06-19-2022, 05:29 PM
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#1
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Acerbic Cyberbully
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: back in Chilliwack
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Plumbing Question: What is this, and can I fix it myself?
This thingamado is in the piping close to my hot water heater. The nut coming out the front is dripping slowly. Any ideas about what this is, and if I could replace it myself?
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06-19-2022, 05:40 PM
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#2
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First Line Centre
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Boxed-in
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It's your pressure regulator(/reducing) valve (PRV)... For reducing high line pressure to something lower for your household plumbing (the set range on mine is from 50-75 psi).
If you're handy and not worried about screwing it up, probably. But if you screw it up, you're without water and paying a plumber to show up since it's on the main inlet.
I replaced mine a couple of years ago. Not too hard, but I needed pipe dope to get the threaded connections sealed up again. Also, mine was leaking for 10+ years and never got worse... But I don't think it was doing its job that entire time.
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06-19-2022, 06:39 PM
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#3
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: east van
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Do you know where you're main shut off valve is? if so you shut off water to the house (and that pipe) you then take a wrench and unbolt the tap assembly from the valve (the nut sitting directly behind the silver information plate on the front) you then take it down to the best plumbing supply place in town, if that's home depot you're probably hooped, and ask them it they have either a replacement tap assembly or a whole valve you can cannibalise, if they do you take that home, wrap the threads in teflon/ptfe tape and reassemble, its not a tough job, just be careful not to wrench on it to hard and when you turn the water back on have a spotter to tell you its leaking if you havent taped it or wrenched it down enough
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06-19-2022, 08:08 PM
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#4
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: east van
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the other thing you can sometimes do is take the valve assembly apart and replace the internal washers and retape the screw threads and stop it leaking that way, saves you money as well (but not a lot)
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06-19-2022, 10:05 PM
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#5
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Hyperbole Chamber
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City of L.A.?
We’re on to you Textcritic.
Chilliwack lol
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06-20-2022, 06:18 AM
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#6
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: San Fernando Valley
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Is there a downstream pressure gauge that shows what the regulator is set to? Best to replace the entire assembly. If water is leaking out of the adjustment screw then it means the diaphragm is leaking. Probably best to replace the valve if that's the case as you could replace the diaphragm but it's a matter of parts availability.
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06-20-2022, 09:29 AM
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#7
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My face is a bum!
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Aren't these fixed for free by the utility provider?
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06-20-2022, 09:40 AM
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#8
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Franchise Player
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Bumface
Aren't these fixed for free by the utility provider?
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Depends on whose regulator it is. Downstream of meter is generally responsibility of the homeowner.
Probably doesnt hurt to call your utility to confirm.
Other than that - it should be a fairly easy replacement of the whole unit. Less than an hours time for a plumber + parts.
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06-20-2022, 09:40 AM
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#9
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Craig McTavish' Merkin
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I would totally #### that up.
You’re a scholar. Leave it to the pros.
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06-20-2022, 09:49 AM
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#10
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Powerplay Quarterback
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Sunnyvale nursing home
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Would you not need to have a pressure meter to measure and set the pressure after installation? This is something that could potentially have very expensive consequences if done wrong, like leaks elsewhere in the system due to high pressure, and resulting water damage, no?
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06-22-2022, 10:37 PM
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#11
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Scoring Winger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nancy
Would you not need to have a pressure meter to measure and set the pressure after installation? This is something that could potentially have very expensive consequences if done wrong, like leaks elsewhere in the system due to high pressure, and resulting water damage, no?
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Oh, don't be such a Nancy.
__________________
We are cheering for laundry
Dino7c
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06-22-2022, 11:51 PM
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#12
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: 555 Saddledome Rise SE
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Those look like unions on either side, so if there’s an upstream block valve you can close you should be able to remove and replace it for like $10. Just buy some thread sealant.
I think I’d probably start at AMRE for a replacement.
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