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Old 11-14-2016, 06:01 PM   #1101
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Not a good idea. Vapor barriers serve a specific purpose, and putting them on the cold side of insulation or between two heated areas of different temperature can cause moisture to get trapped in the structure.

If you want to insulate under the floor and it's going to stay open, I wouldn't attempt any kind of vapor barrier. Just throw up some batt insulation and retain it somehow. You can do something as simple as zig zagging string or wire across, or you could staple up some kind of mesh or chicken wire, or you can buy things like these:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-S...R100/100375163
Interesting, don't they usually do that with garages under living spaces though? Insulate then vapour barrier on the garage side?
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Old 11-14-2016, 06:20 PM   #1102
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Some housewrap or tyvek paper would work well. That would hold the insulation and provide an air barrier to reduce convective heat loss, but still permit moisture to wick out. I don't know if you can buy it in small quantities though.
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Old 11-14-2016, 06:52 PM   #1103
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Interesting, don't they usually do that with garages under living spaces though? Insulate then vapour barrier on the garage side?
That's certainly not best practice and is against code in many locations. That's not to say people don't do it to cut corners, though really no vapor barrier in that situation would probably be preferable rather than having one on the cold side.

The proper way in a cold climate is either a vapor barrier above the joists before the subfloor goes in, spray foam which acts as a vapor barrier, or a dropped ceiling like shown here:

https://www.markham.ca/wps/wcm/conne...2-768248eec4e3

Poly sheeting on the cold side of a wall assembly in a cold climate can result in vapor going out through the wall (or floor in this case) and then condensing into liquid when it hits the cold vapor barrier. It's not the end of world, as it will tend to eventually dry towards the inside before causing too many problems, but it's certainly not the best way to do it, particularly below a bathroom.
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Old 11-14-2016, 07:42 PM   #1104
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I know its too late, but for insulating suspended floor cavities, can't beat the nice firm rigidity of Roxul. Benefits over Fiberglass are marginal, except in this specific case where it will hang tightly in place for ages, versus Fiber which will eventually start sagging down unless strapped or vaped in place (or you shov'er in there real good).
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Old 11-14-2016, 09:02 PM   #1105
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Just out of curiosity, what would you be running in a garage that would need 240?
Welder, compressor, heater, car charging.

I believe that 240v in garages is actually becoming code in Ontario soon, wouldn't be shocked to see it happen in more jurisdictions either. And with more EV models coming on the market, being able to charge quickly in the garage will be a good thing to have.

Last edited by llwhiteoutll; 11-14-2016 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 11-14-2016, 10:11 PM   #1106
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I know its too late, but for insulating suspended floor cavities, can't beat the nice firm rigidity of Roxul. Benefits over Fiberglass are marginal, except in this specific case where it will hang tightly in place for ages, versus Fiber which will eventually start sagging down unless strapped or vaped in place (or you shov'er in there real good).
Strapped the crap out of it. Brought home some 1" webbing and a pneumatic stapler from work so it was easy and looks really good. I think it'll stay in place forever.

The insulation I bought was R20. Didn't see any Roxul that high, but didn't look all that hard tbh.

Tomorrow morning will be the moment of truth...hope the floor is warmer.
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Old 11-21-2016, 08:50 PM   #1107
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I just want to show off our recent bathroom reno a bit, there's still some small details to finish (baseboards, towel rack), but after a week of living with a pile of tools/paint supplies where the sink should be... we have a functional bathroom again.

HUUUGE thanks to Surferguy for doing a killer job on the tile floor, and getting me out of more than one bind along the way. Including taking the time to say "that looks like crap, here's how to do it properly" when he saw my first shoddy drywall repair attempt.




Few more pics
Spoiler!


I'm seriously in love with this hex tile, it's not really period accurate for a 70's condo, but it's a classic enough look that it should match just about any trends in paint colours/wall coverings to come.
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Old 11-21-2016, 09:03 PM   #1108
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Looks great bud! Glad I could help you out and teach you a few things along the way!
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Old 11-21-2016, 10:26 PM   #1109
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That hex tile - I love it and have it too, but I am jealous of your application, with the black border. Very classy.
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Old 11-21-2016, 11:16 PM   #1110
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Holy crap that's amazing tiling job. I've done some tiling work and I can attest to how difficult it is, especially those hexagonal tiles.
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Old 11-22-2016, 06:32 AM   #1111
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Tiles look great, I did one the same style. All around looks fantastic.
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Old 11-22-2016, 07:16 AM   #1112
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Beauty tile. Next thing, change door handle
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Old 11-22-2016, 07:40 AM   #1113
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Beauty tile. Next thing, change door handle
Aww man thanks or pointing that one out. Except changing the bathroom doorknob means it won't match the rest of the doorknobs in that hallway. So I'll be on the hook for four new doorknobs just to get the bathroom to match it's decor :P
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Old 11-22-2016, 08:05 AM   #1114
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Do it, it's worth it. I got a deal on a 4 pack a couple years ago, just watch out for sales. Speaking of which...if anyone wants some fake brass door knobs....
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Old 11-22-2016, 08:12 AM   #1115
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Do it, it's worth it. I got a deal on a 4 pack a couple years ago, just watch out for sales. Speaking of which...if anyone wants some fake brass door knobs....
Perhaps there is a vigilante group that could use them?
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Old 11-22-2016, 08:19 AM   #1116
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Aww man thanks or pointing that one out. Except changing the bathroom doorknob means it won't match the rest of the doorknobs in that hallway. So I'll be on the hook for four new doorknobs just to get the bathroom to match it's decor :P
Ha, that's how renovating works! It is never ending and one renovation leads to another.
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Old 11-22-2016, 08:49 AM   #1117
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Jaydorn great job! The tile job reminds me that I need to clean my white grout...

Can anyone recommend a good product/procedure for cleaning white grout?

Word of advice, do not put white grout in a mudroom...overlooked that when I bought my new home.
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Old 11-22-2016, 09:53 AM   #1118
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I really like your vanity cabinet/sink. Can I ask how much it cost for that unit?
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Old 11-22-2016, 12:14 PM   #1119
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I really like your vanity cabinet/sink. Can I ask how much it cost for that unit?
Both the vanity & the sink top are from Lowe's.

I caught a sale and ended up being just under $900 delivered, took about 2 weeks from ordering to have the items in hand.

However I will say the frosting on the two glass panes in the doors is inconsistent, one of them looks fine, the other has ripples in it and it looks like the "film" wasn't applied correctly in the factory. Given that we've already cut/modified/installed the vanity I'm not sure what could be done about it, but overall it's a sharp looking set, hope it holds up.
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Old 11-22-2016, 02:01 PM   #1120
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Aww man thanks or pointing that one out. Except changing the bathroom doorknob means it won't match the rest of the doorknobs in that hallway. So I'll be on the hook for four new doorknobs just to get the bathroom to match it's decor :P
If you get a doorknob that is the same style as the brass ones, but a different color, then you only need to change half a door knob - if you are lucky.
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