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Old 01-10-2014, 12:41 PM   #41
FireFly
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The house I'm renting was built poorly. Almost half of our electrical outlets only work on one side. Is this something easy to fix? Just replace the outlet or will I have to dig deeper into the issue?
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Old 01-10-2014, 12:53 PM   #42
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We have a leaky eavestrough above our garage door. It's causing water to pool on the concrete apron and the first foot into the garage. I'd like to fix the problem, is there any sealer I can apply in this weather that will bond properly?

I beleive there is but the name/brand escapes me atm. Just go to one of Rona or Home Depot and take a look in the cauling section. Should be some cold weather applications in there.
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Old 01-10-2014, 01:15 PM   #43
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The house I'm renting was built poorly. Almost half of our electrical outlets only work on one side. Is this something easy to fix? Just replace the outlet or will I have to dig deeper into the issue?
As in only top or bottom ?

There should be a small metal tab connecting the two sets of screws to provide power to both sets of plugs.

If that is gone you will need to replace the plugs or install a screw - screw jumper on each side.
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Old 01-10-2014, 01:36 PM   #44
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I've got a general question I'll put out to the CP braintrust.
Every time I make coffee in my french press, I just flush the grinds down the kitchen sink. I'll do it before I wash up, so there is a bunch of water that flushes down the drain after the grinds are dumped. The house is 60 years old, but the plumbing was updated in the last 20ish years.
Some things I've read say that the grinds are gritty enough to help 'scrub the pipes as they pass, and that it is actually good for the drains.
Other people think this will eventually clog the drain.

The drain has never shown any sign of draining slowly or backing up.

Thoughts?
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Old 01-10-2014, 01:50 PM   #45
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I can't see grinds being any worse than hair, but I always throw mine out.

I imagine some draino would fix a slow flow or back up should it ever happen.
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Old 01-10-2014, 01:51 PM   #46
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As in only top or bottom ?

There should be a small metal tab connecting the two sets of screws to provide power to both sets of plugs.

If that is gone you will need to replace the plugs or install a screw - screw jumper on each side.
I would also wonder if there is a switch that controls one-half of the outlet if it were wired separately. I did that with a few that I was using solely for floor lamps or where we regularly put our indoor Xmas lights.
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Old 01-10-2014, 03:11 PM   #47
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Under the category of things I am sure you already are aware of; this would be an excellent use of a non-contact voltage tester.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/ci...-0520085p.html
I've actually got one of those kicking around. I tried to use it briefly to diagnose before, but it's a pain when a bunch of wires are close together. I think it's time to properly take things apart and figure it out.
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Old 01-10-2014, 03:45 PM   #48
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Not sure this is the best place for this but why not.

Does anyone with a hot tub have a remote sensor they use to monitor the water temp. I hate going outside in a blizzard to make sure the hot tub is working. Any suggestions?
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Old 01-10-2014, 04:20 PM   #49
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Is it close enough to a window for this to be useful?
http://dx.com/p/1-5-lcd-digital-indo...-x-lr44-148170
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:33 PM   #50
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This will be the hard part when the fixture isn't working... haha. One of those times a wire tester isn't optional.
Just turn off the switch if you're going to remove the fixture, and you wont get zapped. If it's a three way switch, and you're not sure if it's off, the electrocution from 110 isn't bad. I know that sounds really stupid, but trust me, it doesn't hurt at all. It's like the 9-volt on the tongue, but it's on your finger.

My guess is that the light fixture is f***ed. Just go to HD and buy a new one. $20. They're that cheap because they're really cheaply made in China, so it's not surprising that it's only working intermittently.
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:59 PM   #51
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The shock from 120vac isn't as bad as some people make it out to be. Make sure not to short anything though, you can get nasty burns.
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:23 PM   #52
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Is it close enough to a window for this to be useful?
http://dx.com/p/1-5-lcd-digital-indo...-x-lr44-148170
Unfortunately it is not. Needs about 15ft. Wondering if a wireless solutions exists.
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:30 PM   #53
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Unfortunately it is not. Needs about 15ft. Wondering if a wireless solutions exists.
We have a wireless thermostat for our gas fireplace. Not really a solution, but maybe an avenue to explore. May also be some meat thermometers that are wireless with the range you need.
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:01 PM   #54
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Not sure this is the best place for this but why not.

Does anyone with a hot tub have a remote sensor they use to monitor the water temp. I hate going outside in a blizzard to make sure the hot tub is working. Any suggestions?
http://www.homedepot.com/p/AcuRite-W...BA2/202260979#
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:31 PM   #55
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Interesting...I've been thinking about doing a reno on my kitchen (cabinets, countertops) and bathroom (sinks, tub, tile, electrical fixture, cabinetry) - are you a contactor?
Yes I am...but I live in St. Albert and work in the Edmonton (shudder) area...
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Old 01-11-2014, 11:43 AM   #56
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Any tips on the easiest best way to cover and/or fill holes in the wall (old mounting holes that I've since removed the TV mount from)?
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Old 01-11-2014, 12:01 PM   #57
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Any tips on the easiest best way to cover and/or fill holes in the wall (old mounting holes that I've since removed the TV mount from)?
This method works well: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-...051832,00.html

Alternatively, you can just buy a metal drywall patch at Home Depot/Lowes and do drywall compound over it. Do thin coats. Personally, I like the CGC compound.
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Old 01-12-2014, 01:20 AM   #58
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This will be the hard part when the fixture isn't working... haha. One of those times a wire tester isn't optional.
To disconnect the light from the power source without finding the breaker, hit the test button on the gfci plug below it. That will trip the gfci and make the light safe to handle. I would go as far as to remove both the black and white wires that supply power to the fixture from the marettes and the equipment wires to the light. After the wires are moved a safe distance from any metal surface (and only if you feel 100% comfortable!!!) hit the reset button on the gfci and take a multimeter AC voltage reading. You should see voltage in the 118-122 ish range. If that is the case, hit test on the gfci again and redo the splices.
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Old 01-12-2014, 03:25 PM   #59
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Yes I am...but I live in St. Albert and work in the Edmonton (shudder) area...
I live in Edmonton too...I will PM you when I get closer to go time.
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Old 01-12-2014, 05:45 PM   #60
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Unfortunately it is not. Needs about 15ft. Wondering if a wireless solutions exists.

Pure speculation, but you might want to try a pet store that specializes in outdoor ponds. I suspect that they would have similar issues for those people who keep their pond full year round.

No idea if they have a solution, but you might want to call Henry at Natures Corner Store. http://www.naturescornerstore.com/pond.html Henry has been a speaker on pond installation at some show if I recall correctly. If it exists, I suspect Henry will know.
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