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Old 06-20-2016, 12:06 PM   #61
foshizzle11
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Canadian tire did just have 2 x 40 watt panels on for like $200, which is a pretty good deal. I would imagine you wouldn't need anything else besides your current battery unless you upgraded to 2 6 volt batteries like what blueski posted above. Maybe that would be enough, I don't know how much power is drained from moving the trailer slides in and out.
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Old 06-20-2016, 12:19 PM   #62
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Great advice in the last few posts

Go with two 6v batteries which will greatly increase your bank.
Solar is expensive initially and will probably serve the purpose you are looking for.
A generator is a different animal. They will keep your batteries charged yes but will also provide power to run your TV, air conditioner and microwave. The solar panel will not.

Think about if those appliances are important to you (or if you even have them) and make your decision from there.

Personally I went with two 6v batteries and a Honda 2000 inverter and I am extremely happy. Also..... Put your slide out while connected to your truck, I put out the slide and awning before disconnecting.
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Old 06-20-2016, 12:45 PM   #63
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Yup. I got a new to me fifth wheel this year and put 3 12 volt batteries in it (maybe overkill). Also bought 165 watt solar panel and charge controller from solar wholesalers up on 32 Ave NE. And have the champion 2000 watt generator. Should be able to bug out for a long time!
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Old 06-20-2016, 12:49 PM   #64
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Here's my list again:
Standby Mode:
Secondary 12 volt outlet- 0.6 watts
Stereo and CO detector- 2 watts (Both are on same circuit)

Usage Mode:
1157 LED bulbs- 3.3 watts (each)
921 LED bulbs- 1.1 watts (each)
Stereo playing USB video; volume between 2 to 4- 14 watts
Stereo playing USB video; volume at 12- 18 watts
Furnace motor- 33 watts
RCA 19” TV- 20 watts
Antenna power booster- 1.5 watts
Water pump- 36 watts normally, 48 watts at startup
Water Heater- 8 watts when heating
Fridge- 3.5 watts (constant)

To conserve myself, I only use the water heater when needed. Even fire it up in the morning, then shut it down after. Once the water is pretty warm, it doesn't take long to heat up again. I also use the furnace sparingly, I will run it for a while before bed then drop the temperature. Once everybody is in the trailer you have the body heat that keeps it from dropping too much.

I also upgraded to a 70 watt solar panel from Costco. The 40 watt panel was never a problem, but having that extra bit of power is a nice safety net. This year they had an 80 watt version in store for $180.

As mentioned, generator is handy if you want power for A/C, microwave and other "120 volt only" items. The problem with using one to charge your battery is that you need to run it for a while to actually put enough power back in. With a solar panel it is trickle charging all day long.

I replaced my battery this year (old one was 5 years old.) I looked at going with two 6 volt batteries and decided against it. I feel that having a solar panel is a better option to spend the extra dollars on. I ended up going with a group 31 battery as opposed to a group 27 battery; which has 20% more power. Battery manufacturers are steering people away from Amp Hours as a way to rate batteries, but I still like it as it allows for you to do your own math. Basically a group 27 battery will give you 100 amp hours. Group 31 will give you 120. Having two 6 volt batteries will give you 240, but then again so will two group 31 batteries.

The other thing to watch is when you are measuring your battery. A fully charged battery will show about 12.6 volts. Run the furnace or water pump and it will show 10.5 to 11 volts when running. Check it again right after shutting off the furnace and you will only see 11.5 volts. However if you use very little power for the next 30 minutes, the battery will show 12.55 volts. That is also why I use an actual power meter, and do not rely on the sensor that is with your tank levels.
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Old 06-20-2016, 02:43 PM   #65
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Heading up north in this guy:
http://www.fraserway.com/rentals/veh...mall-motorhome
It's a V8 E350. Just curios what my fuel mileage will be. Anyone have something similar?

Also this talk of power usage has me wondering. We will be camped for 2-3 days at a time. Will I need shore power, or will I be OK off batteries?
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Old 06-20-2016, 03:52 PM   #66
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Motor vehicles should have a minimum range of 600 km. That shows a 151 L tank, so at least 25L/100 km.

As for power, I'm not familiar exactly with how a motorhome provides power, but I'd think that worst case scenario you could run the engine if the batteries get low. I also think it's a good idea for novice RV users to get a site with power if possible; just to eliminate any doubt.

Worst case, double check when you pick up the rental and ask if the battery for the truck portion is independent of the battery for the RV. I think it should be.
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Old 06-20-2016, 04:25 PM   #67
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Thanks. I've used my dad's camper van before and it had an isolated second battery. I'd hope something like this does. I know some places we are going have power, but there are certainly a few that won't. Kind of middle of nowhere up in the Yukon! Given the lack of dark we shouldn't be using to many lights, the fridge shouldn't have to work to hard and I'll avoid the heater as much as my wife allows....
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Old 08-04-2016, 10:12 AM   #68
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Does anyone know the cheapest place to do a 30# propane tank exchange?

Found lots of places that do the 20# but not the 30#
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:38 PM   #69
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Well I'm in the market for a new RV now.....
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Any suggestions on a good dealer? We are looking for a bunkhouse again in the 26-29 ft range.
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:42 PM   #70
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Wow, hope everyone is ok. What happened?
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:50 PM   #71
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Quote:
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Does anyone know the cheapest place to do a 30# propane tank exchange?

Found lots of places that do the 20# but not the 30#
Check Fill n go on Edmonton trail and 38ish Ave.
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:39 PM   #72
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Wow, hope everyone is ok. What happened?
Yea all good thankfully. I swerved from a vehicle in the shoulder that startled me as I was checking to change lanes and started to skid.....
Truck stayed upright.
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:45 PM   #73
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Does anyone know the cheapest place to do a 30# propane tank exchange?

Found lots of places that do the 20# but not the 30#

I have swapped a 30# tank at Superior Propane before, on Blackfoot Tr S, south of 42 Ave. They refurb a lot of tanks, not sure if they are the cheapest however.
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:57 PM   #74
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Doesn't Costco exchange 30# tanks? They are far and away the cheapest option I've ever found for propane.
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Old 08-04-2016, 03:06 PM   #75
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Yea all good thankfully. I swerved from a vehicle in the shoulder that startled me as I was checking to change lanes and started to skid.....
Truck stayed upright.
That sucks but it is nice that you didn't roll the truck. A buddy of mine rolled his SUV and trailer last year on Scott Lake Hill. They had just got a new trailer and were taking it out for the first time. A big gust of wind on the hill took them off the road.
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Old 08-29-2016, 10:19 PM   #76
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Anyone ever done a floor repair in an RV? A trailer popped up for sale that fits the style/weight I am looking for, but there's a soft spot in the bathroom and discoloured lino from a previous leak. Is a soft floor in an RV something to stay away from or can it be fixed with some time and effort?
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Old 08-30-2016, 08:56 AM   #77
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Anyone ever done a floor repair in an RV? A trailer popped up for sale that fits the style/weight I am looking for, but there's a soft spot in the bathroom and discoloured lino from a previous leak. Is a soft floor in an RV something to stay away from or can it be fixed with some time and effort?
i rebuilt the entire first third of the floor in the RV i bought this spring. it is not an easy job but not to bad either. will try and upload some pictures.
soft floor usually means a leak in the roof and running down the walls (inside or out) so i would look for soft spots in the walls as well.
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Old 08-30-2016, 08:58 AM   #78
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i rebuilt the entire first third of the floor in the RV i bought this spring. it is not an easy job but not to bad either. will try and upload some pictures.
soft floor usually means a leak in the roof and running down the walls (inside or out) so i would look for soft spots in the walls as well.
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Old 08-30-2016, 09:00 AM   #79
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Old 08-30-2016, 09:02 AM   #80
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