The Winter's Coming Winter Tires Thread

[Ducay]

Originally Posted by powderjunkie

Also, 225/65r17 should be a fine downsize from 235/60r18, yes?

https://tiresize.com/calculator/

Best site for looking at options, shows you how far off things are in size and all the options available in different rim sizes. That swap out would be passable, but getting up there in terms of difference (2.1%), some closer options out there (Believe 3% is kinda the high end of what to allow, given it throws off your reported speed). Great site tho

Originally Posted by powderjunkie

Debating between Bridgestone Blizzak WS90 and DMV2s for a 2016 Kia Sedona...both are a pretty good deal on blackcircles right now.

Ya they're so damn similar that I honestly don't think you'd notice a difference between the two; let alone a material difference. I'd go based on price once I have a specific size in mind. Said it before, but between any of the Blizzak options, Michelin xICE options, Hakkas, and VikingContacts, you're going to have a great tire. You could blow your brains out between reviews/comparisons but they're all going to be quite similar and well performing and I'd go based on price between those options.

[Hemi-Cuda]

Originally Posted by Ducay

Ya they're so damn similar that I honestly don't think you'd notice a difference between the two; let alone a material difference. I'd go based on price once I have a specific size in mind. Said it before, but between any of the Blizzak options, Michelin xICE options, Hakkas, and VikingContacts, you're going to have a great tire. You could blow your brains out between reviews/comparisons but they're all going to be quite similar and well performing and I'd go based on price between those options.

Vehicle type plays a big role too. Years ago I had Nokains on a Mazda 3 (FWD), and then eventually went X-Ice because they were cheaper. Braking response was pretty similar, but there was a noticeable downgrade when starting from a dead stop on snow or ice. On a heavier AWD vehicle like an SUV I doubt that difference would be so big

[Sliver]

This weather is BS. I want to put my new Blizzaks to the test already.

[Nufy]

Originally Posted by powderjunkie

Also, 225/65r17 should be a fine downsize from 235/60r18, yes?

These are different rim sizes.

Be sure the smaller ones will fit over your brake calipers.

[WhiteTiger]

Got my car back with her winter tires on yesterday. I'm ready for snow! ;D

[TorqueDog]

Originally Posted by WhiteTiger

Got my car back with her winter tires on yesterday. I'm ready for snow! ;D

[powderjunkie]

Originally Posted by Nufy

These are different rim sizes.

Be sure the smaller ones will fit over your brake calipers.

17 is the rim size for the plebeian trim. I'm just a big dill in an upper-mid trim

Ended up getting Blizzak DMV2s through blackcircles....obviously haven't put them to the test yet, but I'm satisfied so far!

[WhiteTiger]

Originally Posted by TorqueDog

It's a lot later than I usually do, and I usually miss the mark and end up fighting with the crowds and trying to drive my car to the dealership on summer tires after the first snowfall. Not this year.

[TorqueDog]

I figured, I was just being a jerk about it.

[CaptainYooh]

Question to the auto-mechanically proficient:

My SUV has 275/50/22 tires installed. I'd like to go to wider tires sized 305/45/22, which are equivalent to mine in diameter, so no issues with the computer, rpm's, mileage etc. 305's are 30mm wider than my 275's. I'd like this extra width on the outer side. How do I pick the right rims to ensure that the width doesn't go on the inside instead and rub against the underside and during turning?

[Ducay]

Originally Posted by CaptainYooh

Question to the auto-mechanically proficient:

My SUV has 275/50/22 tires installed. I'd like to go to wider tires sized 305/45/22, which are equivalent to mine in diameter, so no issues with the computer, rpm's, mileage etc. 305's are 30mm wider than my 275's. I'd like this extra width on the outer side. How do I pick the right rims to ensure that the width doesn't go on the inside instead and rub against the underside and during turning?

Thats a big step up in width, which seems a bit odd for winters or even summers for an SUV.....but to each their own. You'll be wanting to look at the offset of the rim. All things equal, a larger rim width* (not tire width) would need a smaller than stock positive offset (or a negative offset) to keep the "inside" of the rim in the same spot. But be aware when you turn the outside can also have clearance/rubbing issues as well (since it will turn into the wheel well).

https://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Whee...et-Calculator#


* as mentioned, dont think of tire size alone. A 305/45/22 can take a huge variety of rim widths - 9.5 to 11.5" wide. Your stock tires can run from 7.5-9.5" as well. So both tire width and rim need to be considered when considering offset and fitment since the rubbers can "overlap/extend past" the rim on more narrow rims for a given size.
https://tiresize.com/calculator/

[Baron von Kriterium]

Originally Posted by CaptainYooh

Question to the auto-mechanically proficient:

My SUV has 275/50/22 tires installed. I'd like to go to wider tires sized 305/45/22, which are equivalent to mine in diameter, so no issues with the computer, rpm's, mileage etc. 305's are 30mm wider than my 275's. I'd like this extra width on the outer side. How do I pick the right rims to ensure that the width doesn't go on the inside instead and rub against the underside and during turning?

Geez, taking your SUV to the track?

You have to factor in the wheel's offset.

https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

"Wheel offset is the distance in millimeters from the center line of the wheel to the mounting surface. If the mounting surface is closer to the face of the wheel it is known to have a positive offset and if the mounting point is closer to the inside of the wheel it has a negative offset. Center or no offset is when the mounting point is directly on the centerline of the wheel."

For example, a +40mm offset means the mounting surface of the wheel is 40mm from the centerline towards the street side of the wheel. If your original wheel has an offset of zero, for example, then a wheel with +40 offset will mount further in towards the chassis, in from the fender. In your desired application you will want an offset less than what the OEM wheel is so that the wheel is pushed out street side. Too much negative offset, though, will put strain on your driveline and you have to bear in mind the car manufacturer will spec the driveline components off of the OEM wheel offset. Too much negative offset may also result in tire rub against the fenders when turning at lock-to-lock.

[Shazam]

Originally Posted by WhiteTiger

Got my car back with her winter tires on yesterday. I'm ready for snow! ;D

You have delayed winter's grasp, I thank thee.

[81MC]

You would decrease the wheel offset by half of the total increase.
30mm/2=-15mm offset added to whatever you currently have.

For example, if you run a zero offset wheel, and you currently have a 275mm wide tire (in theory), hub to tire is 137.5. A 305mm tire, hub to inside edge is 152.5mm. You need to move the hub of the wheel in towards the vehicle (this is -bs) 15mm to locate the inside at the same point.

Keep in mind, this moves the entirety of additional width outboard and can look tacky as ####. Also, different tires have different sidewall profiles, you’re certainly not getting down to 1mm measurements with sidewall width most of the time. Also, wider and with rubber sticking out further is like the worst winter thing you can do.

[CaptainYooh]

Originally Posted by 81MC

...
For example, if you run a zero offset wheel, and you currently have a 275mm wide tire (in theory), hub to tire is 137.5. A 305mm tire, hub to inside edge is 152.5mm. You need to move the hub of the wheel in towards the vehicle (this is -bs) 15mm to locate the inside at the same point. ...

Thanks. So, by this calculation, if I do want the entire 30mm width out (rather than distributed evenly 15 in - 15 out), then I need rims with 137.5 + 30 = 167.5mm offset, correct?
(Just don't want to run a risk of that extra 15mm rubbing into anything inside the wheel wells)

[Fuzz]

Originally Posted by CaptainYooh

Thanks. So, by this calculation, if I do want the entire 30mm width out (rather than distributed evenly 15 in - 15 out), then I need rims with 137.5 + 30 = 167.5mm offset, correct?
(Just don't want to run a risk of that extra 15mm rubbing into anything inside the wheel wells)

There are also laws against having some portion of the tire beyond the fender. I'm not sure what they are, but you might want to look that up before committing.

[CaptainYooh]

Originally Posted by Fuzz

There are also laws against having some portion of the tire beyond the fender. I'm not sure what they are, but you might want to look that up before committing.

I know. I have lots of room there under the fenders. I doubt there will be any portion of the rubber protruding beyond the upper fender line.

[81MC]

Originally Posted by CaptainYooh

Thanks. So, by this calculation, if I do want the entire 30mm width out (rather than distributed evenly 15 in - 15 out), then I need rims with 137.5 + 30 = 167.5mm offset, correct?
(Just don't want to run a risk of that extra 15mm rubbing into anything inside the wheel wells)

No.

Zero offset is dead centre. Negative offset moves the hub inward, so more wheel/tire is on the outboard side. So you would go lower (negative) to move ‘out’.

Now, you need to know what your current backspacing is, then subtract that 30mm. But don’t buy rims just because you’re concerned about possible clearance issues. Take a look and confirm. Don’t know what you’re driving, but 1.5cm on tire alone is pretty unlikely to rub.

[CaptainYooh]

Yeah, I got it now. Already talked to the guy at the tire shop.

[CroFlames]

Do you guys buy rims for your winter tires and change em out yourself every season? Wondering what would be cheapest for me dad.