Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducay
Well no, that's not what he's getting at. He's talking more about the fact that a standard wand wash doesn't really get it clean. Which it never really does as no wand wash will get it fully clean as they don't provide enough direct friction to remove everything. You'll need to wash it by hand or add a hand wash final step to your cleaning process to do that. Normally if it I'm using a wand wash, its more of just a clean up to get it mostly clean in between proper cleanings.
What you could do (similar to what Pylon posted) is after the wand wash, mist it with a quick detailer and then dry it. The quick detailer will act as a lubricant and surfactant to help pickup the last of the dirt when you dry. Always using a clean microfiber cloth or drying cloth, never using the same "dirty" spot twice.
But for clay bar, I'll usually do that once or twice a year when I wax.
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If his clear coat is properly waxed and maintained I'd be more inclined to agree with you but I am assuming this isn't the case.
I have always treated quick detailers as a form of maintenance in between waxing. It's great for additional protection and removing light dusting / smudges but it doesn't truly clean your clear coat / paint.
Even with handwashes using a mitt, I find that there can still be some bonded residue left on my car (namely in the rear quarter panels by the wheels and along the skirts) that won't come off easily.
Edit: I guess what I'm getting at is if your paint is showing a film of grime after a wand washing, it's probably time to give it some TLC and go the whole 9 yards (wash, clay bar, polish if needed and then wax).
