08-03-2020, 10:54 AM
|
#2921
|
Franchise Player
|
I did the same thing in 2014 so I'm not sure if codes have changed. But I had the same options basically. I ended up just adding a second furnace and duct work. It was not as bad as you'd imagine. But it depends on the layout of your rooms too. I basically just added a bulkhead for the main run crossing the joists. Then it just required small access holes to get runs that went with the joists. A good renovator/furnace installer can really help you out.
I believe the bath fan also has to be tied in to the furnace as does the hood fan. But that may have changed.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to OMG!WTF! For This Useful Post:
|
|
08-03-2020, 11:32 AM
|
#2922
|
The new goggles also do nothing.
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Calgary
|
Yeah I've got an hvac guy coming over this week to give me an idea. We already have nicely designed bulkheads so yeah we can probably just run inside those (tried to keep as much of the ceiling 9' as we could). The house already has two furnaces so maybe they could even just redo it so one worked for just the basement.
Hm interesting about the bath and hood vents, the range is on an exterior wall and it's a walkout so we were just going to go outside with it (and the bathroom vent already goes outside), I'll make sure and ask about that.
__________________
Uncertainty is an uncomfortable position.
But certainty is an absurd one.
|
|
|
08-23-2020, 01:35 PM
|
#2923
|
Scoring Winger
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Okotoks
|
Basement insulation question:
Our house is about 13 years old and looking at developing the basement. It is cold, cold down there in the winter. It has typical batt insulation between studs. I’m looking at doin TN something like Quik Therm for the walls and floor. Anyone done this before or what have you done to warm your basement up and take the chill out of it besides adding in another furnace?
Thanks in advance!
|
|
|
08-23-2020, 02:06 PM
|
#2924
|
Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Hyperbole Chamber
|
What is the build date?
If you have standard batt insulation between studs, fully sealed poly vapour barrier and no drafts from windows and penetrations then more insulation isn’t going to be the first solution. Surely it wouldn’t be a bad idea but the current insulation done properly should be sufficient to hit a minimum threshold. Proper heat supply and cold air draw, pipe insulation on cold air intakes, etc are where I would go first. Most people close off their basement heat registers to force more air upstairs but what they end up doing is worsening their comfort. Hot air rises. If you send it down first, it brings up the basement temperature, warming the main floor structure so underfoot is more comfortable. When your feet are warm you feel warmer. Warmer air in the basement recirculates through the return putting less strain on the furnace. If it’s a well built home, dricore subfloor with good underlay under carpet makes a difference.
* There are plenty of variable factors. Homes higher out of the ground have less thermal mass around their foundation. Homes with lots of basement windows have more heat loss at lower elevations. Walk-outs. Homes with depressed side entrances. Poorly insulated joist rims. Main floor cantilevers and associated thermal bridging. Uninsulated bath fan lines. Poorly positioned or limited heat registers. Under sized furnaces. Upper level factors contributing to colder internal temperatures that sink to the lowest elevation.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to topfiverecords For This Useful Post:
|
|
08-23-2020, 09:28 PM
|
#2925
|
Loves Teh Chat!
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by photon
I'm looking at doing a legal suite in a basement and one of the requirements is to have a separate heating system. The options so far I've seen are a separate furnace and ducting system, and electric baseboard heating with some kind of heat recovery circulation system which also needs a separate duct work.
Problem is the basement is already finished, so to put in and alter existing duct work I think would require tearing down a decent amount of drywall.
Anyone know of any other options? I was thinking of in floor heating, my condo has that and it doesn't have any kind of air circulation. Would I be able to just seal of the existing ducts for the basement and put in in floor heating? Or would that still require some air circulation?
Any other options?
|
When was the suite put in? If it was before 2018 you can continue to just have 1 furnace I thought.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Torture For This Useful Post:
|
|
08-23-2020, 09:45 PM
|
#2926
|
The new goggles also do nothing.
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Calgary
|
The suite is new (i.e. the kitchen), but the basement was finished like 10 years ago.
I talked to the permitting guy and he said basically if we want to have a range or whatever then we need to have a development permit to have a legal suite, and that requires the separate heating system.
I did have an HVAC guy over to do a quote, and he said even with in floor heating I would still need a heat exchanger and ducts and stuff. So I'm putting in another furnace, it's the cheapest of the options
I'll get that money back through rent so I guess it's not terrible, and we managed to minimize the amount of drywall we tore down. And I imagine having a legal suite could be a selling feature down the road.
__________________
Uncertainty is an uncomfortable position.
But certainty is an absurd one.
|
|
|
08-23-2020, 11:05 PM
|
#2927
|
Scoring Winger
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Okotoks
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by topfiverecords
What is the build date?
If you have standard batt insulation between studs, fully sealed poly vapour barrier and no drafts from windows and penetrations then more insulation isn’t going to be the first solution. Surely it wouldn’t be a bad idea but the current insulation done properly should be sufficient to hit a minimum threshold. Proper heat supply and cold air draw, pipe insulation on cold air intakes, etc are where I would go first. Most people close off their basement heat registers to force more air upstairs but what they end up doing is worsening their comfort. Hot air rises. If you send it down first, it brings up the basement temperature, warming the main floor structure so underfoot is more comfortable. When your feet are warm you feel warmer. Warmer air in the basement recirculates through the return putting less strain on the furnace. If it’s a well built home, dricore subfloor with good underlay under carpet makes a difference.
* There are plenty of variable factors. Homes higher out of the ground have less thermal mass around their foundation. Homes with lots of basement windows have more heat loss at lower elevations. Walk-outs. Homes with depressed side entrances. Poorly insulated joist rims. Main floor cantilevers and associated thermal bridging. Uninsulated bath fan lines. Poorly positioned or limited heat registers. Under sized furnaces. Upper level factors contributing to colder internal temperatures that sink to the lowest elevation.
|
Thanks for the reply!
Build was 2006/7 when we moved in.
It’s a basic basement in that the builder did the minimum for code for the basement. So heat is run, but is all on the ceiling, nine runs down any walls as there is not interior walls, just 2x4 with batts and vapour barrier along the cement walls. Cold air vent is also on the ceiling. I don’t have an issue runni those down into newly framed room walls and such, but my main concern is it is shivering cold in the winter time and I don’t want to do all that and then realize that it wasn’t enough to suffice. But if that and the dricore or similar would help the problem then I’m good with that as I’m not so ambitious that I want to redo the exterior walls.
Thanks again for your help!
|
|
|
08-24-2020, 09:37 AM
|
#2928
|
Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Hyperbole Chamber
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by STAMPEDRED
Thanks for the reply!
Build was 2006/7 when we moved in.
It’s a basic basement in that the builder did the minimum for code for the basement. So heat is run, but is all on the ceiling, nine runs down any walls as there is not interior walls, just 2x4 with batts and vapour barrier along the cement walls. Cold air vent is also on the ceiling. I don’t have an issue runni those down into newly framed room walls and such, but my main concern is it is shivering cold in the winter time and I don’t want to do all that and then realize that it wasn’t enough to suffice. But if that and the dricore or similar would help the problem then I’m good with that as I’m not so ambitious that I want to redo the exterior walls.
Thanks again for your help!
|
I see now that you said 2013 in your original post so I shouldn't have asked about build date. That age definitely makes a difference in my perspective. If you said 1940 and it was a partially developed space I could see there's probably a lot of potential for unknown issues. 2013 though, you should be at a good starting point.
Bringing the cold air return down to floor level will be one step. Certainly heat registers brought down to a low level in interior walls is a great idea, but plenty of homes without that done aren't freezing.
If you can, pull back a bit of the poly/insulation. Is there a 1/2" - 1" air space between the foundation and the framing? This helps with thermal bridging between the foundation and the wall studs. Is there poly behind the wall up to grade? This keeps moisture transferred through the concrete from destroying the Rvalue of the batts.
When are you planning on finishing out the area? If it's not for a while, doing some simpler things in stages would allow you to monitor what actually improves things over the coming winter.
If you're ambitious and want to go all out as it's a space you'll use a lot in the future, then before you finish would be the time to improve the insulation. You can replace the batts with a higher R value batt if you wanted to go one more step but not all the way to Quik Therm, but compare the costs.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to topfiverecords For This Useful Post:
|
|
08-24-2020, 10:13 AM
|
#2929
|
Scoring Winger
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Okotoks
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by topfiverecords
I see now that you said 2013 in your original post so I shouldn't have asked about build date. That age definitely makes a difference in my perspective. If you said 1940 and it was a partially developed space I could see there's probably a lot of potential for unknown issues. 2013 though, you should be at a good starting point.
Bringing the cold air return down to floor level will be one step. Certainly heat registers brought down to a low level in interior walls is a great idea, but plenty of homes without that done aren't freezing.
If you can, pull back a bit of the poly/insulation. Is there a 1/2" - 1" air space between the foundation and the framing? This helps with thermal bridging between the foundation and the wall studs. Is there poly behind the wall up to grade? This keeps moisture transferred through the concrete from destroying the Rvalue of the batts.
When are you planning on finishing out the area? If it's not for a while, doing some simpler things in stages would allow you to monitor what actually improves things over the coming winter.
If you're ambitious and want to go all out as it's a space you'll use a lot in the future, then before you finish would be the time to improve the insulation. You can replace the batts with a higher R value batt if you wanted to go one more step but not all the way to Quik Therm, but compare the costs.
|
Thanks again, I really appreciate it!
I gave Quik Therm a call and their prices are quite reasonable for those who may look - Less than $1 sqft for the floor covering. And 1" added to the walls is about the same price so I may do that anyway.
I'll definitely peak into the walls as you said and see what is going on behind them. We are not going to develop all the space at once, but at least do a bedroom. I'll drop the heat run from the ceiling as its right next to the window and see about running the col air to the floor as opposed o the ceiling where they are located.
Thanks again, really appreciate it!
|
|
|
08-24-2020, 10:20 AM
|
#2930
|
Franchise Player
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by topfiverecords
I see now that you said 2013 in your original post so I shouldn't have asked about build date. That age definitely makes a difference in my perspective. If you said 1940 and it was a partially developed space I could see there's probably a lot of potential for unknown issues. 2013 though, you should be at a good starting point.
Bringing the cold air return down to floor level will be one step. Certainly heat registers brought down to a low level in interior walls is a great idea, but plenty of homes without that done aren't freezing.
If you can, pull back a bit of the poly/insulation. Is there a 1/2" - 1" air space between the foundation and the framing? This helps with thermal bridging between the foundation and the wall studs. Is there poly behind the wall up to grade? This keeps moisture transferred through the concrete from destroying the Rvalue of the batts.
When are you planning on finishing out the area? If it's not for a while, doing some simpler things in stages would allow you to monitor what actually improves things over the coming winter.
If you're ambitious and want to go all out as it's a space you'll use a lot in the future, then before you finish would be the time to improve the insulation. You can replace the batts with a higher R value batt if you wanted to go one more step but not all the way to Quik Therm, but compare the costs.
|
Noob question:
I understand why you'd want to put the warm air vents at floor level, but why the cold air returns? I'm reading that it's more important to put the cold air returns at floor level compared to the warm air vents. Seems counter intuitive to me.
I probably will be finishing my basement in about 5 years as the kids grow. I need to start learning.
|
|
|
08-24-2020, 10:29 AM
|
#2931
|
Franchise Player
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by CroFlames
Noob question:
I understand why you'd want to put the warm air vents at floor level, but why the cold air returns? I'm reading that it's more important to put the cold air returns at floor level compared to the warm air vents. Seems counter intuitive to me.
I probably will be finishing my basement in about 5 years as the kids grow. I need to start learning.
|
I think it's because cold air sinks to the floor. So the cold air return would draw that air out while leaving the warm air behind. But I clearly remember having to move a cold air return up to mid wall level in a bedroom of my legal basement suite to satisfy an inspector. But I don't remember why that was.
|
|
|
08-24-2020, 02:17 PM
|
#2932
|
Pent-up
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Plutanamo Bay.
|
Anyone ever do upgrades to a pre-fabricated sunroom addition? I have this sunroom and the ceiling panels are 6” thick, so the foam insulation within is not cutting it to where I want my R level to be in the home. There is no way to drop the ceiling, and I believe the only alternative I have is rebuilding the roof for this portion. I am concerned about adding weight though.
|
|
|
08-24-2020, 02:42 PM
|
#2933
|
Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Hyperbole Chamber
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scroopy Noopers
Anyone ever do upgrades to a pre-fabricated sunroom addition? I have this sunroom and the ceiling panels are 6” thick, so the foam insulation within is not cutting it to where I want my R level to be in the home. There is no way to drop the ceiling, and I believe the only alternative I have is rebuilding the roof for this portion. I am concerned about adding weight though.
|
I'd go with a first step of talking to a company that does fabricated sunrooms now and see what they think.
Your sunroom has solid ceiling panels? Thought a sunroom was glass, glass, and more glass.
Last edited by topfiverecords; 08-24-2020 at 03:16 PM.
|
|
|
08-24-2020, 02:58 PM
|
#2934
|
Franchise Player
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Not sure
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by CroFlames
Noob question:
I understand why you'd want to put the warm air vents at floor level, but why the cold air returns? I'm reading that it's more important to put the cold air returns at floor level compared to the warm air vents. Seems counter intuitive to me.
I probably will be finishing my basement in about 5 years as the kids grow. I need to start learning.
|
In a nutshell, cooler air will fall to the floor and into cold air returns where it will eventually find it's way to your furnace to be heated up. It's quite intuitive IMO. Same reason you ideally would want to have AC vents in the ceiling.
|
|
|
08-24-2020, 07:30 PM
|
#2935
|
Pent-up
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Plutanamo Bay.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by topfiverecords
I'd go with a first step of talking to a company that does fabricated sunrooms now and see what they think.
Your sunroom has solid ceiling panels? Thought a sunroom was glass, glass, and more glass.
|
The walls are mostly windows but the roof just has a skylight. Assuming it was the cheaper version. I have the name of the company on the permit so I’ll reach out, this seems beyond a diy job.
|
|
|
08-24-2020, 09:07 PM
|
#2936
|
#1 Goaltender
|
Thought this was in here somewhere but can't find it so have to ask. Where is the best place to buy a Bosch dishwasher in Calgary? Looking at 24" 300 series unless someone can convince me to go higher. Or if there's a better option in that 1000-1200 price range. Thanks.
|
|
|
08-24-2020, 11:58 PM
|
#2937
|
Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Hyperbole Chamber
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by chedder
Thought this was in here somewhere but can't find it so have to ask. Where is the best place to buy a Bosch dishwasher in Calgary? Looking at 24" 300 series unless someone can convince me to go higher. Or if there's a better option in that 1000-1200 price range. Thanks.
|
Perhaps in the dishwasher thread. Lowes carries Bosch. I got the 800 series through there. If you want a reliable supplier for service/support you could check with Jerome's Appliance Gallery. Ask for Marcus. I ordered a hoodfan through them and Marcus was amazing.
|
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to topfiverecords For This Useful Post:
|
|
08-25-2020, 07:17 AM
|
#2938
|
Franchise Player
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by topfiverecords
Perhaps in the dishwasher thread. Lowes carries Bosch. I got the 800 series through there. If you want a reliable supplier for service/support you could check with Jerome's Appliance Gallery. Ask for Marcus. I ordered a hoodfan through them and Marcus was amazing.
|
Big fan of Marcus, eh?
|
|
|
08-25-2020, 09:45 AM
|
#2939
|
Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Hyperbole Chamber
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzz
Big fan of Marcus, eh?
|
Know him?
After decades dealing with essentially sub level effort from the majority of suppliers across the entire construction product industry, yes he stands out.
|
|
|
08-25-2020, 09:49 AM
|
#2940
|
Franchise Player
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoinAllTheWay
In a nutshell, cooler air will fall to the floor and into cold air returns where it will eventually find it's way to your furnace to be heated up. It's quite intuitive IMO. Same reason you ideally would want to have AC vents in the ceiling.
|
Should I bring both the cold returns and warm vents down to floor level?
|
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:57 PM.
|
|