I recommend the AIRTHINGS radon detector. On sale on Amazon for about half the price of the one you linked above and works great. You leave it in a room for however long you want to test for, and then you can reset it and do another room if you want. Much better than the mail-in tests imo.
EDIT: same one linked by Dentoman
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A word of warning -- the UofC did a study a few years back and the "short term" testing isn't accurate; it is recommended that you do longer term testing (because it can fluctuate from day-to-day): https://ucalgary.ca/news/ucalgary-re...n-gas-exposure
Also, I read that testing in the winter months is better because your house is "sealed" up versus in the summer when you might have more windows open, etc.
A word of warning -- the UofC did a study a few years back and the "short term" testing isn't accurate; it is recommended that you do longer term testing (because it can fluctuate from day-to-day): https://ucalgary.ca/news/ucalgary-re...n-gas-exposure
Also, I read that testing in the winter months is better because your house is "sealed" up versus in the summer when you might have more windows open, etc.
Yep, did the 5 month from the Lung Association over a winter at my old place and going to do it again now this winter at my new place. Then I’ll borrow my friends tester just for a bit to get a second value to compare.
A word of warning -- the UofC did a study a few years back and the "short term" testing isn't accurate; it is recommended that you do longer term testing (because it can fluctuate from day-to-day): https://ucalgary.ca/news/ucalgary-re...n-gas-exposure
Also, I read that testing in the winter months is better because your house is "sealed" up versus in the summer when you might have more windows open, etc.
Yes the threshold levels are based on average exposure over a long period of time. You should test over at least 3 months (not short-term readings) and over the winter.
My home was built with a roughed in Radon mitigation tube. I wonder if a remediation company would grumble about it not being done right, or super pleased that builders are getting with the program.
I guess I'll buy a tester and see what happens. Then sell it to one of you scallywags depending on the results.
My home was built with a roughed in Radon mitigation tube. I wonder if a remediation company would grumble about it not being done right, or super pleased that builders are getting with the program.
I guess I'll buy a tester and see what happens. Then sell it to one of you scallywags depending on the results.
Builders have to get with the program. Rough ins are required by code now.
I've never tested for radon but now you guys are freaking me out. Which test should I get?
Is the risk lower in an old house? For some reason, I thought radon was a new-build problem. My house is from the 50's and I never even considered radon testing until now.
Its more likely to be lower because older houses are much more "leaky" than modern energy efficient homes. Increased air circulation helps alot for dissipating the radon gas concentration.
In terms of actual cancer risk, the radon gas concentration is also only half the story, because it is also strongly tied to the amount of small particles floating in the air. When radon gas decays, it creates solid daughter progeny that now stick to air particulates, and these are the main vector into your lungs. If you diminish air particulate matter, you are also diminishing your cancer risk. Changing your furnace air filters regularily, disposing of dander producing pets, and/or running air purifiers in those basement bedrooms should theoretically help.
The particulate side of the equation is one of the main reasons for the variability/lack of agreement in recommended 'safe' levels of radon gas between the different agencies - they are trying to peg it to solely to radon concentration while making their own blanket estimate on air particulate density.
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It fluctuates daily with barometric pressure variances and as long as the average is below 200 you are okay. We have had peak measurements of 887 Bq/m3. Clearly we have to get something done with a kid sleeping downstairs but it's one of those things where I wouldn't have even checked if the kind fella at work didn't ask if I wanted to give it a try.
These levels are extremely dangerous for everyone living in the house and you should have it mitigated asap. It is a lot cheaper and simpler than people are led to believe. A couple of holes drilled in the basement floor and proper exhaust piping out; that's all it takes. If you need a reference for a good honest installer, PM me.
For the measurement device, this one is universally recommended by professionals. It used to be called Corentium and it was made in Norway. Now I see that the name has changed to Airthings, but it looks to be the same tester.
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Its more likely to be lower because older houses are much more "leaky" than modern energy efficient homes. Increased air circulation helps alot for dissipating the radon gas concentration.
In terms of actual cancer risk, the radon gas concentration is also only half the story, because it is also strongly tied to the amount of small particles floating in the air. When radon gas decays, it creates solid daughter progeny that now stick to air particulates, and these are the main vector into your lungs. If you diminish air particulate matter, you are also diminishing your cancer risk. Changing your furnace air filters regularily, disposing of dander producing pets, and/or running air purifiers in those basement bedrooms should theoretically help.
The particulate side of the equation is one of the main reasons for the variability/lack of agreement in recommended 'safe' levels of radon gas between the different agencies - they are trying to peg it to solely to radon concentration while making their own blanket estimate on air particulate density.
Sliver intesifies.
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our neighbor across the street had high radon readings so i bought the airthings monitor with the thought - i could wait 3 months for a proper test or know in about a week if it was high enough to be worried - came back above 600. the house was new so we were roughed in for radon- although the builder could have had some more forethought about where they put the pipe. at the time our neighbors got a $2k quote ( even when roughed in) and we didn't have the cash so i did it myself for about $500. Monitor is now below 50 at all times fan has been running good for 2 1/2 years. our neighbors right next door was under 150 - so it varies widely between houses
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I had mine tested and it came back about 230. I figured for peace of mind, I'd do it. After the installation, I got readings around 10-14 consistently. That's with the electronic reader, plus the actual test sent out to the lab. I think it's worth it if you can afford it.
If you do decide to do it, I'm going to plug my guy Colin from Radon Reduction (radonreduction.ca). He does a very good job, drilling into my concrete floor, sealing all the cracks, and piping it out the side of my house. I got mine installed for $1,900 all in, including a follow up test. He even lent me an electronic radon test for 6 weeks while I waited for your test. Top notch service, and guy is super punctual.
First thing I would do is make sure sump pump and sanitary pump are properly sealed. Often they aren't. Your biggest source of higher in home levels will come from those two. As part of the radon mitigation process, they do seal both. Newer construction probably required installion of a passive system when the property was built, which will also help dissipate higher levels, maybe. Or opening basement windows. Furnaces that draw outside air help too.
Also remember "safe" levels in US are 20% lower in US and twice as high elsewhere. So the science isn't exact.
That one has Bluetooth, but not Wifi looks like. The View model has Wifi, but at twice the price that's not really worth it to me. The View Plus looks cool since it monitors a bunch of other things too.
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That one has Bluetooth, but not Wifi looks like. The View model has Wifi, but at twice the price that's not really worth it to me. The View Plus looks cool since it monitors a bunch of other things too.
Yeah the one I have is Bluetooth which makes it kind of useless when trying to track levels when not at home. The guy that lent it to me lamented not paying extra for Wifi. I'll be getting a Wifi one.
Because long term readings are more important, you don’t need Bluetooth or wifi. You literally just look at the thing every few months. There is absolutely no reason to have a radon detector with smart functionality.
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