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Old 02-16-2019, 01:05 PM   #2041
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I think it just was a defective unit actually
Did you charge it before installing?
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Old 02-16-2019, 02:14 PM   #2042
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Did you charge it before installing?
No. The instructions don't specify that as a step
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Old 02-16-2019, 11:27 PM   #2043
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Did you charge it before installing?
I don't think it's necessary, but the unit should have powered up if a common wire was used to provide it power.
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Old 02-16-2019, 11:41 PM   #2044
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Interesting. My old Honeywell thermostat needs batteries. What powers the Nests?
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Old 02-17-2019, 08:58 AM   #2045
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I have an ecobee and it uses a c wire for power, I assume most smart thermostats would
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Old 02-17-2019, 10:12 AM   #2046
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The Nest claims it doesn't need a C wire, but a C wire is by far the most reliable
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Old 02-17-2019, 09:17 PM   #2047
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I think the next thing I'm going to do is change my exterior lights on my garage. Right now I have the old style Lantern type which just lights up the whole area. I really like the new style that look like pot lights but accentuate the house itself. I think I'm going to try and find a fixture that redirects the light on to the home itself and on the ground as I think those look really sharp

Spoiler!
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Old 02-18-2019, 10:28 AM   #2048
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Quote:
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Interesting. My old Honeywell thermostat needs batteries. What powers the Nests?
Nests and Ecobee can function without a c-wire, but it's not reliable. Nest has an internal battery which can charge by power stealing, but if that battery gets too low, then the thermostat can lock up leaving you with no way to control your heat in the middle of winter. If you use a Nest on power steal, I'd definitely keep a cheap basic thermostat in a drawer in case the Nest locks up. Ecobee refuses to be installed without a c-wire, but you can get a plug in power kit which powers the thermostat so that you can install it if there's not enough wires to use as a c-wire.

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I have an ecobee and it uses a c wire for power, I assume most smart thermostats would
I think quite a few Honeywell have batteries (whether coin or AAA). They also have c-wire options, but the unit can continue functioning on the removable battery is nice in case the battery gets low and needs replacement (unlike the Nest/Ecobee which is built in).
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Old 02-19-2019, 02:53 PM   #2049
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I just installed the Honeywell T5 thermostat. I really like it. Had to hook up the C wire which my old one didn't have but wasn't that hard.


I think I will get another one for the garage. Its fun telling Siri to run up the heat.
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Old 02-19-2019, 03:01 PM   #2050
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The only issue I found with smart thermostats is they don't go low enough. Though I just checked that one and it goes down to 4.5, which is much better than I had been seeing. Still, it would be nice if you could set it to 0.
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Old 02-19-2019, 04:11 PM   #2051
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The only issue I found with smart thermostats is they don't go low enough. Though I just checked that one and it goes down to 4.5, which is much better than I had been seeing. Still, it would be nice if you could set it to 0.

I plan on having water lines in my garage so won't ever want it that low. Although holding at 5 degrees overnight would be kind of neat. then warm to 15 when time to take cars outside in the morning.
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Old 02-19-2019, 04:17 PM   #2052
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Guys!

I have a moisture problem in my attic! My home is only 10 years old and I’ve never had the problem before. No mold whatsoever up there, so this definitely didn’t happen in prior years, but I took a look today and large portions of the sheathing are sweating and dripping onto the insulation.

I ran a couple humidifiers this winter during the night because I have two young kids. I don’t have excess moisture on my windows.

I suspect there’s a bit of an ice dam somewhere, coupled with the humidifiers I been running. It’s a two story so I can’t go up and check for ice.

I doubt it’s faulty installation of bathroom fans because I’ve never had the problem until today.

Any way to quickly remove moisture?




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Old 02-19-2019, 04:26 PM   #2053
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I'm having a similar issue.. dripping moisture from light fixtures, smoke detectors, etc.. not huge amounts but enough to stain the ceiling in some cases. I've been calling around to find a roofer that can come take a look, I thought maybe it's ice or snow that's gotten into the attic from the high winds recently or maybe a faulty moisture barrier. I didn't think it was an ice dam because in my case it seems to be even across the house.
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Old 02-19-2019, 04:41 PM   #2054
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Quick update:

My wife has noticed our above range microwave was cold and even had ice buildup inside of it over the past week or so. I verified that it vents directly outside so I am blasting that fan on max. It now doesn’t feel cold at all to the touch.

I was able to take a look at my roof from my neighbors yard and it appears that the vent fans from one of the 2nd story bathrooms had ice blocking it. I will NOT run that fan. That pitch of the roof faces north so never gets sunlight.

I’m running all other fans in the house, including the furnace fan all day and night now unless someone wiser advises not to. I imagine the vent fan with the ice blocking it is the culprit here.
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Old 02-19-2019, 04:57 PM   #2055
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I plan on having water lines in my garage so won't ever want it that low. Although holding at 5 degrees overnight would be kind of neat. then warm to 15 when time to take cars outside in the morning.
That makes sense for you. Mine is detached, and we don't drive often so the heat is more for when I'd like to work. So leaving it as low as possible, and being able to open an app and turn it on before i go out would be ideal. I can understand now that you mention water lines why they don't make them go really low, could be a liability issue for them. Still, I'd love to have the option! Maybe +5 won't be bad, I'll see how my manual works for the first winter if I set it there. I don't really need it running often.
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Old 02-19-2019, 04:59 PM   #2056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CroFlames View Post
Quick update:

My wife has noticed our above range microwave was cold and even had ice buildup inside of it over the past week or so. I verified that it vents directly outside so I am blasting that fan on max. It now doesn’t feel cold at all to the touch.

I was able to take a look at my roof from my neighbors yard and it appears that the vent fans from one of the 2nd story bathrooms had ice blocking it. I will NOT run that fan. That pitch of the roof faces north so never gets sunlight.

I’m running all other fans in the house, including the furnace fan all day and night now unless someone wiser advises not to. I imagine the vent fan with the ice blocking it is the culprit here.
Yeah one of the roofing guys I talked to said that having some of the vents blocked up with snow is one way he's seen it happen.
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Old 02-19-2019, 05:10 PM   #2057
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What humidity percentage are you guys running if you don't have excess moisture on the windows? I'm at 35% and I always get a ton of moisture trapped between my cellular blinds and windows. I'm talking puddles and ice. I have to have the blinds open all day and run the HVAC fan for a few hours to dissipate even the most basic of moisture. My town home is only around 3 years old.

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The only issue I found with smart thermostats is they don't go low enough. Though I just checked that one and it goes down to 4.5, which is much better than I had been seeing. Still, it would be nice if you could set it to 0.
I believe the feature you're looking for in a Nest is called the safety temperature (different than eco temperatures). I confirmed on my Nest app (2nd gen thermostat) that the lowest temp I can set is 2 celcius before the safety temperature is considered disabled.

https://nest.com/ca/support/article/...#on-thermostat


EDIT: Sorry, that's not entirely true.

If the nest is active, the lowest it can be set is 9 Celsius
If the nest is on Eco mode, the lowest actual temperature it can be set is 4 Celsius (but minimum temperature can be set to off)
I am then assuming if the Eco mode is on off, the safety temperature can kick in at 2 Celsius.

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Old 02-19-2019, 05:12 PM   #2058
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Quote:
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That makes sense for you. Mine is detached, and we don't drive often so the heat is more for when I'd like to work. So leaving it as low as possible, and being able to open an app and turn it on before i go out would be ideal. I can understand now that you mention water lines why they don't make them go really low, could be a liability issue for them. Still, I'd love to have the option! Maybe +5 won't be bad, I'll see how my manual works for the first winter if I set it there. I don't really need it running often.
Mine is set at 7 now, but it was 5 before. I don’t need the garage to be 20 constantly, as it seems like a waste of energy for the most part.
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Old 02-19-2019, 05:20 PM   #2059
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I have an older battery powered, programmable Honeywell in my garage. It goes down to 4.5 degrees at the lowest. I tend to keep my garage around 6 to 7 ish degrees.

Depending on your method of heating, I've heard the argument that you should keep it at least 10 degrees. Reasoning is that the furnace doesn't run long enough to evaporate the moisture from the heat exchangers and they can prematurely rust. I have no idea the validity of that, but I keep it in mind.
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Old 03-01-2019, 04:39 PM   #2060
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I'm having a weird thermostat problem and I think I just need to replace it, but figured I'd ask here first.

Normally, when the temperature in the house got too low or too high you were hear a "click" from the thermostat and then the heat would either turn on or off a few seconds later. It was basically the thermostat saying "it's time to heat" or "that's enough heat".

Lately, it's been "clicking" rapidly when its time to have the heat come on. You can hear the clicking for 5-10 seconds sometimes and it'll click maybe 3-4 times per second, so its really rapid fire. Once it settles down the furnace comes on like normal and the house is still being heated fine, but the clicking is super annoying and I feel like its telling me to buy a new one.

Any ideas? Or just buy a new one. I have no idea how old it is - it was there when we bought the house about 5 years ago.
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