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Old 12-13-2015, 07:44 PM   #741
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I think you will need a gas fitter to pull a permit and do the work. The only thing you can do is hook up a flex house to the appliance, as far as I know.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:18 AM   #742
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You could install the unit (beefing up hangars, etc), but I'd leave the gas line, connections, etc, to the pros. Risk isn't worth the savings, especially on a heater that will be thousands.
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:39 AM   #743
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I have a very squeaky door in my house. Is it just as simple as shooting some WD 40 at the hinges or is there an actual technique to fix that?
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Old 12-14-2015, 08:53 AM   #744
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Are you on the Festool bandwagon too? I only have a Festool drill, but man is it well built stuff. I keep trying to find excuses to buy more of their product lineup, but with their prices and without really needing anything, it's hard to justify, ha.

Completely on board. Last week I spend 7 hrs using my power sander in my clients living room and only had a tea bags worth of dust to clean up in the end.

It is a serious punch to the gut to get into them but they are beyond worth it.
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Old 12-14-2015, 09:20 AM   #745
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I have a very squeaky door in my house. Is it just as simple as shooting some WD 40 at the hinges or is there an actual technique to fix that?
I just spend Saturday fixing squeaks on doors and cabinets, I used a silicon spray lube. It's not greasy like WD-40. Worked very well, though can't report on longevity.
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Old 12-14-2015, 09:23 AM   #746
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I have a very squeaky door in my house. Is it just as simple as shooting some WD 40 at the hinges or is there an actual technique to fix that?
I had one of those for years, it was never a priority until the new baby moved into that room...

Took the pins out and put WD40 on them, and its good. Might as well try it, takes <10 minutes and is easy.
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Old 12-14-2015, 10:09 AM   #747
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You don't even need to pull the pins out. WD-40 is good at penetrating between crevices.

Just keep a paper towel handy to wipe up any excess and WD-40 would do the trick.
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Old 12-14-2015, 10:55 AM   #748
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I just spend Saturday fixing squeaks on doors and cabinets, I used a silicon spray lube. It's not greasy like WD-40. Worked very well, though can't report on longevity.
This will last much longer than WD40 is my experience.
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Old 12-15-2015, 09:21 AM   #749
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I have a very squeaky door in my house. Is it just as simple as shooting some WD 40 at the hinges or is there an actual technique to fix that?
WD 40 will work...temporarily, it can also drip and make a mess. If you want a better fix you'll want to take out the pins (one at a time) clean the pin/hinge and coat it with white lithium grease.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.3...000457762.html
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Old 12-19-2015, 10:59 AM   #750
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I changed the bulb on a motion-sensor light and now it doesn't work. I've tried a couple of different bulbs and they both work on different motion-sensor lights but not in this particular one. I haven't changed the sensitivity setting. Any ideas why this light stopped working?
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Old 12-19-2015, 11:50 AM   #751
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Have you tried cutting and restoring power to it? Either a light switch or at the breaker.
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Old 12-19-2015, 12:05 PM   #752
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I changed the bulb on a motion-sensor light and now it doesn't work. I've tried a couple of different bulbs and they both work on different motion-sensor lights but not in this particular one. I haven't changed the sensitivity setting. Any ideas why this light stopped working?
Totally depends on the bulb and the fixture. As those fixtures have specific wattage ratings it's very important to match the wattage of the old bulb or the ones that work. Some motion sensor lights also have a gradual brightening/dimming features which will not work with certain bulbs (compact fluorescent specifically).
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Old 12-20-2015, 09:51 AM   #753
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It is a serious punch to the gut to get into them but they are beyond worth it.
I just got a letter from Lee Valley on Friday that Festool products will be going up about 10% in the new year (I'm assuming on account of the crappy dollar). So if you need something now, get it before that punch to the guy gets even bigger!
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:06 PM   #754
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Ok... here's a question "for a friend".

He is developing his basement without permits.

What is the punishment if the basement is finished and then the city finds out about the development? Is there any retro-active inspection that can be done without ripping all the walls down? How does all this affect insurance?
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:17 PM   #755
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I think it would cause some pain when trying to sell the house.

My friend had just purchased a house that didn't have a permit for the basement work done, and he made sure the owner got the work checked out and permitted after the fact. There was some wall ripping, but nothing huge, as I recall.

I guess for insurance purposes, it might be better to get it checked out sooner than later.
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:46 PM   #756
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I was told if you have unpermitted work done, they can deny insurance claims. Is it just electrical that would be an issue? Or are you running gas as well? Oh, I think the city likes to hit you with more property taxes too, I'm not sure if they would try to retroactively collect.
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Old 12-20-2015, 02:49 PM   #757
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I was told if you have unpermitted work done, they can deny insurance claims. Is it just electrical that would be an issue? Or are you running gas as well? Oh, I think the city likes to hit you with more property taxes too, I'm not sure if they would try to retroactively collect.
Many municipalities will double the permitting fee but it doesn't affect property taxes. I don't know about Calgary. The biggest problem may be the insurance risk.
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Old 12-20-2015, 02:58 PM   #758
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Quote:
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Have you tried cutting and restoring power to it? Either a light switch or at the breaker.
Yes, I did that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PaperBagger'14 View Post
Totally depends on the bulb and the fixture. As those fixtures have specific wattage ratings it's very important to match the wattage of the old bulb or the ones that work. Some motion sensor lights also have a gradual brightening/dimming features which will not work with certain bulbs (compact fluorescent specifically).
I'll check this.
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Old 12-20-2015, 03:05 PM   #759
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Thinking about tackling the poly in my garage this week before Christmas. Do I need to seal it at all if the common wall and roof are already done? Or just punch some staples in and call it a day?
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Old 12-20-2015, 03:46 PM   #760
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Overlap the existing and run some acoustic sealant between the overlap, then staple, is the code I believe. That or overlap and fold the edge, then staple.
However, most people for a garage, especially the surfaces not shared with a house, just staple and tuck tape the seams.
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