Changing your own oil

[bluejays]

So here's the deal. In our household, we have a Camry, Civic and Sebring. I don't know how much oil changes cost in Calgary, but I'd imagine they're the same everywhere more or less. Anyway, over here, you're looking at $30 (was charged about $45 at Mr.Lube) at minimum with regular oil. If you want full synthetic oil, Mr.Lube charges like $80+/-. Up until this point we've used regular oil and now I'm thinking that it's time to move over to synthetic to get the most out of the cars (2 of them approaching 10 years). Anyway, I have a few questions about oil changes given the above scenario, from any of you who have done it before yourself.

Has anyone ever done it themselves in their own garage?
1) Is it worth it and how long would it take?
2) What tools do you need, and how much would they cost?
3) Is synthetic oil recommended?

Would think this would be useful to many of us on here, so I'm looking forward to hear what others think.

[ken0042]

I change my own oil most of the time now. Very little is required in the way of tools- a wrench or socket set, possibly an oil filter wrench, and an oil drain pan. Good oil drain pans can be found at Princess Auto. I guess the other thing is ramps, and buy yourself some coveralls that you can leave in the garage.

I usually look for oil on sale and get a jug for $10, or $20 for synthetic. Filter is around $5.

For me the over/under for the "pain in the butt" factor is getting an oil change for $30. However most places that will do it for $30 are also places that I have had screw up the change.

[GreatWhiteEbola]

I change my own oil all the time, I look for sales on oil, usually MOBIL 1.

On average my oil changes cost about $35 and take about 20 min.

I got a good oil drain pan/ jug at Canadian Tire, that thing is invaluable, used it for everything, coolant, transmission fluid, etc.

You can dispose of your used oil at Canadian Tire, among other garages.

I like changing my own oil, sense of accomplishment, and I know what was done.

[Doctordestiny]

I always changed my own oil and have home-made ramps and everything. But now I buy oil-change packages when I buy my cars. I sometimes change the oil in my daughter's car. I've never used synthetic oil, although I should look at it.

[Berger_4_]

I changed my oil all the time at home, but the hole in my skid plate is cut in the wrong spot for my Mazda 3. So it's way easier to just take it to LubeX or wherever instead of fighting with taking the plate off all the time. However, I change oil on all the other vehicles I drive.

I use straight synthetic now. Less worry about having to plug my car in and such now.

[Nuje]

Originally Posted by GreatWhiteEbola

You can dispose of your used oil at Canadian Tire, among other garages.

And Fire stations....well I know the one in Midnapore will take it.

[OBCT]

Interesting timing for this topic, because I've just finished doing some research on the whole synthetic vs. conventional motor oil thing. The family just got a new vehicle, so naturally I'm trying to do everything possible to make it purr nicely for years.

I'm not a car person, but most of the car people I've heard and read strongly recommend synthetic oil for most cars. I've learned that you should wait to switch to synthetic until after 5k-10k km (first or second oil change) if the car came with conventional oil from the factory.

Again, I think most car people will tell you that changing your oil is one of the easiest things out there if you learn how to do it from someone who knows... that said, I'd never try it, myself.

In terms of brand, I've heard very good things about Amsoil, Royal Purple, Shell Helix Ultra, Red Line and Mobil 1. Pick up something fully synthetic, whatever you choose.

[GGG]

I am under half an hour for changing the oil in my car from getting the ramps out to being fully cleaned up. To me the time savings alone from going to a "10 minute" oil change place and waiting in line alone made it worth doing myself.

You can pay for all of the equipment you need ramps, wrenches, etc in the first oil change if you are wanting to use synthetic. So if you have a garage I would for sure recomend changing your on oil.

[Mad Mel]

Originally Posted by fleury

Has anyone ever done it themselves in their own garage?
1) Is it worth it and how long would it take?
2) What tools do you need, and how much would they cost?
3) Is synthetic oil recommended?

Use KY Jelly. haha, ok now that that's over with...

1) It's worth it because taking the time on the weekend to drive down to Mr. Lube and wait in line sucks ass. Once you've done it a few times, you'll have it down to less than 15 minutes. Plus, you'll get extra action, 'cuz chicks dig manly men.

2) Now that you are embarking on a journey to take you away from being such an office-sissy, you will soon discover that it matters not how much the tool costs, it matters only how much you save. Canadian Tire, every Saturday morning. If a tool is half-price or better, you buy it. You tell your buddies now much you saved, and they get tool-envy every time they enter your lair of manliness / garage. "But I don't need an impact gun!" Wrong answer. And you'll need an air compressor to go with that.

For now, you can start out with a wrench set (metric for your imports, I'm not sure about the Sebring), and a filter wrench. Head to automotive first, get the filter, then find a wrench that fits it. Guesswork will lead to having an extensive collection of oil filter wrenches like mine. Which of course, is not a bad thing, since you never know what you might need a filter wrench for besides oil filters.

3) Synthetic in the winter for sure. I couldn't believe it when I loved to a warm climate, engines last way longer. I'm convinced it's all those hard starts in cold weather with an oilpan full of sludge.

[smoothessence]

Well it really doesn't make a difference for synthetic in the winter because the oil viscosity whether it is synthetic or conventional will be rated at its minimum and maximum operating temperatures.

The main benefit of synthetic is that it wears better than conventional in the sense that it doesn't break down as easily in extreme temperatures and conditions.

One thing is that if you're going to buy tools and you're mechanically adept, spend a little extra and buy quality stuff.

[Mad Mel]

Originally Posted by smoothessence

Well it really doesn't make a difference for synthetic in the winter because the oil viscosity whether it is synthetic or conventional will be rated at its minimum and maximum operating temperatures.

This is true, but the commonly-used synthetics are rated about ten degrees colder than the commonly-used conventional oils.

[DuffMan]

You'll need beer also. Have one while waiting for the oil to drain, and after you are done, at least.

[Table 5]

I'd love to be able to change my oil....alas living in a city where street-parking is the the only option, it's more or less impossible to do.

[Sliver]

Changing your own oil is easy as pie. You don't even need ramps for most cars - just buy a shallow oil pan that will slide under your car and you can probably get at the drain plug and filter by wiggling under there if you're not super fat lol. I have ramps but I'm too lazy to use them and can change the oil in our cars without them. That saves you like 10 minutes right there.

[Shazam]

What's a good set of ramps?

I too want to change my own oil. I'm finding that everybody's starting to charge more for them.

[macker]

I used to do my own but found that for the minimal savings it wasn't worth my time not to mention how greasy I would get doing it. You end up like an Oilers fan after each change and your garage gets messed up also. As mentioned overalls are a must have and I would also caution against the home made ramps and get a substantial ramp and even use a log or something else to make sure that if the ramp gives out you have a back up in place!

[Sliver]

Originally Posted by macker

I used to do my own but found that for the minimal savings it wasn't worth my time not to mention how greasy I would get doing it. You end up like an Oilers fan after each change and your garage gets messed up also. As mentioned overalls are a must have and I would also caution against the home made ramps and get a substantial ramp and even use a log or something else to make sure that if the ramp gives out you have a back up in place!

It's not about the money for me; I find I save way more time doing it myself versus taking it to a shop. But I hear you, if I could be assured of no hassle/waiting around I would more often than not take it somewhere because you don't really save money doing it yourself.

[pope04]

I find ramps a pain. I like to use a floor jack and jack stands. Even if you're sticking your snoot under there for a second, you have to be safe. Years ago, when I changed the oil in my 1979 AMC Spirit for the first time, I used a scissor jack and crawled right under. I happened to glance at the jack, and it was heeled over at an alarming angle. I scooted out, and the car crashed down a split second later.

A couple tips:

- I like to jack up my car, place the stands, start the pan draining then go in the house for at least half an hour - it gives the car a chance to cool down so when I spin the oil filter off, I don't get a nasty oil burn.

- I'm partial to the resin oil filter wrench that you use with a ratchet and you slip on the end of the oil filter. It just seems to work better than the "strap" type wrench on the two vehicles I work on.

- While you're under there gettin' all Oiler fannish, check everything out. Look for leaks, etc.

- I find if you watch for sales on oil/filters, you can save big bucks over taking it in.

[4X4]

I used to love changing my own oil because I got to look around under my truck for signs of upcoming maintenance. Now that I lease, someone else gets dirty and it's free.


Heed this advice: use Fram oil filters. One day the grip on the bottom of the filter will come in really handy. In fact, you shouldn't even need an oil filter wrench. Before you put on your filter, dip your finger in the oil pan and run it over the gasket. When you screw the filter on, don't go Hercules on it and tighten the hell out of it. Just get it to the point where the gasket makes contact, then give it a quarter or half turn beyond that.

[automaton 3]

Originally Posted by pope04

I find ramps a pain. I like to use a floor jack and jack stands. Even if you're sticking your snoot under there for a second, you have to be safe. Years ago, when I changed the oil in my 1979 AMC Spirit for the first time, I used a scissor jack and crawled right under. I happened to glance at the jack, and it was heeled over at an alarming angle. I scooted out, and the car crashed down a split second later.

A couple tips:

- I like to jack up my car, place the stands, start the pan draining then go in the house for at least half an hour - it gives the car a chance to cool down so when I spin the oil filter off, I don't get a nasty oil burn.

- I'm partial to the resin oil filter wrench that you use with a ratchet and you slip on the end of the oil filter. It just seems to work better than the "strap" type wrench on the two vehicles I work on.

- While you're under there gettin' all Oiler fannish, check everything out. Look for leaks, etc.

- I find if you watch for sales on oil/filters, you can save big bucks over taking it in.

Good post, I also jack the car up and use jack stands. Honestly I found the ramps were a pain in the ass as often the car would push one or both rather than drive up on it. Jack + stands is pretty much foolproof. I also wedge some 6x6's underneath as a back up, because I'm paranoid I suppose haha.
My Silverado is tall enough I can get underneath so I don't bother jacking it.

There is also a chain-type wrench for your ratchet, I find that works well.

I also watch for sales, in particular for the synthetic...Canadian Tire seems to have a special on a regular basis if you watch.

Mad Mel, agree on buying tools, highly addictive.