Cycling Thread 2

[afc wimbledon]

Originally Posted by Johnny199r

I emailed my local bike shop inquiring about ordering a Trek road bike I had researched.

Unfortunately, the global bicycle shortage has continued into 2021. I'm told it's impossible to place new orders for bicycles. It comes down to what they already have, or what was previously ordered, which I have a strong suspicion will be only very expensive models rather than the $1000 entry level model I want.

There's some great second hand bikes out there on craigslist though, I picked up a LeMond Ti in Seattle for just over a grand, my mates kid has it sitting in his closet waiting for me to come pick it up (could be a while granted)

[combustiblefuel]

Originally Posted by Johnny199r

I emailed my local bike shop inquiring about ordering a Trek road bike I had researched.

Unfortunately, the global bicycle shortage has continued into 2021. I'm told it's impossible to place new orders for bicycles. It comes down to what they already have, or what was previously ordered, which I have a strong suspicion will be only very expensive models rather than the $1000 entry level model I want.

It would be the opposite. Many companies have cut out there top of the line bikes and niche bikes this year to allow the manufacturing to.keep up with the bread and butter.

The bread and butter of most bike shops is the $500 to 1000 dollar bikes. Followed closely by the 1600 t0 2200 dollar bikes.

A person coming in to buy a $2500 + in my store isn't usually buying a bike that day. That's a few visits over maybe a few weeks. They want to really compare options at the store then almost every other store. The people who want to invest in a top tier bike take a good amount of time in their purchase. Our shop will sell a dozen bikes in the 500 to 1000 range in a day at times before you make a big sale.

That's just how it is. That's what the average joe rides contrary to how the industry markets the image of what is normal.

Yes, the majority of shops will have done there bookings in Aug/Sept. I know many other stores that have been sold out of bikes since June. I know customers have had money down since the end off July. Many of our brands were suppose to come in at the end of October bit due to manufacturing disruptions again they got pushed back till late feb/march. A couple of companies I know got pushed back till May.

[ken0042]

Well, you guys have all put me to shame. I had a grand total of 650 km in 2020. A big part of that was Covid; not only working from home, but also not wanting to get on transit. (Especially in the colder months I would bring my bike into work with the car one day, take the bus in and ride home the next. My commute is 27 km, so especially when getting back at it- 54 km in a day is too much.

So, I have went ahead and done it. I ordered a winter tire for the mountain bike, and it's in the car now for the trip into work tomorrow. I haven't figured out how I'm getting into work on Tuesday- that's future Ken's problem. Hopefully can get back into the groove for 2021.

So thanks CP for pushing me along. (again)

[flamesfan1297]

Wow, you guys are amazing with the miles you put on this year. I did 1600kms which is a personal best for me, I think 2000 is going to be my goal for 2021

[habernac]

Rode the last two days, hope to keep it going today. How's everyone else doing?

[Bigtime]

Originally Posted by habernac

Rode the last two days, hope to keep it going today. How's everyone else doing?

First ride of they year on my way to work today, already behind pace for 7000km.

[BurningYears]

Originally Posted by habernac

Rode the last two days, hope to keep it going today. How's everyone else doing?

The paths were a perfect hardpack snow for my gravel grinder the last couple of days. other then the meandering pedestrians who love to walk 3 wide on the path. lol.

[habernac]

Originally Posted by BurningYears

The paths were a perfect hardpack snow for my gravel grinder the last couple of days. other then the meandering pedestrians who love to walk 3 wide on the path. lol.

Or the "my dog is offleash on the path" people. I love them, too.

Did some gravel north of the city yesterday. Some interesting drift spots where it got a little soft and sketchy, but very rideable. That wind, tho....

[stazzy33]

I just got into road biking over the summer and love it. Haven't done any rides beyond 30 km but combining that with mountain biking I have seen a huge improvement in my cardio and endurance.

I've started training indoors for the winter and have found that really rewarding already, however I am running into an issue with the important bits that I have never experienced during an outdoor ride. Basically if I am on the trainer for 30+ minutes the frank, of frank and beans fame, starts to go numb. All the reading I have done points to the saddle, so I have tried a few different ones with and without cut-outs, with limited success. I am now starting to wonder if it is more of a position on the bike than the saddle itself. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions to get this issue sorted. I know it's not a good thing.

[Fuzz]

Your seat could be to high. Do you find your hips rocking back and forth? I assume you have played with seat angle as well.

[Bill Bumface]

As someone who has had a heart condition since their early 20s that is common in people involved in heavy endurance training (I was always very active, but wouldn't call myself an endurance athlete), just remember:

Cardiovascular health correlates to exercise in a u-shaped curve. Be careful.

[combustiblefuel]

Originally Posted by stazzy33

I just got into road biking over the summer and love it. Haven't done any rides beyond 30 km but combining that with mountain biking I have seen a huge improvement in my cardio and endurance.

I've started training indoors for the winter and have found that really rewarding already, however I am running into an issue with the important bits that I have never experienced during an outdoor ride. Basically if I am on the trainer for 30+ minutes the frank, of frank and beans fame, starts to go numb. All the reading I have done points to the saddle, so I have tried a few different ones with and without cut-outs, with limited success. I am now starting to wonder if it is more of a position on the bike than the saddle itself. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions to get this issue sorted. I know it's not a good thing.

It could be saddle height but it can also be bar height. Over the years I've developed the belief your bar height should be level with your seat. This is the absolute best place to start for comfortable ride. The only excuse to have bars lower is on a race bike in a race . If your bike is a proper size this will not be an issue to acheive. To be of any actual help if you post a photo of your bike then it would be easier to give advice. If you also provide your cycling inseam (different than your pants inseam) it would be easier to identify proper seat height and proper seat. Also need to see how your cockpit is set up, maybe your reaching to muchaybe you are not reaching far enough..

Asking about seats you'll get many different answers. Need to see your set up, your sit bone width, are you using a shimmy, body type because you may have a wide sit bone but have thinner legs or vice versa so that effects nose saddle width.

[Ironhorse]

Originally Posted by Bill Bumface

As someone who has had a heart condition since their early 20s that is common in people involved in heavy endurance training (I was always very active, but wouldn't call myself an endurance athlete), just remember:

Cardiovascular health correlates to exercise in a u-shaped curve. Be careful.

What are METS? And it recommends 150 minutes/week? That's like 2.5 hours. I guess I'm screwed, I'm at 12-16/week when training and peaking for an event.

[Ryan Coke]

Well, I found where it came from.

https://www.researchgate.net/publica...diac_morbidity

[stazzy33]

Originally Posted by combustiblefuel

It could be saddle height but it can also be bar height. Over the years I've developed the belief your bar height should be level with your seat. This is the absolute best place to start for comfortable ride. The only excuse to have bars lower is on a race bike in a race . If your bike is a proper size this will not be an issue to acheive. To be of any actual help if you post a photo of your bike then it would be easier to give advice. If you also provide your cycling inseam (different than your pants inseam) it would be easier to identify proper seat height and proper seat. Also need to see how your cockpit is set up, maybe your reaching to muchaybe you are not reaching far enough..

Asking about seats you'll get many different answers. Need to see your set up, your sit bone width, are you using a shimmy, body type because you may have a wide sit bone but have thinner legs or vice versa so that effects nose saddle width.

Thanks for the super informative post, I'll send you something via PM to not clog up this thread unless people are interested in my sizing. I am actually testing a new-to-me bike because a buddy is selling his 2016 Cannondale SuperX Rival and is letting me test it out before buying it. I think the sizing is right, but I definitely feel like I am reaching a little bit more. This new bike and my current one are both 54s.

Also, thanks for the seat height tip Fuzz, I lowered it by about half an inch tonight and didn't have the same issues during my spin.

[squiggs96]

Originally Posted by combustiblefuel

It could be saddle height but it can also be bar height. Over the years I've developed the belief your bar height should be level with your seat. This is the absolute best place to start for comfortable ride. The only excuse to have bars lower is on a race bike in a race . If your bike is a proper size this will not be an issue to acheive.

I know everyone has their personal preference on a bike setup, but telling people to have their saddle the same height as their bar is terrible advice. First off, there is a reason you don't see very many road bikes with this set up. Secondly, you are telling him that without seeing his measurements and/or how he rides. I would never ride with my saddle the same height as my bar. Most people don't. My Cervelo S5 has a handlebar drop (center of saddle profile to bar top grip) of 77 mm and my Chapter2 Huru has a handelbar drop of 92 mm.

My recommendation is to get a bike fitting. A good one is worth far more than what you pay for it, and depending on your bike, can be a small fraction of what you paid for your bike. I've had eight bike fits on five bikes performed by three fitters. I prefer the Retul system. All measurements are taken electronically and emailed to you. It captures your motion with sensors. Now, you obviously have to have a good bike fitter, or the process doesn't work. From doing a Google search there are several Retul fitters in Calgary. I highly recommend going to one that is a cyclist and/or works with a bike shop. There are physiotherapists that do the process, but they have significantly different objectives compared to a person who is a cyclist and/or a cycling coach. If you were in Vancouver I'd give you the name of someone who is excellent. I don't know anyone in Calgary. If I was getting one there I'd look into The Doctrine, Cranked, and Bow Cycle.

[Ironhorse]

I was also going to suggest getting a Retul style bike fit if he is halfway serious about his new hobby (which it sounds like he is). Being comfortable on your bike should be a priority.

I paid around $280 a few years ago at TCR, which has served me very well on my (now two) bikes and was worth every dollar.

[squiggs96]

On saddles, a big help to me was going with a shorter saddle. For a while I used the Fizik Arione saddle that came with my R3. I believe it was 300 mm long. A few years ago I switched to the Special Power Expert which is about 240 mm long. It made such a big difference. I switched to the Power Pro Elaston for my Huru. I'll likely switch this saddle to my S5 and put a more lightweight saddle on my Huru.

My S5 saddle is angled down 3 degrees and my Huru saddle is angled down 2 degrees.

[RichieRich]

Originally Posted by squiggs96

On saddles, a big help to me was going with a shorter saddle. For a while I used the Fizik Arione saddle that came with my R3. I believe it was 300 mm long. A few years ago I switched to the Special Power Expert which is about 240 mm long. It made such a big difference. I switched to the Power Pro Elaston for my Huru. I'll likely switch this saddle to my S5 and put a more lightweight saddle on my Huru.

My S5 saddle is angled down 3 degrees and my Huru saddle is angled down 2 degrees.

Several riding/racing buddies swear by their bike fits - and get them done annually in order to account for anything like age or injury or efficiency or flexibility changes, and often get several bikes checked at once (ie road, mountain, tri). Almost all of them ended up with a shorter-than-stock saddle length and swear by the overall results.


For many years my road bike was a high end Cannondale which I thought was amazing. Two summers ago I switched to a Cervelo R-series and had to make a few changes to my position (had to change stem, bar angle, seat, and seatpost) but the result was super favorable. My gravel bike is similar but more relaxed (plus it's the bike that gets ridden the most often). For the gravel bike since I installed the RedShift suspension stem middle of last summer it made a major difference for hand/shoulder/neck tension plus a lot more fun on the singletrack and gravel roads.

[stazzy33]

Thanks for all the suggestions! I should have mentioned that I am in Edmonton (not by choice, work brought me here) but I looked and there are a few Retul fitters here so I will check into that.

When purchasing a new bike, do you get the fit done first and then select a bike that meets the fit or do you buy a bike and then they fit you to that bike? I am not set on buying my buddy's Cannondale but he is giving me a pretty good deal so if I can make it work, that would be nice