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Old 11-15-2011, 10:36 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by surferguy View Post
I can help you sketch it up in Google Sketch up...
That is what I use to do my renderings for clients.
Google Sketch up was awesome for my design. You can build everything in 3D easily, and then download components that show exactly how much room you have to put things together. It's so easy to draw, too.
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Old 11-15-2011, 10:36 PM   #102
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I think Alberta code is a 36" minimum for the furnace room door.
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Old 11-15-2011, 11:02 PM   #103
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Alberta code is 32"x78".

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Old 11-15-2011, 11:43 PM   #104
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Thanks everyone, maybe I'll take a look at sketch-up. Would still prefer to get someone who knows what they're doing in, but maybe I'll be able to figure something out.
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Old 11-15-2011, 11:53 PM   #105
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What I did was get some buddies that are in construction and know what they're doing. They found all of the main pitfalls for me as well as the significant design constraints. I took it from there with Google Sketch up and ended up with a really nice basement.
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Old 11-26-2011, 06:11 PM   #106
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Didn't want to start a new thread so I'm hoping this question is relevant enough here.

For exterior walls, is there any way to prevent/repair damage to the vapour barrier if I want to hang something on an outside wall? This may sound goofy but I have no idea.

I want to get a few jersey cases up, but the only place to hang them is the outside wall, and I don't want it to become a problematic spot for mould down the road.
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Old 11-27-2011, 08:38 AM   #107
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Didn't want to start a new thread so I'm hoping this question is relevant enough here.

For exterior walls, is there any way to prevent/repair damage to the vapour barrier if I want to hang something on an outside wall? This may sound goofy but I have no idea.

I want to get a few jersey cases up, but the only place to hang them is the outside wall, and I don't want it to become a problematic spot for mould down the road.
IMO, you might be getting a little overwrought about nothing here but...
If you're screwing directly into the face of a stud in the wall, just fuggedaboudit. There will never be an issue in such a case. If it makes you feel better though, back the screw out after you've driven it and squirt a tiny amount of 100% silicone into the hole, then redrive the screw.
If your "locates" fall in between the studs, use butterfly anchors. Pre drill as per the anchor directions, insert the anchor and tighten it until you've got most of the slack taken up, then pump the hole full of silicone until it's just about flush to the face of the drywall. Then finish tightening the anchor the last few turns.
Repeat as required.
Problem solved.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:22 AM   #108
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If you're screwing directly into the face of a stud in the wall, just fuggedaboudit.
I haven't checked for the studs yet, but I'm doubting I'll get that lucky. Thanks for the tips.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:31 AM   #109
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Buy a $20 stud finder- problem solved. Cheaper ones don't work as well; they are designed to confirm what you find by knocking.
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:13 AM   #110
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Buy a $20 stud finder- problem solved.
Lol yeah I have a stud finder. I'm just not home to check at the moment. I want to have 2 display cases side by side, so unless the frames are the exact width of the stud spacing, and I don't put a gap between, I won't be hitting studs at all the locations I need screws for. Which makes me have concerns about the vapour barrier.
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Old 11-27-2011, 01:59 PM   #111
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Correct me if I'm wrong but won't all electrical outlets on exterior walls already have openings in the vapour barrier?

I reckon you've already got all kinds of leaks in your vapour barrier that you don't know about and are causing absolutely no harm. I think a lot of minor household issues have been a wee bit blown out proportion by certain TV shows. It's a wonder we, and some of our homes, ever made it this far. Then again, I don't even have insulation in my house so what do I know...
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Old 11-27-2011, 02:37 PM   #112
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Correct me if I'm wrong but won't all electrical outlets on exterior walls already have openings in the vapour barrier?
Not with 3 rolls of Tuck Tape . There's also inserts that the receptacles go into to keep a barrier in tact. As far as it being blow out of proportion, that's quite possible. My gen. contractor seems to be a lot less concerned with it than I am. I'm just going off what my pops drilled into my head for 30 years. I think the vapour barrier is some sort of religious thing for him.

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Old 11-27-2011, 03:03 PM   #113
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So, is the basement already drywalled? I can't tell from your posts if it is.

If not, run a 2x6 perpedicular to the studs where you want the jersey cases to hang. If you really want to get anal, run 2x2s beside the studs to support the 2x6. I did that in a few places where I thought I might end up hanging a TV. I didn't go so far as 2x2s, but I did secure the 2x6 with lag bolts on either side.
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Old 11-27-2011, 03:26 PM   #114
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So, is the basement already drywalled? I can't tell from your posts if it is.
Sadly, yes. There's a few things I'd like to change if it wasn't.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:43 AM   #115
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Not with 3 rolls of Tuck Tape . There's also inserts that the receptacles go into to keep a barrier in tact. As far as it being blow out of proportion, that's quite possible. My gen. contractor seems to be a lot less concerned with it than I am. I'm just going off what my pops drilled into my head for 30 years. I think the vapour barrier is some sort of religious thing for him.
I had a business in the early 90's (BTT: "before tuck tape") insulating new residential; 6 mil vapour barrier was a "brand new" thing at the time too...
When I built my first house in '93 I went "way overboard" when doing my batting/vapour barrier. The house beside mine ("Shane Homes" built) was very similar in size (a little smaller actually: ~1320 vs 1370) with a similar proportion of high ceiling area. I put two 4 x4 and one 2 x4 skylights in mine as well, while the "control" house had a single 4 x 2 in the ensuite area. The control house was insulated by a piecework crew from "Company X" Drywall, who had the contract with Shane at the time (I was a sub to "Company Y" Drywall back then). My natural gas bill was consistently 1/3 to 1/4 of that of my neighbors; they were an older retired couple while me and my girlfriend were doing the "dinks" thing, so the comparison definitely stands as equitable. I'd told them about my "experiment" shortly after they moved in and they were very cooperative.

For those too young to remember, you had only one gas privider back then (Canadian Western NG) so it's not like today, where a bad gas contract may also be in play.

Of major importance?

I spent 5 full (i.e. long 12-14 hour) days insulating my own house; if I'd been doing it on contract with my 3 employees, we would have been in and out in about 3- 4 hours.

On piecework labour rates my house would have paid me about $300-350. I paid the fuel, employees, and bought the tacker staples and olfa blades; On an average day I walked with about $40-50 an hour for my troubles, some were better and some were worse.
I also cut quite a few "side" deals (directly with home buyers) to "do it right" and never did get "busted" (this would have raised a serious "sh*tstorm" within the industry if anyone had "blabbed" about it). I would have been canned on the spot if anyone ever found out.

Do the math on my own house...$300/ 60hours? Hmmm...a whopping $5 an hour. Something's rotten in the state of Denmark.

Haven't been involved with the Drywall industry for many years now but I seriously doubt that much has changed...other than the "miracle" of Tuck Tape. LOL!

Building a conventional batt/poly house? You might want to "discuss" this with the insulator .

Just don't say I told you so...that whole "sh*tstorm thing" and all...
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Old 11-28-2011, 11:38 AM   #116
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FYI -

I'm told TuckTape is no longer code - they've gone back to acoustic sealant as TuckTape is deteriorating after 5+ years
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:23 PM   #117
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FYI -

I'm told TuckTape is no longer code - they've gone back to acoustic sealant as TuckTape is deteriorating after 5+ years
Is it the tape film breaking down? Or is the glue of the Tuck Tape deteriorating the actual poly that it is stuck to?
I've attempted to pull Tuck Tape joints on 6 mil poly and the tape has literally "burned" itself into the plastic. The vapour barrier will fail (tear) long before the joint itself will release. Perhaps the chemical in the adhesive continues to work and "eats" the polyethene over time?

This would be my guess; that bond is bulletproof after the tape's been on for a few days. Interesting to know, but I've kept it "old school" myself. Ridgid hats for electrical boxes and beaucoup de "black goo" throughout.

Learn something every day...cheers for that.

Got a link?

Last edited by Bindair Dundat; 11-28-2011 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:30 PM   #118
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Quick question. I was thinking about building a 3 inch indent in an outside wall so I can put a tv flush into the wall. There is currently a 5.5 inch gap behind drywall. So building it would leave a 2 inch gap. For insulation behind it. Now my question is does this go against code and extremely compromise the insulation and moisture barrier?
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:03 PM   #119
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I am not in construction or an expert, but I am fairly certain that compressing insulation results in it losing significant R value. My worry would be what do you have to do to your studs to achieve what you want and is wiring running through those studs, because that would affect code.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:38 PM   #120
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I just realized I'm a dummy. Studs are probably 24 inches apart and tv is gonna be 32. To do it I would have to reinforce everything and it really wouldn't be worth it. Problem solved TVs can just hang on the wall
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