I was actually thinking of building a small "platform" to secure a lockable metal cover similar to what speede5 recommended. It would be a few inches high and slightly larger than the hole itself. Something kinda like a well cover type of design.
That way it's a cover that no kid(s) can kinda just flip over or open up with basic tools while still easily be opened without to much effort to look inside if needed. The metal mesh suggestion is a good one. I might consider that too so no one can accidentally drop a phone down there when flipping the cover open to check it or whatever.
Because it is on the concrete walk way, I guess I am also over thinking a scenario where someone is standing on top of that cover when it's covered in snow and it just gives out. With a raised cover, in theory, it is less likely someone is accidentally be standing on top of it.
What I would do is find an aluminum or galvanized steel plate, and screw it down to the good wood. Treated plywood not a bad option either.
Thanks for the suggestions so far. Here is a pic of the hole. Also, my memory was way off on the size of the hole.
Spoiler for size:
Spoiler!
The hole is 91 inches deep x 11" x 14" and is 10" from the side of the house.
The underground sprinkler cover idea would have been great had the hole not been situated smack dab in the middle of concrete. Are there any other hatch options that would work for this scenario but made of metal. That way it might work while still allowing the necessary ventilation and whatnot. I don't think I could screw it into the wood directly. That stuff is just as rotted as the plywood cover on it before.
I've temporarily taken a concrete stepping stone from my back yard and placed it where the rotting wood cover used to be. I wouldn't want a kid to step on that plywood and have it snap under their weight.
OMG, that's so deep. What a crazy hole.
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How hard is that? Have a few real rough patches on my floor and I want to to do something about it but don't want to drop 5k
It's not a 'hard' job persay, but it requires patience, planning, and a bit of common sense when using the sanders to prep the floor for stain/varnish.
The drum sander is easy to manouver but you need a steady rhythm to get a smooth finish. The edge sander takes a bit of practice so best to start in the closets with it.
Also depending how much area you have to do you have to get all the furniture out, and the dust gets everywhere. The last house i did, a 900Sq bungalow, 3 bedrooms with closets, living room, dining room and hallway, we moved everything into storage on thursday, I started friday after work and we were back in on monday. It was a long weekend but turned out fantastic. haha
Thanks for the suggestions so far. Here is a pic of the hole. Also, my memory was way off on the size of the hole.
Spoiler for size:
Spoiler!
The hole is 91 inches deep x 11" x 14" and is 10" from the side of the house.
The underground sprinkler cover idea would have been great had the hole not been situated smack dab in the middle of concrete. Are there any other hatch options that would work for this scenario but made of metal. That way it might work while still allowing the necessary ventilation and whatnot. I don't think I could screw it into the wood directly. That stuff is just as rotted as the plywood cover on it before.
I've temporarily taken a concrete stepping stone from my back yard and placed it where the rotting wood cover used to be. I wouldn't want a kid to step on that plywood and have it snap under their weight.
Super weird hole. Would it be drainage with wood on the side? I'm not sure that makes sense.
I wonder if you can create a wood cover with a smaller insert attached that drops into the hole a few feet? Easy enough to pull out for an adult, difficult for a child?
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The Delhi police have announced the formation of a crack team dedicated to nabbing the elusive 'Monkey Man' and offered a reward for his -- or its -- capture.
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Thanks for the suggestions so far. Here is a pic of the hole. Also, my memory was way off on the size of the hole.
Spoiler for size:
Spoiler!
The hole is 91 inches deep x 11" x 14" and is 10" from the side of the house.
The underground sprinkler cover idea would have been great had the hole not been situated smack dab in the middle of concrete. Are there any other hatch options that would work for this scenario but made of metal. That way it might work while still allowing the necessary ventilation and whatnot. I don't think I could screw it into the wood directly. That stuff is just as rotted as the plywood cover on it before.
I've temporarily taken a concrete stepping stone from my back yard and placed it where the rotting wood cover used to be. I wouldn't want a kid to step on that plywood and have it snap under their weight.
Looks like you should start a reality TV show featuring the excavation of this hole with many pre-commercial break fade always of people over reacting about what the viewer is about to realize is really not anything. Diversity of excavation techniques and episodes featuring the finding of old rotted wood are encouraged.
Interviews with random old guys that heard pass down stories and old sketches will also be required.
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Go Flames Go
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I have a smart lock on the front door of my house that needed batteries (4 AA) replaced. I replaced them but noticed within minutes the light was blinking red again indicating low battery. I took out the batteries case and on the bottom it was so hot it burnt my hand and the plastic was melting. This is likely a short in the wiring somewhere but I am glad I took out the batteries when I did before it got worse. The lock is about 7 years old and prior to this I've had no issues with it.
What should I do now? Contact Weiser and ask for a replacement and notify them of the safety issue, or contact local retailers like Home Depot who sell the lock to notify them of the safety issue (or both)?
Same type of batteries as before? I know some AA are different voltage. Whether it is enough to cause a problem, I don’t know.
Looks like you should start a reality TV show featuring the excavation of this hole with many pre-commercial break fade always of people over reacting about what the viewer is about to realize is really not anything. Diversity of excavation techniques and episodes featuring the finding of old rotted wood are encouraged.
Interviews with random old guys that heard pass down stories and old sketches will also be required.
“Could it be the lost manuscripts of William Shakespeare?”
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Looks like you should start a reality TV show featuring the excavation of this hole with many pre-commercial break fade always of people over reacting about what the viewer is about to realize is really not anything. Diversity of excavation techniques and episodes featuring the finding of old rotted wood are encouraged.
Interviews with random old guys that heard pass down stories and old sketches will also be required.
And maybe they will finally find the templars treasure several seasons later
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilboimcdavid
Eakins wasn't a bad coach, the team just had 2 bad years, they should've been more patient.
With a plug for the giant hole on the side burner for now while I wait to borrow some tools, I decided to quickly swap the dead Maytag FC10 garburator in my home. I nabbed an insinkerator and after a ton of confusion and chaos today, I think that whoever installed my granite sink used clear silicone to stick the sink flange to the sink rather than plumber putty. There's something clear underneath that feels like dried hot glue and can kinda rub off.
Is this a reasonable assumption? The flange is really stuck on and definitely doesn't pop out like all other DIY videos.
The Maytag flange is not compatible with the insinkerator flange.
How do I get this thing off? Should I try something like spraying WD40 from underneath till I'm high as a kite and the silicone is weak enough to rip off the old flange and install the new flange? I got a good deal on the garborator and prices have shot up lately, so I prefer this approach.
Or should I bail on the insinkerator and find a different garbage disposal that uses a 3 bolt mounting system because removing the flange is going to be Nigh impossible?
The waste water pipe is also going to need to be modified to connect it.
Should I DIY this whole thing or hire someone to do the PVC pipe related stuff?
PVC pipe stuff is easy. Use new cement and the correct kind for the plastic you are joining,, dry fit everything, follow directions, don’t force joints into place so have extra pipe for when you cut stuff too short
