I responded to a post before reading to the end of the tread.
Big deal.
Any level headed person would have deduced that I didn't read the next post yet before quoting the first. That happens every few seconds here.
Next time when you post, please add "Don't respond to this post until you've read my next post further down where I clarify something".
I mean any level headed person could have just replied "Sorry I hadn't read the rest of the replies" after he got called out on it, instead of continuing on.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calgaryblood
Looks like you'll need one long before I will. May I suggest deflection king?
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An engineer might have suggested 8 feet and piles too. Sometimes they go above and beyond code to accommodate special requirements of the builders...like maybe they wanted 8' by 4' tiles or something that require absolute stability in the foundation.
I mean any level headed person could have just replied "Sorry I hadn't read the rest of the replies" after he got called out on it, instead of continuing on.
Come on. He was clearly egging on a fight. I don’t have to be meek.
Come on. He was clearly egging on a fight. I don’t have to be meek.
The reason I got snippy immediately was because a) you replied without reading the rest of the thread, and b) because your reply did not include the reason you were contradicting me. That's just poor posting, man. Why drag down the forum when what you could have done is a) read the rest of the thread and realized it was cleared up, or b) stated the reason you were contradicting me?
It could have gone like this:
(nothing at all from you)
or
"Actually, some only require a 4' foundation"
To which I would have said:
"Oh yeah, I was just saying that it requires a foundation. Didn't see that he meant an 8', but we already cleared that up"
To which you would say:
"Oops, didn't see that"
Instead of us totally wrecking the thread for a whole page, it could have been like that. What's the rush to be right, anyway? Why would you just quote an incorrect post and rush right to telling me that I'm wrong? Don't you at least care to see that maybe someone already corrected me, or that maybe I clarified? You just really, really need to be on record as having the right answer to an ambiguous question?
Much like I take the time to correct crappy driving, I have now taken the time to correct crappy posting. Next time, read the rest of the thread and then decide whether your dooshy "no" is a necessary post, aiight?
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The reason I got snippy immediately was because a) you replied without reading the rest of the thread, and b) because your reply did not include the reason you were contradicting me. That's just poor posting, man. Why drag down the forum when what you could have done is a) read the rest of the thread and realized it was cleared up, or b) stated the reason you were contradicting me?
It could have gone like this:
(nothing at all from you)
or
"Actually, some only require a 4' foundation"
To which I would have said:
"Oh yeah, I was just saying that it requires a foundation. Didn't see that he meant an 8', but we already cleared that up"
To which you would say:
"Oops, didn't see that"
Instead of us totally wrecking the thread for a whole page, it could have been like that. What's the rush to be right, anyway? Why would you just quote an incorrect post and rush right to telling me that I'm wrong? Don't you at least care to see that maybe someone already corrected me, or that maybe I clarified? You just really, really need to be on record as having the right answer to an ambiguous question?
Much like I take the time to correct crappy driving, I have now taken the time to correct crappy posting. Next time, read the rest of the thread and then decide whether your dooshy "no" is a necessary post, aiight?
You didn't need to get snippy just because you got a response to your post, in any time order. Your post wasn't correct. I didn't further clarify 'no' in that single post just as you didn't further clarify on 'yes' in that single post.
It's not a forum requirement as I'm aware to read to the end of the thread before responding to a post.
No, not whatsoever. Buy the appropriate nails. And then do this the next time you see that guy.
To get the thread back on track...
I must draw from the well of knowledge again.
All the joist hanger nails I found are 1.5 inches. So do I put 1.5 inch nails both into the ledgerboard, rim joists, and the joist? I figured I needed to put 3 inch nails into the ledgerboard, 1.5 inch into the joists. And is 10 gauge good enough?
All the joist hanger nails I found are 1.5 inches. So do I put 1.5 inch nails both into the ledgerboard, rim joists, and the joist? I figured I needed to put 3 inch nails into the ledgerboard, 1.5 inch into the joists. And is 10 gauge good enough?
Each type of hanger has a specification for which nail you have to use for that particular hanger. IIRC you can find it on the box of hangers, or if not that, you can look online.
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Regretting the back sliding door radar led bulbs. They're so sensitive if my window blinds are down in my bedroom I set them off going near them. From upstairs.
So. Skip the backyard light altogether or go with dusk to dawn LEDs with a low brightness?
Last edited by White Out 403; 08-01-2019 at 11:07 PM.
Can anyone point me to a good site to order custom interior French doors?
The doorway to my home office is 45" ... so I'm guessing I would need doors approx. 22" inch factoring in the frame.
I've checked the standard stores in my area, but no one has them that size.
Thanks!
Windsor Plywood my friend. They'll be able to order in whatever sizes needed (they'll still come in standard dimensions) but can rip down as needed to custom sizes to fit. You're going to lose at least 2" on the frames& shims, so I'd assume closer to 42" for the doors themselves when you factor in other spacing allowances. Likely a pair of 22" doors ripped down to the correct size to fit.
That said, kind of an odd/awkward size for french doors. Have you considered going with something like a barn door style mechanism? Office is a perfect use case given you're not looking for a perfect seal (like you would need in a bathroom, but people still oddly use them there, but I digress) and would be closer much more rarely than other doors. Would allow you to use a similar style or whatever style of your choosing and you can then get away with a more standard size door since you want some overlap anyways.
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I imagine there is a Toronto version of Windsor Plywood out there.
Im also not a fan of the barn door look (and overkill of use these days. Nothing like having a bathroom door everyone can peek, hear, and smell through) but you can get good hardware kits and just use normal doors in lieu of barn looking doors. There are hidden hardware versions out there too, so really the sky is the limit these days for applications.
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Alright CP, I've got a reno project in mind, but I'm a touch lost as to where to look, and the order of operations.
We've got fugly 15-20 year old carpet on the stairs & the second story of our townhome. We're looking to redo the three bedrooms/hallway with something like vinyl planks, but we want to keep carpet on the stairs (worried about slips & falls), replace the bannister, and repaint the high stairwell/hallway.
My hope right now is to focus on the stairwell, the hallway and the master bedroom, with the other two rooms being done at a later date. Mainly to allow us some living/storage space during the work.
Which brings us to my questions:
- Anyone have any experience/recommendations for replacing an L shaped stair bannister (43" x 60")?
- Anyone have any flooring companies/installers they’d recommend?
- Any experience with carpeting just a stairwell?
- How much time would you allot for installation assuming I’ve got the carpet removed/floors swept/baseboards removed when they come in? (Master bedroom is about 12’ x 10’, hallway 4’ x 6’… stairs… I dunno)
My rough plan right now is to take a week off, move the master bedroom furniture into one of the other rooms, rip up the carpet/tacking strips, remove the baseboards and then get pros in to install the flooring/carpet, new bannister and painting.
Last edited by Regular_John; 08-20-2019 at 09:01 AM.
You can most certainly carpet just a stairwell. I can't recommend anybody because everybody I've ever had to do carpet has sucked.
The bannister will cost a ton. Probably at least $10K. They're all done by hand still and is very labour intensive, and usually only the best carpenters get to work on them. I imagine glass bannisters would cost around the same.
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