Car Audio Help

[3 Justin 3]

So I want to put a sub, amp, new speakers and a new deck into my car. The car is a Cobalt 06, stock everything (no sub).

First of all, what do I need to buy to completely overhaul the sound, do I need new wiring, etc. (I assume I don't) I assume, sub, amp, and with an amp I would need new speakers (the stock ones already sound bad when the volume is high).

What is everyone's suggestion on:
- What brand
- How big (10", 12", two 10's?)
- Where can I get cheap boxes (to fit the sub)
- Where should I go to buy this stuff

As well, does anyone have a link to that one website that sells those "deck kits/harness" since I'll need to take a large deck out for a small deck.

[DownhillGoat]

If you order you harness & din adapter from crutchfieldcanada.com they'll send you instructions on how to remove the current stereo which is pretty handy on some cars.
As far as pricing goes, the best prices I've seen are on sonicelectronix.com. They're out of the US, but they ship to Canada. I haven't ordered from there, but thier prices are great.

[Berger_4_]

Honestly, this stuff isn't that hard to do. Getting your deck out of the dashboard looks like it might be a bit of a bitch though.

My recommendations - Kicker amp and Alpine subs/speakers. That's what I rolled with back when I could fit the stuff in my car. The subs have a taken a beating (both have a crack in them from being thrown in the box of my truck a couple times) and are still pounding.

I had two 12" speakers, and honestly it was complete overkill. That being said, my truck (and now my buddy's Neon haha) was very, very loud.

If you're putting the sub in your trunk, you'll probably want at least one 12", or maybe two tens just for a lower profile box. Just make the boxes yourself. All you need is half a sheet of MDF, a skill/table saw, jigsaw, and a drill. Oh and a soldering gun if you want to make good connections...just say no to butt connectors!

You'll need wire from your battery to your amp, deck to your amp, amp to subs, and deck to ground. Ensure you get a heavy enough gauge to go from the battery to the amp, and then amp to subs.

I just bought my stuff locally, but there are certainly deals to be had through online stores and Kijiji.

[TopChed]

When I got my first setup a long time ago, I had no inclination to do the install myself. For that reason, I went to A&B Sound, which I had heard was much more reliable than some other places. I had a Clarion deck installed with JL speakers, and 2 10" JL subs. Really, I'm happy with everything I got.

However, if I were to do it again, I'd find a friend who was good with this stuff and try to get them to help me do at least some of it myself. The install is pretty expensive.

[Berger_4_]

Yeah that's what I did with my first setup as well.

That being said, I don't think it's that hard to do if you're good with hands on work. If you can solder and run a wrench, you can install speakers. This summer, we stripped the back seats out of the previously mentioned Neon and rewired everything ourselves (minus the speaker wire that was already installed in the doors). We put the deck in and everything. It's not mind boggling difficult, you just have to take your time.

[3 Justin 3]

So I am pretty much sure I will do it myself. With that said, how many speakers do I need to replace, the two in the door and then the two in the back (behind the back seats) so 4 in total? Should I get a 4 channel amp?

I am thinking something like:
Deck
Sub (2)
Amp
Speakers (2)?

Except not shopping at futureshop.

[DownhillGoat]

Depending on the size of speakers you're using and the deck you get you may not need a 4 channel amp. The last 2 I did I just had the amp running the sub and ran the speakers off the deck.

[REDVAN]

Note: I have an 04 Grand Am, and I think you have to get a special wiring harness (or something) to by-pass the crazy GM computer, which is the main reason I haven't got a new deck in my car yet.

So that is another hundred bucks to your set up/install costs... unless they removed that idiocy in the newer models.

[3 Justin 3]

REDVAN, I know what you're talking about, the thing costs $100 and I would need it (ughh).

When looking at speakers/amps/etc. my problem right now is understanding how everything connects to each other.

For example, the amp I am looking at has these specs:
Delivers continuous 75 watts x 4 at 4 ohms, 100 watts x 4 at 2 ohms, 200 watts x 2 bridged at 4 ohms.

So if I were to bridge two subwoofers in the back, they would have to be 2 ohms each, then the load is 4 ohms. There would still be 2 channels left, the front two speakers essentially. If I have this correct so far, would I need to bridge the two front speakers as well or could I go separate channels for the front 2 speakers, at 100W each at 2 ohms each speaker.

Would that be right?

[DownhillGoat]

You won't want to bridge your fronts. You double the power, but you're losing half your channels. So unless you want mono sound, bridging is only for subs.

[MickMcGeough]

Does the cobalt only have door speakers? No 6x9's or anything in the back? I ask because you do not want to leave stock speakers going anywhere, and two 10" subs is way overkill to be matched up to just two door speakers.

For anyone putting together their first DIY car audio system, I usually recommend a good high-powered deck, a good matched set of speakers to replace all the stock ones (get the same model doors as rears), and a mono amp to power a single sub. If you get a good deck you don't need to power your speakers with an amp.

I've got an entire Alpine Type-R setup, 6.5/1" component set, 6x9s, and 10" sub, and amp. I run the speakers off deck power and they sound outstanding. The sub provides far more bass than I even want, I've got it turned way down; it easily overpowers the rest of the system. A box for two 10" subs, no matter how low profile, is going to seriously cut into your trunk space and there's nothing that sucks more than having to take them out to carry stuff around.

[return to the red]

Originally Posted by 3 Justin 3

So I am pretty much sure I will do it myself. With that said, how many speakers do I need to replace, the two in the door and then the two in the back (behind the back seats) so 4 in total? Should I get a 4 channel amp?

I am thinking something like:
Deck
Sub (2)
Amp
Speakers (2)?

Except not shopping at futureshop.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/

I ordered my Alpine Deck from here and got it at nearly half the cost Visions wanted for it

I should mention as well that depending the features your car has in it you may be in for some unexpected costs on wiring harnesses. For example I have a 2008 Sierra with Bose system and my wiring harness alone cost an additional 150-200 dollars to keep the onstar and bose running smoothly. Add in the TR7 for another 35 and that's another additional cost if you want to be able to play DVD'S while driving (not the smartest idea but if you want to burn mp3's on DVD you will need to do this)

Also some installs are easier than others, pretty sure your Cobalt speakers will be just screwed in place but I have seen a few where the speakers were rivited in (Newer VW).

[3 Justin 3]

Originally Posted by MickMcGeough

Does the cobalt only have door speakers? No 6x9's or anything in the back? I ask because you do not want to leave stock speakers going anywhere, and two 10" subs is way overkill to be matched up to just two door speakers.

For anyone putting together their first DIY car audio system, I usually recommend a good high-powered deck, a good matched set of speakers to replace all the stock ones (get the same model doors as rears), and a mono amp to power a single sub. If you get a good deck you don't need to power your speakers with an amp.

I've got an entire Alpine Type-R setup, 6.5/1" component set, 6x9s, and 10" sub, and amp. I run the speakers off deck power and they sound outstanding. The sub provides far more bass than I even want, I've got it turned way down; it easily overpowers the rest of the system. A box for two 10" subs, no matter how low profile, is going to seriously cut into your trunk space and there's nothing that sucks more than having to take them out to carry stuff around.

Thanks for the info.

I figured 2 10"'s would be overkill. I am thinking to go 1 12", or find a really good 10".

The Cobalt has the 2 - 6 1/2" in the front and the rear has 2 - 6x9 speakers.

If I run the 4 speakers off the deck, what am I looking at for a deck?

As for the mono amp with the sub, how powerful you figure the amp should be (same for sub)?

[MickMcGeough]

Originally Posted by 3 Justin 3

Thanks for the info.

I figured 2 10"'s would be overkill. I am thinking to go 1 12", or find a really good 10".

The Cobalt has the 2 - 6 1/2" in the front and the rear has 2 - 6x9 speakers.

If I run the 4 speakers off the deck, what am I looking at for power, a 4x50 or higher?

As for the mono amp with the sub, how powerful you figure the amp should be (same for sub)?

Deck power: look at RMS or "continuous" power ratings (RMS is not really continuous, but don't worry about that). Most brands advertise "max" power (which is what the 4x50 you referred to is) and make claims up to 4x70. 4x20 or 4x22 RMS is good. I haven't been head unit shopping for awhile, it may go higher now.

Amp/Sub power: most important thing is to match them correctly. The sub will have an RMS power range rating, and you want your amp's RMS power output to fall inside that range. My amp is 220 watts RMS and my sub's range is 200-500 watts RMS. Ideally you want to be on the higher side of that range for your amp power but in my config it's plenty.

Quality components are far more important than power ratings. Read lots of pro reviews.