The Home Improvement Thread

[Erick Estrada]

Originally Posted by timun

The panelboard may be rated for 200 A, but only has a 100 A main breaker in it. It's not all that uncommon for panelboard rating to be higher than the main breaker; I know several people who have 100 A services, with a 100 A main breaker, but their panels are otherwise rated for 125 A or 150 A.

Yes but the poster did not bring up their main breaker. The original poster asked about upgrading their panel from 100A to 200A. I assume they would know that their panel is 100A if they are discussing upgrading it.

[kcin]

Originally Posted by Erick Estrada

Yes but the poster did not bring up their main breaker. The original poster asked about upgrading their panel from 100A to 200A. I assume they would know that their panel is 100A if they are discussing upgrading it.

I'm definitely not an electrician or handyperson inclined - all it says on the main breaker is 100A so I just assumed it's rated for 100A. All the breakers are filled and we're doing some renovations so wanted to ensure we could upgrade from a standard microwave to a convection microwave. Hoping + assuming an electrician can just swap the existing breaker for a higher amp one while ensuring everything else is good.

Also assuming would need to upgrade the panel if we wanted to add a mini-split and PHEV sometime down the road.

[Fuzz]

I know you shouldn't drink hot water from a hot water tank, but is it fine from tankless? Just thinking I'd boil water a lot quicker and more efficiently if it started at 125F.

[GGG]

Originally Posted by Fuzz

I know you shouldn't drink hot water from a hot water tank, but is it fine from tankless? Just thinking I'd boil water a lot quicker and more efficiently if it started at 125F.

That’s one of the pervasive myths that keeps coming up. It’s a theoretical risk not a practical risk.

But if the concern is corrosion product build up then tankless wouldn’t have that risk. If the concern is increased concentrations of hardness then tankless would still accumulate more as scale build up could transfer back in and result in higher concentrations of hardness

And if deoxygenating it making food taste worse then you are full of #### and no one can tell the difference.

[Bill Bumface]

Originally Posted by kcin

I'm definitely not an electrician or handyperson inclined - all it says on the main breaker is 100A so I just assumed it's rated for 100A. All the breakers are filled and we're doing some renovations so wanted to ensure we could upgrade from a standard microwave to a convection microwave. Hoping + assuming an electrician can just swap the existing breaker for a higher amp one while ensuring everything else is good.

Also assuming would need to upgrade the panel if we wanted to add a mini-split and PHEV sometime down the road.

I'm no electrician, but a panel being full doesn't necessarily mean a panel at capacity. If you have any non-slim breakers in there, you could have some options. For example, I had an electrician swap out my GFCI breakers for regular slim breakers and put these downstream just beside the panel to free up room:

[Wormius]

Follow up to the anode rod replacement. The 5 year old anode rod was not in as horrible condition as I have seen in some videos where they're replacing them. I was expecting it to be a lot worse.

It was a pain to get out from the heater - I didn't see any discernable rust, but it took a hell of a lot of effort to get that out. Anyway, it was a good experience to learn how to do it. For the time it took and $40 for the replacement rod to keep the heater in good shape it was worth it.

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[photon]

Is there anywhere in town where I could give them a list of pieces and sizes of wood and they'd cut it for me?

I've got some built in shelving that the builder did on the landing from the main floor to the upstairs and I'd like to do something similar going down except maybe taller and maybe with some doors.

Putting it together, painting, maybe doors from IKEA or something I think I and my dad can do, but it's just cutting the wood to size that I'd like to get done.

[calgarywinning]

Originally Posted by Wormius

Follow up to the anode rod replacement. The 5 year old anode rod was not in as horrible condition as I have seen in some videos where they're replacing them. I was expecting it to be a lot worse.

It was a pain to get out from the heater - I didn't see any discernable rust, but it took a hell of a lot of effort to get that out. Anyway, it was a good experience to learn how to do it. For the time it took and $40 for the replacement rod to keep the heater in good shape it was worth it.

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Number one thing you can do is buy one with an Anode rod. One that can be replaced easier. I think you have to drain the tank. You'll never burn out your tank if you can do this.

[Geraldsh]

Originally Posted by photon

Is there anywhere in town where I could give them a list of pieces and sizes of wood and they'd cut it for me?

I've got some built in shelving that the builder did on the landing from the main floor to the upstairs and I'd like to do something similar going down except maybe taller and maybe with some doors.

Putting it together, painting, maybe doors from IKEA or something I think I and my dad can do, but it's just cutting the wood to size that I'd like to get done.

The big box stores will do it for 50 cents per cut. Another option would be a woodworking club in your area.

[Sr. Mints]

Originally Posted by Geraldsh

The big box stores will do it for 50 cents per cut. Another option would be a woodworking club in your area.

you telling me I've been measuring something 17 times then ####ing it it up when I inevitably cut it wrong anyway, when I could have paid the guy at Lowes 50 cents?!

[Geraldsh]

Due to inflation the price may have risen my last visit.

[Wormius]

Originally Posted by calgarywinning

Number one thing you can do is buy one with an Anode rod. One that can be replaced easier. I think you have to drain the tank. You'll never burn out your tank if you can do this.

I think they are all pretty standard as far as their removal goes; I was just expecting it to require a little less elbow grease to loosen it. This ended up being a 2-person job (one person to loosen, and another to keep the water tank from shifting around). I imagine an impact driver would have been a better tool to have instead of a breaker bar.

[Ironhorse]

Originally Posted by Geraldsh

The big box stores will do it for 50 cents per cut. Another option would be a woodworking club in your area.

I once needed a whole bunch of cabinet grade plywood ripped into various strips and lengths for a project I was doing. I drew it all up and then just paid Windsor Plywood half an hour of shop time to cut it all in their wood shop (bought the birch plywood there also). Much better than at Home Depot.

[speede5]

Originally Posted by Wormius

I think they are all pretty standard as far as their removal goes; I was just expecting it to require a little less elbow grease to loosen it. This ended up being a 2-person job (one person to loosen, and another to keep the water tank from shifting around). I imagine an impact driver would have been a better tool to have instead of a breaker bar.

My plumber used an impact, no issues at all.

[photon]

Hm ok maybe I'll try Windsor, my dad probably already has the drawings and a cut list.

[Shazam]

Originally Posted by Wormius

Follow up to the anode rod replacement. The 5 year old anode rod was not in as horrible condition as I have seen in some videos where they're replacing them. I was expecting it to be a lot worse.

It was a pain to get out from the heater - I didn't see any discernable rust, but it took a hell of a lot of effort to get that out. Anyway, it was a good experience to learn how to do it. For the time it took and $40 for the replacement rod to keep the heater in good shape it was worth it.

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That thing's not even close to done.

[Wormius]

Originally Posted by Shazam

That thing's not even close to done.

Funnily, I thought since it was a nice day I’d open up the garage and take the cordless drill and some wire bristle attachment to see what the bare rod looked like. Not great. Kind of like swiss cheese.

[Bill Bumface]

I'm really curious to check the anode in my tank, but it's ~15 years old. I assume I should let this sleeping dog lie?

[fotze2]

Originally Posted by Bill Bumface

I'm really curious to check the anode in my tank, but it's ~15 years old. I assume I should let this sleeping dog lie?

How does one check the tank with such a freakishly large skeleton wrapped in a translucent skin?

[Fuzz]

Originally Posted by Bill Bumface

I'm really curious to check the anode in my tank, but it's ~15 years old. I assume I should let this sleeping dog lie?

I could never get my anode out, tried everything. The plumber who installed my new unit said he gave up on them, as the bolt is so tight. He said he switched to using combo anode rods, which integrate with the hot water outlet, so they are easy to get in and out.


But at 15 years, you are better to replace the tank before it leaks like mine did! It was 16 years old, and I told myself I'd do it at 15! Don't regret it like Fuzz.