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Old 03-04-2010, 08:05 AM   #21
algernon
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I just spent $11000 on a two story farmhouse, with a smaller picture window, 5 bedroom casement windows, three large (80x46) fixed awnings and kitchen, dining, living room windows. (dual low e argon with grilles).
...so that makes 13?

Actually, great post.

People are always giddy about energy savings with new windows, but the windows themselves are just large areas to lose heat. Sealing for air leakage is more important, in terms of energy loss (unless the old windows are failing). Of course, if designed correctly, passive solar can provide energy efficiency, though, it's complicated.

I've worked on a few energy audited houses, and it's amazing what sealing up the joist spaces at the perimeter, windows, attic penetrations, etc. can do for efficiency.
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:28 AM   #22
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Great info - thanks

Not really doing it for the energy savings. From what I've heard a window is still a big hole in your wall and it's going to be inefficient regardless. I think I'm in a different situation than Vlad as mine is in a strata townhouse. The board is under obligation to keep the buildings in good shape. The windows have passed their mean failure period and as such they're beginning to replace them. What I want to do is get them all done at once. They're mostly being subsidized through a strong reserve fund with some special assessments to top it up. As I could afford the original plan to REPLACE THEM ALL I'm a little saddened by the new plan to replace as need be.

I don't want a mix match of random windows. Also I think all new windows and doors has a great resale component than a few here and there. Additionally I was ready for them to move last year so I could apply it to the HRTC... they were to slow.

The ecoenergy retrofit program ends March 2011. So everyone has 12 months to do any of these improvements as well, windows and doors @ $40 per (12 windows and doors, $480 returned) on a cost of $3,000 (that was the special assessment) was a good chunk of savings. Not to mention all the other things I'd then do. Toilets, sealing, insulation, etc. . .

Yeah, what's all this E stuff? E1 E2 E3?

Going to look for myself too.
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Old 03-04-2010, 09:34 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by algernon View Post
...so that makes 13?

Actually, great post.
Yes.

Thanks.

I forgot to mention these were all PVC windows, which is the cheapest way to go, and they were nail fin only as I am going to do my own millwork on the outside. Brickmolds would cost a bit more. I had huge brickmolds on the first house and they added at least 10% to the cost.

Metal clad and wood frames can easily double your cost.
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Old 03-04-2010, 09:44 AM   #24
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Yeah, what's all this E stuff? E1 E2 E3?
In reference to what? The glass or the window? You may be talking about climate zones, to get your rebates the windows have to qualify for the zone you live in but that is usually zone A.B,C. Calgary is C (pretty sure). http://www.allweatherwindows.com/are...uide/index.php Basic sliders are only a B. Make sure you get the right ones.

Here is a good link to glass R values. http://www.allweatherwindows.com/are...lass_terms.php like was previously posted you can benefit from [passive solar but there is more than just the window involved. I am playing with this and you have to factor in where the sun passes the windows through the day, we are adding a deck with an awning and we have to calculate the best size to let the sun in early and block it in the hot parts of the day. It's pretty cool stuff but hard to accomplish.
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Old 03-04-2010, 09:52 AM   #25
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I am playing with this and you have to factor in where the sun passes the windows through the day, we are adding a deck with an awning and we have to calculate the best size to let the sun in early and block it in the hot parts of the day. It's pretty cool stuff but hard to accomplish.
I like the concept of having a big thermal mass to soak up the sun's energy to release at night. I've heard of gigantic fireplace hearths, insulated concrete slabs, and masonry walls on the interior to absorb energy.

www.greenbuildingtalk.com has a lot of info and some intelligent posters.
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Old 03-04-2010, 10:01 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Wookie View Post
Great info - thanks

Not really doing it for the energy savings. From what I've heard a window is still a big hole in your wall and it's going to be inefficient regardless. I think I'm in a different situation than Vlad as mine is in a strata townhouse. The board is under obligation to keep the buildings in good shape. The windows have passed their mean failure period and as such they're beginning to replace them. What I want to do is get them all done at once. They're mostly being subsidized through a strong reserve fund with some special assessments to top it up. As I could afford the original plan to REPLACE THEM ALL I'm a little saddened by the new plan to replace as need be.

I don't want a mix match of random windows. Also I think all new windows and doors has a great resale component than a few here and there. Additionally I was ready for them to move last year so I could apply it to the HRTC... they were to slow.

The ecoenergy retrofit program ends March 2011. So everyone has 12 months to do any of these improvements as well, windows and doors @ $40 per (12 windows and doors, $480 returned) on a cost of $3,000 (that was the special assessment) was a good chunk of savings. Not to mention all the other things I'd then do. Toilets, sealing, insulation, etc. . .

Yeah, what's all this E stuff? E1 E2 E3?

Going to look for myself too.
Actually I think it's 18 months. We had the energy audit in September. Since that time I've replaced our front door, two older toilets and blown insulation into the attic. I still have to caulk around all exterior light switches and plugs where you lose a ton of heat and some random spray foaming outside around my house where there are vents and stuff.
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Old 03-04-2010, 11:06 AM   #27
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You have 12 months from your first eval to complete the work for the Energuide rebates....HOWEVER, as I have done, if you can't get done in time you call and get a 6 month extension, and then when you still aren't done, you call and get an extension until the end of the program, in Mar 2011. I am a slow worker.
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Old 03-04-2010, 11:35 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sliver View Post
Actually I think it's 18 months. We had the energy audit in September. Since that time I've replaced our front door, two older toilets and blown insulation into the attic. I still have to caulk around all exterior light switches and plugs where you lose a ton of heat and some random spray foaming outside around my house where there are vents and stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by speede5 View Post
You have 12 months from your first eval to complete the work for the Energuide rebates....HOWEVER, as I have done, if you can't get done in time you call and get a 6 month extension, and then when you still aren't done, you call and get an extension until the end of the program, in Mar 2011. I am a slow worker.
Correct and correct - you can have 12 months with a 6 month extension. However, the program ends March 2011 in 12 months.

Regarding the E1 E2 E3 stuff, I was referring to (well I didn't know what I was referring to, but it wasn't the climate zones)
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Old 03-04-2010, 11:39 AM   #29
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Wow, good to see windows that reach R8. That's fantastic.
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:17 PM   #30
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Correct and correct - you can have 12 months with a 6 month extension. However, the program ends March 2011 in 12 months.
My first eval was done in 08. March will be over 2 years from then and they are still going to honor it. I'm even getting a bit more than when I signed up as the rebates for some items were increased!
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