The Home Improvement Thread

[Ducay]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

Based on my research, it seems that there's quite a few recommendations to maximize the base M12 reciprocating saw by utilizing Diablo carbide blades (demolition grade if the wallet can handle it) vs the typical Milwaukee blades. Supposedly, the difference is less noticeable in the higher power reciprocating saws, but for the M12 base, it makes a huge difference in vibration and cutting effectiveness. This makes a ton of sense to me.

I'm thinking of going with this:

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/dia...set/1000777123

The pruner will be nice and in theory the metal cutting blades would slice through most other non-metal things like butter.

Thoughts?

You're probably overthinking the blades and the impact they'll have. 99% of the efficacy and vibration in a cut is based on how you're holding it, how the piece is held/tensioned, and your own movements during the cut. The blade brand and material is going to be less impactful than you think. Stick to a decent brand (all the ones at HD are fine) and worry about carbide tipped when you're cutting through metal.

The kit you linked is good, but just from a value perspective, not a "you need those specific blades" perspective. I buy blades based on value since they're disposable items. If I have a unique/important cut that might need a specialized blade, then I might fuss over it, otherwise I'll just grab a blade that meets the job from my drawer.

And to clarify, the "metal" blades aren't going to cut through other non-metal items like butter. Blades are generally used for different purposes based on 2 main characteristics (simplifying and ignoring blade shape/length): - TPI (teeth per inch) and blade material.

Metal blades will have insane high TPI since it only makes it through metal by taking tiny nibbles out (lots of little teeth) and generally more likely to be carbide tipped to resist wear and deal with hardened metals. Wood blades will have low TPI (large teeth to take rougher chunks out of the softer wood) and may or may not be carbide tipped (generally demo blades will be for any nails that get in the way that you may not know the composition of). So metal blades are indeed better at cutting harder things, but with its tiny teeth, when cutting wood, metal blades can get jammed up with sawdust and lose efficacy - you want the big teeth as they'll better expel the cut material from the kerf. Metal blades will be slower than molasses

Long story short, metal blades are good for metal, wood for wood, etc. Going for carbide tipped for a blade that you're going to do tree pruning with is unnecessary. The blade will get worn and potentially bent long before the teeth benefit from the carbide tip. Save the carbide for a demo blade and maybe a metal blade to keep handy for when you might run up against a really hard metal.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by Ducay

You're probably overthinking the blades and the impact they'll have. 99% of the efficacy and vibration in a cut is based on how you're holding it, how the piece is held/tensioned, and your own movements during the cut. The blade brand and material is going to be less impactful than you think. Stick to a decent brand (all the ones at HD are fine) and worry about carbide tipped when you're cutting through metal.

The kit you linked is good, but just from a value perspective, not a "you need those specific blades" perspective. I buy blades based on value since they're disposable items. If I have a unique/important cut that might need a specialized blade, then I might fuss over it, otherwise I'll just grab a blade that meets the job from my drawer.

And to clarify, the "metal" blades aren't going to cut through other non-metal items like butter. Blades are generally used for different purposes based on 2 main characteristics (simplifying and ignoring blade shape/length): - TPI (teeth per inch) and blade material.

Metal blades will have insane high TPI since it only makes it through metal by taking tiny nibbles out (lots of little teeth) and generally more likely to be carbide tipped to resist wear and deal with hardened metals. Wood blades will have low TPI (large teeth to take rougher chunks out of the softer wood) and may or may not be carbide tipped (generally demo blades will be for any nails that get in the way that you may not know the composition of). So metal blades are indeed better at cutting harder things, but with its tiny teeth, when cutting wood, metal blades can get jammed up with sawdust and lose efficacy - you want the big teeth as they'll better expel the cut material from the kerf. Metal blades will be slower than molasses

Long story short, metal blades are good for metal, wood for wood, etc. Going for carbide tipped for a blade that you're going to do tree pruning with is unnecessary. The blade will get worn and potentially bent long before the teeth benefit from the carbide tip. Save the carbide for a demo blade and maybe a metal blade to keep handy for when you might run up against a really hard metal.

Good points. For the butter comment, I meant more that the typical DIY job would be completed in no time at all vs a hack saw or hand saw for typical household applications I'd be trying to saw down. Kinda like going from a hand screw driver to power drill. I presumed that discussions on cutting would be generally be about properly fastened/clamped down etc. items, otherwise it's dangerous as F so for the vibration comments I read it would be someone trying to cut off something that's really damn hard. I muddled up the communication about that though. My bad.

I don't disagree with your comments about the jamming/gumming up of the blades and you're probably right that the blades would be bent long before the carbide kicked in. A value kit worth of blades would probably be my primary blades for several years so spending up to 50% more is worth considering for me. I grew up around farms/farmers so I watched quite a few of them do basic repairs and have a gist of the idea. I'm not going to pretend I'm not a newb at DIY though, so your reminder and explanation was highly appreciated.


https://www.homedepot.ca/product/mil...ce-/1000838673

This is basically the comparable value blade kit from Milwaukee. I don't know the difference between metal cutting and metal demo blades, but some of what I researched mentioned that having a demo blade was worth it. The Diablo set is cheaper and has the extra blade type plus a case. A single demo blade is $7 on the HD website. I think I better understand why some of what I read suggested to go with Diablo vs Milwaukee blades.

[3thirty]

If anyone is looking for garage storage Costco has a Proslat deal that ends today.

Free hook kit ($59.99 value) with any 8 x 4 foot panel purchase.

https://www.costco.ca/proslat-8-ft.-...100009387.html

[Maritime Q-Scout]

This is a two parter:

1. In our storage room we have 3 lights, 2 are on a switch by the door and one is a switch in the corner of the room.

I'd like to have all 3 lights on the same switch. Would it be as simple as taking the wires running from the second switch, and running them to one of the other lights and connecting them?

2. If I wanted to add a fourth light, same thing... run from the closest light to the new one? Would it matter if I connect 3 lights at the same place?

Here's a poorly drawn rough diagram of the setup:

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by Maritime Q-Scout

This is a two parter:

1. In our storage room we have 3 lights, 2 are on a switch by the door and one is a switch in the corner of the room.

I'd like to have all 3 lights on the same switch. Would it be as simple as taking the wires running from the second switch, and running them to one of the other lights and connecting them?

2. If I wanted to add a fourth light, same thing... run from the closest light to the new one? Would it matter if I connect 3 lights at the same place?

Here's a poorly drawn rough diagram of the setup:

I'm almost thinking it might be easier and similar costs to just do smart bulbs/hub/dimmer switch vs re-wiring. Wall switch 1 would connect 4 bulbs. Corner switch is always "on" but the light controlled by bulb. Same as 4th light.

[Ducay]

Originally Posted by Maritime Q-Scout

This is a two parter:

1. In our storage room we have 3 lights, 2 are on a switch by the door and one is a switch in the corner of the room.

I'd like to have all 3 lights on the same switch. Would it be as simple as taking the wires running from the second switch, and running them to one of the other lights and connecting them?

2. If I wanted to add a fourth light, same thing... run from the closest light to the new one? Would it matter if I connect 3 lights at the same place?

Here's a poorly drawn rough diagram of the setup:

Ya what you described is fairly easy to do if its an unfinished storage area. If its finished and involves drywall, becomes a bit more of a pain. But ya, totally doable for a DIY'er if its unfinished

[Fuzz]

You could also just throw a motion sensor at S2 and it should come on when everything lights up. Wire a new light at 4 into where light 3 is.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by Fuzz

You could also just throw a motion sensor at S2 and it should come on when everything lights up. Wire a new light at 4 into where light 3 is.

True. And hardware stores seem to be clearing out motion sensor lights all the time.

[Wormius]

Where can you get a hinge for a downspout? So you can properly lift it out of the way when you’re mowing the lawn. I have been using an old clothes hanger, but it’s not very reliable.

[Ducay]

Originally Posted by Wormius

Where can you get a hinge for a downspout? So you can properly lift it out of the way when you’re mowing the lawn. I have been using an old clothes hanger, but it’s not very reliable.

Gutter supplies stores might sell "ZipHinge" product, but honestly, a stainless bolt and nut and you're laughing. I can take a picture of mine but its pretty straightforward

[Maritime Q-Scout]

Unfinished. Open ceiling. Should have mentioned. Drywall isn't an issue.

[Wormius]

Originally Posted by Ducay

Gutter supplies stores might sell "ZipHinge" product, but honestly, a stainless bolt and nut and you're laughing. I can take a picture of mine but its pretty straightforward

Kind of like a rivet then?

[monkeyman]

Originally Posted by Maritime Q-Scout

Unfinished. Open ceiling. Should have mentioned. Drywall isn't an issue.

Are all the lights connected to the same breaker on the breaker panel? I can't image they wouldn't be, but it seems odd that they'd have two switches for a storage room. I'm just wondering if there's a reason for it.
I'm not an electrician, I'm just curious.

[PaperBagger'14]

Originally Posted by Maritime Q-Scout

This is a two parter:

1. In our storage room we have 3 lights, 2 are on a switch by the door and one is a switch in the corner of the room.

I'd like to have all 3 lights on the same switch. Would it be as simple as taking the wires running from the second switch, and running them to one of the other lights and connecting them?

2. If I wanted to add a fourth light, same thing... run from the closest light to the new one? Would it matter if I connect 3 lights at the same place?

Here's a poorly drawn rough diagram of the setup:

This will work but make sure you delete the wire going from S2 to light 3 in case they are on different breakers (long story but 50% chance it could be an issue if you dont delete the wire between the switch and light). A run down list:

1) Delete wire from s2 to light 3.
2) install new wire from light 2 to light 3.
3) install new wire from light 3 to light 4 (if desired).

There is also a chance the electrician ran the wires a little funny, if the above doesnt work PM me and I'll give you the solution.

You are correct that to install a new light, you can go from the closest light to the new location. You may have to splice the wires in the outlet box and run pig tails to the existing light (youtube it). From there you can run your new wire to the new light location.

[DoubleF]

Ducay, you win.

The Hackzall with Diablo 6" and 9" wood blades is ridiculously better than the using the 3-4" Milwaukee wood blade the Hackzall came with. It's not even close. Even if the length had something to do with it, just the difference in teeth alone was significant. Lower TPI and the Diablo blades had angled teeth which really help against gumming up the teeth.

I did a ton of pruning today at my place and parents place. I didn't experiment pruning with the demo blade.

But I agree with you it's not like slicing through things like butter... unless the butter was frozen. Still better than using a hand saw though and I can actually get at tight spaces like the base of the lilac bushes I was pruning.

[81MC]

Removing rust stains from concrete?
Long story short, I was a dummy and made a bunch of metal dust and let it sit under a project for a few months. Need to get it taken care of ASAP, and the best rated product doesn't seem available in Canada.

[topfiverecords]

Originally Posted by 81MC

Removing rust stains from concrete?
Long story short, I was a dummy and made a bunch of metal dust and let it sit under a project for a few months. Need to get it taken care of ASAP, and the best rated product doesn't seem available in Canada.

There’s something about a mixture that includes pouring soda on the concrete that removes oil stains from concrete. Might work for rust. I’ll do some googling if I can find the recipe.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by 81MC

Removing rust stains from concrete?
Long story short, I was a dummy and made a bunch of metal dust and let it sit under a project for a few months. Need to get it taken care of ASAP, and the best rated product doesn't seem available in Canada.

CLR?

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/c...-0530342p.html

[Titan]

On the recip. saw talk i have a ryobi. My trailer hitch pin had a lock on it which seized. I was dreading the process of trying to saw through it. The ryobi with a generic metal blade went through it in about 3 seconds. Was quite satisfying.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by Titan

On the recip. saw talk i have a ryobi. My trailer hitch pin had a lock on it which seized. I was dreading the process of trying to saw through it. The ryobi with a generic metal blade went through it in about 3 seconds. Was quite satisfying.

When I was pruning branches, it was so satisfying to get a good cut. Shortening thin branches that were already on the ground (poor tension) was basically like this though: