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Old 06-23-2015, 12:58 AM   #21
Jayems
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Yeah 1/2 is a bitch. 3/4" all the way if you've got a residential home. 1" was pretty rare for a city home, usually acreages, condos etc. Installed these bad boys for about 4 summers during school. Always dealt with Regency for parts etc. Will install a system in my home eventually. Pretty easy with pex to install inside to run out and covert to the poly with an outdoor stand. It's really just the labour to install it...

We always used Irritrol and 4" pops, and just changed the heads/nozzles based on the yard. Either variables, sidestrips or MPs. Hated gardens and micro lines though. But there's worse ways to spend summers, that's for sure.
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Old 06-23-2015, 07:33 AM   #22
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The previous owner of my place poured a lot of concrete patios and walkways between my water faucet and lawn.... I'm guessing that this rules out any form of UG sprinklers? Or is tunneling a possibility? (megabucks if it is I'm thinking)
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Old 06-23-2015, 03:22 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I-Hate-Hulse View Post
The previous owner of my place poured a lot of concrete patios and walkways between my water faucet and lawn.... I'm guessing that this rules out any form of UG sprinklers? Or is tunneling a possibility? (megabucks if it is I'm thinking)
My dad managed to get a water line underneath the city sidewalk at his old house - without disturbing the sidewalk in any way, so that he could water the space between the sidewalk and the curb.
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Old 06-23-2015, 03:45 PM   #24
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You could give this a try:
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/DI...way-s/6560.htm
unless the concrete goes up against the house.
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Old 06-29-2015, 03:40 PM   #25
Aleks
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I installed my own system when I built my house. Quite simple, no solenoids or multiple zones. I was able to get the coverage I needed for my size yard with singles. I've changed things here and there, used to use gear rotators in the back yard but changed to Hunter MP rotators which I really like and work well. I used 3/4 for the back yard, and 1/2 for the front, if I were to do it again I would use 3/4 in the front as well, but that was my rookie mistake. I'd never installed a system before and its well worth it. My lawn is the best one on the block by far. I have them running on rain bird single zone timers, digital programmable to do whatever I want for programs. Its been hassle free.

As for in an established yard, thats a bit more work, I was able to trench into my topsoil before sod which was good. You can rent a trencher or just spend an afternoon turning dirt, its not like you're digging a big hole, just getting a 6-10"deep trench going wherever you lay lines. You can do it with minimal yard damage if you are carful with your turning.

As for under driveways and stuff, fortunately you're not the first to encounter this so they have tools to use for that. They make a jet tunneling attachment for the line you are putting underneath. You attach the nozzle to the front end, you attach the hose connector to the other end of the line, and you turn on the water while feeding the line underneath the concrete, the jet stream of water creating a cavity for the line to pass through. Unfortunately in Calgary we have alot of large rocks, and those don't help, so I can't speak to the effectiveness of this thing....but they do sell it for that purpose alone.

Any other questions just PM me, I can give advice about the planning and all that as well
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Old 06-30-2015, 11:20 AM   #26
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This has got to be the easiest home DIY out there and can be done in a weekend. The planning is the biggest part of the job.

I did my house in RockyRidge, and our new house. Rocky was less than a $1000 in parts (PVC 4 Zones). Our new house was quoted at $5000+ and I did it for about 1/2 that. (10 Zones Blue-Lock)

Regency is the place to go. For parts and planning. You will need a ton of joints and parts, get a bunch extra. Only slight on Regency is their hours aren't the best on weekends and evenings.

-Rent a trencher from Home Depot or Rogers
-Pex a 1" or 3/4" water supply line with a shut off valve inside , a faucet , then a double check valve (flowback preventor) to the outside >
-Run 6 strand low voltage wire to the sprinkler box and to the timer location inside.
-Install a faucet for blowouts on the outside>
-3/4" to sprinkler box and manifold >
-attach valves to manifold I used Irritrol Valves. >
-3/4" Blue-Lock line to the sprinkler heads from the valves (zone).
-1/2" Blue-Lock line risers to each head.(Rotors are awesome if you have the area meant for)
-Flower beds we used mirco sprayers off a zone. (Can water daily if on its own zone and you can focus the water at each flower/shrub)
-Wire the the valves up and wire in the timer.
-Install a rain/freeze sensor RainBird has a great wireless one that is easy to setup.
-Test Adjust the heads as required, you might have to change some of the heads onces its up and running.
-Program the timer.

Wake up the next day and yard is watered before you start your day!!
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