The Home Improvement Thread

[jwslam]

Originally Posted by OutOfTheCube

So, any rough ideas on how much it costs one to get a small basement finished? Would be a one bathroom / one bedroom / living space type area, plumbing is roughed in for the bathroom. I just honestly have no idea, we're new to being detached home owners where we can actually do things.

We can't afford it immediately but I want to have a ballpark for how much money I should get saved up before we can start talking about it.

Gotta define your definition of "small"... Assuming it's still ~700sqft?

Cheap: $10k materials (maybe my numbers are off based on today's lumber, consider steel studs?)
Mid range finishings: $15-20k materials
DIY Tools: $5k (combination of buying things you need, renting things you don't)
Labour from someone else: $20-30k

[RichieRich]

Originally Posted by jwslam

Gotta define your definition of "small"... Assuming it's still ~700sqft?

Cheap: $10k materials (maybe my numbers are off based on today's lumber, consider steel studs?)
Mid range finishings: $15-20k materials
DIY Tools: $5k (combination of buying things you need, renting things you don't)
Labour from someone else: $20-30k

Our basement is small..small... at about 440sqft. That's thanks to the garage location. Crap design but we max'd out the design IMO with a TV room, small bathroom, and bedroom/office space, plus wide hallway off the stairs. We did the design and project management side of things. I paid for a framer to come in... I had "help" with the electrical and all audio/entertainment wiring for in-ceiling speakers and lighting. Paid for drywall install (best idea) including mud/tape/sanding. Did my own subfloor and decent wood flooring $$. Paid for guy to hang doors incl cupboards. Wife did all trim and paint. Oh, and put in natural gas fireplace (don't forget the fan)... just wish I'd put a thermostat in instead of manual on/off. Have TV mounted above fireplace. Also having different breakers for different things instead of combining too many things (ie all lighting, all plugs, etc.) Big thing is to consider "future proofing" your technology wiring as much as possible.

Granted this was about ~10yrs back but came to about $20-25k. Figured we saved about $10k with a mix of DIY and own project management, plus got it done in a reasonable timeframe.

[Wormius]

I cut the header for the door casing a hair too short. I didn’t think it would be as noticeable after caulking and painting but I can still see it. Should I try to build it up with something? Would wood filler work for this?

[surferguy]

Originally Posted by Wormius

I cut the header for the door casing a hair too short. I didn’t think it would be as noticeable after caulking and painting but I can still see it. Should I try to build it up with something? Would wood filler work for this?

Picture?

[Wormius]

Originally Posted by surferguy

Picture?

Top left-edge is a tad short, but it catches my eye. Also the pieces aren't coplanar with one another, so the header is a little bit raised from the side pieces.

[surferguy]

My garage is not insulated. I’d like it to be warmer for working in the winter. The downside is that the whole thing has been sheeted with plywood and then OSB including the ceiling. Then somebody that looks just like me in the mirror built a metric #### ton of shelves and moved a bunch of stuff inside the space.

Basically getting access to the rafters from inside would be a nightmare and I’m lazy. I need to reshingle the roof this summer, could I insulate from the top? My biggest concern I guess would be vapor barrier. I’m open for all options here but walk me through how I could potentially insulate here.

[surferguy]

Originally Posted by Wormius

Top left-edge is a tad short, but it catches my eye. Also the pieces aren't coplanar with one another, so the header is a little bit raised from the side pieces.

For something like that maybe 1/16? Maybe 1/8”?

At 1/8” I’d stab and glue something in place if I had to, and clean it up with putty. At 1/16”. Id gingerly putty and sand until it looks correct.


Use it as a learning process for the next time.

That’s just me though.

[sa226]

Originally Posted by Wormius

Top left-edge is a tad short, but it catches my eye. Also the pieces aren't coplanar with one another, so the header is a little bit raised from the side pieces.

I think there's a saying, "30 day rule" or something. Leave it for 30 days and if it's still bugging you. Fix it.

Is it Mdf? Glued? Could just take it down and do it again. Or if you don't want to do that, cut a very small piece off a scrap and glue it to side to fill the gap, then cleane up the line with filler and paint.

I wouldn't try and woodfill the whole thing.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

[Nufy]

Garage:

You need vapor barrier ?

I would not insulate without it.

What crawling through an access panel to the rafters ? Insulate between the joists.

Or hire a little person if you don't think the rafters will support you.

[Fuzz]

Originally Posted by Nufy

Garage:

You need vapor barrier ?

I would not insulate without it.

What crawling through an access panel to the rafters ? Insulate between the joists.

Or hire a little person if you don't think the rafters will support you.

Surferguy is a little person.


/sorry buddy

[Wormius]

Originally Posted by surferguy

For something like that maybe 1/16? Maybe 1/8”?

At 1/8” I’d stab and glue something in place if I had to, and clean it up with putty. At 1/16”. Id gingerly putty and sand until it looks correct.


Use it as a learning process for the next time.

That’s just me though.

Yeah. Definitely a learning process. It does look like it is easier to fix up a bad 45 mitre than a 90. I actually learned a few good tips on Vancouver Carpenter about putting up door trim so that the ends are flush with each other. Anyway, just added a bit of wood filler to that end and once it gets a bit less goopy, I will use my long trowel to conform to the right length and get rid of the excess filler.

My only objection to leaving it for 30 days is this is the kitchen and my family is losing their patience with all of the stuff in the way.

[surferguy]

Originally Posted by Fuzz

Surferguy is a little person.


/sorry buddy

You spelled beautiful wrong

[speede5]

If you're redoing the roof pull off a couple sheets for access and get the ceiling done with spray foam. it is its own vapour barrier and gets in all the crevices. Normally they spray the actual roof and the attic becomes a warm space but in your case the ceiling might be a better option.

You could do the same with the exterior walls but you'd have to take all the sheeting off and that would be a massive pita. I did that for an addition on a clients house but that was two walls at about 10' each, not a whole building.

Thats what I'd try. but a spray foam guy might have different ideas.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by OutOfTheCube

So, any rough ideas on how much it costs one to get a small basement finished? Would be a one bathroom / one bedroom / living space type area, plumbing is roughed in for the bathroom. I just honestly have no idea, we're new to being detached home owners where we can actually do things.

We can't afford it immediately but I want to have a ballpark for how much money I should get saved up before we can start talking about it.

I did a 650 sq ft roughed in basement with slightly higher end trim for $40K about 5 years ago. It constituted a utility room, bed room, bathroom and entertainment area.

A few things to mention: Heat vents on the floor and air intake on the ceiling help a ton for convection so that the basement isn't as cold (Costs a few hundred bucks or so to do if done before basement is developed).

Don't cheap out on sound insulation of the utility room and bathroom/bedroom doors.

An underlay on the floor helps to keep the basement floor from being too cold.

[rohara66]

Spray foam is expensive and overkill for a garage.



But yes you 100% need the poly vapour barrier as it acts as the air barrier which will hold all the warm air in your garage. Insulation without an air barrier is pointless.

[guzzy]

Originally Posted by OutOfTheCube

So, any rough ideas on how much it costs one to get a small basement finished? Would be a one bathroom / one bedroom / living space type area, plumbing is roughed in for the bathroom. I just honestly have no idea, we're new to being detached home owners where we can actually do things.

We can't afford it immediately but I want to have a ballpark for how much money I should get saved up before we can start talking about it.

I finished mine in late 2018 before lumber costs sky-rocketed. My final cost was $20k (not including furniture, fridge, TV etc) for 1000 sq ft development. One bed, one bath, wet bar, gym, family/TV room. Went with mid range finishing. This includes having to re-rough in plumbing because it was too close to the wall and no way to tie shower drain in.

I did everything myself except drywall, mud, tape and texture. Cost for those alone was $7200.

I also got very lucky because I wasn't in a hurry. I would wait for Lowe's or Rona to do their 15% off on certain weekends. Order my materials online, pick up Monday and have what I needed for two weeks. Also, the Rona on Mcleod switched over to Lowes. I got lots of plumbing and electrical supplies for 90% off.

[speede5]

Originally Posted by rohara66

Spray foam is expensive and overkill for a garage.



But yes you 100% need the poly vapour barrier as it acts as the air barrier which will hold all the warm air in your garage. Insulation without an air barrier is pointless.

True, but is it more expensive than ripping out the entire interior to add Poly? spray foam forms its own vapour barrier hence the suggestion.

[ryeguy252]

looking for a custom dining live edge bench with custom metal black legs, does anyone have any suggestions to contact in Calgary or nearby.

Thanks!

[topfiverecords]

Originally Posted by speede5

True, but is it more expensive than ripping out the entire interior to add Poly? spray foam forms its own vapour barrier hence the suggestion.

Comment not directly meant to apply to surferguy's situation:

Theoretically it does but technically spray foam delaminates from the wood as expansion, contraction and shifting happens creating air paths. We still poly when spray foaming as good practice on new builds. Though not likely a huge concern on a detached garage. Attached garage is a different story where I would do it in order to barrier against exhaust fumes, especially under a living space.

[jwslam]

Originally Posted by Wormius

Also the pieces aren't coplanar with one another, so the header is a little bit raised from the side pieces.

Yes I would cut a new piece

Also very informational:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQHHfZqRTyE

edit: looks like you already know about this guy.