The Following User Says Thank You to speede5 For This Useful Post:
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12-05-2021, 07:07 PM
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#4382
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hell
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ohhh of course you always try and put joints on windows and limit the amount of but joints, i did know that but I didn't catch it, we last boarded in 2017 i've forgot some things , thanks for pointing it out.
I'm probably going to do drywall returns around the skylights, i didn't want this guy messing that part up.
Well joints 2 inches from the end at least corner tape should cover it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by speede5
What are you doing for returns on the skylights?
I only say to resheet because of the volume of joints and locations. Why you would put seams two inches from the edge is beyond me. Of those sheets had been main vertically you would have one nice joint every 4 feet, either between each light or half way through them. You’d never see them after. With End sheet butt joints everywhere your mudder will have a hard time hiding them all. Not saying it can’t be done but there’s easier ways and with time a jigsaw puzzle like that will probably show through. Too many people try to save a couple sheets of drywall by patching all the scraps together when a couple extra sheets would cut the joints in half.
As for gaps those aren’t terrible to manage, even the top joint you’re worried about. There are quick set compounds and full compound that dry much harder than the finishing mud you get in a bucket. I’ve even used quickset concrete mix to fill gaps before taping.
With texture it’s probably gonna be fine, I just wold have done it different. But I’m still learning after 4 complete Home Reno’s. I’m not a tradesman.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Flames_Gimp For This Useful Post:
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12-05-2021, 08:45 PM
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#4383
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First Line Centre
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I still can't get over how bad it looks in that photo, Gimp. I'm horrendous at finish work, but even I could have done a far better job. I'm with speede5, I'd re-sheet the whole thing running the sheets vertical instead of horizontal. It'll reduce the number/length of joints, making mudding and taping much much easier.
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12-05-2021, 08:54 PM
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#4384
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Somewhere down the crazy river.
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Kind of on the topic of skylights, how normal is it to feel kind of chilly underneath them? I know cold air sinks, but I didn’t think it would be an issue or is this typical of older skylights? It doesn’t open.
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12-05-2021, 09:00 PM
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#4385
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First Line Centre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wormius
Kind of on the topic of skylights, how normal is it to feel kind of chilly underneath them? I know cold air sinks, but I didn’t think it would be an issue or is this typical of older skylights? It doesn’t open.
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Even a triple pane window is only about an R5 so the air is rising to the window, cooling and dropping, I wouldn't think it would be too noticeable though. I had a couple in a bedroom about 7 ft from the floor and never noticed anything though a couple SK winters.
Sure there's not a draft getting through them? They don't have much to seal between the window frame and the structure. if the seal is old and compressed a good breeze could get up under them. Not much blocking wind on a roof.
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The Following User Says Thank You to speede5 For This Useful Post:
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12-05-2021, 09:03 PM
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#4386
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First Line Centre
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flames_Gimp
ohhh of course you always try and put joints on windows and limit the amount of but joints, i did know that but I didn't catch it, we last boarded in 2017 i've forgot some things , thanks for pointing it out.
I'm probably going to do drywall returns around the skylights, i didn't want this guy messing that part up.
Well joints 2 inches from the end at least corner tape should cover it.
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With patience you can mud anything to look good. haha
I still use the metal corner bead occasionally but the rounded ones with paper on them are great to work with and leave a nice finished corner. would be a nice way to do the returns.
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12-06-2021, 10:25 AM
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#4387
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wins 10 internets
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: slightly to the left
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What's the best furnace filters out there? I see 3M ones everywhere but was told by the guy that cleaned our furnace last year that they restrict the air flow too much and cause the furnace motor to wear out faster. Any brand out there that cut down on dust/allergens without causing extra stress on the furnace?
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12-06-2021, 11:01 AM
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#4388
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Franchise Player
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hemi-Cuda
What's the best furnace filters out there? I see 3M ones everywhere but was told by the guy that cleaned our furnace last year that they restrict the air flow too much and cause the furnace motor to wear out faster. Any brand out there that cut down on dust/allergens without causing extra stress on the furnace?
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I get the 3 pack duststop from Canadian Tire, just your basic filter.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by calgaryblood
Looks like you'll need one long before I will. May I suggest deflection king?
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The Following User Says Thank You to Hockeyguy15 For This Useful Post:
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12-06-2021, 03:19 PM
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#4389
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First Line Centre
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With SK dust and pet hair my filters get clogged so fast I go with the cheaper ones too.
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12-06-2021, 07:52 PM
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#4390
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speede5
With patience you can mud anything to look good. haha
I still use the metal corner bead occasionally but the rounded ones with paper on them are great to work with and leave a nice finished corner. would be a nice way to do the returns.
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I'd like to try the bullnose corner sometime, we used the metal lined paper covered corners in the rest of my house.
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12-06-2021, 08:34 PM
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#4391
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First Line Centre
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Theres a plastic transition for the corners, both inner and outer, they make it light work
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The Following User Says Thank You to speede5 For This Useful Post:
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12-11-2021, 05:26 PM
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#4392
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Hell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speede5
Theres a plastic transition for the corners, both inner and outer, they make it light work
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Are you interested in doing some mudding work dude? i'm not in a rush at all, even if someone could pic at it on weekends over the spring.
I decided to remove the center strip completely as there's a Glulam beam there, and cap it with a faux beam. I think that will look nice! I'd leave the glulam exposed but we had to put LVL on both sides of it
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12-11-2021, 07:54 PM
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#4393
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First Line Centre
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Unfortunately I am in Moose Jaw. Sorry
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12-11-2021, 11:20 PM
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#4394
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Hyperbole Chamber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speede5
Unfortunately I am in Moose Jaw. Sorry
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It’s only 6hr 15mins. I bet you could be there by 9am no problem.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to topfiverecords For This Useful Post:
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12-12-2021, 12:19 AM
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#4395
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Franchise Player
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockeyguy15
I get the 3 pack duststop from Canadian Tire, just your basic filter.
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this, and change them often
your furnace is designed to take air in...restricting it is so dumb. I laugh at these filters that are basically a piece of cardboard with a couple pin holes
__________________
GFG
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12-12-2021, 11:08 PM
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#4396
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Van City - Main St.
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I picked up a used aluminum fence gate to install beside my house.
What's the easiest way for me to drill/bolt it down into the concrete?
Do I need high powered concrete drill or are there some sort of spikes that would hammer into pavers?
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12-13-2021, 06:59 AM
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#4397
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First Line Centre
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Sherwood Park, AB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winsor_Pilates
I picked up a used aluminum fence gate to install beside my house.
What's the easiest way for me to drill/bolt it down into the concrete?
Do I need high powered concrete drill or are there some sort of spikes that would hammer into pavers?
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I would rent a hilti drill myself, then you can get the hammer in anchors and bolt the gate down. You can do the epoxy anchors as well, but the hammer in wedges are instant and all weather over the epoxy ones.
Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk
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The Following User Says Thank You to indes For This Useful Post:
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12-13-2021, 07:20 AM
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#4398
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Franchise Player
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I question the talk of doing it into pavers. Is this the big 24x24 paver? Gates have a lot of leverage on them, a smaller paver is just going to get pivoted out fo the ground. You also don't want to drill to close the the edges, or they'll just blow apart. The other option is to pull the paver and dig a 3 foot hole for a standard end post, and concrete it in.
Can you mount the gate to the house, instead? I mounted my gate latch post to the house, but my method would probably work for the gate side as well.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Fuzz For This Useful Post:
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12-13-2021, 11:11 AM
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#4399
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Franchise Player
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Van City - Main St.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fuzz
I question the talk of doing it into pavers. Is this the big 24x24 paver? Gates have a lot of leverage on them, a smaller paver is just going to get pivoted out fo the ground. You also don't want to drill to close the the edges, or they'll just blow apart. The other option is to pull the paver and dig a 3 foot hole for a standard end post, and concrete it in.
Can you mount the gate to the house, instead? I mounted my gate latch post to the house, but my method would probably work for the gate side as well.
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The pavers are large, more like a sidewalk/path built down the whole side of my house.
I can potentially mount the end posts to the house and wood fence on the other side as well, but the posts have anchor holes in the feet already so seemed more straight forward to go into the ground.
This is just a 4' X 4' gate, so it's pretty light. Just need it to keep my dog in a certain portion of the yard and not running down the side of the house.
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12-13-2021, 11:15 AM
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#4400
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Franchise Player
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Winsor_Pilates
The pavers are large, more like a sidewalk/path built down the whole side of my house.
I can potentially mount the end posts to the house and wood fence on the other side as well, but the posts have anchor holes in the feet already so seemed more straight forward to go into the ground.
This is just a 4' X 4' gate, so it's pretty light. Just need it to keep my dog in a certain portion of the yard and not running down the side of the house.
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Ya, you can always give it a try. The pavers are about 2" thick. I'd stay as far from the edge as possible. I have been using a hammer drill to drill them, blow the dust out of the holes(very important!) then use tapcons to screw it down. I suspect the expanding bolt type would be more likely to fracture the paver. Get the largest tapcon that fits through the mounting holes, some come with the correct size drill bit. You may even make it work with a regular drill, since those pavers aren't as hard and you are only doing 4. Just what I would try, someone else might have a better idea.
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