The drip flashing was replaced last year. The window configuration is a bit complicated (it's a large, multi-window bay window), so I suspect it is the casing that separates a couple windows that is the issue.
Any recommendations for a repair company who can diagnose and fix the issue?
Somewhat. There are essentially 3 layers of windows arranged vertically above each other.
I did a water test where I pointed a sprinkler at the middle of the bottom window layer, then at the middle of the middle window layer, then at the middle of the top window layer. I left the sprinkler going for at least 10 minute at each height. When I hit the top window, we started seeing leaks after about 5 minutes.
At the top height, there might have been some splashing of water onto the soffit and roof, but the vast majority of water was at the window.
Also, we only notice leaks when we get a heavy rain with lots of wind into the house.
We have a water leak in one of our bay windows. It appears to be coming from the flashing around the windows, or maybe the casing. We'd rather not replace the windows outright - does anyone know of a place that will do window repairs? Or is replacement my only option?
SIS is a pretty reliable company. I have used them before. If your window is leaking though, probably thru the seam in the interior jam? running into your home. my guess is, from experience, its leaking before it gets to the drip flashing and is running behind the window flashing. depending on age of your home, the common application for "flashing" a window was a BS quick jam the window against the tar paper, run a band of red tucktape over it and carry on with the next one. Guaranteed to fail. In this example, and I know nothing about your specific instal, the window needs to come out, homewrap or tar paper reinstalled and lapped properly, window back in, then drip flash. The drip flashing is a last layer of protection, not the first.
I have a 114 year old brick chimney, and the mortar looks a bit rough. Any recommendations for someone to re-point it or whatever they do? Tried to reach out to a couple places, but never heard back.
I have a 114 year old brick chimney, and the mortar looks a bit rough. Any recommendations for someone to re-point it or whatever they do? Tried to reach out to a couple places, but never heard back.
We had Dalton at Blue Rock Masonry come out to look at ours. He was friendly, responsive and knowledgeable. We haven't done the work yet but won't hesitate to use him when we pull the trigger.
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Somewhat. There are essentially 3 layers of windows arranged vertically above each other.
I did a water test where I pointed a sprinkler at the middle of the bottom window layer, then at the middle of the middle window layer, then at the middle of the top window layer. I left the sprinkler going for at least 10 minute at each height. When I hit the top window, we started seeing leaks after about 5 minutes.
At the top height, there might have been some splashing of water onto the soffit and roof, but the vast majority of water was at the window.
Also, we only notice leaks when we get a heavy rain with lots of wind into the house.
Repair was probably done wrong. Modern way is to have a fairly large piece of metal as the drip edge and then a special adhesive waterproof sheathing go on top.
Ask me how I know lol.
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This may be genius or crazy but we wanted to get hot water to our outside taps for pool etc in the backyard. No one likes 4 degree water s . In our basement the tub/shower backs onto the utility room so I cut in a tee from the shower head line, and plumbed it over to the garden tap line. with a few ball valves to isolate which direciton i want.
IT IS GREAT!
you change the valves, then turn on the bath faucet. Select the temperature you want then pull up the stem to send water to the shower head. head outside and open the garden hose and enjoy the warm water !
WE CAN ACTUALLY ENJOY KIDS POOLS, SPLASH PADS AND SLIP AND SLIDES without having to go in every few minutes to dry off and warm up
This may be genius or crazy but we wanted to get hot water to our outside taps for pool etc in the backyard. No one likes 4 degree water s . In our basement the tub/shower backs onto the utility room so I cut in a tee from the shower head line, and plumbed it over to the garden tap line. with a few ball valves to isolate which direciton i want.
IT IS GREAT!
you change the valves, then turn on the bath faucet. Select the temperature you want then pull up the stem to send water to the shower head. head outside and open the garden hose and enjoy the warm water !
WE CAN ACTUALLY ENJOY KIDS POOLS, SPLASH PADS AND SLIP AND SLIDES without having to go in every few minutes to dry off and warm up
Ha ha, my brother in law did this when they built their house up in Parkland County. Added a hot water line as an outside tap. Says they have gotten tremendous use out of it and it was a very cheap adder.
I have an exterior entry door with the neat horizontal glass slats. I was just spraying it down with some water cause it was so dusty and noticed some water leak through to the other side. It was some trim around each of the glass slats. Can these be easily removed to fix the area where water is leaking through? I have no idea what is holding them place.
I have an exterior entry door with the neat horizontal glass slats. I was just spraying it down with some water cause it was so dusty and noticed some water leak through to the other side. It was some trim around each of the glass slats. Can these be easily removed to fix the area where water is leaking through? I have no idea what is holding them place.
It’s similar to this:
Sorry I can't help you with your problem but I really like the door. Where did you get it from?
On the inside look for little plugs on the trim, there should be screws underneath that go through to the front frame. Remove the screws and pop the window out and replace the sealing strips. I have done the larger inserts and the adhesive on the seals is really strong so it's hard not to do a bit of damage to the door finish when you're removing it.
If the only time it leaks is when you are spraying directly on it I would probably leave it. If it leaks everytime it rains that's another story.
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On the inside look for little plugs on the trim, there should be screws underneath that go through to the front frame. Remove the screws and pop the window out and replace the sealing strips. I have done the larger inserts and the adhesive on the seals is really strong so it's hard not to do a bit of damage to the door finish when you're removing it.
If the only time it leaks is when you are spraying directly on it I would probably leave it. If it leaks everytime it rains that's another story.
I think I’ll have to get Lux to look at it then, as I don’t want damage anything.
It leaked through during that last rainstorm too, though that was quite the downfall. Not a *huge* amount, but enough to drip on the floor.
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Anyone have experience with residential window tinting? Wondering a ball park price and if it’s worth it.
Don't pay someone to do it for you. It's ridiculously expensive. I think I paid like $1200 for like 8 windows for a conference room. Then I did all the outside windows myself (18-20 floor to ceiling) for like $300 about 5 years ago. The biggest cost was throwing away the first 2-3 film failures (crinkled and tear) and then soon after that, I started getting it down.
Pay like $300-400 for a Gila roll, a few more bucks for a spray bottle, baby shampoo, squeegee, plastic putty knife, tape and utility blades... you might be able to do your entire home by yourself.
I've mentioned it before that I want to replace the deck boards at my house with composite at some point because of the low maintenance aspect. But I'm starting to think that maybe I should just tear out the whole deck and instead just pour a concrete patio. It is a ground level deck and I would just have to build a single step up to our rear patio door. Does anyone know what a patio pour would cost for a 24*20 area so that I could compare it to the cost of composite?
I've mentioned it before that I want to replace the deck boards at my house with composite at some point because of the low maintenance aspect. But I'm starting to think that maybe I should just tear out the whole deck and instead just pour a concrete patio. It is a ground level deck and I would just have to build a single step up to our rear patio door. Does anyone know what a patio pour would cost for a 24*20 area so that I could compare it to the cost of composite?
Last year it was $15ish per sq. ft., so $7-8k. There's some variables in there (broom finish vs. stamped). Concrete prices were going crazy at the time, no idea what has happened since.
I've mentioned it before that I want to replace the deck boards at my house with composite at some point because of the low maintenance aspect. But I'm starting to think that maybe I should just tear out the whole deck and instead just pour a concrete patio. It is a ground level deck and I would just have to build a single step up to our rear patio door. Does anyone know what a patio pour would cost for a 24*20 area so that I could compare it to the cost of composite?
I switched my deck to composite a couple years ago. Major improvement! But, I did have to add extra joists to make it 12” on center due to the extra weight and support needed for composite.
Just my opinion but I think it looks nicer than concrete.
