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Old 10-22-2020, 08:28 AM   #3141
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Something like this? I saw something like this installed in the bathroom in an Air BnB in Portland, but it had the temperature controls on the wall.

https://www.amazon.ca/Dimplex-2000-W...e-deals&sr=8-2
That's not half bad. Thanks for the suggestion. I prefer something invisible, but that's a good alternative for sure.

Your suggestion also led me to find another option, which is an inline duct heater. You basically cut out a section of duct, insert the heater and wire it to a thermostat.
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Old 10-22-2020, 09:30 AM   #3142
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What's a good A19 LED bulb that's rated for enclosed fixtures?
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Old 10-22-2020, 10:40 AM   #3143
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That's not half bad. Thanks for the suggestion. I prefer something invisible, but that's a good alternative for sure.

Your suggestion also led me to find another option, which is an inline duct heater. You basically cut out a section of duct, insert the heater and wire it to a thermostat.

Please put up the link. My daughters room stays far too cold in the winter. As her room is small a space heater may work however it would always be in the way plus they tend not to be too efficient. thx.
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Old 10-22-2020, 10:45 AM   #3144
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Please put up the link. My daughters room stays far too cold in the winter. As her room is small a space heater may work however it would always be in the way plus they tend not to be too efficient. thx.
Like this rascal right here:

https://www.globalindustrial.ca/p/hv...waAvhREALw_wcB
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Old 10-22-2020, 10:46 AM   #3145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sliver View Post
That's not half bad. Thanks for the suggestion. I prefer something invisible, but that's a good alternative for sure.

Your suggestion also led me to find another option, which is an inline duct heater. You basically cut out a section of duct, insert the heater and wire it to a thermostat.
Neat. So something like this?



EDIT:

Looks like this one

https://www.amazon.ca/TPI-HP61000120...384738&sr=8-16
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Old 10-22-2020, 10:49 AM   #3146
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As her room is small a space heater may work however it would always be in the way plus they tend not to be too efficient. thx.
They're 100% efficient.

They'd be better than that duct heater in that all of the heat from the heater gets into the room where the duct one some of the heat would go to heating the duct and the air around the duct before it gets to the room.

The duct one is nice because it's hard wired and a little safer, and the air is moving (though some space heaters have fans that would do the same thing).
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Old 10-22-2020, 11:18 PM   #3147
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My furnace has started making a loud humming noise while it's heating. When I turn on only the fan, it doesn't make the noise, so I think it's the inducer motor (also notice the inducer motor is warm to the touch after running). I can order the part off Amazon for about $300. How difficult would it be to replace on my own? Alternatively, how much should I expect to pay a furnace guy to come do it (labour only)?
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Old 10-22-2020, 11:36 PM   #3148
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My furnace has started making a loud humming noise while it's heating. When I turn on only the fan, it doesn't make the noise, so I think it's the inducer motor (also notice the inducer motor is warm to the touch after running). I can order the part off Amazon for about $300. How difficult would it be to replace on my own? Alternatively, how much should I expect to pay a furnace guy to come do it (labour only)?

How old is the furnace? Some parts / service might still be under warranty.
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Old 10-22-2020, 11:47 PM   #3149
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How old is the furnace? Some parts / service might still be under warranty.
The whole house was renovated in 2011, so it should be about 9 years old.

Edit:
Looked at the previous home inspection and it says it's from 2010.

Last edited by d00little; 10-22-2020 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 10-22-2020, 11:51 PM   #3150
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The whole house was renovated in 2011, so it should be about 9 years old.

That seems reasonably new for a furnace. I’d suspect the warranty would still be valid on that.
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Old 10-23-2020, 08:36 AM   #3151
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How old is the furnace? Some parts / service might still be under warranty.

I'm dealing with this exactly right now (see previous post a few days back). Inducer motor is dependent upon your furnace model. Look it up on the link below for cost idea.

You can also reach out to EVERLAST (aka The Furnace Guy) here on CP. He was very good to talk to. Their installed pricing for my unit came in a little less than one of the bigger home furnace companies here in Calgary, however I have a lot more faith in them doing the job correctly start to finish.
https://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts
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Old 10-23-2020, 07:03 PM   #3152
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So couple weeks ago I noticed the ceiling in my garage was leaking. After cutting into the dry walled ceiling and ripping out the insulation I found the problem. The crimp on the connector from the 1/2” to 3/4” hot water line must have not been fully crimped as it was dripping continuously.
Anyway I bought some of the spray foam insulation from HD and hoping to re-insulate it this weekend (weather pending) but wondering if anyone can recommend someone to replace/repair the hole I made in the drywall? It’s approximately a 3’x4’ section.

Here’s a picture, any recommendations is greatly appreciated!!
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Old 10-23-2020, 07:29 PM   #3153
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I'd just cut the edges square and screw in a small piece of drywall. I think you can get 4x4 sheets. You can buy a little bit of drywall mud and tape, and fix that pretty easily. It's not like the rest of it is a good job, you can't do any worse than what's there.
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Old 10-23-2020, 08:25 PM   #3154
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You can get 2’x2’ sheets even.

Add joiner blocks where you don’t have half a joist. Using drywall screws, hold a wood block behind the drywall perpendicular to the joist, half over the existing drywall and screw the drywall to it. Then you have another edge of the square to screw to. Some guys use scrap drywall as the joiner.
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Old 10-23-2020, 08:55 PM   #3155
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You can get 2’x2’ sheets even.

Add joiner blocks where you don’t have half a joist. Using drywall screws, hold a wood block behind the drywall perpendicular to the joist, half over the existing drywall and screw the drywall to it. Then you have another edge of the square to screw to. Some guys use scrap drywall as the joiner.
2x2 sheets costs almost as much as a 4x8 sheet.
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Old 10-23-2020, 09:18 PM   #3156
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I'd just cut the edges square and screw in a small piece of drywall. I think you can get 4x4 sheets. You can buy a little bit of drywall mud and tape, and fix that pretty easily. It's not like the rest of it is a good job, you can't do any worse than what's there.

Just out of curiosity what stands out that makes the rest look so bad? I don’t know much about mudding and tapping drywall so just looking for pointers. Also just as an FYI the one mudded/tapped seam section is where water was leaking from (leaked all across) so that may be why the tapping looks like it’s peeling off.
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Old 10-23-2020, 09:29 PM   #3157
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A good tape job will be perfectly smooth with the drywall, like this:




The screws are dimpled in, so the mud should be smooth over those. The tape shouldn't be visible at all. This was obviously a quick first coat, but even as a first coat it looks really rough. Nothing that can't be fixed, but you certainly wouldn't want to paint over it like that.

My point was more that even if you have never done it before, you could probably match the job that is already there, and it wouldn't look out of place. I didn't mean to crap on your garage. There are loads of youtube tutorials to get you through a quick job like that, if you felt like taking a stab at it.
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Old 10-23-2020, 09:39 PM   #3158
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A good tape job will be perfectly smooth with the drywall, like this:




The screws are dimpled in, so the mud should be smooth over those. The tape shouldn't be visible at all. This was obviously a quick first coat, but even as a first coat it looks really rough. Nothing that can't be fixed, but you certainly wouldn't want to paint over it like that.

My point was more that even if you have never done it before, you could probably match the job that is already there, and it wouldn't look out of place. I didn't mean to crap on your garage. There are loads of youtube tutorials to get you through a quick job like that, if you felt like taking a stab at it.

Haha no offence taken, like I mentioned I honestly don’t know much about mudding tapping and just assumed this was what “normal” looked like when we purchased. Appreciate the feedback and I’ll definitely hit up YouTube to tackle this myself.
Thanks again!
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Old 10-23-2020, 10:07 PM   #3159
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That kind of tape job can be normal for a garage. The only real technical purpose for taped joints in a garage is to create a fire-rated wall/ceiling and to provide an air barrier so exhaust can't get into other parts of the structure. Obviously it looks nicer if the tape is embedded with multiple coats on top, but it's not a big deal if it isn't.

But the advice above is great. Taping the inside corner might be a little tricky if you've never done it before, but it's not like it has to look amazing.
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Old 10-23-2020, 11:24 PM   #3160
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2x2 sheets costs almost as much as a 4x8 sheet.
Oh for sure, but you need to transport a 4x8 sheet if you buy a 4x8 sheet.
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