow grease and a small investment in parts has made that thing my daily driver for 3 winters now. Pretty stoked on it tbh.

[Nufy]

Originally Posted by zamler

Atari 2600 had the best faux wood ever nothing else ever came to that level.

My wife still has hers...

We keep an old CRT TV around for classic retro gaming nights.

Asteroids anyone ???

[Lubicon]

Recommendations for where to get batteries? General retailers or are there some good specialty places in Calgary?

[timun]

Unless you have an unusual battery size, just go to the usual suspects: Auto Value, Canadian Tire/Partsource, NAPA, Wal-Mart, etc.

[zamler]

These are excellent you get what you pay for
https://odysseybattery.ca/

[Locke]

Originally Posted by Bill Bumface

On one of my cars it's ~$700 for new rotors - just the front. There is no way I'm doing that because "maybe" when there is less than 1mm of rotor wear after a set of pads.

If you use the same pad material as what you are replacing, the face of the rotor should be just as even as it always was. Even if you change materials, bedding them in hard means you're very very unlikely to have any squeals or issues.

I've done this probably 10 times on multiple manufacturers and never once had an issue.

The reason the dealers spec it is because if the new brakes squeal, you're coming back and now you need new rotors and new pads again to make sure you won't have an issue. This approach makes sure they have a happy, non-returning customer, and also puts some more $ in their pocket.

Okay. Fair enough. Thats not my experience but I see where you're coming from.

Originally Posted by Lubicon

Recommendations for where to get batteries? General retailers or are there some good specialty places in Calgary?

Batteries are batteries. Go say hi to the Boys at Canadian Tire. Lol!

[MegaErtz]

Originally Posted by zamler

These are excellent you get what you pay for
https://odysseybattery.ca/

Do you know where you can buy these in Calgary?

[zamler]

Originally Posted by MegaErtz

Do you know where you can buy these in Calgary?

Direct only AFAIK.