The Home Improvement Thread

[surferguy]

Originally Posted by Maritime Q-Scout

Without running back outside at the moment, I can tell you that the plugs on each side of the house have one white and one black wire. No wires for the load.

It would reason the front would be the same.

PaperBagger I'll buy you pizza and beer if you come check it out for me. I mean, you'll need to pay for your own flights, plus hotel, and then quarantine for two weeks... but I'll guarantee the best burnt Delicio pineapple pizza and warm O'Doull's you've ever had!

Can’t beat that east coast hospitality!

[PaperBagger'14]

Originally Posted by Maritime Q-Scout

Without running back outside at the moment, I can tell you that the plugs on each side of the house have one white and one black wire. No wires for the load.

It would reason the front would be the same.

PaperBagger I'll buy you pizza and beer if you come check it out for me. I mean, you'll need to pay for your own flights, plus hotel, and then quarantine for two weeks... but I'll guarantee the best burnt Delicio pineapple pizza and warm O'Doull's you've ever had!

I was going to make my way over until you mentioned pineapple, thats where I bow out!

[Sr. Mints]

There are two bay windows at the opposite ends of this house, both are what I guess you call cantilevers, and they are always freezing compared to the rest of the house.

One room is part of the kitchen, and even with no doors to trap the cold its significantly colder in the nook where the bay window is. The office at the other end of the house has a door which is usually shut, when I opened the door this morning it was like walking into a fridge.

Is there anything I can do to improve this situation? Like have someone go underneath the bay windows from outside and inject insulation in there? Could it be the attic has zero insulation where the bay extrudes from the house?

New windows in entire house, insulation (styrofoam beads) blown into attic, heat ducts cleaned regularly

[Wormius]

Let me know if you find somebody willing to do a small job. We have a small closet on a cantilever and it gets cold enough for humidity to condense and freeze in really cold weather.

[topfiverecords]

Originally Posted by Sr. Mints

There are two bay windows at the opposite ends of this house, both are what I guess you call cantilevers, and they are always freezing compared to the rest of the house.

One room is part of the kitchen, and even with no doors to trap the cold its significantly colder in the nook where the bay window is. The office at the other end of the house has a door which is usually shut, when I opened the door this morning it was like walking into a fridge.

Is there anything I can do to improve this situation? Like have someone go underneath the bay windows from outside and inject insulation in there? Could it be the attic has zero insulation where the bay extrudes from the house?

New windows in entire house, insulation (styrofoam beads) blown into attic, heat ducts cleaned regularly

I’m assuming the bay is at floor level and full height? Depending on the era of the house you and any other information I’d guess you only have an insulation batt between the floor joists. At minimum you’d want to replace the batt with a higher R value, and add a few inches of rigid insulation under it.

[Sr. Mints]

Originally Posted by topfiverecords

I’m assuming the bay is at floor level and full height? Depending on the era of the house you and any other information I’d guess you only have an insulation batt between the floor joists. At minimum you’d want to replace the batt with a higher R value, and add a few inches of rigid insulation under it.

Correct, floor to selling bays. House was build in 89. This seems like something that should have been done before site-finished hardwood was installed a decade ago.

[speede5]

open up the overhang from underneath and use this kit from HD the cost will most likely be a wash with getting an actual spray foam guy in to do that small job.

And get some acetone to keep handy, it cleans this stuff up like a charm until it cures.

[topfiverecords]

That's good in theory, a few inches will give you R-18 but doesn't really solve it.

Breaking the thermal bridging is important and for good reason is why code now requires rigid under cantilevers. 2-3 inches of R5/inch rigid board under an R-31/R40 batt is a better choice.

On new construction the best method is a warm airspace between the insulation and the subfloor.

[RichieRich]

Our 20-yr old Lennox Merit-series furnace had a tune-up this past spring... because the induced motor blower was developing a bit of a whine (and I hadn't had a tuneup done in a few years). Tech recommended replacing the motor and pressure switch... got a quote from Arpi's which was higher than expected (~$700 installed) and quite a bit given I'm not working at present. The motor is whining again, not very loudly, and certainly does not sound catastrophic at this point, however it might be time for a replacement.



Questions:
Does this seem like a reasonable price for these items? I'm thinking it's a tad high.
Do I need to use OEM Lennox parts?
Is this a DIY thing?
What else should I be asking?


thanks CP brain.

[surferguy]

Call Everlast. You can find his link in the CP Power Ring

[RichieRich]

Originally Posted by surferguy

Call Everlast. You can find his link in the CP Power Ring

Thanks... however I don't even know what this power ring is? Is it like summoning Batman or Hercules? seriously...


EDIT: Ok Nix that... I used my noodle and figured out how to look up Everlast. Will send PM. thx. Am still curious what the CP braintrust thinks...

[DoubleF]

Ceiling mounting projectors and/or TV mounts. Any specific considerations I need to make or optional things I should consider?

I assumed it would be kinda like wall mounting, but most guides straight up glaze over installation and mounting the TV. Shouldn't I also be kinda considering wall anchors or looking for studs when doing ceiling mounts?

I get that throw distance might be a bigger consideration than joists, but it kinda bugs me that like a dozen guides for ceiling mounts literally just show a guy shooting screws through the mount and straight into the ceiling as if it was plywood or something on the other side (isn't it drywall type stuff?). I did some research on ceiling mounting a hammock and thought some of the same principles would be mentioned in mounting TV and projectors... none at all, and that kinda bugs me.
====


Also, I have a question about water line upgrading. In my older home, if someone is showering and the tap or toilet is used, the classic temperature differentials occur. I heard it's possible to do plumbing work to mitigate/reduce the temperature differentials by putting in more water lines, but I don't know what it's called or how the work actually works. Does anyone know? And does anyone have a ball park idea how much it might cost to do?

I've also wondered if there's a solution that goes hand in hand or with the hot water tank instead. Because the tank is slightly older (10 years ish?) and I assume partially full of sediment, I have to set the temp slightly higher or I constantly run out of hot water. It means the water temp is set to a temp that is borderline capable of scalding, so I don't want my little ones to experience that when I shower them and someone else in the house uses water.

[topfiverecords]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

Ceiling mounting projectors and/or TV mounts. Any specific considerations I need to make or optional things I should consider?

I assumed it would be kinda like wall mounting, but most guides straight up glaze over installation and mounting the TV. Shouldn't I also be kinda considering wall anchors or looking for studs when doing ceiling mounts?

I get that throw distance might be a bigger consideration than joists, but it kinda bugs me that like a dozen guides for ceiling mounts literally just show a guy shooting screws through the mount and straight into the ceiling as if it was plywood or something on the other side (isn't it drywall type stuff?). I did some research on ceiling mounting a hammock and thought some of the same principles would be mentioned in mounting TV and projectors... none at all, and that kinda bugs me.
====


Also, I have a question about water line upgrading. In my older home, if someone is showering and the tap or toilet is used, the classic temperature differentials occur. I heard it's possible to do plumbing work to mitigate/reduce the temperature differentials by putting in more water lines, but I don't know what it's called or how the work actually works. Does anyone know? And does anyone have a ball park idea how much it might cost to do?

I've also wondered if there's a solution that goes hand in hand or with the hot water tank instead. Because the tank is slightly older (10 years ish?) and I assume partially full of sediment, I have to set the temp slightly higher or I constantly run out of hot water. It means the water temp is set to a temp that is borderline capable of scalding, so I don't want my little ones to experience that when I shower them and someone else in the house uses water.

Drywall anchors have a weight rating and I don't imagine projectors are very heavy these days are they?

Most tv wall mounting brackets have variable screw locations so you can lag screw into where the studs are if it's just drywall on 2x framing material.

Thermostatic shower valves help regulate temperature when there's a loss of hot or cold by mechanically adjusting the mix to maintain a constant temperature. This however is only a half solution as if there's no hot coming at all then it's not going to make up the difference.

Other option is inline instant hot water heaters and boosters. If you're constantly running out of hot water maybe you need a bigger tank. If the temperature coming from your tank is highly variable then your thermostat or the heating element might be failing.

[Fuzz]

I've ceiling mounted my projector. I would not want it just in drywall. Yo definitely want to find a joist.


For the hot water issue, you can get a temperature balancing faucet for your shower/bath. Life changing. They aren't even ridiculously expensive. I'm not sure if you can just swap the internals, or if you need a whole new unit, though. You can also set a limiter on it, so it doesn't go to hot.

[Fuzz]

Oh, and the reason for the joist is if you just do drywall it would be hard to maintain it pointing properly. I'd imagine it wiggling around a bit.

[DoubleF]

OK, cool. So my suspicions on wanting to approach it similar to wall mounting is correct. Thanks!


The inline thing might definitely help for making sure I don't get a lukewarm or shallow bath if the dishwasher is turned on or something. It might also fix the issue of never using the Jacuzzi tub because there's only ever just enough hot water to fill one up and relax in it.

Temp regulating showers and thermostatic valves sound good too and I think if it was just 1 or 2, its almost a no brainer. But I have like 4 showers I'd need it in and as far as I can tell, it would be like $300-500 in the shower hardware per shower, plus paying for labour if I don't do it myself? At that price, it almost seems like it's close to being on par with doing something with the water lines?

[Fuzz]

My entire shower unit was $150ish(valve, tub spout, showerhead). Maybe check the manufacturer, and see if they offer it. It will only be the centre valve body that are easy enough to remove yourself.

[RichieRich]

Originally Posted by surferguy

Call Everlast. You can find his link in the CP Power Ring

Great guy to chat with. Pragmatic, offers information, solution oriented.
Much appreciated.

[Azure]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

Also, I have a question about water line upgrading. In my older home, if someone is showering and the tap or toilet is used, the classic temperature differentials occur. I heard it's possible to do plumbing work to mitigate/reduce the temperature differentials by putting in more water lines, but I don't know what it's called or how the work actually works. Does anyone know? And does anyone have a ball park idea how much it might cost to do?

I've also wondered if there's a solution that goes hand in hand or with the hot water tank instead. Because the tank is slightly older (10 years ish?) and I assume partially full of sediment, I have to set the temp slightly higher or I constantly run out of hot water. It means the water temp is set to a temp that is borderline capable of scalding, so I don't want my little ones to experience that when I shower them and someone else in the house uses water.

A circulation pump that monitors the temp on the water coming back to the hot water tank, and if it is too low, circulates more water throughout the house until the returning water is hot enough would do that.

There are videos you can watch on YouTube over how it works. Chances are it would require some new or additional water lines. It works really well though and saves thousands of gallons of water.

If you are running out of hot water all the time, it could mean the tank elements aren't heating like they should. Might be worth checking that out.

[Ducay]

Originally Posted by Azure

A circulation pump that monitors the temp on the water coming back to the hot water tank, and if it is too low, circulates more water throughout the house until the returning water is hot enough would do that.

There are videos you can watch on YouTube over how it works. Chances are it would require some new or additional water lines. It works really well though and saves thousands of gallons of water.

If you are running out of hot water all the time, it could mean the tank elements aren't heating like they should. Might be worth checking that out.

Not sure the circulation pump would be the issue (I'd suggest one if his problem was slow delivery of hot water, but if his hot water tank is already struggling, might make matters worse). As mentioned above, a Thermostatic (keeps one temp by varying) mixing valve, or a pressure balancing mixing valve (keeps hot/cold mix % the same) would both solve the issue of quick dips from other fixtures being used. Basically all shower/tub valves are pressure balancing at least these days. Thermostatic being the "fancier" option.

The other solution that OP was referencing around "adding more lines" is where you would run separate lines to each fixture off of a manifold. So instead of running one 1/2" line to the bathroom to serve a toilet/sink/shower, it would be served by 2 3. That means that you'd have less pressure drop at each fixture because each of the 3 fixtures has own 1/2" line (presumably fed by 3/4" fed manifold that could keep up). This is a super expensive option since you're running new lines everywhere.

But that whole issue is probably separate from the hot water tank issue, and sadly, not really sure 1 fixes the other. Personally, I'd service the water tank (at least drain and fill it to clear out some sediment) or replace it (no one wants scalded kids) with a bigger unit, and then install a new shower mixer valve that is thermostatic or pressure balancing.