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Old 07-21-2012, 09:08 AM   #81
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You may also be able to adjust the latch so it catches better. Also, make sure the trailer is as level as possible when you set up and that the door is centered in its frame when you set it up.

Finally, are you using your jack supports at the corners? If you have those set up properly the trailer shouldn't shift at all when weight moves around in the trailer.

If all else fails I have a tent trailer for sale!!!
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:01 AM   #82
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I have zero tent trailer experience, but my parents in law got one for pretty much free that we can use if we like. It's older, but it's really not that bad. Just needs the exterior corners repaired (suggestions welcome!) and after looking at it yesterday, it wouldn't fully retract. One of the support bars refused to go all the way down. Does anyone have any idea why that would happen?
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:06 AM   #83
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The trailer might not fully come down in there are connectors on the cables that don't allow it to go back through the pulleys. There are other potential issues as well, but that pops into my head.
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:44 PM   #84
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Just a shout out to Traditional_Ale who helped me out with a couple 6v batteries for my new trailer. Great help and a great deal. PM him if you need any type of battery at all!!
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:56 PM   #85
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Just a shout out to Traditional_Ale who helped me out with a couple 6v batteries for my new trailer. Great help and a great deal. PM him if you need any type of battery at all!!
That's great to know!

A quick question to you and Traditional - I currently use 2 12's in my trailer. Is there an advantage to having 2 6's over 2 12's?
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Old 07-24-2012, 03:59 PM   #86
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I have zero tent trailer experience, but my parents in law got one for pretty much free that we can use if we like. It's older, but it's really not that bad. Just needs the exterior corners repaired (suggestions welcome!) and after looking at it yesterday, it wouldn't fully retract. One of the support bars refused to go all the way down. Does anyone have any idea why that would happen?

A tent trailer we used to own had some damage and some of the built-in bungee type cords were frayed and not very elastic. We took it to Calgary Tent and Awning. They did a good job and I don't recall it being too pricey either.
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:03 PM   #87
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That's great to know!

A quick question to you and Traditional - I currently use 2 12's in my trailer. Is there an advantage to having 2 6's over 2 12's?
There is but I have no idea what it is. I have done a bunch of reading and everyone says 2 sixes is better. I'll let someone else with more expertise actually provide the answer.
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Old 07-24-2012, 04:09 PM   #88
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That's great to know!

A quick question to you and Traditional - I currently use 2 12's in my trailer. Is there an advantage to having 2 6's over 2 12's?
While two 12v batteries might provide similar run-time per charge, they will only recharge 250-300 times. 6v batteries are more like 750-1000 times. However, the most important step in getting a long service life is to keep them charged at all times. Do not allow the sulphuric acid electrolyte to turn into water. A battery just sitting will discharge in 30 days and thus now you have water against metal lead plates, and even if it doesn't freeze the plates are still being damaged.
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:19 PM   #89
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While two 12v batteries might provide similar run-time per charge, they will only recharge 250-300 times. 6v batteries are more like 750-1000 times. However, the most important step in getting a long service life is to keep them charged at all times. Do not allow the sulphuric acid electrolyte to turn into water. A battery just sitting will discharge in 30 days and thus now you have water against metal lead plates, and even if it doesn't freeze the plates are still being damaged.
Ahhh! I always wondered what the advantage was. I was always told 2 6's were better but no one could tell me why.

So, since I have solar panels on the trailer (I've never seen the charge on the batteries run down by much, and it seems to keep them at full charge all winter), they should last me a long time? When they do finally crap out, I'm coming to see you though!
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:22 PM   #90
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Quote:
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While two 12v batteries might provide similar run-time per charge, they will only recharge 250-300 times. 6v batteries are more like 750-1000 times. However, the most important step in getting a long service life is to keep them charged at all times. Do not allow the sulphuric acid electrolyte to turn into water. A battery just sitting will discharge in 30 days and thus now you have water against metal lead plates, and even if it doesn't freeze the plates are still being damaged.
What do you recommend for keeping batteries charged that stay in the trailer all summer?

The biggest thing I do is if I come home from dry camping, I will keep the trailer home for 2 days and let the batteries charge back up before putting it back in storage.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:49 PM   #91
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What do you recommend for keeping batteries charged that stay in the trailer all summer?

The biggest thing I do is if I come home from dry camping, I will keep the trailer home for 2 days and let the batteries charge back up before putting it back in storage.
I used to take the batteries out and keep them in my garage. Canadian Tire has those trickle chargers for about $50 and I would periodically charge the batteries up if I wasn't using the trailer much or if the batteries got run down during dry camping. I'm able to keep my trailer at home so I was always able to just plug the trailer in before I got the solar panels.
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:07 AM   #92
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anybody else have a hybrid? I have a 2009 Rockwood Roo and it looks like on the front bunk the panel is starting to bubble. I called the place I bought it from 3 months ago and they said to just put some sealing around it, I told them I wasnt satisfied with the answer as it seemed to be a temporary fix to get them past having to do anything.

Thoughts?

edit: looking online it looks like there is a whole kit the Forest River has and recommends replacing with for trailers before 2010
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Old 08-15-2012, 12:35 PM   #93
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So- I have a question for you guys. What do you use for a TV antenna? It seems like the two main ones on the market are the Winegard Sensar and the Jack antenna. My trailer came with the Sensar III, and I ended up buying the Jack replacement head after reading reviews online. I have been doing some more careful reading between the lines, and it seems like there is quite a difference in performance between the Jack replacement head and getting the full Jack antenna.

I have also been contemplating getting either the Wingman upgrade for my Sensar III, or actually buying the Sensar IV. What I would really like to do is get a few of us together with the different antennas and compare reception.

Yes, I could go with satellite as I currently have Bell at home. I would rather not have 200 channels available; as that could turn a camping trip into a TV watching trip. It's nice to have a TV option for the news as we are going to bed, or another thing to do if the weather turns bad. Plus I do like the "hobby" aspect of finding what channels are available where we might happen to be.
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:30 AM   #94
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Just going to give this a bump in case any RVers missed my post above.
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:22 AM   #95
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Sorry Ken. No help here.
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:24 AM   #96
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Sut still using the Winegard that came with our trailer, (I think its the 3 with no wingman).

We are in the US right now with the trailer and picked up at least 10 channels, (most HD) - it's awesome. Although now that I read quickly about them, the Wingman addition sure sounds like a good option.

Are you just looking to add range to your antenna Ken?
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Old 08-23-2012, 10:37 AM   #97
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Count me as clueless as well, but i'm super interested to find out what the best mod for the antenna is. I'm not entirely sure what antenna I have, and don't really know how to find out?

My antenna has a note on it that I should grease gears twice a year. Does anybody do this? What should I use?
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Old 08-23-2012, 11:45 AM   #98
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Are you just looking to add range to your antenna Ken?
Yeah, pretty much. The problem with the signals all going digital is you are no longer able to just watch a snowy picture; digital either works or doesn't. Add to that the geography around Calgary can play a huge role in reception. At my house I am the same distance from the transmitters as I am camping around Bragg Creek. I can get all 6 digital channels easily at home, but at Bragg Creek I am reduced to 1 or sometimes zero. With that being the "fringe" point I was hoping to do some testing to see what antenna actually works best. So many of the reviews come out of the States; and they have a much denser population. They also have a lot of repeaters in place, so often something that is of marginal quality will work fine.

Usually to you can look at your antenna and see what it is. Page one of this PDF shows the Winegard Sensar III, Sensar III with wingman, and Sensar IV
http://www.winegard.com/kbase/upload/2452013.pdf
The Jack antenna can be seen here:
http://www.jacktv4free.com/products_rv.html

Most RVs in the last 10 years came with the Sensar III. Brand new trailers seem to be coming with a mix of Sensar III, Sensar IV, and Jack antennas.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:32 AM   #99
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Quick, but possible complicated issue that a buddy ran into. He has a tent trailer and while he was camping, wasn't getting any power to a few things in his trailer (furnace, lights). When he hooked up to a generator, the same things still didn't work. I automatically assumed it was fuses, but he swears he took them all out and checked them to make sure.
Anybody got any ideas to the issue here? This one has me stumped and I'd hate for the problem to be a huge one for him, since he's new to trailer camping.
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Old 08-27-2012, 10:37 AM   #100
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The fuses are for 12V battery power - there should also be a breaker(s) for when he is plugged in to shore power, make sure to check it(them).
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