Cycling Thread

[TSXCman]

Originally Posted by Madman

New cycletrack working great already.

Haha, I think I see that guy downtown close Chinatown all the time.

Walking his garbage baby (stroller full of bags of junk).

[Northendzone]

for $3,000 you'll be able to get yourself a pretty nice rig - keep in mind you'll also want to ensure you have funds to get yourself some of the toerh stuff you may need - helemt, padded shorts, pumps, tube, patches, gloves maybe a camelback or a backpack to carry the stuff you are going to buy.

While I don't have a specific bike to recommend - here are some thoughts on different kinds of mtn bikes:

- the all mountain bike - this type of bike will have 5 to 6 inches of travel and can be used to pedal uphill (at say Bragg Creek) and cruise downhill (at some place like COP). this bike will have slighly slacker or possibly somewhat adjustable geometry than the XC rig. this type of bike will be heavier than the other two. this bike is flexible, which means it does nothering overly good or poorly (I have an AM rig - I like it, but as I get older I think I'd perfer an XC rig because it is easier to have a bike that is 6 lbs lighter than actually lose the weight myself)

- the XC rig - thses bikes typically have 4 inches of travel - typically used at Bragg Creek - you could take a bike like this to COP, but the reality is that a AM rig would be better. Thsi would be a mid-weight bike

- the Hardtail - for $3k you could get a pretty nicely speced HT and this type of bike would be the lightest; however, it would be the least amount of fun. you would not want a HT at COP. these days I'd categorize HT bikes for more hard core riders.

Go to one of the local bikes shops and have a look at thier product line up and take a few for a spin. All major manufacutres have a decent selection of mid-priced AM/XC rigs.

you could go the used route, but if you are not sure what you are looking at, then just be careful as you don't want to buy someone else's trouble.

Originally Posted by cral12

Thanks everyone for the input/advice.

I;ve done lots of biking/cycling but an admitted newbie to XC. I don't plan on doing anything crazy from the downhill perspective. Thus, would like have a bike that covers intermediate needs.

Although I like to invest in something that will last as my skill progresses.

Depends, of course, on new or used with respect to what I'm will to spend. I don't mind spending a little more if the deal and value is there.

I was thinking in the $2000-3000 range depending on what that gets me - of course would love to pay less (be easier to convince the little woman...hah) , but realize you do have to pay for quality.

If you want to read mroe about specific bike remmondations, checks out the fourms at Pinkbike.com or MTBR.com (more US centric)

Have fun shopping, and accept the fact you are getting a new addiciton.

Thanks

[cracher]

The lines between XC and AM are starting to blur a bit. There is a new breed of XC/trail bike that features low travel with AM geometry. I rode my friends RMTbMSL799 (the stupid $14000 bike with Di2 shifting) and it performed better than most XC bikes on climbs, and far surpassed on descend). Other less insane examples of this: (1) Commencal Meta Origin (2) Rocky TB MSL (pick a number lower than 799) (3) Yeti ASR-C (4) Transition Scout.

If you are looking to progress your riding on the mountain, I would suggest looking at something with the new geometry. I'm kind of at this spot right now, truly regretting spending so much on a steep HA XC bike. One of the issues with bikes (in my mind, anyways) is that the fork is so heavy so the bike is off balance (relative to rigid bikes of yesteryear). You have to actively fight nosedives when you're in the air. Having your slack front wheel further ahead is a major safety thing. Flat landings or severely cased landings = catastrophic OTB crash on steep bike. And, really, coming down is the fun part of XC/AM riding so why not facilitate it with better geo?

[Northendzone]

so last week i purchased a new race atlas stem and a new sixc 35 mm carbon handle bar for my rig (a RM altitdue 730) and finally got around to installing them last night, they sure look pretty.

had to laugh at myslef though, as i finished the install i took my bike for a test spin andthe handling was way off - after looking at everything for a couple of minutes, it dawned on me that my front fork had gotten spun aroun and was backwards.

Looking forward to my next ride down merlin.

[Chingyul]

Any suggestions for a bike shop to assemble a boxed bike bought online?

I know when I bought skis and bindings online, it wasn't great dealing with local shops since they wanted you to buy equipment from them. Ended up at Sports Rent. They don't sell, but service lots of equipment.

[Northendzone]

^ i like dealing with cyclepath on mcleod; however, i have enver asked them to assble a boxed bike.

have you taken a stab at doing it yourself? it is my understand that it is pretty easy to do if you have a few basic handl tools and are mechanically inclined

[kevman]

Originally Posted by cracher

In my regular riding group of 5 guys, we have a rule: first person to request a stop on a climb buys post-ride food and beers.

Wow your group sounds like no fun at all!

Originally Posted by cral12

Because this thread is huge, tough to dig thru even with search feature.
Yet another bike recommendation (Cross-country) request. Got some tips from a friend on features to strive for, but still not sure where to begin the search:
"Get a carbon frame, full suspension, xc bike with 4 inches of travel front and back, and minimum Shimano xt or Sram X9 components. In stores that will run you serious money; consider used."

Thoughts welcomed!

First question, ultimately where do you want to ride?

If your answer is within city limits or West Bragg Creek certainly go ahead and get the 4" travel bike. If your answer is anywhere else go bigger. We live near the Rocky Mountains and it turns out they're rocky. Go figure. Small travel bikes are cool when your trails are smooth but ours are not. One trip down Baldy or Prairie View on a 4" travel bike will make you question your life decisions. Riding a bike, even XC, is all about the down - may as well enjoy it right?

I'd also recommend a new bike. The geometry across most major manufactures has changed radically in the last few years. Short cockpits, long stems and steep head angles are an old school mentality. Even world cup XC bikes are getting slacker. A 2012 Giant Trance (pretty typical trail bike) had 120mm of travel and a 69.5° head angle. The 2015 model has 140mm of travel and a 67° head angle. That 2.5° is HUGE for someone starting out. This coupled with the shorter stems bikes are coming with gives instant confidence to even the most novice of riders going down.

You might be thinking you're going to sacrifice on the up but that's simply not true either. More travel makes for a smoother ride on the most technical of ups which not unsurprisingly makes climbing easier. Wider tires provide more traction which again makes it easier for a novice to get up the mountain. Unless of course every ride is a race. Then you might not want to be bogged down but for the average rider you'll have more fun on the climb when you're not spinning out and bouncing around. World cup XC riders overcome the bouncy ride by being out of the saddle for most of the climb. But since you will be sitting down may as well make it comfortable!

So with all that said at your price point I'd start off looking at something like a Giant Trance 2.
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-ca/...2/20507/80076/

Super solid spec at a very reasonable price point. Keep a few hundred bucks on the side to get a dropper post right away. Dropper posts are a game changer. Getting the seat out of your way on descents does amazing things for your confidence which will have you riding faster and safer.

For the record I'm on a new Trek Slash this year (160mm, 65°) and it has completely changed my mind on what a bike can do. Compared to my old Fuel (120mm, 68°) I haven't lost a step on the ups and am cleaning technical climbs that used to result in a foot down or two in the past. And when the fun part starts it's most definitely the right tool for the job.

Bigger travel bigger smiles!

[kevman]

Originally Posted by GGG

I just started last year picking up an alumninum hard tail xc 29er with deore/slx components and an entry level air fork for under $1000. My abilities limit me far more than the bike does and I suspect will for quite a while.

It's a chicken and egg situation. Recently experiencing all of this first hand while my girlfriend has been learning to mountain bike I can tell you that the bike goes a long way. The fear of going over the bars is obviously strong when you're learning and anything that can help you ride safer is only going to help your confidence and your ability to progress faster.

[cracher]

Originally Posted by Chingyul

Any suggestions for a bike shop to assemble a boxed bike bought online?

I know when I bought skis and bindings online, it wasn't great dealing with local shops since they wanted you to buy equipment from them. Ended up at Sports Rent. They don't sell, but service lots of equipment.

I would try to hit up one of the kids working at the Bow Cycle build shop (behind the grocery store in Bowness). Cash and beer would probably get your bike put together quickly. There will be a couple tricky things about assembly (grease on one bolt, loctite on another, assembly paste, the little 6nm torque wrench to put on rotors, press-fit BBs, etc) which can get annoying real quickly.

[Chingyul]

The video makes it look pretty easy, but from what I hear there's usually some alignment and tweaking to be done even on bike from the factory. I can put it together, but I'm not versed enough on bikes to know what to tweak and what to check.

[habernac]

Originally Posted by Chingyul

The video makes it look pretty easy, but from what I hear there's usually some alignment and tweaking to be done even on bike from the factory. I can put it together, but I'm not versed enough on bikes to know what to tweak and what to check.

Ricksbikes.com, free pick up and delivery. Rick does solid work.

[cracher]

Originally Posted by Chingyul

I'm not versed enough on bikes to know what to tweak and what to check.

Not sure you'd want to be on versed and tweak at the same time.

[bossy22]

Originally Posted by Chingyul

Any suggestions for a bike shop to assemble a boxed bike bought online?

I know when I bought skis and bindings online, it wasn't great dealing with local shops since they wanted you to buy equipment from them. Ended up at Sports Rent. They don't sell, but service lots of equipment.

When do you need it by?

[macker]

Originally Posted by kevman

Wow your group sounds like no fun at all!



First question, ultimately where do you want to ride?

If your answer is within city limits or West Bragg Creek certainly go ahead and get the 4" travel bike. If your answer is anywhere else go bigger. We live near the Rocky Mountains and it turns out they're rocky. Go figure. Small travel bikes are cool when your trails are smooth but ours are not. One trip down Baldy or Prairie View on a 4" travel bike will make you question your life decisions. Riding a bike, even XC, is all about the down - may as well enjoy it right?

I'd also recommend a new bike. The geometry across most major manufactures has changed radically in the last few years. Short cockpits, long stems and steep head angles are an old school mentality. Even world cup XC bikes are getting slacker. A 2012 Giant Trance (pretty typical trail bike) had 120mm of travel and a 69.5° head angle. The 2015 model has 140mm of travel and a 67° head angle. That 2.5° is HUGE for someone starting out. This coupled with the shorter stems bikes are coming with gives instant confidence to even the most novice of riders going down.

You might be thinking you're going to sacrifice on the up but that's simply not true either. More travel makes for a smoother ride on the most technical of ups which not unsurprisingly makes climbing easier. Wider tires provide more traction which again makes it easier for a novice to get up the mountain. Unless of course every ride is a race. Then you might not want to be bogged down but for the average rider you'll have more fun on the climb when you're not spinning out and bouncing around. World cup XC riders overcome the bouncy ride by being out of the saddle for most of the climb. But since you will be sitting down may as well make it comfortable!

So with all that said at your price point I'd start off looking at something like a Giant Trance 2.
http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-ca/...2/20507/80076/

Super solid spec at a very reasonable price point. Keep a few hundred bucks on the side to get a dropper post right away. Dropper posts are a game changer. Getting the seat out of your way on descents does amazing things for your confidence which will have you riding faster and safer.

For the record I'm on a new Trek Slash this year (160mm, 65°) and it has completely changed my mind on what a bike can do. Compared to my old Fuel (120mm, 68°) I haven't lost a step on the ups and am cleaning technical climbs that used to result in a foot down or two in the past. And when the fun part starts it's most definitely the right tool for the job.

Bigger travel bigger smiles!

Just my experience but I haven't had a problem with a 4 inch travel bike on anything in the local area including Prairie View, Prospector, Baldy, Razors Edge, Seeya, Toothless, Billy Dog, SHAFT etc. I guess part of it is I started on a hardtail at Moose Mountain and was forced to learn to ride without relying on travel. I would say if you are riding West Bragg Creek travel can actually slow you down and a solid hardtail or short travel bike is better suited for those trails. Anything over 5 inches of travel is overkill for 90% of the trails most people will spend 90% of their time on. I still pull out my hardtail from time to time but for me 4 inches of travel is a happy medium. Too much bouncing around will slow you down on the trails and will make climbing harder than it needs to be on the majority of the trails around here.

[slots881]

Hey Chingyul,

Thanks for the Sports Rent recommendation. I manage the shop there and we are actually a full service bike shop also. If you need your bike assembled feel free to give us a shout.

Originally Posted by Chingyul

Any suggestions for a bike shop to assemble a boxed bike bought online?

I know when I bought skis and bindings online, it wasn't great dealing with local shops since they wanted you to buy equipment from them. Ended up at Sports Rent. They don't sell, but service lots of equipment.

[cracher]

Originally Posted by macker

Just my experience but I haven't had a problem with a 4 inch travel bike on anything in the local area including Prairie View, Prospector, Baldy, Razors Edge, Seeya, Toothless, Billy Dog, SHAFT etc. I guess part of it is I started on a hardtail at Moose Mountain and was forced to learn to ride without relying on travel.

Baldy with a 4" bike? You're definitely a few skill levels above + iron thighs if you did that and had fun. I brought 4" (bike!) to baldy last season and baldy bent me over and gave me 12" back. Took the salsa spearfish (gen 1, with the flexy seat-stay design, long wheelbase bike) and couldn't make half the switchbacks going up. Almost put on the armor going up. Coming down, I hiked-a-bike through all the loose stuff (useless Maxxis Crossmarks didn't help) and heat-warped a rotor the rest of the way. I don't even know if I want to try that again with a 140mm ibis.

Slots - do you build wheels at that shop? Got the wife a new set of WTB KOM that I need to get laced up. Have the hope hub and the rim, don't have spokes or nipples.

[Fuzz]

Originally Posted by cracher

Baldy with a 4" bike? You're definitely a few skill levels above + iron thighs if you did that and had fun. I brought 4" (bike!) to baldy last season and baldy bent me over and gave me 12" back. Took the salsa spearfish (gen 1, with the flexy seat-stay design, long wheelbase bike) and couldn't make half the switchbacks going up. Almost put on the armor going up. Coming down, I hiked-a-bike through all the loose stuff (useless Maxxis Crossmarks didn't help) and heat-warped a rotor the rest of the way. I don't even know if I want to try that again with a 140mm ibis.

Slots - do you build wheels at that shop? Got the wife a new set of WTB KOM that I need to get laced up. Have the hope hub and the rim, don't have spokes or nipples.

Funny, Baldy was the trail that made me realize I wanted a full suspension bike, back in the early 2000's! An aluminum hardtail with Bomber Z2(I think 2.5" travel) beat the crap outa me! I rode years in Canmore with an XC bike with 3" front and rear. I don't think 4" is a necessity at all, just nice to have.

[Northendzone]

it is sure nice riding in the morning after it rained all day, the air was so nice this morning. even saw a deer on the trail.

[habernac]

I learned to mountain bike on a fully rigid Tech XTC back in the day. I remember how glorious it was getting 2 inches of Manitou elastomer front suspension. 4 inches on today's bikes is miles of suspension for the terrain we have here.

[cral12]

Thanks all for all your suggestions on my original "XC bike" inquiry. Lots of food for thought (if I'm not still slightly confused...haha - at least I know where to start).

I'd expect the majority of my riding will be in West Bragg Creek, but ya never know where I'll end up!