Finished painting today, made a bit of a mess between ceiling and walls, so had to brush it after, but for the most part the sprayer was a huge time saver. Forgot to get a picture, will post one tomorrow.
Some professional spray guys also have to have a person follow behind them and roll to get a better finish so I would say don’t be hard on yourself.
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I could see that helping. The sprayer sometime makes the wall a bit hairy, and rolling seemed to help. But hey, it's a garage, not a millionare's bathroom. So I'm ok with a few imperfections.
Exactly that, yes. Ceilings are currently at 8 feet.
I didn't watch the video, but scrolled through it quickly without sound; this doesn't seem like a great strategy.
You're removing the bottom member of the truss that is in tension, so when load is applied, instead of being transferred to that bottom member, it is transferring it to the stud walls, which are designed for compression, but aren't really braced for lateral movement. Basically, the roof is going to push the walls outward, and the only thing holding them together is the end walls.
It's probably technically doable because the roof will never have significant load applied, but it won't be particularly stable.
*edit: I'm not a structural engineer, but I've taken several graduate level structural design courses, so I guess take my advice with a grain of salt*
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Originally Posted by snipetype
k im just not going to respond to your #### anymore because i have better things to do like #### my model girlfriend rather then try to convince people like you of commonly held hockey knowledge.
Last edited by Mass_nerder; 05-23-2019 at 01:10 PM.
I was kinda thinking the same thing, but figured the video guy sounded like he know what he was doing. Maybe not a great plan for Calgary winters though...
It's a big project when you are doing it yourself. I was inspired by Fuzz's thread so I started one in the fall of 2017, and I wouldn't call it done. Still need to figure out much of the organization/shelving etc.
I didn't watch the video, but scrolled through it quickly without sound; this doesn't seem like a great strategy.
You're removing the bottom member of the truss that is in tension, so when load is applied, instead of being transferred to that bottom member, it is transferring it to the stud walls, which are designed for compression, but aren't really braced for lateral movement. Basically, the roof is going to push the walls outward, and the only thing holding them together is the end walls.
It's probably technically doable because the roof will never have significant load applied, but it won't be particularly stable.
*edit: I'm not a structural engineer, but I've taken several graduate level structural design courses, so I guess take my advice with a grain of salt*
Only semi related. Decided to build our deck myself this year so with the savings over the contractor I could just buy my own tools and better materials. I need to buy a mitre saw is it worth the price difference to get a 12" over a 10"
^ How much is the price difference? If you are going to be using 2x6s for the deck the 10" will not cut all the way through (unless it slides as well) which can be annoying. I have an old 10" saw and I would say get a 12".
