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Old 07-07-2019, 08:19 PM   #2281
monkeyman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maritime Q-Scout View Post
So one of the concrete slabs that are part of the window ledge of one of the windows on the back of our house fell off.

Window still looks similar to this:



How would I repair this?

Simply get some quick dry concrete and put it back?
I recently watched this on ask this old house. it might help.
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Old 07-08-2019, 06:47 PM   #2282
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I recently watched this on ask this old house. it might help.
I'll watch this when I get a chance. I did patch it yesterday, and it seems fine.

So far anyway, haha.
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Old 07-08-2019, 10:28 PM   #2283
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One of my rentals the valence clips on many of the blinds are starting to be brittle and snap. They're over 10 years old, the wood blinds and valences themselves are still fine.

I'm not even sure I'll be able to find who did them for us from way back then. Can anyone recommend someone who does window coverings that could go in with new clips and get them all fixed up, preferably someone who would charge a reasonable price?
I recommend Lucian with Arctic Blinds. He's reasonably priced and able to get the parts needed way quicker than I would have been myself.
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Old 07-08-2019, 11:32 PM   #2284
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Suggestions on flooring solution for small 70+ year old garage with compacted gravel/dirt floor? It’s one step up from a shed, but has a properly slopped driveway with drainage in front of door. Can’t do wood as I need non-combustible, and it would be entirely my expense/labour as the owner ‘has plans to rebuild’ in the future. I just need to make it a sturdy, dust free floor.

If I’m willing to loose a few inches of height, can I dig out a couple inches, add a pressure treated border to the footer and then get some gravel/concrete work? Footer is on grade, near as I can tell.
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Old 07-09-2019, 07:38 AM   #2285
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Suggestions on flooring solution for small 70+ year old garage with compacted gravel/dirt floor? It’s one step up from a shed, but has a properly slopped driveway with drainage in front of door. Can’t do wood as I need non-combustible, and it would be entirely my expense/labour as the owner ‘has plans to rebuild’ in the future. I just need to make it a sturdy, dust free floor.

If I’m willing to loose a few inches of height, can I dig out a couple inches, add a pressure treated border to the footer and then get some gravel/concrete work? Footer is on grade, near as I can tell.
I have a friend who used reclaim (asphault) on his driveway, he rented a compacter and it packed down surprisingly hard and he basically has a paved parking area. If I'm envisioning your project correrctly i think this would be a good option for you. Reclaim is close to the price of gravel and a compacter is a weekend rental.
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Old 07-17-2019, 01:23 PM   #2286
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FYI - screw piles will pass code inspection ONLY if they are installed by certified installers. You aren't allowed to do it yourself.

Looks like it's back to concrete and sonotubes. Damn.
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Old 07-17-2019, 01:44 PM   #2287
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FYI - screw piles will pass code inspection ONLY if they are installed by certified installers. You aren't allowed to do it yourself.

Looks like it's back to concrete and sonotubes. Damn.
Is your deck going to be more than 60cm above grade? If not, you can use the screw piles as there is no code for what the city defines as a patio
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Old 07-17-2019, 01:57 PM   #2288
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Yeah the deck meets the house at about 2'6" (about 75cm) but by the end of the deck it would be about 3.5 feet because of the slight slope of the backyard.
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Old 07-17-2019, 02:39 PM   #2289
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Is your deck going to be more than 60cm above grade? If not, you can use the screw piles as there is no code for what the city defines as a patio
On this topic does the City define the deck height at it's lowest or highest point above ground? Mine is ground level on one end but about 24" above grade at the other end due to yard slope. That's side to side, not front to back if it matters.
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Old 07-17-2019, 03:07 PM   #2290
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On this topic does the City define the deck height at it's lowest or highest point above ground? Mine is ground level on one end but about 24" above grade at the other end due to yard slope. That's side to side, not front to back if it matters.
Highest point above grade. I've seen folks regrade to get it below 60cm and then do their own thing not having to worry about inspection
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Old 07-17-2019, 04:08 PM   #2291
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Highest point above grade. I've seen folks regrade to get it below 60cm and then do their own thing not having to worry about inspection
Thanks. Might have to do that on mine at some point. I think was right at the cutoff when I built it but the ground has probably settled since then.
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Old 07-22-2019, 05:09 PM   #2292
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Does anybody know how much a new basement bathroom should cost? The plumbing for the toilet and shower are roughed in, and the framing and electrical are done. I got a quote for just under $450/sqft for a 3 peice bathroom. This seems pretty high to me, but don't have much to go on for reference.

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Old 07-22-2019, 05:32 PM   #2293
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FYI - screw piles will pass code inspection ONLY if they are installed by certified installers. You aren't allowed to do it yourself.

Looks like it's back to concrete and sonotubes. Damn.
Are you referring to the helical screw piles installed with a bobcat? Or the retail available ones from Home Depot?

If it the former, that makes sense. If its the latter, im confused. I didn't think there was a Pylex certified installer.

I used the commercial pylex 66 for my Pergola. I can see how they are useful, but if I were to do it again, id just dig a hole with an auger.
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:27 PM   #2294
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Does anybody know how much a new basement bathroom should cost? The plumbing for the toilet and shower are roughed in, and the framing and electrical are done. I got a quote for just under $450/sqft for a 3 peice bathroom. This seems pretty high to me, but don't have much to go on for reference.

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$/sqft don't really apply as you could build a 1000ft2 bathroom with just a toilet and a sink. Tile vs vinyl, granite vs laminate, steam shower vs no shower vs bathtub

I would say $10k-$50k depending on what's going in, with an average three piece being $15-20k all said and done (contacted out, not DIY)
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:42 PM   #2295
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I got quotes to gut and rebuild my three piece bathroom to the cheapest standard and the lowest quote was over 10k. I did it myself for 2500 including a new wet saw.
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:09 PM   #2296
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Should have mentioned, this is a 5x8' or 40sqft bathroom. However, if the $450per sqft is the going rate I'd be better off to take time off without pay and still come out ahead.

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Old 07-22-2019, 08:22 PM   #2297
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When we did my basement bathroom I stumbled into the best deal with a contractor. He'd come in for a few hours every day and do the tough stuff, then leave me a note with my homework to be done before he came back the next day or in a couple of days. I ended up doing a ton of the work, but it was all in bite-sized chunks spoon fed to me basically one day at a time so it was never overwhelming, I was never stuck being unsure what to do next, and I saved a ton of money. Dude was old and this was a while ago so doubt he's still doing it. If you can find a deal like that, you'll get the best of both worlds.
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Old 07-22-2019, 09:36 PM   #2298
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I did the gutting of my guest bath myself, and just had the contractor come and do the tile, bathtub, and floors. Sink, toilets, lights, new bathroom fan, etc. were all pretty manageable by myself. IKEA sometimes get a bad rap, but their floating sinks are pretty nice.
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Old 07-22-2019, 09:39 PM   #2299
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Anybody have some recommendations for fence builders?
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Old 07-22-2019, 10:10 PM   #2300
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Bathrooms aren't cheap when it comes to contractors but you have to consider a few things. There are a lot of materials involved for such a small space, flooring, fixtures, drywall, tile etc.

There are usually multiple subs involved. You need carpenters, drywall, plumber, electrical, flooring/tile.

10k is not a terrible quote for a standard 4pc bathroom,but if you are willing to put in sweat equity its an area you can save a decent amount of money.

Contractors have a lot of expenses you don't that factor in to the equation.
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