I do! Some leftover from my garage, and have kept it in my shed, so it should still be in good shape. It's more than 1/4 sheet, but I can cut a piece off if you want. 99% sure it is 1/2".
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Fuzz For This Useful Post:
Anyone know a good place to get antique size handles for drawers? Fixing up an old piece, and the handle holes are 54mm (2 1/8"). The obvious big box stores don't have any.
Anyone know a good place to get antique size handles for drawers? Fixing up an old piece, and the handle holes are 54mm (2 1/8"). The obvious big box stores don't have any.
Anyone know a good place to get antique size handles for drawers? Fixing up an old piece, and the handle holes are 54mm (2 1/8"). The obvious big box stores don't have any.
Anyone know where I can get a duplicate skeleton key made? We have an antique cabinet that has locking doors but we only have one key for it and are scared about losing it. My understanding is there are a limited number of patterns for the keys so if there is somewhere in the city that sells them that may be good enough to try matching it. I've found some online retailers (i.e. https://www.kennedyhardware.com/skeleton-keys/) but ordering the right one is going to take some luck.
Awesome, thanks! They are a 5 minute drive from my house so I'll just stop in. Dunno how I have never seen them before. They need to get a better handle on their signage.
Anyone know where I can get a duplicate skeleton key made? We have an antique cabinet that has locking doors but we only have one key for it and are scared about losing it. My understanding is there are a limited number of patterns for the keys so if there is somewhere in the city that sells them that may be good enough to try matching it. I've found some online retailers (i.e. https://www.kennedyhardware.com/skeleton-keys/) but ordering the right one is going to take some luck.
Something like this? I'm guessing if you just keep looking online, you'll find something similar. Hopefully one of the two patterns in this link hits, but even at worst case scenario, apparently it's super easy to pick the lock with a bobby pin.
I'm also wondering if there's some lower grade party favors on etsy or Amazon or ebay or something that would work as well, but I'd be wary of it breaking.
In the meanwhile, as silly as this sounds, why not make an impression of the key in clay etc. as a back up prior to you acquiring a new key?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzz
Anyone know a good place to get antique size handles for drawers? Fixing up an old piece, and the handle holes are 54mm (2 1/8"). The obvious big box stores don't have any.
What about those re-purposed building materials stores?
But on the slightly higher end, maybe Schenk Architectural Imports might be able to point you in the right direction?
Something like this? I'm guessing if you just keep looking online, you'll find something similar. Hopefully one of the two patterns in this link hits, but even at worst case scenario, apparently it's super easy to pick the lock with a bobby pin.
I'm also wondering if there's some lower grade party favors on etsy or Amazon or ebay or something that would work as well, but I'd be wary of it breaking.
In the meanwhile, as silly as this sounds, why not make an impression of the key in clay etc. as a back up prior to you acquiring a new key?
Not a bad thought on making a clay impression of it and I'll check out those Lowe's ones. If nothing else they are cheap enough that if they don't work it's not a big deal. Some of the online retailers get pretty pricey with shipping.
So I've had issues with my fridge being warm while my freezer is fine. Had a repair guy in in September and he seemed to fix the problem, however its started up again this last week. Any ideas short of calling him back? Most of the google ideas suggest unplugging the fridge and letting the freezer thaw in case of ice build up.
Just wondering if the hive mind had any other thoughts.
So I've had issues with my fridge being warm while my freezer is fine. Had a repair guy in in September and he seemed to fix the problem, however its started up again this last week. Any ideas short of calling him back? Most of the google ideas suggest unplugging the fridge and letting the freezer thaw in case of ice build up.
Just wondering if the hive mind had any other thoughts.
Mine did that when it was to crowded at the top of the fridge. I think there is a flap that lets cold air enter from the freezer. By having to much stuff up top, it would let air down, then detect a massive cold zone there, and stop letting air down. I think a pie plate was trapping it, and by keeping that zone clear, I've only had a problem when it is crowded.
It's an LG. So I'd make sure you have free flow at the back of the freezer where the vent is, and at the top of the fridge where it enters.
Last edited by Fuzz; 02-18-2020 at 03:11 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to Fuzz For This Useful Post:
Echoing what Fuzz said. First thing I would check is that there is adequate circulation in the fridge and nothing is blocking the flow of cool air entering the fridge.
So I've had issues with my fridge being warm while my freezer is fine. Had a repair guy in in September and he seemed to fix the problem, however its started up again this last week. Any ideas short of calling him back? Most of the google ideas suggest unplugging the fridge and letting the freezer thaw in case of ice build up.
Just wondering if the hive mind had any other thoughts.
What did the repair guy fix? I think that would be a good lead.
Fuzz's idea of airflow is a good one.
Another thing I'd look into is the light. If it's an incandescent bulb, it could be heating up your fridge. I had a recent issue where something went wrong with the light cable in an older LG fridge that came with the house I bought. The fridge light never turned off when the doors were closed. I only found out when my wife complained that the light cover fell off and the fridge was quite warm at the top. I brushed it off for a day or so thinking she carelessly smacked it with some groceries. When I inspected it, I realized the dual incandescent lights bulbs (within spec) weren't turning off and were hot enough to warp/bubble the thick plastic light cover until it fell off. The surrounding plastic was not unaffected either.
Not saying this is specifically your issue, but for a few bucks it doesn't hurt to swap to LED light for less energy usage and less heat anyways.
I'm still debating whether to replace my fridge immediately or Macguyer some battery powered motion sensing light inside the fridge to delay the replacement. I'm not paying an appliance repair guy a few hundred bucks for something like this.
But damn, if I hadn't found out this issue and went on vacation or something, spoiled food would have been the least of my worries. That situation I had was a full on fire hazard. I've never seen this happen before.
This happened within a few weeks of moving in. Coincidentally, the garborator which worked fine before stopped working. The garborator looks like it's at least a decade or two old though. The Fridge looks like it's like 5 years at worst. I need to see whether the garb unit is reset/tripped/jammed before considering to replace it. For those who have done this, is this an easy swap? Should I do this myself or procure the parts and pay a contractor $50 to install it?
Note: I'm pretty darn good at IKEA furniture capability, but quite a newbie/amateur for the handyman stuff but willing to learn.
There is a reset button for the garburator if you don't hear any noise. If it sounds like it is trying to spin, it is probably jammed. There is an allan key slot on the bottom to manually turn it. Make sure it is unplugged before trying this. Just spin it back and forth.
Replacing is pretty straightforward if you buy the same brand. Turn off the breaker, disconnect power, unscrew the drain bolts. Then the whole unit just twists loose, like a big bolt. You can use the same mounting for the new one, so just reverse the procedure. It can be awkward, but it isn't complicated.
Another thing I'd look into is the light. If it's an incandescent bulb, it could be heating up your fridge. I had a recent issue where something went wrong with the light cable in an older LG fridge that came with the house I bought. The fridge light never turned off when the doors were closed. I only found out when my wife complained that the light cover fell off and the fridge was quite warm at the top. I brushed it off for a day or so thinking she carelessly smacked it with some groceries. When I inspected it, I realized the dual incandescent lights bulbs (within spec) weren't turning off and were hot enough to warp/bubble the thick plastic light cover until it fell off. The surrounding plastic was not unaffected either.
Not saying this is specifically your issue, but for a few bucks it doesn't hurt to swap to LED light for less energy usage and less heat anyways.
I'm still debating whether to replace my fridge immediately or Macguyer some battery powered motion sensing light inside the fridge to delay the replacement. I'm not paying an appliance repair guy a few hundred bucks for something like this.
But damn, if I hadn't found out this issue and went on vacation or something, spoiled food would have been the least of my worries. That situation I had was a full on fire hazard. I've never seen this happen before.
That's interesting - we had the same thing happen with an LG fridge that we got with our house. The light didn't turn off overnight. By the next day it had melted the plastic cover and a bunch of the food in the fridge was ruined as it basically turned the top half of the refrigerator into an oven. Those bulbs get surprisingly hot.
I found a bunch of links showing that this is apparently a known issue with LG so I called them and they sent a repair guy out to replace the control unit and cover. It was an older refrigerator than yours though so your issue may be different.
There is a reset button for the garburator if you don't hear any noise. If it sounds like it is trying to spin, it is probably jammed. There is an allan key slot on the bottom to manually turn it. Make sure it is unplugged before trying this. Just spin it back and forth.
Replacing is pretty straightforward if you buy the same brand. Turn off the breaker, disconnect power, unscrew the drain bolts. Then the whole unit just twists loose, like a big bolt. You can use the same mounting for the new one, so just reverse the procedure. It can be awkward, but it isn't complicated.
Good to know. I'll keep that in mind.
I did watch a video on what to diagnose before replacement. Currently there is no sound, nothing when I flick the toggle switch on the wall so I wonder if the reset button has flicked off again. I did push the reset button a few days ago and when I flicked the switch a slight hum was heard, but no garborating. The electric hum stopped a few days later. I didn't have a set of Allan keys on hand to try and crank it, but I'll try cranking it plus pushing the reset button again once I borrow a set of L shaped Allan keys.
The garborator worked for like the half dozen times we had tested it earlier with the realtor and home inspector etc. (Added water prior to turning on of course). Nothing had been put into the garborator before it suddenly stopping working and in actuality, we were planning on testing with a tomato prior to it stopping. Here's hoping it's just somehow jammed and not actually required to be replaced (I get it's relatively simple, but I have like two dozen mini projects and touch ups to do before spending the cost, time and effort to do a garborator).
I've never seen this happen before. 