The Home Improvement Thread

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by Hockeyguy15

Anyone have a smart/electric lock? Looking at this one but the people saying there are issues in cold weather are making me second guess it.

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/sch...aaa/1000150272

I had this one on my unheated garage for like 5 years. I liked how the smart portion only is lock/unlock and the turning of the key part is what actually unlocks the deadbolt. It saves battery this way and is slightly less likely to fail/jam/slam the door on an open deadbolt. There are a few things to note though.

- Temperature wise, I've only had the lock slightly unresponsive once or twice over the 5 years and both were like -35C or colder. The code I usually use wasn't completely responding correctly, so I used the code in a lower quadrant of the keypad (no over lapping numbers) and got in fine. If you install this on a house door, I assume the ambient temperature of the home will keep the lock warm enough that cold conditions shouldn't be as big of an issue.

- If you install the locking mechanism incorrectly, you can basically unlock it via pressing a few buttons and having it "reset". Make sure the locking mechanism is in the correct place. The installation instructions warned that if installed incorrectly the lock could actually never lock or always be in lock. What I didn't realize was that there's basically 3 ways to install it. Correct, always lock/unlock or spamming reset (Schlage button) will unlock door without a code. Make sure the pieces are installed in the correct position and order and test the lock for this "feature" after installation. It only takes a few minutes to put the pieces in the right place before you can test the lock, so it's a relatively easy fix if you mess it up.

- Setting up new codes is a PITA. You have to use this super long numeric string of numbers and then type in your code to add or delete it. I get the concept, but not why the lock specific code was like a dozen numbers long and in a spot that's hard to access without disassembling the whole damn thing (and that stupid lock mechanism). I made sure to set up 4 codes. One of each quadrant of the number pad with few overlapping numbers/not dead simple to guess in case a number stopped working.

- Over 5 years, I think I only swapped the battery out twice (for the garage). It might need to be swapped out more often for a front door. My current front door lock I need to swap new batteries in like every 2-3 months. I didn't see a very apparent battery swap notification so that's kinda annoying. It's also great that the battery always lasts over a year, but I also always made sure to have a good 9V battery in place before a cold snap, just in case.

[Hockeyguy15]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

I had this one on my unheated garage for like 5 years. I liked how the smart portion only is lock/unlock and the turning of the key part is what actually unlocks the deadbolt. It saves battery this way and is slightly less likely to fail/jam/slam the door on an open deadbolt. There are a few things to note though.

- Temperature wise, I've only had the lock slightly unresponsive once or twice over the 5 years and both were like -35C or colder. The code I usually use wasn't completely responding correctly, so I used the code in a lower quadrant of the keypad (no over lapping numbers) and got in fine. If you install this on a house door, I assume the ambient temperature of the home will keep the lock warm enough that cold conditions shouldn't be as big of an issue.

- If you install the locking mechanism incorrectly, you can basically unlock it via pressing a few buttons and having it "reset". Make sure the locking mechanism is in the correct place. The installation instructions warned that if installed incorrectly the lock could actually never lock or always be in lock. What I didn't realize was that there's basically 3 ways to install it. Correct, always lock/unlock or spamming reset (Schlage button) will unlock door without a code. Make sure the pieces are installed in the correct position and order and test the lock for this "feature" after installation. It only takes a few minutes to put the pieces in the right place before you can test the lock, so it's a relatively easy fix if you mess it up.

- Setting up new codes is a PITA. You have to use this super long numeric string of numbers and then type in your code to add or delete it. I get the concept, but not why the lock specific code was like a dozen numbers long and in a spot that's hard to access without disassembling the whole damn thing (and that stupid lock mechanism). I made sure to set up 4 codes. One of each quadrant of the number pad with few overlapping numbers/not dead simple to guess in case a number stopped working.

- Over 5 years, I think I only swapped the battery out twice (for the garage). It might need to be swapped out more often for a front door. My current front door lock I need to swap new batteries in like every 2-3 months. I didn't see a very apparent battery swap notification so that's kinda annoying. It's also great that the battery always lasts over a year, but I also always made sure to have a good 9V battery in place before a cold snap, just in case.

I put it on today. If I press the Schlage button and turn the key it locks. If I don't press anything it just spins. I tried spamming the Schlage button like 10 times but it wouldn't unlock unless I used the code. Sounds like I got it right? I didn't change anything out of the package, just installed as is with the deadbolt retracted.

I.did have to cut the hole on my door bigger, thanks for that prior owners.

[Wormius]

Originally Posted by Hockeyguy15

I put it on today. If I press the Schlage button and turn the key it locks. If I don't press anything it just spins. I tried spamming the Schlage button like 10 times but it wouldn't unlock unless I used the code. Sounds like I got it right? I didn't change anything out of the package, just installed as is with the deadbolt retracted.

I.did have to cut the hole on my door bigger, thanks for that prior owners.

Oh yeah, I forgot about the hole. I had to rig up a jig to ream out the new hole.

[Wormius]

That’s weird about the super long programming code. Maybe it was changed, but ours is only 6 digits, so it’s not too bad. And how is the code in a hard place to set? It’s the same place you punch in the numbers to unlock the door. Are we still talking about the Schlage lock in the link?

[Hockeyguy15]

Ours is 6 numbers and you punch that in and hit the Schlage button, then 1 then the new code. Was pretty easy.

[Wormius]

Originally Posted by Hockeyguy15

Ours is 6 numbers and you punch that in and hit the Schlage button, then 1 then the new code. Was pretty easy.

The nice thing is now you can set up temporary codes for somebody to check the house while you’re away, or contractors, etc.

I was just confused about the previous posters comment about how difficult it was to set a new code. Maybe they were talking about a different lock.

[81MC]

Originally Posted by You Need a Thneed

To what level of soundproofing are you looking to achieve?

Thicker drywall helps, sound bar helps, sound insulation helps, double layer drywall helps

If my calculations are close, I’m looking for minimum STC of 60 with a primary focus is keeping noise out of the upstairs room. It’s full range sound, so focusing solely on STC numbers is not a great idea, and I have some venting that I need to figure out a solution for. I don’t think I’ll get away with removing the ducts and going radiant heat for this, but hopefully there’s some mechanical solution that can be used. Basement already has raised flooring, not sure if that’s a help or hinderance with structural borne control.

It’ll be a drum room/guest bedroom, with a washroom attached. The two exterior walls are cinderblock, and the room is well isolated from exterior noise as is.

Budget and maintaining it as a functional space for everyone else is critical. Tentative plans are just bat insulation in joists, double layers of 5/8 drywall throughout and figure out the ducting feasibility. I have a couple of inches to play with drywall guy and adding a secondary ‘ceiling’ if needed.

[You Need a Thneed]

Originally Posted by 81MC

If my calculations are close, I’m looking for minimum STC of 60 with a primary focus is keeping noise out of the upstairs room. It’s full range sound, so focusing solely on STC numbers is not a great idea, and I have some venting that I need to figure out a solution for. I don’t think I’ll get away with removing the ducts and going radiant heat for this, but hopefully there’s some mechanical solution that can be used. Basement already has raised flooring, not sure if that’s a help or hinderance with structural borne control.

It’ll be a drum room/guest bedroom, with a washroom attached. The two exterior walls are cinderblock, and the room is well isolated from exterior noise as is.

Budget and maintaining it as a functional space for everyone else is critical. Tentative plans are just bat insulation in joists, double layers of 5/8 drywall throughout and figure out the ducting feasibility. I have a couple of inches to play with drywall guy and adding a secondary ‘ceiling’ if needed.

Consider sound bar or split studs too.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by Hockeyguy15

I put it on today. If I press the Schlage button and turn the key it locks. If I don't press anything it just spins. I tried spamming the Schlage button like 10 times but it wouldn't unlock unless I used the code. Sounds like I got it right? I didn't change anything out of the package, just installed as is with the deadbolt retracted.

I.did have to cut the hole on my door bigger, thanks for that prior owners.

It sounds like you installed it correctly then. The Schlage button unlock I mentioned is on page 14 of the 2014 user guide in the troubleshooting section. (Below)

Mine I installed in 2015. Looking at the instruction manual revisions, it seems like the new manuals are way easier to follow. I also wonder if they also redesigned some of the internals (especially the cam piece) so that it doesn't easily spin when the keypad was put on.

Originally Posted by Wormius

That’s weird about the super long programming code. Maybe it was changed, but ours is only 6 digits, so it’s not too bad. And how is the code in a hard place to set? It’s the same place you punch in the numbers to unlock the door. Are we still talking about the Schlage lock in the link?

(2014 guides)
https://www.schlage.com/content/dam/...s/23780042.pdf
https://www.imlss.com/images/pdf/BE3...structions.pdf

Sorry, I think I misremembered the code a little bit and I also had the misfortune of not having a programming label sticker on the manual/guide (followed guide and flipped to front page to see the (place label here) square so I had to reopen my installed lock to get the code. That gave me some disassembly/reassembly grief.

The 2014 instruction manual was also confusing as F to someone who had never ever even installed a deadbolt let alone this keyless lock, so it felt a bit more confusing than required when I was installing it.

(2018 guide)
https://www.schlage.com/content/dam/...s/23780000.pdf

The 2018 manual is so much easier to follow. One booklet, 4 pages for install and user guide. 2014 manual: 2 booklets for install and user guide, 4 + 15 = 19 pages.

Basically according to the manual, it's 6 digits programming code, wait, Schlage button, #1, wait, 4 digit code, 4 digit code. So like 16 presses to key in a single code. I programmed 4 codes to even out the wear of the buttons as recommended and I deleted 2 codes which I realized were stupid test codes to program into the lock (ie: 0000/9876).

Memory tells me I experienced a ton of grief installing this thing at my old place. I will admit, some of my grief was my own stupidity and lack of handyman skills and tools at the time. But after it was installed, I thought it was an excellent product. It seems they've done some slight redesigns to make it easier for the average person to install, which is great.

Originally Posted by Wormius

The nice thing is now you can set up temporary codes for somebody to check the house while you’re away, or contractors, etc.

I was just confused about the previous posters comment about how difficult it was to set a new code. Maybe they were talking about a different lock.

Nope, same lock. I was unfortunate to not have the code on the user manual though and somehow like an idiot, I'd remember the 6 digit code, program, forget, then have open the mechanism to see the code. I somehow did this a few times and embarrassingly never ever thought that I should have written the code on the manual.

Originally Posted by Wormius

Oh yeah, I forgot about the hole. I had to rig up a jig to ream out the new hole.

Oh god, I remember this too now. The deadbolt was too short and the door hole was too small. I think I spent 1-2 hours with a ####ty metal hand file from the dollar store purely trying to widen the hole to get the lock to fit and the deadbolt to reach the strike plate. This on a steel garage door.

Nowadays I know how to lengthen a deadbolt with a twist of a screw driver and power tools < unnecessary manual labour.

Man I was stupid. So hilariously stupid.

[speede5]

In the future if you have to make a hole bigger

- Use a hole saw on a piece of 2x4 to make a plug
- Put it in the existing hole in the door
- use the 2x4 as a backer plate and clamp it to the door, this will keep the plug in place
- use the larger hole saw to drill a new hole

Alternately you can drill the right size hole in the 2x4 and clamp it to the door as a guide for the new hole.

The whole process should take about 15 minutes.

[Hockeyguy15]

Originally Posted by speede5

In the future if you have to make a hole bigger

- Use a hole saw on a piece of 2x4 to make a plug
- Put it in the existing hole in the door
- use the 2x4 as a backer plate and clamp it to the door, this will keep the plug in place
- use the larger hole saw to drill a new hole

Alternately you can drill the right size hole in the 2x4 and clamp it to the door as a guide for the new hole.

The whole process should take about 15 minutes.

https://www.rona.ca/en/dewaltr-door-...180004-0027250

I bought that, took me longer to get it out of the package than it did to make the hole bigger.

[speede5]

Yes! another way to do it for sure. I have a cheap plastic one but its not very deep so it doesn't work well for fixing an existing hole.

They are adjustable so they work on both handle positions as well.

[Hockeyguy15]

This one worked great, would recommend if anyone was going to buy one. Or message me to borrow it, I like beer.

[jwslam]

Originally Posted by Hockeyguy15

I put it on today. If I press the Schlage button and turn the key it locks. If I don't press anything it just spins. I tried spamming the Schlage button like 10 times but it wouldn't unlock unless I used the code. Sounds like I got it right? I didn't change anything out of the package, just installed as is with the deadbolt retracted.

I.did have to cut the hole on my door bigger, thanks for that prior owners.

Out of the box it's configured for a door swinging left? (maybe. or vice versa)
Sounds like yours swings right, which you have to toggle the switch so that it runs backwards...
so as of right now yours is code lock, no-code unlock because it's backwards.

Something to do with install step #8
https://www.imlss.com/images/pdf/BE3...structions.pdf

[Hockeyguy15]

Originally Posted by jwslam

Out of the box it's configured for a door swinging left? (maybe. or vice versa)
Sounds like yours swings right, which you have to toggle the switch so that it runs backwards...
so as of right now yours is code lock, no-code unlock because it's backwards.

Something to do with install step #8
https://www.imlss.com/images/pdf/BE3...structions.pdf

Nope it's fine, door opens inside the house (hinge on the left side facing the door from the inside). Press Schlage to lock, press code to unlock.

[Fuzz]

Yup, sounds like it is correct to me.

[powderjunkie]

I can't recall if it was discussed in this thread or somewhere else, but I'm looking to apply for the Canada Greener Homes Retrofit Grant. It seems you might be stuck with whatever auditor you select, and that some of them have been crap. Does anyone have a recommendation on who to select?

[Ahuch]

Originally Posted by powderjunkie

I can't recall if it was discussed in this thread or somewhere else, but I'm looking to apply for the Canada Greener Homes Retrofit Grant. It seems you might be stuck with whatever auditor you select, and that some of them have been crap. Does anyone have a recommendation on who to select?

Just remember whoever you picked because there's literally no way to review your application after. Submitted mine 42 days ago and it's been radio silence ever since

[speede5]

That program looks very familiar to the Energuide one they had back around 2008. I did well with it on two homes, I didn't remember the evaluators being a huge part of the equation, they document the before and after but if you do the work it's hard for them not to record it. I pointed out everything I was going to do during the first walkthrough so all the deficincies could be noted, and got a few tips from the guy. All in all a decent program.

Bonus that you get reimbursed for the evaluation.

[Flames0910]

Originally Posted by Ahuch

Just remember whoever you picked because there's literally no way to review your application after. Submitted mine 42 days ago and it's been radio silence ever since

I emailed mine (verdatech) and said “look I know you’re busy but I have a 100 year old house and no shortage of projects I would like to get started so i would appreciate a date” — which they were receptive to (it’s at the end of august but at least I can plan around it) Worst they can do is ignore ya (which they’re doing already so nothing to lose!).