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Old 03-08-2011, 12:05 PM   #21
Pilsner12
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But what if you have kids or dogs to put in the back seat or in the rear hatch, or putting groceries in the back. Anytime I open any door and the interior light goes on my starter turns off.
Not sure if you read my full note about how I dissagree with the way that it operates and that it should taken back to where it was installed and have them hook it upto the brake switch.

Last edited by Pilsner12; 03-08-2011 at 12:07 PM. Reason: edit
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Old 03-08-2011, 12:12 PM   #22
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I had my factory 1 way starter; and most of the time if I'm close enough to know if it started; I'm also close enough to just start it myself.
My one way goes pretty far 2000 ft IIRC. No problems from inside buildings etc. I can't even see my truck from my classroom because of a brick wall, I'd guess 750' away...pretty impressive. Even my Wifes cheapo Pro start worked the one day I used her car.
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Old 03-08-2011, 12:16 PM   #23
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Hey Pil, can the trunk button operate the heated mirrors/R.wind. def option ? Don't need the trunk for a P/U If so I'm not impressed they didn't...hmm I don't think I ever tried
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Old 03-08-2011, 12:28 PM   #24
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Hey Pil, can the trunk button operate the heated mirrors/R.wind. def option ? Don't need the trunk for a P/U If so I'm not impressed they didn't...hmm I don't think I ever tried
Probably can. I would need to look at the vehicles wiring diagram and see if it requires a pulse or latched connection or if it is controled through a data wire. Some newer vehicles have modules available that connect to the vehicles BCM to allow control of these types of accessories through the remote.

As for the installers they wouldn't just go hook it up without being told to do so and the customer paying to have the feature added. I always notified my customers of optional upgrades that could be added on as it meant more money in my pocket and a happier customer.

Last edited by Pilsner12; 03-08-2011 at 12:31 PM. Reason: edit
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Old 03-08-2011, 03:29 PM   #25
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MacDaddy77 - I think MoneyGuy has one.
I don't, actually. I was asking about it but never got one. Maybe for the next vehicle if they work well and don't cost too much. There is a reason I'm the MoneyGuy.
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Old 03-08-2011, 04:54 PM   #26
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Mine shuts off when I also hit the brake by accident. Since, we are talking about remote car starters, does anybody know how to retool or reprogram a factory remote car starter?

The one I have is one of the accessories I got when I bought my car a year ago. I was a fool through, because I can only start the car from 100 ft away and it cost me $700 for it, but I had bought it because of the security features.

I was told that I can get some sort of wire from home depot, make it a spiral and connect it to the current antenna on the remote starter. Does that actually work and how far can that go?
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:03 PM   #27
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Mine shuts off when I also hit the brake by accident. Since, we are talking about remote car starters, does anybody know how to retool or reprogram a factory remote car starter?

The one I have is one of the accessories I got when I bought my car a year ago. I was a fool through, because I can only start the car from 100 ft away and it cost me $700 for it, but I had bought it because of the security features.

I was told that I can get some sort of wire from home depot, make it a spiral and connect it to the current antenna on the remote starter. Does that actually work and how far can that go?
It might being a 1 way starter but can't see it having a noticeable therefore worthwhile gain. As far as security features go that is a load of BS that the dealer gave you. At the end of the day aftermarket remote starters integrate factory security systems to work as they should and most aftermarket units have the ability to provide additional theft deterrants. ie. Flashing LED's and starter kill.
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Old 03-08-2011, 05:15 PM   #28
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"Evil Ken" was considering stinging you along about how it was free, etc.

Because I own a 2011 GM vehicle it comes standard along with OnStar. I can also remote lock/unlock the doors, check tire pressure, fuel left, all sorts of cool things. Very handy when I get the call asking "I have two thingys left on the fuel gauge; do I have enough to get home?

I do have to echo the "Get two way" sentiment. Before the iPhone app came out I had my factory 1 way starter; and most of the time if I'm close enough to know if it started; I'm also close enough to just start it myself.
That's pretty cool especially when you're at the dome and it's cold outside. That would have came in handy after freezing my ass off at the Heritage Classic and being welcomed into my freezing truck and having to wait until it got warm to get any relief.

And agreed on the one factory starter. I have that in my truck and it sucks. I have to be pretty close to turn it on and like you said by that time you might as well turn it on your self. My starter says something like 2000 feet, but as soon as you get beside any bulidings it's useless. I think the range testing is done in open fields with nothing obstructing the vehicle from the remote because mine maybe turns on only within 50 feet.

Definitely going to look at the smart phone option.
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:19 PM   #29
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My ford factory one on 2010 escape works awesome. It's bfe coming out to a warm car after hockey!
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Old 03-08-2011, 09:28 PM   #30
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That's pretty cool especially when you're at the dome and it's cold outside. That would have came in handy after freezing my ass off at the Heritage Classic and being welcomed into my freezing truck and having to wait until it got warm to get any relief.

And agreed on the one factory starter. I have that in my truck and it sucks. I have to be pretty close to turn it on and like you said by that time you might as well turn it on your self. My starter says something like 2000 feet, but as soon as you get beside any bulidings it's useless. I think the range testing is done in open fields with nothing obstructing the vehicle from the remote because mine maybe turns on only within 50 feet.

Definitely going to look at the smart phone option.
nm
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:33 PM   #31
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a little bit of a derail but does anyone have one of teh new car starters that you can start from anywhere with your Smartphone?
A friend of mine has one - he started his car in the airport park n jet a few times as it was -30 or so the whole time we were down there.
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:02 PM   #32
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A friend of mine has one - he started his car in the airport park n jet a few times as it was -30 or so the whole time we were down there.
Down where?
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Old 03-08-2011, 11:04 PM   #33
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Down where?
Hah! Faulty editing gets me again - we were in Mexico.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:05 AM   #34
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http://www.gadgettownusa.com/images/...6.JPG&svc=ebay

Is this what im looking for?
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:36 AM   #35
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And agreed on the one factory starter. I have that in my truck and it sucks. I have to be pretty close to turn it on and like you said by that time you might as well turn it on your self. My starter says something like 2000 feet, but as soon as you get beside any bulidings it's useless. I think the range testing is done in open fields with nothing obstructing the vehicle from the remote because mine maybe turns on only within 50 feet.

Definitely going to look at the smart phone option.
I'd like to know what kind of truck you bought, take that POS back to the dealer and get it fixed.

Even a cheap starter (the wifes was $49) works from inside buildings and the signal goes 00's if not 1000 ft or more. (from inside)
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Old 03-09-2011, 06:03 PM   #36
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Bumping because I'm dieing to know what kind of truck you got whose factory starter only works like you say.
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Old 12-08-2011, 12:39 PM   #37
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I have a compustar 2 way remote and my car just shuts off randomly, could be ten seconds after it starts, 2minutes, 10 minutes. Frustrating as hell when you have to start your car 6 times in the morning. Took it back dozens of times to alarmtec and it alway's work fine there. What could be causing this problem?
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Old 12-08-2011, 12:53 PM   #38
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Tons and tons of problems with these can be from a loose wire. If you've ever seen all the wires that need to get spliced to get one of these units in it would make your head spin. They're wiring up a billion wires in a tight space as fast as they can, and then shoving everything up in an even tighter space. This is why I'll never bother with one again. When they stop working you might as well throw it out and start over.
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Old 12-08-2011, 12:59 PM   #39
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Tons and tons of problems with these can be from a loose wire. If you've ever seen all the wires that need to get spliced to get one of these units in it would make your head spin. They're wiring up a billion wires in a tight space as fast as they can, and then shoving everything up in an even tighter space. This is why I'll never bother with one again. When they stop working you might as well throw it out and start over.
I hear ya, $600 installed and the thing has never really worked properly. Will never buy a remote starter again for any car.
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Old 12-08-2011, 02:01 PM   #40
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As a car business guy, and someone that used to install these hack devices, let me give you some advice.

DO NOT PUT THESE IN YOUR CARS.

Back when I did them, I would always use this analogy. It is like using a road flare, to ignite the engines on the Space shuttle.

Electronics in cars are highly sophisticated, top quality, and usually German engineered. I believe they are classified as class 'A' devices. Remote control car starters, are cheap, junky, made in Taiwan pieces of garbage, that barely fall into the level of quality a cheap toy would. So you are taking that piece of junk made at some anonymous factory in Asia with zero quality control, and tying it into your factory engine computer, and engine management system made by a top tier company like Siemens or Bosch.

Also with all new vehicles, they are equipped with transponder based anti theft devices. Basically an antenna detects the proximity of the key, to an antenna around the ignition tumbler or near it. Why they ask for a spare key, is they are typically in most cases, opening up your steering column, and taping, or gluing the entire key, or the transponder portion of it, right next to the antenna, to make it think there is a key in the ignition at all times. You are now kicking it old school, and simply relying on the physical skeleton pattern on the key as security. What does this mean? You have basically given up your factory electronic anti theft device with billions of codes which makes your car essentially theft proof, and are now relying on a simple relay as your ignition cut, which can be over ridden very easily.

Combine that with the fact that a lot of these things are installed by absolute hacks, who have no qualifications to be working on the intricate electrical system in a new car, let alone a Atari 2600.

If you are going to put one in, they do have plug and play options available now. Basically no wiring alteration is required, as they plug right into the molex connector, inline with the engine computer, but they still usually require the anti theft over ride. So I still don't trust these things.

If the thing ever cooks your engine computer, you are SOL. The manufacturers and installers all "claim" they will cover any damages that they may cause to the starter (by cranking without cutting the start signal) or the engine computer, but being on both sides of the fence, I have never ONCE seen an electronic company step up, and fix a mistake. They will give you the run around until you get fed up and pay.

Last edited by pylon; 12-08-2011 at 02:37 PM. Reason: spelling
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