The Home Improvement Thread

[speede5]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

With a plug for the giant hole on the side burner for now while I wait to borrow some tools, I decided to quickly swap the dead Maytag FC10 garburator in my home. I nabbed an insinkerator and after a ton of confusion and chaos today, I think that whoever installed my granite sink used clear silicone to stick the sink flange to the sink rather than plumber putty. There's something clear underneath that feels like dried hot glue and can kinda rub off.

Is this a reasonable assumption? The flange is really stuck on and definitely doesn't pop out like all other DIY videos.

The Maytag flange is not compatible with the insinkerator flange.

How do I get this thing off? Should I try something like spraying WD40 from underneath till I'm high as a kite and the silicone is weak enough to rip off the old flange and install the new flange? I got a good deal on the garborator and prices have shot up lately, so I prefer this approach.

Or should I bail on the insinkerator and find a different garbage disposal that uses a 3 bolt mounting system because removing the flange is going to be Nigh impossible?

The waste water pipe is also going to need to be modified to connect it.

Should I DIY this whole thing or hire someone to do the PVC pipe related stuff?

Sounds like they used plumbing adhesive. It's great stuff, I use it all the time instead of putty. No leaks but it is quite difficult to remove, it's basically silicon with adhesive so you have to cut and scrape the stuff off. There's so much variation between sink manufacturers it's just easier to use this and not have an issue.

[Nufy]

While we're on the plumbing train...

How would one go about repairing a crack in a plumbing vent line...above the tee ?

To remove and replace correctly would involve removing the cabinets possibly destroying them due to the age...

The crack is in an additional fitting above the tee connection and shouldn't see any water at all. Its been cracked for a while apparently but there is no water damage.

Should I channel my inner Red Green and use duct tape ?

[Fuzz]

If you have some access you could use some abs glue. Maybe open the crack up if you can and put a little in there and smeared outside. Should seal it up.

[sa226]

What kind of crack? In PVC.?

If it were me I wouldn't attempt to replace it. Its not like you're going to spring a leak. Makes me wonder how it cracked though.

Gorilla tape, Duct tape, aluminum tape. I'd probably do the aluminum tape.

If its PVC and the area is flat, you could almost patch it. Cut a piece of PVC like a big thick bandaid and glue it on the crack with PVC cement. That cement isn't just a glue it causes a chemical reaction and melts the PVC together. So it would be a pretty good repair.

Disclaimer:I'm a complete amateur. But I wouldn't be destroying my cabinets to replace a vent line with a small crack without trying other things first.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

[Nufy]

I'll try and get a picture...Stand by...

Its as busted as busted can be...

Here we are...

[speede5]

I would suggest a wrap repair if you have decent access, on top of what the previous two posters suggested which are good ideas.

I've never needed to use something like this but there are a variety of similar products on the market and I am pretty sure they would do the job nicely.

https://www.fernco.ca/plumbing/pow-r-repair/pow-r-wrap

When I was into RC, i fixed an cracked abs body by using some fabric and ABS cement as my resin and it worked like a charm.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by speede5

Sounds like they used plumbing adhesive. It's great stuff, I use it all the time instead of putty. No leaks but it is quite difficult to remove, it's basically silicon with adhesive so you have to cut and scrape the stuff off. There's so much variation between sink manufacturers it's just easier to use this and not have an issue.

So it sounds like I'll have to spray something underneath and slowly loosen and scrape away at it? Would stuff like WD40 or Goo gone work? Or is there something else I should try?

I found a thing of Kwik seal. Does this sound like what is being used on the flange here? Is this good stuff to use to secure the new flange afterwards? or should I get something else?

Originally Posted by sa226

What kind of crack? In PVC.?

If it were me I wouldn't attempt to replace it. Its not like you're going to spring a leak. Makes me wonder how it cracked though.

Gorilla tape, Duct tape, aluminum tape. I'd probably do the aluminum tape.

If its PVC and the area is flat, you could almost patch it. Cut a piece of PVC like a big thick bandaid and glue it on the crack with PVC cement. That cement isn't just a glue it causes a chemical reaction and melts the PVC together. So it would be a pretty good repair.

Disclaimer:I'm a complete amateur. But I wouldn't be destroying my cabinets to replace a vent line with a small crack without trying other things first.

Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

Pure spit balling, Sugru might be fun to try out.
Note: Above advice not recommended.

[Maritime Q-Scout]

Throwing this out there for the sake of ideas/expertise/whatever else.

I have a shed outside next to the driveway. It's nothing overly fancy but does the trick. 8 feet by 8 feet.

I'm planning on keeping our new BBQ in it (when I buy it) but want a small deck to be able to wheel it out, wheel it back, as well to put anything I may need to move when taking out tires, or whatever.

I have 4 wood pallets that almost line up perfectly.

I guess the question is, has anyone built a small deck out of wood pallets? Any suggestions/recommendations?

I was thinking of using 2 as a base, screw them into the bottom 2x4 of the shed, have them on patio blocks, then use the boards from the other two pallets to make them 'deck like'.

Is this the best way to go about it? I'm no expert by any means (but I'm fairly good at making due). But I would be open to input.

[Sliver]

A pallet deck? Yikes man. That'll give off a very depressing vibe.

[I-Hate-Hulse]

Don't most BBQ's come on wheels regardless? What are we missing here that you need something to wheel it out on?

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by Maritime Q-Scout

Throwing this out there for the sake of ideas/expertise/whatever else.

I have a shed outside next to the driveway. It's nothing overly fancy but does the trick. 8 feet by 8 feet.

I'm planning on keeping our new BBQ in it (when I buy it) but want a small deck to be able to wheel it out, wheel it back, as well to put anything I may need to move when taking out tires, or whatever.

I have 4 wood pallets that almost line up perfectly.

I guess the question is, has anyone built a small deck out of wood pallets? Any suggestions/recommendations?

I was thinking of using 2 as a base, screw them into the bottom 2x4 of the shed, have them on patio blocks, then use the boards from the other two pallets to make them 'deck like'.

Is this the best way to go about it? I'm no expert by any means (but I'm fairly good at making due). But I would be open to input.

Something like this?

https://www.instructables.com/id/Woo...Backyard-Deck/

But it would need more than 4 pallets and you want to add more wood around it to make it a bit more reasonable. I guess it would work as a temporary platform of sorts, but perhaps it would not be the best longer term solution.

[speede5]

Originally Posted by DoubleF

So it sounds like I'll have to spray something underneath and slowly loosen and scrape away at it? Would stuff like WD40 or Goo gone work? Or is there something else I should try?

I found a thing of Kwik seal. Does this sound like what is being used on the flange here? Is this good stuff to use to secure the new flange afterwards? or should I get something else?



Pure spit balling, Sugru might be fun to try out.
Note: Above advice not recommended.

This stuff? I use it, haven't had to remove it, I don't know what would loosen it up. I think you're stuck with cutting, scrapping etc. When you say flange are you talking about the bottom part of the drain assembly (under the sink)? yes you can use it on there.

[DoubleF]

Originally Posted by speede5

This stuff? I use it, haven't had to remove it, I don't know what would loosen it up. I think you're stuck with cutting, scrapping etc. When you say flange are you talking about the bottom part of the drain assembly (under the sink)? yes you can use it on there.

Yes. That's the stuff. If it needs to be cut and scraped, I'm going to have a hell of a time getting at the stuff between the granite sink and the flange. There's not much space below the sink to loosen and scrape.

The metal piece around the hole that's inside the sink and connects to the pieces below is what I need to un-stick and then replace + re-stick. Part in link below.

https://insinkerator.emerson.com/en-...kerator-flange

[speede5]

These are quite thin and rigid, I use them for tons of stuff and it might be something you could use to split the flange away from the sink, carefully of course but you can tap it with a hammer and it wont bend.

Once you get the bottom off you should be able to work on the top.

i'm assuming you don't have a granite sink but one of those composite looks like stine sinks, so use caution, I don't know how fragile they are, as long as you are working a flat edge scraper into the seam you should be ok.

[Deviaant]

Nm
Wrong thread

[Nufy]

Originally Posted by speede5

I would suggest a wrap repair if you have decent access, on top of what the previous two posters suggested which are good ideas.

I've never needed to use something like this but there are a variety of similar products on the market and I am pretty sure they would do the job nicely.

https://www.fernco.ca/plumbing/pow-r-repair/pow-r-wrap

When I was into RC, i fixed an cracked abs body by using some fabric and ABS cement as my resin and it worked like a charm.

Thanks for the link. I'll keep it in mind.

I was able to get some yellow ABS cement around the crack as shown in the pic and seal it together. If it opens up again I will look at the product you linked.

The crack is on the air side of the drain so it shouldn't see any water.

I don't know how long the crack has been there and there wasn't any water damage.

[speede5]

I missed that pic, looks like its broken clean off, probably had tension on it and during a cold spell shrunk and cracked. lots of couplings there so not much you can do without replacing a lot of pipe. The vent side being cracked will let sewer gas into the house, you might catch a whiff every once in a while when you run water through the drain.

Another thing you could do is cut the pipe just on the other side of the top coupling, and put a Fernco in there. This would make a good seal and leave flexibility for expansion/contraction.

[Bonded]

Any one replace a few pieces of siding before? Internet makes it seem like it should be easy.

[speede5]

Originally Posted by Bonded

Any one replace a few pieces of siding before? Internet makes it seem like it should be easy.

Vinyl? very easy, you need a special tool to seperate from the piece above, nail in the new piece and clip it back togther.

[Flames_Gimp]

Originally Posted by Nufy

While we're on the plumbing train...

How would one go about repairing a crack in a plumbing vent line...above the tee ?

To remove and replace correctly would involve removing the cabinets possibly destroying them due to the age...

The crack is in an additional fitting above the tee connection and shouldn't see any water at all. Its been cracked for a while apparently but there is no water damage.

Should I channel my inner Red Green and use duct tape ?

I would use foil tape if you want to tape it, waterproof and very good adhesion.
or you Could silicone it. If there's space to cut you stick a screw on rubber coupler, it can even fit over top of the raised female ends.