Asbestos abatement and removal.

[sa226]

I recently bought a reno project condo in a complex that was built in the 60's

Apparently there is asbestos under the old linoleum flooring. I was originally just going to cover the linoleum, but when I started ripping up other things like the tracks on folding doors, it ripped up part of the linoleum, so its borderline impossible to prepare the linoleum to be covered.

I guess what I'm asking is if anybody has any recommendations or experience with an asbestos situation like this, potential costs et al. Its only about 100 square feet of linoleum.

Thanks.

[OMG!WTF!]

I think you should still be able to go over top depending on what you are using for flooring. And it also depends if it is a sheet of lino or those 12 x 12 squares.

If you're using laminate or hardwood flooring the missing lino shouldn't be a big deal. Long boards will likely cover those spots. If you want, get some Plani-patch to level and fill the missing lino areas.... http://www.mapei.com/public/COM/prod...tch_TDS_EA.pdf

Or, what would be best, is to install a 3/8 plywood subfloor over top of the existing lino. Of course it adds height to the floor but if you can make it work that is the best. Laminate would be easy to install and tile might be ok if you have a total subfloor of 1 1/8 inches.

The condo board will probably require special sound proof underlayment if you use hardwood or laminate to be aware of that.

If you want to tile and you have sufficient subflooring and it is sheet lino, you could go over top of the lino with a layer of Ditra. It is only 1/8 think so doesn't add much height. You have to be certain to use the right mortar to attach it though. I think it would be the unmodified mortar for between two non porous surfaces.

I'd probably not bother with removal and remediation.

[sa226]

Thats some good info. Thanks. The more I thought about it, the more i think that I can cover it. I just think that I most likely disturbed some of the fibers when I lifted the floor tracks.

[OMG!WTF!]

What are you going to use for flooring? Also, if you're worried about removing a bit more on your own, you can spray glue onto it to catch the fibers. You can get a can of spray glue at HD. Obviously not recommended but it's likely not a huge deal anyway.

[sa226]

Probably going to use vinyl plank flooring or vinyl tile where the linoleum is currently.

You seem to know what you are talking about, so I will ask another question: The bathroom is close to the entrance, so I want to have the same continuous flooring for the entrance and bathroom. The entrance has the lino that will be covered, but the bathroom just had small tile with no known risk of asbestos, so I removed it down to the concrete. This obviously creates a mismatch in the heights of two adjoining floors. What is the best way to elevate the bathroom floor so that it is matched with the entrance?

[OMG!WTF!]

I don't think those vinyl plank products have matching reducers so if not you can just get a wood or laminate reducer from a hardwood supplier to put at the transition point. You can get a color that's probably pretty close to the vinyl you're using.

Actually I just assumed it was a wood subfloor. Since it's concrete you could use a self leveling product to get a perfect transition if you wanted. (reducers are hard to attach to concrete) The leveler alters your toilet a bit but nothing major. And it's not that expnsive. Just know that self leveling products are not really self leveling. You have to pour it and spread it evenly. That's likely what I'd do in this case.

[sa226]

Thanks again.

I'm not sure that the plywood subfloor over the lino is the greatest idea. I would still need to secure the plywood and that means securing it to the concrete and that means drilling many holes into the concrete. Can I just use the planipatch over the whole area of lino and then an underlayment of some sort?

I like the idea of covering it with plywood, but securing the plywood properly to the concrete seems like a problem, as well as moisture issues with the plywood.

[OMG!WTF!]

Oh yeah, don't use plywood now. I assumed you had a wood subfloor. Concrete is totally different. So the Planipatch specifications say do not us over asbestos tile. But that is probably just because they have to cover themselves for liability and suggest you have it removed by professionals. People use it to cover normal lino all the time. So yes, if the lino is securely attached, I would cover it all with Plani patch and then you would be fine to use any flooring you want. For the vinyl plank you won't need any further underlayment. You have to work fairly quickly with the Planipatch and mix properly. Use the "milk" or bonding agent in proper amounts. But that should give you a nice finish fo whatever you want for flooring.

One thing though is that vinyl plank flooring is somewhat prone to water damage. I used it in several apartment bathrooms and some of them got water underneath and bubbled up. It's totally water proof but if people dump lots of water on top or the toilet floods or something it will find its way undeneath and cause a problem. If you are flipping, it will likely do the job. It's much easier to install than tile. However tile is likely (or can be) cheaper, looks better and lasts longer. Might be worth a try since you will have the perfect sub floor.

[photon]

They have those self leveling floor compounds as well, I did a bathroom with some kind of cement based stuff and it was impossible to work with, when they say fast setting they meant it, I could hardly get it mixed before it started to set, took me 3 tries to do a tiny bathroom and I ended up with two ruined buckets filled solid with the stuff lol.

[iggy_oi]

If this is just a bathroom you could do the removal yourself. Get a mask, goggles and some coveralls. Remove anything that isn't attached to the walls or floor. Seal the door and vents with some plastic from the inside, make sure you have big garbage bags in there before you start, rip everything out, put it in the trash. Wipe down all the surfaces and throw anything else that was in there including your coveralls in the trash. Tie the trash bag shut and you're all set. Important to note, if you need to exit the room at any time be sure to allow any particles in the air to settle and take off your coveralls before opening the door and exiting the room.

This is a fairly simple project if it is just a bathroom since it's very easy to contain everything and clean after.

Still if you are able to level it out and install your flooring obviously do that, but if you can't and are willing to do the removal yourself instead of getting an asbestos removal company to do it you'll end up saving a ton of money. And when I say you'll save a ton, I mean enough to buy a pair of scalped tickets to games 3 and 4 this week lol, asbestos removal ain't cheap

[sa226]

Thanks guys.

I have already ripped up the bathroom floor, it is those small quarter sized tiles. I was told there isn't any asbestos in it, but I kind of have my suspicions. Too late now. Isn't "self" asbestos removal technically illegal anyway? The lino with asbestos in it is in the entrance and kitchen.

I was going to go with vinyl plank because I figured it is the best for look, ease of install and bathroom water proofing, but now you say that it is prone to water damage. Would vinyl tile be better? Or even laminate for the bathroom? I really don't want to do ceramic tile for the floor. Or maybe I could change my planned setup to accommodate it.

Photon, do you remember what brand of floor leveling compound that was? So I can most certainly avoid it. I'm definitely going to be using that over the concrete in the bathroom.

[RW99]

If the lino was fairly intact and you weren't kicking up anything into the air, you should be fine. Small amounts of lino that is removed by hand is a low risk abatement.

[photon]

I think it was this stuff:

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/skim...t1134kg/921794

[OMG!WTF!]

Originally Posted by sa226

Thanks guys.

I have already ripped up the bathroom floor, it is those small quarter sized tiles. I was told there isn't any asbestos in it, but I kind of have my suspicions. Too late now. Isn't "self" asbestos removal technically illegal anyway? The lino with asbestos in it is in the entrance and kitchen.

I was going to go with vinyl plank because I figured it is the best for look, ease of install and bathroom water proofing, but now you say that it is prone to water damage. Would vinyl tile be better? Or even laminate for the bathroom? I really don't want to do ceramic tile for the floor. Or maybe I could change my planned setup to accommodate it.

Photon, do you remember what brand of floor leveling compound that was? So I can most certainly avoid it. I'm definitely going to be using that over the concrete in the bathroom.

I'd say vinyl of any type is still your second best choice to actual tile. A third choice would be engineered wood. And I would not consider laminate of any kind. So, tile, sheet vinyl, plank or tile vinyl, engineered wood. A different option I've used before is a polyaspartic or epoxy coating....like you see in show rooms, garages, kind of like a smooth concrete look. It's about $7 a foot but they would also do the leveling and subfloor prep. They also go over existing vinyl with it....

http://www.flexmarpolyaspartics.com/residential.html

I haven't used these guys but the company I did use, adds a non slip ingredient for bathrooms.

[sa226]

I'm going to bump this thread to ask another question that has to do with the linoleum.

I have finished laying my laminate floors. Now I am running into a flooring height issue.

The laminate I have installed is pretty thick stuff (1.53cm). The kitchen has the old lino with asbestos under it so I just want to cover it. I want to cover the lino in the kitchen with the floating vinyl plank flooring. With the vinyl plank installed I am still going to have a big height difference where the living room laminate transitions to the kitchen vinyl plank.

My question is: Can I install 1/4" or 1/2" plywood on top of the linoleum which is on top of concrete to raise the floor? The linoleum is quite well secured, can I use that construction glue stuff to glue the plywood down to the linoleum and then lay the vinyl plank on top of that? I would rather not have to tap screw to the concrete.

This is a 4th floor condo with concrete slab, the original parquet floors were glued directly to the concrete and they stood up quite well, so I don't think moisture is a big issue.

Basically I want to know if I can confidently glue plywood to the linoleum to raise the subfloor? Or is something like Dricore better?

Thanks

[OMG!WTF!]

You would for sure have to screw down any plywood subfloor. However it's not a great idea having concrete and plywood touching anyway, even in a 4th floor condo. And using tapcons is annoying. Dricore is the perfect solution except that it would add too much height...7/8's. I've not seen it done this way, but you could probably use 4x8x1/2 inch tongue and groove osb to create a floating subfloor. People use this on top of rigid foam in basements, so it should be fine although it is still wood touching concrete. -- It's overkill but the best solution is probably back to Ditra. You can get the exact height you want and you would be set for tile as well. It's easy to install too.

[lorenavedon]

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...ring-underlay/

Thickness: 5/64″, 3/16″ and 3/8″

so you have options how high you want to go. That way you don't have to screw into concrete.

[sa226]

Thanks guys.
I think I have it narrowed down to two different options, which are roughly the same price. Ditra is pretty thin and quite expensive.

Lowes has a "Amdry" subfloor that is 19/32 thick and then 4mm vinyl plank on top of that would pretty much match the height. I'm just not sure if I need an underlayment between the vinyl plank and the OSB of the Amdry subfloor?

Or

I can get 1/4 inch cork sheets and then install 10mm laminate on top of that which would leave about 3mm difference on height. Not perfect, but pretty good.

Any thoughts on which would be better?

Thanks again for the advice.