Another happy Killasoft customer here. The guy is crazy good at what he does and some extremely unique equipment that he uses.
Can we get a confirmation of what equipment or what Killasoft is actually doing? If it's just a reflow, all it takes is a heatgun. A reball is the real long-term solution and much harder to find.
Can we get a confirmation of what equipment or what Killasoft is actually doing? If it's just a reflow, all it takes is a heatgun. A reball is the real long-term solution and much harder to find.
I'm not sure what his equipment does exactly, but if what he told me was true, the machine he uses is among only a handful in North America. I would say it's slightly larger than a really big office printer.
I'm not sure what his equipment does exactly, but if what he told me was true, the machine he uses is among only a handful in North America. I would say it's slightly larger than a really big office printer.
I'm pretty sure it's a BGA machine we're talking about. My company has a couple of these that I use from time to time for PS3 repairs. Size may vary based on how big a size of board the thing can handle.
What exactly is wrong with your drive? Is it just a laser problem, disc sensor problem? If it is, that is very easy to fix with the right replacement parts. I might be able to help you out to fix it if it's one of the original phats up to CECHA01-CECHG01
There's a problem if your entire drive is dead because BD drives are married to your PS3 mother board. If your whole drive is dead or you somehow fried your controller board, then that will require you to get an entirely brand new drive and swap the one controller chip which is much more difficult to do because you have to mess around with desoldering a BGA component and mount it back on afterwards.
EDIT: Well, other models I could probably do too, just I might not know off the top of my head what part you need to buy.
Have no idea
Bought it like this, put disk in, does nothing
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Have no idea
Bought it like this, put disk in, does nothing
If that's the case it's just probably a dead leaser or spindle motor. Either of which are replaceable for a decent price.
Good guide starts here if you want to replace the whole mechanism:
This exposes the PS3 laser mechanism. At this point you can check if the laser is dead or not or you can skip the checks and just buy a new laser assembly and replace it in the video.
If checking laser, put a blank transparent cover DVD spacer (the kind you get at the top of a spindle of blank DVDs) onto the drive spindle. Put the magnetic spindle cover back on and reconnect all the cables to the drive. If your drive spins it's just the laser and you can replace it with this one here.
Mine did fail after he fixed it, but it was about 10 months later so he fixed it again without question (it was within the warranty period). It's been going for about 6 months since.
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I have a couple of the 60GB launch PS3's that I am considering selling. They have very little use and have never had a yellow light of death problem, or any issue with them. Any idea what they are worth to sell? Probably just the PS3 and a controller and power cord.
Mine did fail after he fixed it, but it was about 10 months later so he fixed it again without question (it was within the warranty period). It's been going for about 6 months since.
Keep in mind that Killasoft's "fix" is not permanent and it will fail again. YLOD is caused by faulty solder (cracking at high heat) that was used during that generation of PS3 manufacturing and all he does is remelt solder to fix the issue. Every time you repair it this way it has the chance of damaging other components.
The only permanent way to fix this is is to replace the defective solder (or reball) which only people with very specialized equipment and skill will do. Some guys in Vancouver, US and Edmonton will do it but it's well worth it if you are going to keep your PS3 for a long period of time, want to keep the backwards compatibility or want to run CFW on it. I tried reballing one of my stations and borked it royally by fat fingering the temperatures but one of mine made it and it's been going strong for over a year.
My Killasoft-repaired launch PS3 60gb did eventually die but it took a long ass time, and by the time it did, I was able to pick up a new 250 gb slim (not super-slim) console with NHL 13 for dirt cheap.
$60 + $215 versus a new PS3 that would have cost me $399+ at the time of failure. Makes good financial sense.
At $250 for a new system, your broken system repaired through Dan would have to break 4 times for it not to be worth it. Since he offers a year warranty, the financials work out well.
My PS3 died with RLOD just a year after I got my YLOD problem fixed at Killasoft. No GTA5 or NHL14 for me. I am waiting for PS4 now but with no pre-order I am likely waiting a while.
My PS3 died with RLOD just a year after I got my YLOD problem fixed at Killasoft. No GTA5 or NHL14 for me. I am waiting for PS4 now but with no pre-order I am likely waiting a while.
Tends to be what happens with you do the reflow too much. You potentially shorten the lifespan of other critical components such as memory in your case.
Can't you get a cheap one off kijiji now for cheap anyways if you don't have CFW?
Tends to be what happens with you do the reflow too much. You potentially shorten the lifespan of other critical components such as memory in your case.
Can't you get a cheap one off kijiji now for cheap anyways if you don't have CFW?
I probably could I just don't game enough to justify it when the next gen systems are so close.
