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Old 06-09-2014, 09:01 PM   #1421
combustiblefuel
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So I bought tools and supplies to do some maintenance on the bike. I think I am going to get a new fork soon too, willing to spend $500. The old Rockshox Judy C's are durable as hell but I'd like to do an upgrade with something better but also equally durable. To me durability is number one, I want my bike to last another decade.
Ya Judy's were never that durable. Getting anything new will be at least $300. What are you planning on the bike to be used as? If its a commuter you'd only need 2 to 3 inches of travel tops. If it is just to get around you could go fatter tires and a rigid fork which would spread that $500 dollars a lot farther. Is their a bike co-op in Calgary anymore? That 500 would replace everything if their is. We have two here Recyclistias and Bicycleitis. All used parts are 6 bucks each no matter how old or new the parts are.
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:28 PM   #1422
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There is kind of one at Eau Claire but I'm not sure if they sell parts, a cheap Manitou fork would be great. The only thing I'm unsure of is if the head tube needs a very specific kind of fork, the manual I found says it has a 1 1/8" threadless Aheadset SE-1 but nothing more really. Also probably going to put disc breaks on it eventually and repaint it mostly black because a lot of the paint is chipped. Thanks for the help


The bike I'm working on:

http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/B...itai&Type=bike

The aluminum frame is so well built it's worth keeping over buying a new one. Also this is the kind of fork I'd put on if they fit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-2014-Man...item540a7b14d6

Used for some trail riding with a lot of riding around Calgary going from the NW to SW regularly

Another fork:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-2014-SR-...algo=undefined

Last edited by AcGold; 06-09-2014 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 06-09-2014, 09:50 PM   #1423
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There is kind of one at Eau Claire but I'm not sure if they sell parts, a cheap Manitou fork would be great. The only thing I'm unsure of is if the head tube needs a very specific kind of fork, the manual I found says it has a 1 1/8" threadless Aheadset SE-1 but nothing more really. Also probably going to put disc breaks on it eventually and repaint it mostly black because a lot of the paint is chipped. Thanks for the help


The bike I'm working on:

http://www.bikepedia.com/quickbike/B...itai&Type=bike

The aluminum frame is so well built it's worth keeping over buying a new one. Also this is the kind of fork I'd put on if they fit

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-2014-Man...item540a7b14d6

Used for some trail riding with a lot of riding around Calgary going from the NW to SW regularly

Another fork:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-2014-SR-...algo=undefined
Yup you will need a 1 1/8 fork thread less fork . You can use a threaded but I don't recommend it. You have to get a new stem and headset.. You could get frame reducers and a 1 inch fork. You will nees to measure the headtube lenght that houses your headset and forks to make sure the steer tube is long enough for your frame. Manitous are OKThey have never screamed quality tho unless you shell out over $800. You could get a nicer marzocchi fork used for the same price. STAY AWAY FROM ANYTHING SUNTOUR!!! they are cheap Chinese knockoff brand. As for Disc Brakes a pair of Avid bb7's mechanical disc brakes with a 180mm rotor would be more than enough for you. No need to go hydraulic for simple commuting .

Edit: the headset Se mention is the brand and model . Brand A headset model. SE-1

If you want I'm friends with the owners of Recycleistias and Bicycleitis her In Victoria here . I can do some scouting their if you send me a list of parts you would need. It would be way cheaper for you. Send me a pm if you would like. If yoi could send me a p.m of your bike I would be able too get a better feel of what. Your working with. Also check out www.Ratrodbikes.com for some inspiration.

Last edited by combustiblefuel; 06-09-2014 at 10:18 PM.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:37 PM   #1424
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Hey guys. If you like cool bikes check out club. Angels Chopper bicycle club. We are a Registered Non for profit youth/child mentorship group. We have built bikes for Ozzy to snoop Dogg. We teach life /Trade skills. Welding,Machining to airbrushing check us oit at we.acbcbikes.com or https://www.facebook.com/AngelsChopp...oms?fref=photo

Marty the Marmot with the bike we had the kids build for the Royals and "The Jewel" made for Gene Simmons



beginning of the Victoria day parade


Edit you can't see the fender strutson the Royal bike but they are mini hockey sticks.

Last edited by combustiblefuel; 06-10-2014 at 02:29 AM.
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Old 06-09-2014, 10:58 PM   #1425
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pic Of Zone Zilla a bike the kids made for The Zone 98 here in Victoria

The light on the Gas tank is a real cop light donated by VicPd. The guitar was signed and donated by Tommy Lee of Montley Crue


Last edited by combustiblefuel; 06-10-2014 at 03:39 AM.
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Old 06-10-2014, 02:32 AM   #1426
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My "electric" or my everyday ride . Nondrive side. Its a few months old this photo but Practically looks the same. Have added a rear render and sissy bar since.

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Old 06-10-2014, 08:00 AM   #1427
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^ i'd reckon it's been 40 odd years since i heard the term sissy bar........not really my style of bikes; however, I can appreciate the craftsmanship and work that went into building them up......
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:15 AM   #1428
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Yeah, not really my style of bike but there's a lot of workmanship that goes into them and the group seems like a great idea to help kids.
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:17 AM   #1429
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Also probably going to put disc breaks on it eventually
Keep in mind you won't have mounting points for the rear discs. You need some welding done, so probably not worth it. If you get a fork with disc mounts you can have a disc up front.
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:04 AM   #1430
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So I'm going to get a new fork, the old one is pretty dead. I measured the head tube(the strictly aluminum part) and it's exactly 5''. Here are some images
http://i.imgur.com/ZVWXQB0.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/iwbgAqx.jpg]


what will I need to make something like this fit? a new stem and head set? Do they usually come with the fork?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-2014-Man...item540a7b14d6
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Old 06-10-2014, 11:26 AM   #1431
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That will work with your headset, it's 1-1/8". Your stem should be fine too (can't see your images at work, but I'm assuming it's a clamp style 1-1/8" stem).

The important part is stack height. If the steerer on the fork is too short you are screwed. It is likely fine, as 5" isn't an extreme steer tube length like some old bikes with threaded headsets had. Measure your existing steerer on the fork (top of the crown to the top of the steerer where it sits inside or above the stem) and as long as you are less than the steerer length for that fork, it should work. I don't expect any problems.
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Old 06-10-2014, 12:24 PM   #1432
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if you are going to put a new fork on there, may want to consider replacing the headset.......
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Old 06-10-2014, 01:50 PM   #1433
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You may also need to fit the crown race on it - that fork looks bare. I didn't have a tool (I think somebody on here does though), but I took my fork and crown race over to MEC and they put it on for me for no charge. If you don't have a tool, don't try it yourself.
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Old 06-10-2014, 02:20 PM   #1434
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You may also need to fit the crown race on it - that fork looks bare. I didn't have a tool (I think somebody on here does though), but I took my fork and crown race over to MEC and they put it on for me for no charge. If you don't have a tool, don't try it yourself.
Good point.

It's not too bad to remove/reinstall the race on your own though.

You can be really careful with a sharp flathead screwdriver or pound some utility knife blades in one by one with a hammer to pop the race off.

To put it on the new fork, there is a size of PVC pipe that fits perfectly. Tape it up a bunch one the end to keep it from disintegrating, and hammer the race down with the pipe. You might have to cut the pipe down a couple times as it gets bashed up.

Easier than pressing in a new headset without a press, but can be done with a threaded rod and a bunch of brass plumbing parts and washers.
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Old 06-10-2014, 02:57 PM   #1435
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Keep in mind you won't have mounting points for the rear discs. You need some welding done, so probably not worth it. If you get a fork with disc mounts you can have a disc up front.
You can't re weld on aluminum frames. You would take the annealing (heat treatment) off. When you heat it up aluminum loses its strength. Not worth it as you'd have to use a gig welder then re treat it.

He could use a mount tho like this.

Last edited by combustiblefuel; 06-10-2014 at 04:44 PM.
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Old 06-10-2014, 03:53 PM   #1436
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Good point.

It's not too bad to remove/reinstall the race on your own though.

You can be really careful with a sharp flathead screwdriver or pound some utility knife blades in one by one with a hammer to pop the race off.

To put it on the new fork, there is a size of PVC pipe that fits perfectly. Tape it up a bunch one the end to keep it from disintegrating, and hammer the race down with the pipe. You might have to cut the pipe down a couple times as it gets bashed up.

Easier than pressing in a new headset without a press, but can be done with a threaded rod and a bunch of brass plumbing parts and washers.
Oh yeah. It can be done without bike tools. The hard part (for me) was getting it started so that it goes straight down. Mine wasn't going down straight, it kind of took on a a bit of a skew; rather than risk mangling it, I just took it to MEC.

DIY for the rest of the headset wasn't bad (for me) though. There are enough resources on the web to figure things out and make your own tools for pressing the head tubes or installing the star nut in the fork.
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Old 06-10-2014, 07:52 PM   #1437
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Oh yeah. It can be done without bike tools. The hard part (for me) was getting it started so that it goes straight down. Mine wasn't going down straight, it kind of took on a a bit of a skew; rather than risk mangling it, I just took it to MEC.

DIY for the rest of the headset wasn't bad (for me) though. There are enough resources on the web to figure things out and make your own tools for pressing the head tubes or installing the star nut in the fork.
Quite easy with out the use of the net. Just need a long enough piece of 1 1/2 diameter pipe and hammer for the race crown . and a punch for the star but.
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:30 PM   #1438
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A decent set of disc brakes (shimano slx)will run you about $110, and icetech discs will be $40 each, plus you will need new hubs to mount the discs.

This is now getting to new bike territory........
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Old 06-10-2014, 10:36 PM   #1439
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Well I completely took the bike apart, getting the bottom bracket off was a complete nightmare. Got it undone eventually and put in a new bottom bracket as it was completely shot, unbelievable how dirty the inside of the bracket hub was, dozens of towels and it just kept being dirty.

Cleaned up the whole thing, put on new brakes and new pedals. Going to get a new fork in a week or two, disc breaks, paint it and then it's good to go. I know a new bike is tempting but I've spent $200 on all the tools and pieces so far and another $500 to get the exact bike I want is worth it if it gives me another decade or two of transportation. Don't know if it's possible to get as durable a bike for the same $500 as a new fork and discs. Thanks for the help guys. I'll post a picture of the fork, stem and headset I have when I get them together to see what I need to do. Cheers

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Old 06-10-2014, 11:10 PM   #1440
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I rode out in West Bragg today. Ranger summit, strange brew, boundary ridge. Excellent condition.

I have a crown race setter you can use.
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