I thought you usually don't caulk the bottom of tiles, as water is almost certainly going to get behind your grout, and you want to leave a path for it to escape? The bottom row of tiles should extend beyond a lip coming up from your base, so you don't need to worry that it's leaking necessarily.
Yeah, I didn't caulk the bottom of the tiles for that reason. I probably went overboard, but I used backerboard, then that orange waterproof barrier, then vertically applied thinset so the water can run down behind the tiles. Sealed grout isn't going to stop all the water, so you need it to be able to go somewhere.
So I just moved into my new to us house and there is a window in the bathroom and I would like to add some more caulking to it. What should I buy and is there certain way that It needs to be applied or can I just go and smear it with my finger?
Where are you adding caulking and for what purpose? Like somewhere where there isn't any? Or overtop existing? Usually want to remove existing caulking rather than going overtop it. Translucent is usually good as it lets some of the colours underneath it show through so doesn't look as bad if not done perfectly.
And it's hard to do well, or at least it's a skill I still haven't mastered yet, and cleanup is a PITA for silicone. I find I always need to consciously use less than I think.
__________________ Uncertainty is an uncomfortable position.
But certainty is an absurd one.
Has anyone ever had a tub re-glazed? Just wondering how much that kind of thing costs? Steel enamel I think.
I looked into it, but durability for the price you pay was a concern for me.
That said, my in-laws had an antique clawfoot done by some place where they had to bring it to them, not done in their house, and it's held up really well. About $1000 I think.
In this case it's a rental, but it's more so I can do some fixing up without having to get into having to redo framing and build a new vanity etc. Old tub and I was told that they don't come in that size anymore.
Though on second thought maybe I'll do some measuring to make sure that's actually the case, if I can get a tub that'll fit it'll probably be cheaper than re-glazing sounds like.
__________________ Uncertainty is an uncomfortable position.
But certainty is an absurd one.
I've never seen those, where can they be purchased? I don't see anything on Home Depot or Lowes.
EDIT: I mean I can get a tub for $350, and we're going to be pulling the tub out and putting it back anyway to get behind it, so given that if that $350 tub fits then that's probably going to be cheapest.
__________________ Uncertainty is an uncomfortable position.
But certainty is an absurd one.
I've never seen those, where can they be purchased? I don't see anything on Home Depot or Lowes.
EDIT: I mean I can get a tub for $350, and we're going to be pulling the tub out and putting it back anyway to get behind it, so given that if that $350 tub fits then that's probably going to be cheapest.
I tried mudding and taping for the first time this weekend. It was just the back wall of my laundry room, so I thought I'd chance it. I think it will look alright when it's done, but it's safe to say that's one trade I'm more than happy to sub out.
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And it's hard to do well, or at least it's a skill I still haven't mastered yet, and cleanup is a PITA for silicone. I find I always need to consciously use less than I think.
Not sure if you've heard of this one before but caulking is dead simple. Put painters tape on either side of what you are caulking leaving enough room on either side for the caulking to "Fan out". This way you can apply the caulking liberally (you don't actually want to do that but you can get away with it using this method) and once you have run your finger along it to smooth it out, immediately remove the tape. Voila! You have perfectly formed caulking lines.
Go to 1:30 of this vid.
Everfresh...to answer you question, there is caulking labeled specifically for windows and doors.
Last edited by GoinAllTheWay; 01-06-2015 at 10:24 AM.
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I tried mudding and taping for the first time this weekend. It was just the back wall of my laundry room, so I thought I'd chance it. I think it will look alright when it's done, but it's safe to say that's one trade I'm more than happy to sub out.
x100. I want to be good at this so badly but sadly, I'm not. I always go in with a plan on how I'm going to take it nice and easy and not panic.
Panic sets in immediately after starting and I wind up slapping up an entire bucket of mud and then sand 98% of it off. This is one part of my DIY game that really needs some professional help.
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Small areas - buy a bucket of pre mix.
Cover seams with mesh tape.
Round one: Put a small amount over areas in need, using a 6" blade, just enough to fill the mesh. Let dry (wait 24 hrs if you need too). The mud will shrink, causing divots over screw holes etc.
Round Two: Lightly scrape first with the 8" blade. this knocks off the high spots like knife edge lines and chunks. Now apply another round of mud using the same 8"blade, just enough to cover the previous areas making sure to feather out. This is the step that I take the most time to try and get things smooth and starting to look like final product. Experience plays a role with how to apply pressure and such but taking your time here makes the final step easier. Once complete let dry.
Round three: scrape again before using a 8" blade. Now use a 8" blade to apply a thin coat to cover small divots and ridges and then run over areas with a 12" blade to feather out accordingly. Should only take about an hour for this to dry. Once dry, sand until it feels smooth to the hand. Using the flashlight on your phone place it up against the wall and shine it sideways to produce a raking light. This will show areas that need more sanding.
Round four: Wipe the wall with a dry cloth , prime the areas and paint.
Round five: Drink beer.
Tips:
Clean your blades after each use.
scraping takes off the chunks that get stuck in the new mud and leave big drag tracks.
Don't prime until you are ready! Repeat round three if you need too!
buy the corner blade for inside corners
always remove excess when it is wet as to not leave giant ridges
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Last edited by surferguy; 01-06-2015 at 10:31 AM.
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^That's great advice. Until I try and use it. Somewhere between step 2&3 PANIC sets in, and the wall is now a mountain of mud. Somehow, still with low spots that will show after I've sanded it all off again. I suck at this so bad.
Trying to understand how people actually got plaster and lath walls smooth is on the same plane as a firm grasp of quantum physics.
Last edited by Bill Bumface; 01-06-2015 at 10:44 AM.
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taping and mudding is OK once you get the hang of it. My last few jobs were pretty good and are barely noticeable. It's a skill I like to have, and the job gets less messy the more you do it.
I've done a bunch of caulking too lately, and if any of you are going to do your bathtub etc, and you buy the shower ready in 30 minutes, mold free for 10 years one. Be aware it sets up very fast. You need to tool that quick and get the tape off for another couple of swipes very quickly.
