Surferguy goes to Newfoundland

[Fuzz]

I may make it to NWT one day, though we did the far north bit with Inuvik I'd like to see Yellowkinfe. But getting to Nunavut is going to be a tricky one! I've hit every province though haven't been through Manitoba since I was 4. I'm still counting that one! It really is beautiful up north though. And no people! The best part.

[surferguy]

Entry #4


Grounded in Gander - My first real taste of a strong Nor'easter. A deluge of rain not to be taken lightly. The other night my son and I were rocked asleep as the winds pummeled our flanks and sang its songs through the tiniest of cracks.

The rain, relentless in its resolve, continuously pelted the exterior shell of the trailer transforming our sleeping quarters into a sound cave reminiscent of a relaxation CD.

There we were cozied up together in the top bunk of the RV and even though the boy did not sleep well, I knew then, as it was occurring, it will be an experience I won't forget anytime soon.

We woke up to snow. Not a huge amount but enough to keep us off the roads for the day.

It gave us the opportunity to explore a bit of Gander. I'm not going to try to wax poetic on the sites of this town as they are not extraordinary but I can say the hospitality of the local folk was noticeable.

Always willing to chat. Just plain friendly. I got the sense through my limited interaction that the residents here do not seem to be stressed out. I'm sure it exists but it's not outward showing like you find in other places around the planet.

I can definitely understand the lasting relationship built between the town and those forced to land in Gander during 9/11. The passengers of the planes were thrust into a situation only to be met with open arms and a smile. The stories are many of how the locals stepped to the plate and delivered what was needed to help those with no choice.

I think the world could use a bit more of that.

Because the airport seems to be a major focus here, today's picture is of the departure lounge of The Gander International Airport. It is all original 50s mid century design. One of the best persevered in the world, if not THE best. 99% Invisible did an exceptional podcast on this very subject.

Find it, take a listen.

[ASP#26525]

Very cool! Glad you liked it here! I moved to St. John's almost 4 years ago and I love it. The people, crazy weather, landscape, isolation, icebergs, whales, puffins, distance from my family that live north of Vancouver.....

Bonavista is indeed awesome, and I'm jealous that you got to Fogo! Gorgeous pictures, and I'm going to check out that podcast for sure. Thanks for sharing!

[octothorp]

Man, we had such similar itineraries; we're in the last couple days of our trip here, but Bonavista and Fogo Island were our favorite spots, too, although we skipped the inn.

One favorite thing about Newfoundland: the restaurants. After you get off the T.C.H., it's easier to find some small diner serving amazing chowder and pea soup and fish cakes and pan-fried cod, than it is to find a Tim Hortons. Plus moose burgers if you're in the interior. And maybe some partridgeberry or bakeapple tarts. It's hearty, delicious food that's probably been made the same way for a hundred years.

[surferguy]

Originally Posted by octothorp

Man, we had such similar itineraries; we're in the last couple days of our trip here, but Bonavista and Fogo Island were our favorite spots, too, although we skipped the inn.

One favorite thing about Newfoundland: the restaurants. After you get off the T.C.H., it's easier to find some small diner serving amazing chowder and pea soup and fish cakes and pan-fried cod, than it is to find a Tim Hortons. Plus moose burgers if you're in the interior. And maybe some partridgeberry or bakeapple tarts. It's hearty, delicious food that's probably been made the same way for a hundred years.

I recall seeing a seal sandwich on the daily specials menu in Fogo. I wasn't adventurous enough to try it however.

[Nufy]

Fries, Dressing and Gravy...

Don't you dare leave the province without having some...

[Locke]

Originally Posted by ASP#26525

Very cool! Glad you liked it here! I moved to St. John's almost 4 years ago and I love it. The people, crazy weather, landscape, isolation, icebergs, whales, puffins, distance from my family that live north of Vancouver.....

Bonavista is indeed awesome, and I'm jealous that you got to Fogo! Gorgeous pictures, and I'm going to check out that podcast for sure. Thanks for sharing!

I heard Puffins are fatty but delicious...

[surferguy]

Originally Posted by Locke

I heard Puffins are fatty but delicious...

I can't speak to the taste but I did like watching them trying to fly. They suck. They are like a cross between a duck and a penguin. Many times I would see them take off of the cliff side only hit the water and bounce a few times before actually taking flight. Evolution should sort out their flying skills in due time.

[surferguy]

Entry #5

Shrouded in mystic we toured the shores of the southeast coast of the Avalon Peninsula. As we headed south the skies descended and unleashed a torrent of rain.

Spilling over their banks the brooks were flush with the rush of fresh water, tinted brown from the tannins of the forest roots they had just permeated.

As the road continued the rain tailed off and the fog moved in. Thick as cold molasses transforming everything it enveloped into grey scale. The distant tree lines on cascading ridges becoming just a lighter silhouette than the one before.

It was here that I first saw the raw power of the North Atlantic Ocean as it pounded upon the cobbled beaches of St. Vincent. Under the mysterious mask of the dense fog a tremendous shore break of angry blue frothy surf continuously bashed against the stones. The unmistakable sound of the clacking rocks as the waves receded put a smile on my face as I found myself inside this incredible ambiance.

There is nothing sweeter than discovering a brand new beach, especially when you have no idea what it looks like on a clear day. Nothing but imagination to fill in the spaces beyond.

Gord Downie once sang about how he always wanted to go to a place called Mistaken Point, Newfoundland. As it turns this all happened just around the corner. I guess today I got to go.

[surferguy]

Entry #6

I'm back home now with nothing but reflection left of my trip to Newfoundland.

What an experience. An island unlike any other. Everyday revealed a tiny little layer waiting to be peeled back further, a taste yearning to be explored further and an understanding of the impossibility to go further.

Stunted forests, barren plains and fog coated coves dotted the coast lines. The towering cliffs that stood tall above perfectly smooth pebbled beaches. The treeless green meadows that gleamed, interrupted only by the colorful box shaped homes. The enormous icebergs, sculpted by the raging seas. The mood inducing low drone of a distant fog horn defining lands end. All of this and more left me in awe. From the outpost island groups to the vibrant cities, this place was majestic.

I will take many memories from this adventure. The opportunities to do this type of trip dwindles with every passing year. Age will catch up to us all. Having the ability to build these moments with my parents is truly special. Take the opportunities while you can.

As I ponder what we just experienced I'm warmed by the very real possibility that my sons first memory will come from this trip. I am extremely lucky to be able to do this and that privilege is not lost on me.

To Newfoundland: I thank you for impressing me. Your quirkiness, your grace and your resolve are unmatched. We stand under a single leaf that unites us but you are truly your own nation.

Embrace that and celebrate it.

You are beautiful.