Ask a mechanic thread... Q & A with an ACTUAL mechanic!

[Weitz]

Originally Posted by Fuzz

Depends on the vehicle. When warm air comes out of the vents is a good indication the engine is warm.

Its parked in a garage so its always warm...

[undercoverbrother]

Toto,

How come you account has sat for 8 years without a post?

[Fuzz]

Originally Posted by Weitz

Its parked in a garage so its always warm...

Oh, then you don't need to worry, as long as your garage is warm. Basically when oil is cold it doesn't flow very well, so you want it to warm up and coat things before you jam it. But modern engines in a garage? They are good to go almost right way.

[Weitz]

Originally Posted by Fuzz

Oh, then you don't need to worry, as long as your garage is warm. Basically when oil is cold it doesn't flow very well, so you want it to warm up and coat things before you jam it. But modern engines in a garage? They are good to go almost right way.

Are you a mechanic? There is still a difference between 18 degrees in a garage and normal car temp.

[Fuzz]

I used to work in a shop. But if anyone else wants to chime in... I guess eco-boost could be different. If it was an issue I'm sure it would be in the manual, so you could check there.

[DownhillGoat]

GM product, but looking for some help.

Just installed a truck topper, and need to wire the brake light/dome light. Is there any type of harness that would tee off of the back of the hitch connection? Or alternatively a tee off the brake light harness?

I'm trying to avoid splicing the brake light wiring, and am hoping I can just use a harness of sorts. Not sure if it exists, and google wasn't much help. Next step will be calling the dealer, but hoping to buy something 3rd party.

[Fuzz]

My 2002 S10 has a plug by the tail lights underneath the box. I bought an a adapter that just fit in between for a trailer light plug. I would assume you could still get something like that.

EDIT:
this thing:
http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...cleid=20032557
so you could grab the brake wire and run it to the topper.

[calumniate]

Ok so the wipers on my 91 town car failed this week. When I turn them on I hear a click, but no wiping action! Right now after reading up I'm inclined to think a ground issue, or the 'governor', or I need a wiper motor replacement?

[puffnstuff]

If you can see or get to the wiper motor, give it a whack with a mallet while the wipers are on. Channel your inner Fonzie. The motor can get stuck. Also try wiggling the wiring harness and connector, check for corrosion there as well.

[zamler]

Common failures are worn brushes, corroded connector going to the motor (also can be dried out grease), bad ground, mechanical failure of internal wiring among other things. The wiper mechanisms/pivots themselves could be seized. If you need a new motor search for A-1 CARDONE 40269 or MOTORCRAFT WMV456ARM

[calumniate]

Alright, thanks! Think i can get to the motor by poppimg some clips. Squeaky wheel will get the grease on my first go at it. I believe it is trying to fire.. cheers

[GoinAllTheWay]

I have an 05 Mazda 3. I'm pretty sure I'm overdue to replace the shock absorbers but for $1000, is it worth it? I don't really want to sink that much money into it although I'm sure I'll have it for another year or 2. Anyone do this before and think "man, glad I did that"? Is there a noticeable improvement in the ride?

[Locke]

Originally Posted by calumniate

Ok so the wipers on my 91 town car failed this week. When I turn them on I hear a click, but no wiping action! Right now after reading up I'm inclined to think a ground issue, or the 'governor', or I need a wiper motor replacement?

a '91 Town Car? How is working for the Mafia?

Its probably decent pay and more stability than the Oil Patch these days...

[Finger Cookin]

How often do I really need to have synthetic oil changed?

[ricosuave]

Depending on the brand/weight, I see no reason to change it before 7.5K, maybe taking it as far as 10K, even higher.

I routinely go with 10-12K changes, but I also use a very good synthetic of proper weight in my vehicles.

You can also have an oil analysis done, and by that information, they can recommend a schedule.

[btimbit]

Originally Posted by GoinAllTheWay

I have an 05 Mazda 3. I'm pretty sure I'm overdue to replace the shock absorbers but for $1000, is it worth it? I don't really want to sink that much money into it although I'm sure I'll have it for another year or 2. Anyone do this before and think "man, glad I did that"? Is there a noticeable improvement in the ride?

If they're actually worn then absolutely replace them, you'll notice the difference for sure plus it's a safety issue. But if you're just guessing that you should replace them based on mileage, make sure they are actually worn first. If they aren't quite worn out, even with high mileage, you might not notice any difference at all. So check them out first!

If you aren't mechanically inclined, struts and shocks are an excellent thing to start with and learn how to do since it's a really easy job. Money to be saved too, you said $1000. If you DIY, $430 for good quality parts, or just $350 to just do the fronts (which usually wear out first)

[GoinAllTheWay]

Originally Posted by btimbit

If you aren't mechanically inclined, struts and shocks are an excellent thing to start with and learn how to do since it's a really easy job. Money to be saved too, you said $1000. If you DIY, $430 for good quality parts, or just $350 to just do the fronts (which usually wear out first)

Really? I'm no mechanic but I'm certainly not a stranger to turning a wrench. I assumed this would be a tough job best left for mechanics but if it's relatively straight forward, I'm very open to the idea of doing it myself.

Yes, they are certainly worn. Last time I had to have my tires mounted to rims, the guy said they had very little life left in them (i think he something about a mm or two left before they bottom out?) and with the commute I do daily, I'm not surprised.

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll certainly do some looking into this.

[btimbit]

Originally Posted by GoinAllTheWay

Really? I'm no mechanic but I'm certainly not a stranger to turning a wrench. I assumed this would be a tough job best left for mechanics but if it's relatively straight forward, I'm very open to the idea of doing it myself.

Yes, they are certainly worn. Last time I had to have my tires mounted to rims, the guy said they had very little life left in them (i think he something about a mm or two left before they bottom out?) and with the commute I do daily, I'm not surprised.

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll certainly do some looking into this.

To get you started here's a good vid on looking at struts

Spoiler!

And one on replacing them on a Mazda 3 like yours, to give you an idea of what's involved. Although I will say, keep in mind that I'd be amazed if your bolts came oput as easy as they do in this video.

Spoiler!

[4X4]

Don't forget to have contingency tools on hand, like a torch and a snipe, before you tackle parts that can have nuts and bolts fused together with rust. If it's a really bad day, a sawzall with a metal blade might be necessary. Or an impact. That's the correct tool.

[DownhillGoat]

Originally Posted by 4X4

nuts and bolts fused together with rust.

8 cans of WD40 and a day's worth of soak time worked wonders for my old Buick.