The Home Improvement Thread

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by jaydorn

Yeah that's my plan, I'm just looking for anyone who's been down that path before and any tips they have from their adventure.

Theoretically it seems easy and a few days worth of work. It's not. Long story short, it's a god damn pricey PITA.

It takes a crap ton of time (1-2 weeks minimum, for me took nearly 4 weeks for my kitchen refresh). This is because every step has either a long half a day to full day drying time or cleaning time before the next step. It's not even a huge, huge cost savings and it comes with really annoying time requirements to complete. I think I had someone look at what we did. I think I spent like $7-8K on my kitchen refresh and for like $3-4K more, it could have been brand new and modern cabinets with soft close etc.

If you're replacing stuff, IMO all or nothing. Don't keep the old frame and just replace the doors. Get someone to show up and price out the whole thing. It'll look better because it will better match. Less likely to have crooked doors etc. You'd be surprised at what the prices actually can come to and spending 10-20% more so that your kitchen isn't non-functional for 1-2 weeks might be worth it. The cabinet frame is the cheapest part of the whole thing. The doors and hardware are significantly more expensive than the frame. Paint isn't horribly cheap either and you're using so little of it in comparison on the frame while spending extra to prep it to take the paint. Leaving that part in and replacing everything else isn't saving you much at all with the rework, patch etc.

You have to clean, strip (ie: bleach/TPS combo), sanding to rough it up so the paint won't flake, clean (ie: get rid of all the dust) and prime before attempting to paint otherwise, the paint might not stick properly (dust, oil etc.) and/or perhaps some issues with the look of the paint. You also have options for brush/roller painting vs paint sprayer. Spray looks way better, but then you spend like 80% of the time setting up plastic etc. before spraying.

Something worth experimenting with the truly cheap refresh route with is just leave the cabinets and doors as is. Do a basic clean and polish on all of it. Then replace the hardware (knobs, handles, hinges) to a different color/style and also change all your lights in your kitchen to a different color LED (it will surprisingly change the color of what the cabinets will look like). Going the route of modifying/replacing back splash can also accent the cabinets to make them look different. Under counter lights will also change the look as well.

Sink and tap wise, it should be one of the first purchases. Get those at the same time as the hardware/hinges. You want to have it on hand (not specs) to give to the counter top people so that they can machine the holes appropriately. You also want to see the metal in person to understand how it will look in the lighting you have.

[Shin Pad]

Originally Posted by Scroopy Noopers

I plan on repainting mine, taking them all off, using an oil based paint for a tough finish. Too many other things to fix to replace perfectly functioning cabinets.

Yeah that's exactly what I did with the cabinets in my previous house. I took all the doors off, sanded them (just to rough them up a bit), and then I painted them with a cabinet finish (melamine). I got new door handles. They looked great.

[Regular_John]

Originally Posted by topfiverecords

K & A Custom Cabinet Doors
http://kandadoors.ca/

5 piece solid maple w/ mdf panel doors, custom profile, I had made for my kitchen were about $1200. I had 26 fronts in total.

They don't do finishing so you need to take them to get finished by someone else, but they make great fronts. Only took about 2-3 weeks IIRC.

Oh cool, yeah we've got roughly 1/2 that number of doors, so the cost seems fair for that range. Having said that, DoubleF's experience above has me doubting this approach.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by jaydorn

Oh cool, yeah we've got roughly 1/2 that number of doors, so the cost seems fair for that range. Having said that, DoubleF's experience above has me doubting this approach.

My kitchen refresh included the cabinet doors as well so that added to the frustration. The reason I recommend considering doing the frame as well is because when you clean and strip the coating using TPS/bleach, it will absorb water. You might get minor cracking or slight warping which is what I had. It's not a structural concern at all. It is just super minor cosmetic stuff that no one else notices, but it bugs the crap out of me on occasion.

The frame doesn't save much and also limits your refresh and upgrade options. It might be the same profile from the outside in the end, but "under the hood" it could be significantly upgraded.

Another reason to replace the frame is because of the type of door in the pic you showed. The hinges are on the outside of the door. Replacing the frame will allow you to go with an option with the hinges on the inside which is more modern looking and a bit more neat and tidy. These types of hinges also allow you to adjust the alignment. If something goes wrong alignment wise with the hinges on the outside, it's more noticeable. It also makes it far easier for you to install soft close which is super nice.

[topfiverecords]

??

Can't change the cabinet carcass without redoing countertops. Redoing the carcass also requires all new gables, drawer boxes, glides, etc.

Then you've gone from new fronts, shop lacquered, site refinish the existing face frames, reinstall fronts to an entire kitchen gut.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by topfiverecords

??

Can't change the cabinet carcass without redoing countertops. Redoing the carcass also requires all new gables, drawer boxes, glides, etc.

Then you've gone from new fronts, shop lacquered, site refinish the existing face frames, reinstall fronts to an entire kitchen gut.

Jaydorn said he's planning on replacing the counter tops. He basically listed everything other than the frame which is why I suggested he look into the frame. I agree that if counter tops are not being done, it makes no sense, but if like 85% of everything else is going to be new, do 100% instead.

I don't disagree with what you say in your post about the work necessary to replace the cabinet frames. But knowing what I know now, with the extent of work I did in my kitchen (paint, hardware, counter tops, sink etc.), realizing that I could get away with spending like 20-40% more total and getting brand new, modern upgraded stuff and extra features is something I wish I knew and could consider. It's nice to have a finality to the work being done and being able to take advantage of upgraded features that aren't available with the reuse of the old frame.

That's also why I said he should get someone to quote out a new frame and compare it to the contractor/he refurbing the old one because of the extent of work he is doing. Yes it will be more, but it should be only a slight (not major) bump up for the extensive work he is already planning on possibly doing and he might realize certain time/work savings that can reduce that gap a wee bit further.

[Barnes]

Need a bit of advice. We have a run of that plastic sheeting for a cold return in our basement ceiling. Above it is our powder room which is kind of in the middle of the floor (as in you can walk around the outside). The outside wall of the powder room above the cold air return has a light switch and receptacle collects a tonne of dust around the plate and inside the boxes which leads me to believe there’s a vacuum going on inside the wall attracting the dust which probably means the cold air return is leaking air through the floor from the wall cavity above.

I will take it all down to look for the leak but what do I seal it up with? I doubt that foil tape will hold against the wood subfloor or joists, can I use Tuck tape?

[jwslam]

Originally Posted by Barnes

Need a bit of advice. We have a run of that plastic sheeting for a cold return in our basement ceiling. Above it is our powder room which is kind of in the middle of the floor (as in you can walk around the outside). The outside wall of the powder room above the cold air return has a light switch and receptacle collects a tonne of dust around the plate and inside the boxes which leads me to believe there’s a vacuum going on inside the wall attracting the dust which probably means the cold air return is leaking air through the floor from the wall cavity above.

I will take it all down to look for the leak but what do I seal it up with? I doubt that foil tape will hold against the wood subfloor or joists, can I use Tuck tape?

I've seen it look like this stuff?
https://www.nachi.org/building-cavit...turn-ducts.htm



https://www.homedepot.ca/product/pla...nch/1000171721

[Barnes]

Yeah, that stuff as panned joists. From the article looks like I need approved tape or mastic. Mastic is messy, just need to find approved tape. I imagine for inside the duct, mastic is my only choice.

[Fuzz]

You can get foil tape with mastic on it, which would probably be the least messy way of doing it.

[InglewoodFan]

Next project for our old house is to get the main panel replaced and upgraded. Existing panel has a couple of double run circuits and a sub panel. Generally a bit of a DIY mess from previous owners. Will add a circuit for eventual hot tub and will also look into getting service to detached garage upgraded for eventual car charger. Any other ideas for something I might be missing?

My service is currently pole to the house, then underground to garage. Pondering whether to change to pole to garage then underground to the house. I've seen a few houses in the neighbourhood done this way. Anyone undertaken this change? Wondering what the pros and cons are.

[PaperBagger'14]

Originally Posted by InglewoodFan

Next project for our old house is to get the main panel replaced and upgraded. Existing panel has a couple of double run circuits and a sub panel. Generally a bit of a DIY mess from previous owners. Will add a circuit for eventual hot tub and will also look into getting service to detached garage upgraded for eventual car charger. Any other ideas for something I might be missing?

My service is currently pole to the house, then underground to garage. Pondering whether to change to pole to garage then underground to the house. I've seen a few houses in the neighbourhood done this way. Anyone undertaken this change? Wondering what the pros and cons are.

I've wired in both, and they are both doable with no huge pros/cons either way. One thing to look for is the internal diameter of the pipe from the garage to the house. Basically the bigger this pipe is, the more power you can run in it. Anything under 1-1/4" pipe you will probably want to upgrade to that size or bigger, as I believe the maximum amount of power you can run in that pipe is about 100A (aka normal house panel size).

[Fuzz]

I did mine from the pole to the garage, then underground to the house. It's nice not to have an overhead wire. FYI it was a major PITA to find a department at Enmax to handle the meter move. It felt like I was the first person in the city requesting it, and got bounced around to about 5 different people.

[RichieRich]

Originally Posted by InglewoodFan

Next project for our old house is to get the main panel replaced and upgraded. Existing panel has a couple of double run circuits and a sub panel. Generally a bit of a DIY mess from previous owners. Will add a circuit for eventual hot tub and will also look into getting service to detached garage upgraded for eventual car charger. Any other ideas for something I might be missing?

My service is currently pole to the house, then underground to garage. Pondering whether to change to pole to garage then underground to the house. I've seen a few houses in the neighbourhood done this way. Anyone undertaken this change? Wondering what the pros and cons are.

Think of future proofing your home and garage with respect to running 240v outlets and breakers.

[Wormius]

Plumbing question - I have a problem that doesn't seem to be addressed anywhere on the internet. In one of our bathtubs we have a typical tub spout with the pull diverter to redirect water to the shower head. The weird thing is the shower drips a lot when the tub spout is selected to fill the bathtub. I am not sure if this is related to water pressure or if there is something wrong with the tub spouts or if I should look somewhere else in the plumbing. The tub spout doesn't leak when we have the shower selected.

I am not sure what would be a lot of pressure, but the water does come out of the tub spout a pretty high rate from what I have seen. It's just annoying because the water pressure at the shower head isn't enough to clear the edge of the bathtub, so it splashes and gets on the floor.

[sa226]

I'll take a stab at this.

Simple guess is that you have a bit of a leaky diverter valve/posi temp valve or whatever it is you have.

Random guess is that the run from the valve to the shower head is pex and most likely the tub spout is copper. Its a pretty common setup. Most people that have that setup, after a shower when you turn off the shower and the tub spout diverter releases, randomly the shower head drips. That is because the inner diameter of pex tubing is less than copper, so water physics says that its going to take the path of least resistance (poor choice of words) which is the narrower pex. So you get some dripping water when you turn off the shower.

The dripping water when the shower is turned off only really happens because there's some water left in the lines with nowhere else to go, so it finds its way out. With the tub spout on full blast and still dripping out the shower, that tells me there is a pex run to the shower head and a bit of a leaky diverter valve.

Tl;dr I think you have a leaky diverter valve and it needs to be fixed or replaced.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

[jwslam]

Originally Posted by Wormius

Plumbing question - I have a problem that doesn't seem to be addressed anywhere on the internet. In one of our bathtubs we have a typical tub spout with the pull diverter to redirect water to the shower head. The weird thing is the shower drips a lot when the tub spout is selected to fill the bathtub. I am not sure if this is related to water pressure or if there is something wrong with the tub spouts or if I should look somewhere else in the plumbing. The tub spout doesn't leak when we have the shower selected.

I am not sure what would be a lot of pressure, but the water does come out of the tub spout a pretty high rate from what I have seen. It's just annoying because the water pressure at the shower head isn't enough to clear the edge of the bathtub, so it splashes and gets on the floor.

How old is the place? A few things to try
1) Take the shower head off
1a) Check for water sediments / hardness stuff causing pluggage
1b) If it's one of those water efficient ones, you can remove the restrictor. You'll use more water but get more pressure
2) Replace the tub spout. Generally pretty easy to do, it's one screw on the bottom for most kinds. Youtube is key. It's like a $20 part on amazon *** there are different designs though, this one is just the common kind
https://www.amazon.ca/Prime-Line-MP5...8&s=hi&sr=1-19

[opendoor]

Originally Posted by Wormius

Plumbing question - I have a problem that doesn't seem to be addressed anywhere on the internet. In one of our bathtubs we have a typical tub spout with the pull diverter to redirect water to the shower head. The weird thing is the shower drips a lot when the tub spout is selected to fill the bathtub. I am not sure if this is related to water pressure or if there is something wrong with the tub spouts or if I should look somewhere else in the plumbing. The tub spout doesn't leak when we have the shower selected.

I am not sure what would be a lot of pressure, but the water does come out of the tub spout a pretty high rate from what I have seen. It's just annoying because the water pressure at the shower head isn't enough to clear the edge of the bathtub, so it splashes and gets on the floor.

That's actually a pretty common problem, at least if I'm understanding things correctly. Here are a few threads on a plumbing forum about it:

https://terrylove.com/forums/index.p...-filled.38737/
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.p...er-down.43103/
https://terrylove.com/forums/index.p...is-open.74920/

Basically, the issue is usually too much restriction from the valve to the tub spout, which means water enters the valve faster than it leaves the spout, and it then finds its way up to the shower head. That can be caused by using pex pipe from the valve to the tub (the inside diameter is usually too small to deliver the right volume to a tub spout), some kind of blockage, or something wrong with the tub spout. And theoretically at least, too much water pressure/volume could also cause that. So if that's the most likely issue, you could always put a pressure reducing valve on the main line if it's too high.

I don't think it would be a leaky diverter valve as mentioned above; that would normally cause the opposite problem (water coming out the tub spout when you're showering). In the standard shower/bath valve setup, the only thing really keeping water from coming out the shower head when filling the tub is gravity and lack of pressure due to tub spout's flow; the valve doesn't really come into play.

[Wormius]

The bathroom was renovated a few years ago, but it is actually a mix of pex and copper. It was originally polyb to copper and then when the bathroom was renovated it was swapped out with the pex. So is that possibly why we didn’t have this issue before?

We rarely use the bathtub, so I just noticed it today when filling up the tub.

edit: I was looking at the Terry Love site, and I should clarify it was originally polyb (now pex) coming up to the mixer, but it was copper to the tub spout and the shower head. I will have to take a look at photos my wife took to see if that is still the case, or if the guy used pex to the tub spout/shower head.

[speede5]

Originally Posted by jaydorn

Yeah that's my plan, I'm just looking for anyone who's been down that path before and any tips they have from their adventure.

Use Melamine paint, it is a great, durable, cleanable, finish for kitchen cabinets. I've repainted two kitchens with it.