The Home Improvement Thread

[BlackArcher101]

Anyone have first hand experience using the Sika Post Fix or other expandable foam instead of concrete to fix a post? Contemplating using it for three 4x4's for basically a privacy screen style installation, but a bit unsure based on reviews.

[Fuzz]

Yes. I've used it on a 4 foot chain link fence. It was fine for that, but not great on the gate post. After using it for that, no way would I trust it to hold up a full fence, particularly given our wind. The foam just as too much give to it, and I imagine will break down. I've watched the videos, I don't buy it. If you do do it, have a garbage handy and use the gloves. It's super sticky and gets everywhere if you are not careful.

I like to use gravel in the base(2-3 inches), then do a bit of road crush, and a bit of post haste. Add water, then keep layering and compacting(just mash at it with a metal bar). A bag of post haste lasts 2-3 posts this way. The benefit of not going just post haste is it stays a little less firm, and allows water to drain. If you ever remove it, it will breeak apart easier than just concrete. But if you are lazy, mixing up post haste is pretty quick. Make sure you have a way to keep them vertical as it dries.

[timun]

Originally Posted by Leondros

That certainly is an option - the quote we got was expensive (over $2K) for what I felt would have been a quick 1 day job max.

If it has to be completely re-done, and depending on the size of your house... yeah, $2k probably isn't out of line. Keep in mind it's not just a matter of re-applying the parging, one also has to do a lot of prepwork to make it adhere as best as it can.

The only other alternative that may compete on price, but which I admittedly have no experience with whatsoever, is paint. I'm honestly not sure where to get the right type of paint, but it would be something similar to but not exactly the same kind as you'd apply to a concrete floor. Again, lots of prepwork would be involved, making sure the concrete is clean and dry, etc. If you pay someone else to do this I would wager it won't be any less expensive than parging.

[Shazam]

Yeah if it's all the parging, $2K seems like a very reasonable price.

[Fuzz]

$2k is what my neighbour quoted me 5 years ago, who does it for a living. That's removal and reapply on a 1000 sq foot bungalow.

[81MC]

Originally Posted by BlackArcher101

Anyone have first hand experience using the Sika Post Fix or other expandable foam instead of concrete to fix a post? Contemplating using it for three 4x4's for basically a privacy screen style installation, but a bit unsure based on reviews.

Tried it on a 4x4 for a small close line. Ended up digging it out the next day and using concrete

[Nufy]

Originally Posted by Cube Inmate

I'm looking for recommendations for a kitchen design+general contractor for a full (non-structural) reno. Everything but the walls goes! Or anti-recommendations, if you want to warn me off anyone (via PM to keep CP from getting sued)!

I'm too old to do this labor myself but I generally know what's what with construction and I really value transparency in a contractor.

Thanks, brain trust!

I just did this through Ikea last fall.

They recommended Starcraft Construction and we went with them.

Pretty happy with the end result.

I did demo myself. They organized all their subs and trades.

[Leondros]

Originally Posted by Nufy

I just did this through Ikea last fall.

They recommended Starcraft Construction and we went with them.

Pretty happy with the end result.

I did demo myself. They organized all their subs and trades.

Any idea on cost if you don't mind me asking? Looking at maybe going this route for my rental. Feel free to PM.

[photon]

We used Ikea when we suite-ed our walkout basement for my parents. We had some estimates from typical kitchen guys too and one said he often uses Ikea cabinets for his stuff rather than building his own boxes. He said it was cheaper to buy an Ikea box than buying the materials to build his own box let alone the cost of labour. Then he'd put on his own doors and stuff. I thought that was interesting.

My dad did the install except for the countertop so I can't really comment on the install cost, but the cabinets themselves are pretty good value IMO. Just be very careful with the planning and layout. Though if you get someone to install them maybe they can help plan where their experience would probably be worth a ton.

My biggest issue was stock.. Some stuff was in store and you could pick it up. Some stuff only showed up for delivery so had to purchase that separately. And the rest wasn't available at either and they will have no idea as to when it might be available again. Could be tomorrow, could be in a month, could be never. Made it really difficult to plan since almost 2/3 of our kitchen wasn't in stock.

We ended up ordering for pickup from Edmonton where they had tons of stock and then going up there with a trailer to pick it up. Why they can't shift stock from store to store is beyond me.

Mind you they don't even know what their own site says or means. I was trying to order a few brown PAX closet organizers and got everything except some shelves. They said "don't worry it'll be back in stock soon". Their site said "Last chance" or something and I eventually figured out that meant discontinued, but two different customer service people swore up and down that Last Chance didn't mean discontinued (even after I linked them the page that said it) and said I should be able to get my shelves soon.

I ended up getting the last few shelves larger and cut them down to size :/

[Nufy]

Originally Posted by Leondros

Any idea on cost if you don't mind me asking? Looking at maybe going this route for my rental. Feel free to PM.

We did whole floor eng h/w flooring as well as granite countertops and new lighting / tile work etc...

All in cost us about 80 K.

[Fuzz]

Do the Ikea boxes come assembled or flat pack?

[topfiverecords]

Originally Posted by Fuzz

Do the Ikea boxes come assembled or flat pack?

I hope you know the answer to that.

[opendoor]

Originally Posted by photon

We had some estimates from typical kitchen guys too and one said he often uses Ikea cabinets for his stuff rather than building his own boxes. He said it was cheaper to buy an Ikea box than buying the materials to build his own box let alone the cost of labour. Then he'd put on his own doors and stuff. I thought that was interesting.

I've done that. Ikea's boxes are pretty good and their drawer hardware is fantastic.

I made the doors/drawer fronts myself, but you can also have them made by someone. All in all, it's a pretty cost-efficient way to get a custom looking kitchen. People hear Ikea and think the quality will be junk, but their kitchen stuff is actually excellent quality for the most aprt.

[iggypop]

I’d recommend https://www.canadakitchens.ca/ if IKEA doesn’t work out. They are flat packed, but solid wood. Very happy with them, after IKEA was delayed last year during COVID.

[Ironhorse]

Originally Posted by Icon

Has anyone installed attic vents & have any recommendations on the type of vent or system to try to bring the overall heat in their home down in the summer? We have an AC unit and it seems to need to kick on to keep the house anywhere near the setpoint, even when it's not as hot as that outside (and if we open windows to get some airflow overnight or in the morning, etc). House is south-facing and those rooms do get hotter than the rest, also considering tinting those and/or replacing them with new/better windows.

Not an easy fix, but when we had our roof re shingled about 10 years ago, we had them put in continuous ridge venting instead of those little pop-up vents. Made a huge difference in how long the AC had to run into the evening / night, and also seems to keep the house a lot cooler before the AC needs to kick in.

[Shazam]

Originally Posted by Icon

Has anyone installed attic vents & have any recommendations on the type of vent or system to try to bring the overall heat in their home down in the summer? We have an AC unit and it seems to need to kick on to keep the house anywhere near the setpoint, even when it's not as hot as that outside (and if we open windows to get some airflow overnight or in the morning, etc). House is south-facing and those rooms do get hotter than the rest, also considering tinting those and/or replacing them with new/better windows.

#1: Check how much insulation you have in the attic. If it isn't R50 (I'd go for R60 or R70) then it needs to be topped up. My 2002 house had R30.

#2: Add vents like Ironhorse said. It's really cheap to do but not so cheap that you can't find someone to do it.

#3: Windows. If they're vinyl and the vinyl is in good shape, consider tinting. Or, you can replace just the glass. This is a very effective, cheap(er), quick way to upgrade your windows for winter weather.

Oh I should mention that windows in general, even the best ones, have very low R ratings. They're really not all that helpful.

[Fuzz]

Electricians:


I will have an external outlet in a box on the house. I want to run conduit from that outlet along the side of the deck, to another box near the BBQ. Can I use NMD90 in a 3/4" pvc conduit all above ground? Or is there a better way to do this?

[RW99]

Any recommendations for local supplier and installer of a doggie door sliding patio or regular exterior door?

[DoubleF]

I have a bit of a complex question relating a utility room/poly B replacement project. I was wondering whether it makes sense to do the project in full (ie: guys out there anyways/cost savings/less time inconvenienced at home) or if there are aspects that can be delayed/are optional.

I was going to wait till we get more energy credits and discounts to do the work but I'm wondering if I should decide not to bother and just start shopping for quotes.

I can elect to do nothing this year without issue, but these quirks and sweltering heat is starting to get on my nerves. I just found some water damage in the basement and I can't figure out how it happened because of how random the spot is where the water came through the basement ceiling.

Project:
- Replace all the poly B in the house (I've had 3 pin hole leaks within the last 2 years)
- Install thermostatic valves or pressure valves to all showers/bathtubs in the house (flush the toilet and AAAGHGH).
- Get rid of water softener machine.

- Install AC (although I was told by two installers that my HVAC system is too old to install AC which makes no sense?)
- Replace dual 1980s furnaces (still work fine, but incompatible with AC and smart thermostats, might as well make it a bigger project)
- Replace hot water tank (Works fine, but I believe it was installed in 2006 so it is getting close to replacement age)
- Replace Humidifier (Works, but is a drum type that leaks)
- Pull a bundle of wire to thermostats so that there is a common wire to power thermostat, control AC, control humidifier etc.

Would it make sense to talk to someone like Pete the plumber and do a one stop shop for the project? Or should I break apart the piping and HVAC project?

EDIT: For AC, I was thinking two options.

Option 1: Full AC unit, which might need some rework of ducting etc. which is why I was thinking to do the furnace with the unit. Doing this might also facilitate the rest of the work in the utility room?

Assume: Poly B, valves, hot water tank, furnace humidifier and remove water softener total $20-25K. High efficiency dual furnace + AC + wiring = $20-30K.

Option 2: Don't replace furnaces. Go with mini-split AC instead to 4 bedrooms, 1 den and 1 family room.

Assume: Poly B, valves, hot water tank, furnace humidifier and remove water softener total $20-25K. No replace furnace, but mini split 3 large rooms = 3 small rooms = $10-15K. Less immediate cash flow, but probably 5 years after this project, the furnaces will still have to be replaced.

[photon]

Anyone recommend someone that can do an OTR Microwave install?